Designing a watch. It sounds so easy, yet it is so difficult to design a watch just right, down to the last detail.

It is mainly a matter of balance, using the right proportions, and paying close attention to how the different elements of the watch play off on each other, finishing strongly with flawless execution.

It is painstaking work, but great design pays off. A watch that gets all the details right is one that seems to have a halo around it once you see and handle it. It stands out because it is perfect, or at least as close to perfect as something made by humans can be.

Strong words, yet I feel that they apply to the 2020 Classique Dame Reference 9065, which Breguet recently launched in time to celebrate the season of love. But rest assured it is right for any time period, romantic or otherwise.

Granted, if you are looking for a three-hander with a date, it is hard to go wrong with any timepiece from Breguet’s Classique collection. But that doesn’t automatically mean that every single reference from this collection is necessarily a homerun, depending on your individual taste, especially when certain signature features – such as the guilloche dial – are missing.

We are for the most part creatures of habit and we enjoy the comfort of familiarity. So when you replace an iconic element of Breguet’s “DNA” like guilloche, you had better be sure that you have something very special to replace it.

The difference a dial can make

For the Classique Dame Reference 9065, Breguet opted for a dial made from Tahitian mother-of-pearl. This particular material formed by the black-lip oyster (Pinctada margaritifera) is considered an organic gem.

Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065 on the wrist

The black-lip oyster is cultivated around the French Polynesian islands, to which the island of Tahiti also belongs. One might say that the soul of this tropical paradise is captured in a striking way in the particular color of this mother-of-pearl, which is distinctly darker than most, giving it the appearance of deep ocean waters.

Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065

Tahitian mother-of-pearl shows a stunning play of light, where lighter tones of blue, but also red, come to life. The dial is so mesmerizing that one easily loses him- or herself looking at it.

Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065

It is easy to say that the dial is the star of this watch, but it wouldn’t be able to shine so brightly on center stage if it weren’t for some other crucial details in the wings.

While the case and hands are crafted in pink gold, Breguet opted to print the numerals and minute markers in silver tone on the dial. This is one of the details that makes a difference, as this way they don’t overpower the exotic material of the dial.

Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065 (left) and Reference 9068

While the guilloche dials by Breguet feature Roman numerals, the examples on this watch are Arabic. A wise choice as these numerals ensure the watch retains a playful demeanor. Plus all these choices go very well with the date window, which also features Breguet’s traditional Arabic numerals.

When it comes to watches like this, I have always had mixed feelings about the date function. While practical, the date window often negatively affects the beauty of the dial. With mother-of-pearl dials, the risk increases tenfold. Yet Breguet has very cleverly managed to avoid any of the pitfalls.

The asymmetrically formed date window here features a pink gold frame and a burgundy background. This is a flash of brilliance, as it now matches not only the red tones in the mother-of-pearl but also the ruby set into the watch’s crown and the red satin strap.

Ruby cabochon crown of the Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065

The central second hand has a miniscule heart attached to it, which also adds a playful touch of red without making the watch too gimmicky. This is also a clear indication of how thin the line one has to walk to create the perfect watch is. Even a small thing such as a modified design of the heart could have easily spoiled the overall look of the watch.

Freeze frame

Breguet frames these stunning dials with a bezel set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, also using the gemstone to embellish the lugs. This creates a vibrant look in combination with the pink gold case.

The diameter of the Classique Dame Reference 9065 is 33.5 mm, which is pleasantly contemporary without being overly large (which would ensure it loses its elegance). The height also plays a vital role in terms of elegance: with a thickness of 7.55 millimeters, I feel that it contributes significantly to striking the right note on the wrist.

View through the display back to automatic Caliber 591A of the Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065

Caliber 591A forms the heart of the watch: the automatic movement leaves little to be desired with its beautifully crafted oscillating weight winding the watch to its full 38-hour power reserve.

Both the balance spring and the escapement are made from silicon because while Breguet may be a classic brand, it is also fond of innovating.

Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065

For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/house-breguet/news/breguet-unveils-limited-edition-classique-model.

Quick Facts Breguet Classique Dame Reference 9065
Case: 33.5 x 7.55 mm, pink gold, bezel and lugs set with 88 diamonds (0.606 ct) and one ruby on the crown
Dial: Tahitian mother-of-pearl
Movement: automatic Caliber 591A, power reserve 38 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Strap: iridescent red satin with pink gold pin buckle
Limitation: 28 pieces, Breguet boutiques only
Price: $28,600 / 27,900 Swiss francs

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