by Martin Green
Watch bracelets are often underrated (though not by GaryG): like housekeeping in a good hotel, they are commonly taken for granted.
Collectors usually focus on the shape of the case and look of the dial first, with the movement coming in a close second. But rarely does the bracelet attract as much attention as it deserves. In published reviews the bracelet might get a couple of lines, but that’s about it.
Developing and making a bracelet is, however, quite challenging. It has to look good, be comfortable, and withstand the forces and motions of a wrist in action. Even in the most boring day-to-day situations, you would be surprised how much stress a watch bracelet (or strap) is subjected to. Making a great bracelet is a tough job.
A couple of years back while visiting the Piaget manufacture I encountered an artisan working with nothing more than four metal pins, gold wire, a pair of pliers, and a blowtorch. That’s all she needed to make the most stunning, supple chain bracelet.
To me, that woman exemplifies the unsung heroes of the watch industry, working their magic behind the scenes.
Most bracelets might seem to have a slightly more industrial approach. Yet while their manufacture does involve huge CNC machines, there is also quite a bit of craftsmanship involved.
While in the past the lion’s share of brands purchased in the bracelets for their watches, some manufacturers have vertically integrated the process. Modern-day bracelets require many parts and a surprising amount of manual labor to assemble. While big CNC machines might make the components, every link in a luxury watch’s bracelet is finished and assembled by hand.
Breguet Marine
That a bracelet can do a lot to change the appearance of a watch is proven beyond doubt by Breguet’s latest introductions: full gold bracelets for the Marine collection.
Breguet Marine Ref. 5517 in white gold with blue dial
In all honesty, I have never been a fan of wearing a rubber strap with a precious metal case. I might be in the minority here, but for me a leather strap with precious metal is the go-to option, even if, or perhaps because, a strap gives the watch a more formal appearance.
White gold bracelet of the Breguet Marine Ref. 5517
But the Marine’s new gold bracelet feels is just right. The three-link design might be a classic choice, but it simply works well. The clasp is very nice and well-integrated in the overall design, and I particularly like the way it attaches to the lugs in a nearly seamless execution.
It comes as no surprise that these new gold bracelets follow the same design as the titanium bracelet of 2019, and I think it looks even better in gold.
In comparison to the titanium bracelet, the gold adds considerable heft but it’s likely to find a lot of fans.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale Ref. 5547 in pink gold with pink gold bracelet
It could be argued that a gold bracelet is contradictory to the Marine’s sporty nature, but it’s still a Breguet. And many of that brand’s clients probably consider opting for a Bentley convertible over a coupe or vacationing on a sailing yacht (with full crew) instead of a motor yacht sporty choices.
For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/new-models-marine/5517.
Quick Facts Breguet Marine Reference 5517
Case: 40 mm, white or pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 777A, 55-hour power reserve; lever escapement with silicon pallet fork and balance spring, frequency 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $47,800 on pink or white gold on bracelet
Quick Facts Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale Reference 5547
Case: 40 mm, white or pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 519F/1, 45-hour power reserve; lever escapement with silicon pallet fork and balance spring, frequency 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, second time zone, alarm, alarm power-reserve indicator, and alarm on/off indicator
Price: €58,800 on pink or white gold on bracelet
Bulgari Octo Finissimo
I always thought that it was a brilliant of Bulgari to launch the Octo Finissimo on both a strap and a bracelet because bracelets are a rarity on ultra-thin watches: as the watch is very thin its bracelet needs to be as well, which makes it very challenging to make.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium
Whoever designed and developed the bracelet for the Octo Finissimo should be knighted in my opinion. The bracelet both matches the design of the watch and follows the curves of the wrist perfectly. The Octo Finissimo on a bracelet is one of the most comfortable watches money can buy.
Bulgari also gets credit for making the bracelet in a few different materials, each coming with challenges of their own. I quite like the titanium version as it is feather-light and heats up to body temperature quickly so you forget that you are wearing it.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Ceramic on the wrist
The ceramic version has pretty much the same effect. While it has an almost fragile feel, it is very sturdy and offers slightly more of an industrial look than the titanium.
Earlier in 2020, Bulgari introduced the Octo Finissimo in stainless steel. After getting used to the more exotic materials, I wondered how this “standard” material would feel as it brought more weight to the plate.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in steel on the wrist
As it is a bit heavier, you can (just) feel the Octo Finissimo on your wrist, which is a pleasant presence. It might also expand the market for the Octo Finissimo as there are quite a few people who enjoy feeling that they are wearing a watch rather than it being too light to notice.
For more information, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/by-collection/octo.
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Case: 40 x 5.25 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: ultra-slim automatic Caliber BVL 138, 2.23 mm height, 36.6 mm diameter, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $13,900 on a bracelet, $12,800 on a strap
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Case: 40 x 5.5 mm, ceramic
Movement: ultra-slim automatic Caliber BVL 138, 2.23 mm height, 36.6 mm diameter, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $13,900
Hublot Big Bang Integral
Hublot has never been a brand to do much with bracelets, preferring its rubber straps of course. But don’t make the mistake of thinking that it couldn’t be good at it – because the opposite is true.
Some may still remember the Colonial bracelet from the time when Hublot founder Carlo Crocco was still CEO. Although I don’t think that the design would commercially work in today’s market, I still consider it one of the best and most imaginative bracelets of its time.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Integral
Fast forward to today and Hublot introduces its very first integrated bracelet for the Big Bang. In all honesty, this was quite a daring move for Hublot, but also one that is also very well timed. If the brand had done this 15 years ago at the launch of the Big Bang, I doubt the watch would have become the success story it is today.
A comparison would have been made with other legendary watches with an integrated bracelet for all the right or wrong reasons. Besides, rubber straps are an essential part of Hublot’s “DNA.”
When I tried on the Big Bang Integral in early 2020, it instantly became one of my favorite Hublot models.
The reason for this is that it is so well done that the watch looks like it has been available with an integrated bracelet for years. While this configuration is new, it doesn’t look like it, and that is one of the biggest compliments.
The way that the links are crafted gives the watch an industrial look, yet closer examination reveals how much time and effort Hublot invested in creating it. All the angles give the watch a solid look, yet one with a lot of depth.
A pair of diamond-set Hublot Big Bang Unico Integrals
The bracelet doesn’t feel as solid as it looks and the titanium version has a lightness on the wrist approaching that of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo.
With the Big Bang Integral in King Gold you are treated to a heavier presence on the wrist, but those investing in a full gold watch might want and expect to feel it’s there.
For more please visit www.hublot.com/en-us/watches/big-bang/big-bang-integral.
Quick Facts Hublot Big Bang Integral
Case: 42 x 13.45 mm, black ceramic, titanium, or King Gold
Movement: automatic Caliber HUB1280, 6.75 x 30 mm, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date; chronograph
Price: titanium $20,900, black ceramic $23,100, King Gold $52,500
Breitling Chronomat
Among Breitling enthusiasts, the so-called Rouleaux bracelet enjoys a cult-like following. It was launched on the occasion of Breitling’s 100th anniversary in 1984 when the brand introduced the Chronomat. Powered by a Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph caliber, it became one of the watches fueling the renaissance of mechanical watches.
The brand-new Breitling Chronomat in steel
The bracelet played an important role in the success of the Chronomat, and current CEO Georges Kern made a clever move in bringing it back.
Breitling didn’t make a replica of the old style, but completely redesigned it. We can see this especially at the edges, which now have a clean cut and are not cone-shaped like the original, giving the bracelet a modern appearance.
Crown, pushers, and Rouleaux bracelet of the two-tone Breitling Chronomat
The individual links are also thicker, providing a more robust appearance. This goes very well with the overall redesign of the Chronomat.
What stayed the same is the wearing comfort, which is one of the reasons why many Breitling enthusiasts get so excited about the original version. The clever design of the Rouleaux bracelet also allows Breitling to make a steel and gold version with the gold links harmoniously integrated.
Breitling Chronomat in two tone
Some may disagree, but as the Chronomat is an icon of the 1980s, I always feel that steel/gold is a good way to go for that nostalgic look. The solid-looking links of the bracelet closely follow the curves of the wrist.
Again, this is not an easy bracelet to make as each link has a few different finishes, often on very small surfaces. And this is one aspect where a great bracelet sets itself apart from a good one: crafting such finishes takes up a lot of time – from both man and machine – exemplifying one of the ways that a good bracelet offers significant added value.
For more please visit www.breitling.com/de-en/watches/chronomat.
Quick Facts Breitling Chronomat
Case: 42 x 15.1 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber B01, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Price: $8,100 in steel on Rouleaux bracelet; $9,350 with pink gold rider tabs; $12,100 with a gold bezel
You may also enjoy:
Heavy Metal: Great (And Not So Great) Watch Bracelets
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel
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Hublot’s Integral bracelet is great. I think you got it right when you mentioned ‘a lot of depth’ – it manages to flesh out the angles without making it look too thick on the wrist.
It’s not necessarily something that will be easily identifiable on its own, like a Royal Oak or Overseas bracelet, but it’s definitely one of the best attempts within that category of watches in recent years. The design team deserve a big pat on the back.
Thank you for your comment, Gav. I couldn’t agree more.