Cartier has done it again: the brand has once again released the unexpected.

About half a year ago, dreaming away in my ongoing fantasies about Cartier’s watch collection I realized that 2018 would be the fortieth anniversary of the Santos.

I did expect to see a new version of the model at the 2018 SIHH; after all, the Santos belongs to one of the most important watch lines in Cartier’s history.

But what I did not expect in my wildest dreams was the launch of something high end like a skeletonized caliber in combination with Cartier’s first steel watch, the Santos de Cartier launched in 1978 (and revised and renamed Santos Galbée in 1987).

Santos de Cartier Skeleton 2018 (photo courtesy George Cramer)

In this article I compare the new Santos de Cartier Skeleton to the Santos-Dumont Squelette from 2010, since these two models are from the same family, have a lot in common, and share the same high-end caliber.

Santos de Cartier with a manual-wind movement

For the first time since its introduction, this is a Santos de Cartier version supplied with a manual-wind movement instead of an automatic or quartz caliber like all other versions have had. For a daily winder to be successful, it’s absolutely crucial that the movement can be wound smoothly and easily. So the first thing I did was grab the crown to wind it when I had a chance to try on the watch.

And I must say that Cartier mastered that extremely well: the crown is big to provide a good grip, making it very comfortable to wind – even for larger hands.

Contrary to conventional skeletonized calibers, one of the most significant points of this movement for me is that Caliber 9611MC was conceived and made as a skeleton movement from the beginning using the large numerals as bridges instead of sawing and filing at an existing caliber until it is as transparent as possible.

Cartier Caliber 9611MC through the dial of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton

This new way of designing a movement gave the designers the possibility to convert the plate into numerals, which functions as a sort of a see-through dial. And that’s what makes this type of skeleton so much more admirable than conventionally skeletonized movements: what we see when we look at/through this caliber is the absolute minimum; there are no parts without a function.

Cartier Caliber 9611MC through the display back of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton

Cartier has used this caliber since 2008, when it was presented with the Santos 100 XL. With its power reserve of 72 hours, it proved to be very reliable in various models over the ten years that it has now been in use.

When we put a previous Santos model and this new version near each other, it becomes obvious that the case and bracelet have been completely re-designed.

As far as looks go, the new shape of the bezel is the biggest change as it favors the synergy between the lines of the case and the strap. Cartier says these sleeker lines accentuate the stylistic dynamic of the watch.

To me, it was not necessary to change the bezel, but especially if a strap is attached, the bezel now follows the lines to the strap. The other change – and it is a huge improvement – is the new bracelet outfitted with the patent-pending Cartier QuickSwitch system, which now allows it to be exchanged for a leather strap within a few seconds thanks to an invisible mechanism that blends into the structure of the case.

The mechanism simply needs to be pressed to release the bracelet from the case.

Also, taking out or adding links to make the bracelet fit as comfortably as possible is a matter of seconds, and no tools are required.

Comparing the 2018 Santos de Cartier Skeleton and the 2010 Santos-Dumont Squelette

While the two models we’re discussing here have a lot in common, but still are fairly different, it is logical to compare the two.

Aside from the huge price difference between these two Santos models (see below for pricing), both watches have that same typical Santos look and both share the “Fine Watchmaking” 9611MC skeletonized movement.

Cartier Santos Dumont Squelette from 2010 on the wrist (photo courtesy George Cramer)

The Santos-Dumont Squelette is more exclusive, harder to get, and more precious of the two.

For more mature men who prefer to wear good suits or sport jackets, this is the choice.

Santos de Cartier Skeleton 2018 (photo courtesy George Cramer)

The 2018 Santos de Cartier Skeleton is a more casual wearer; combined with jeans and a sweater, it looks as good as with more formal wear, but it always has a more sporty or, perhaps, younger appearance due to the famous bezel with screws.

When the bracelet is changed for a leather strap, the watch becomes dressier but still not as elegant as the Santos-Dumont Squelette.

The 2018 Santos de Cartier’s bracelet quick-change mechanism

The Santos de Cartier Skeleton will be delivered on this steel bracelet, but it comes with a calfskin or alligator skin strap as well a range of different colors to choose from.

The 2018 Santos de Cartier’s integrated bezel and lugs

The well-known deployant buckle adjustable on two sides is also included. This is quite a complete package!

What the Santos de Cartier Skeleton has over the Santos-Dumont Squelette

• A sturdy, no-nonsense case
• Case size:8 x 47.5 x 9.08 mm
• Sporty wrist presence
• Easy daily wearer because of the steel case
• Quick strap-release system
• Bracelet and leather strap with folding buckle included

What the Santos-Dumont Squelette has over the Santos de Cartier Skeleton

• A smooth, historically inspired case in a precious metal
• Case size: 7 x 47.4 x 9.4 mm
• Chic and dressy wrist presence
• Exclusivity

Cartier released what nobody expected it would, offering its stunning high-end 9611MC skeleton caliber in its most iconic steel model, the Santos. And for a relatively affordable price!

2018 Santos de Cartier Skeleton

This is not a limited edition piece, but do not expect to find the Santos de Cartier Skeleton at every boutique or Cartier point of sale like the other models of the Santos collection. This type of movement cannot and will not be produced in significant numbers.

If I was asked to make the difficult decision to choose between the two, I would forget about the slick looks of the Dumont and go for the new steel Santos.

The freedom to wear the watch on a leather strap in winter and on the bracelet in summer, or even to just switch them for a night out, is for me too good to be true!

Quick Facts Santos de Cartier Skeleton
Case: 39.8 x 47.5 x 9.08 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber 9611 MC, 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: $26,800 (stainless steel), $63,500 (pink gold)

Quick Facts Cartier Santos-Dumont Squelette
Case: 38.7 x 47.4 x 9.4 mm, white gold, pink gold, or titanium
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber 9611 MC, 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €52,000 (white gold), €48,200 (pink gold), €46,200 (titanium)

You might also enjoy Santos de Cartier 2018: One Of The World’s First Men’s Wristwatches Reinvented.

For more information, please visit www.cartier.com/en-us/collections/watches/mens-watches/santos-de-cartier/santos-de-cartier/whsa0007-santos-de-cartier-skeleton-watch and www.cartier.fr/fr/collections/watches/all-watches/santos-de-cartier/santos-dumont/w2020033-santos-dumont-skeleton-watch.