by Martin Green
Patek Philippe’s 89-year-old Calatrava collection needs no introduction, but here goes anyway.
The Calatrava launched in 1932 with Reference 96. It was the first Patek Philippe model to receive a reference number, and the first watch released by Jean and Henri Stern upon acquiring the brand earlier same year. The Calatrava quickly became the quintessential dress watch.
Over the following decades the collection expanded, each new model meticulously curated: as Patek Philippe itself has said, the Calatrava collection always needed to be “the most beautiful manifestations of timeless elegance.”
And don’t mistakenly interpret “timeless” to mean “old-fashioned.” Calatravas are created to defy dating.
That doesn’t mean that the design of the watches in this collection is “stuck”; the new Reference 6119 highlights the fact that the Calatrava can successfully both change and remain true to its roots.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119R in pink gold
Patek Philippe Calatrava: tour de force design
Designing a new Calatrava may be one of the most difficult tasks a watch designer can be given. As a benchmark model, anything less than perfect is unacceptable. Yet determining what is perfect is nearly impossible.
Dial detail of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Reference 6119G
On one hand, decades of pedigree must be met, while on the other the design team must use some form of crystal ball. Too much like its predecessors and there will be a disconnect with the current market, which demands something fresh. Too progressive, and the brand is ruled out of touch with its traditional clientele. Especially in an era in when the vast majority of attention is focused on stainless steel sports watches, a brand needs to get changes just right to attract some limelight while not turning off loyal fans.
Patek Philippe did just that with two strokes of Calatrava brilliance. Three if you count the movement.
Crown, lugs, and case band of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 6119R in pink gold
The first is going for a bezel with the traditional clous de Paris decoration, a subtle yet distinct pattern of small pyramid shapes made by a traditional guillocheur using a hand-guided tool. Not only does this add a layer of distinctive refinement, but it also follows precedent as the clous de Paris décor (also called hobnail) has an extensive history within the Calatrava collection, including gracing a version of the first Reference 96.
The second stroke of brilliance is found in the bold dial design – bold, but not overly so. Bolder hands and hour markers are kept in check by a more subtle railroad track marking the minutes.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 6119G in white gold
The subdial for seconds at 6 o’clock is classic, but giving it a sector-style layout keeps it from looking old fashioned. The result is a dress watch with broad appeal.
It is interesting to note that Patek Philippe opted for a 21 mm lug width. This is quite substantial given that the case diameter is a very wearable 39 mm.
From a design point of view, this is an essential part of Reference 6119. Most 39 mm watches would have an 18 mm lug width because with anything larger the brand runs the risk of making the watch look smaller than it actually is.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119R in pink gold
Patek Philippe achieved the opposite, and that’s thanks to the shape of the lugs, which have been kept elegant and rather slim with clear curvature toward the straps. Visually, this plays a small trick with the mind, making the watch look larger. This is what is so cool about dress watches: fractions of a millimeter can make or break the design.
The heart of the matter: the movement
The aesthetic appeal of dress watches is their subtleness and refinement. This is part of the attraction, but that’s usually not enough for a long and lasting love affair. A good dress watch is like an old-fashioned Gran Turismo, a beautifully styled car that combines a comfortable and luxurious cabin with generous performance.
So for a dress watch, what’s under the hood matters. This is not news to Patek Philippe: this brand wrote the manual on movements many decades ago. Patek Philippe knew that to position Reference 6119 properly, the movement is as important as the exterior design.
Caliber 30-255 PS movement of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119
With the new Caliber 30-255 PS, Patek Philippe launches a thin movement only 2.55 mm in height with a substantial diameter more fitting (no pun intended) for Reference 6119. The 31 mm size gives Patek Philippe enough room to equip it with two parallel mainspring barrels offering a generous power reserve of 65 hours.
The movement leaves very little to be desired, running at a 4 Hz frequency and featuring a Gyromax balance fitted with a Spiromax balance spring, hacking seconds, and compliant with the Patek Philippe Seal.
In terms of movement architecture, Patek Philippe made it look just as forceful as the front of Reference 6119. The large bridges holding the spring barrels make it look potent, while the gear train occupying the top part of the movement adds a dash of elegance.
With a 31 mm movement inside a 39 mm case, Patek Philippe only needed to fill 4 mm around its circumference with a movement holder ring. This is quite a slender rim without becoming too slim and has the added advantage that the movement itself appears larger.
The most important achievement of Reference 6119 is that each element is balanced, not only by itself but also in connection with the others.
Dial detail of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R
The big question: white gold or pink gold?
This leaves one final question for buyers: white or pink gold? This is quite challenging to answer: the white gold Reference 6119 combines a charcoal-colored dial with a vertical-brushed satin finish and a black leather strap.
Depending on light conditions, the dial can change from nearly black to light grey. The white gold/grey dial configuration can look both formal and casual.
Which one for you? Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 in pink gold and white gold
One would expect a similar dial finish on the pink gold version, but there Patek Philippe opted for a grained finish in silver. It is an important detail as it provides a more contemporary touch to the watch, but is also a more fitting finish in relation to the rich look of the pink gold, which it accentuates, but at the same time prevents it from becoming overpowering. The pink gold version is a more classic proposition, and a brown strap is the obvious and (for me) correct choice.
Which one to choose is a matter of personal taste: Patek Philippe gave these two models distinctly different characters. Well-heeled clients might pick both.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R in pink gold
For more information, please visit www.patek.com/en/company/news/calatrava-clous-de-paris-refs-6119r-6119g.
Quick Facts Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119
Case: 39 x 8.43 mm, white (6119G-001) or pink gold (6119R-001), 30 m water resistance
Movement: manually wound Caliber 30-255 PS with 65-hour power reserve, 2.55 in height, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, Gyromax balance with Spiromax balance spring, Patek Philippe Seal
Functions: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds
Price: $29,570
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My Top 5 Patek Philippe Timepieces Since 2005: A Very Subjective List
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30m water resistance, what joke. It’s not about the ability to take it swimming, but rather about enough protection against dust and humidity entering the case. And infecting the dial and movement.
Yes, the very definition of a dress watch.
30m is quite sufficient for when you get pushed into the pool after dinner in full black tie and tuxedo, as most swimming pools are only 2-3m deep. Perhaps that’s why they say you shouldn’t wear a watch with ‘black tie’ anyway.
Hi Colin ,
Water resistance ratings are often misunderstood , 30m does not mean its safe in 2 metres of water . You may find this article informative . Regards . https://www.shiels.com.au/blog/understanding-water-resistance-in-watches
Both versions are the epitome of classic dress watches. The photo’s of each version are superlative.
Martin, why did you refer to the 6119R as ‘pink gold’ throughout the article since the ‘R’ in 6119R references ‘Rose Gold’ by Patek Philippe on their own website?
Thank you for this thoughtful question, Mike. The standard term we use across the Quill & Pad platform is pink gold. “Pink” and “rose” are synonyms in terms of gold colors, though “rose” is more of a direct translation from French. Patek Philippe’s reference numbers reflect the company’s French-language culture.
Hi Mike,
In French they use the term “rose” gold for both what we call pink gold and red gold. Unless specified “rose gold 4N” (pink) or “rose gold 5N” (red), the term rose gold by itself is vague. For precision we use the more precise English terms so that our readers are aware if the case is pink or red gold. I suspect most brands using the term “rose gold” in English texts either do so thinking that it sounds better in their marketing blurb, or out of ignorance.
Regards, Ian
Well, I learned something new. Thanks Ian.
Thank you Elizabeth and Ian for your replies. Yes, upon further observation, there is a significant difference between the PP 6119R (pink gold) versus the Swatch Group (Omega/Blancpain) Sedna Gold (red gold), even though both watch mfgs use the term ‘rose gold’ for each variation. Again, thank you for the edification on the terminology.
Hi Mike,
All 18K gold (as most gold cases todaz are) is 75% gold. It’s the makeup of the other 25% that gives different colors. The yellow, pink, and red comes from different amounts of copper.
Yellow gold (3N) has 12.5% copper
Pink gold (4N) has 16% copper
Red gold (5N) has 20.5% copper
Regards, Ian
Seeing this elegant new model is encouraging me to update my 3520D with a new strap for ‘her’ fiftieth birthday in July.
I have always had an unpadded strap with a feathered edge on the 3520 to comply with its thinness.
As I see a padded/stitched strap on the new 6119..
Thoughts on a padded strap….thanks
One word… perfection.
Great point about the difficulty balancing the past with looking forward, something that’s been achieved with aplomb here.
What is the origin of the name Calatrava, Martin, and can it be used for watches by other manufacturers?
As a 5196R owner I’d love to have the new movement and display caseback, but I’m ambivalent about the hobnail bezel and the railroad minutes track and sector style sub-seconds detract from the classic simplicity and beauty of the dial. So I’m happy they’re still developing the classic Calatrava style, but I won’t be going for this one.
Martin, thanks for this most excellent review. As someone who loves classical dress watches, I had (almost) given up on Patek, as I felt they were not doing enough to bring new life to their Calatrava collection. When I saw the 6119, I initially thought I was hallucinating. For me, the 6119 is what Patek is about, and it is Patek being Patek. They hit all the right notes with this one. This genre of timepieces is the most difficult to get right. And I say this as an owner of one of the most beautiful three-hand dress watches in current production; the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual Wind (reference 82172) in rose gold. I cannot wait to see the 6119 in rose gold soon enough. Also, I am sure with this new movement, there will be other Calatravas, and also a 5196 replacement. Maybe 6196. Now I know there is a Patek for me in the near future.
I think you’re right about the probability of a 6196 with the new movement – looking forward to seeing it. It’ll be the one to beat when it arrives, even if the price brings it within touching distance of, let’s say, some very tempting high-end independent pieces.
I am very glad to have absolutely nothing negative to say about a watch. What a relief! 😁
I wonder if it is my imagination but I detect a distinctly Grand Seiko aesthetic to the movement.
That popped into my head at first but then was more reminded of certain calibres made in Fleurier by Parmigiani (PF700 series/5401) or Chopard, but without the micro-rotors – with a pinch of the aesthetic of an old Frederic Piguet 151.
Not a bad mix.
When I saw the release I knew they’d hit the mark; a fine balance between modernity and timeless understatement. I have been looking at a 5196 or 5227 for a few years now but never came to a choice. I was very fortunate to find one last week and when I saw it in the metal it didn’t disappoint. Hence the rose gold version is now on my wrist. Enjoying it enormously; it’s lovely; It does get noticed maybe because a fairly large gold dress watch is unusual.