Celebrating its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin unveils several new models in the Marine Torpilleur collection during Geneva Watch Days: two timepieces with date and power reserve displays, a moon phase watch offered in two dial colors, a chronograph with an annual calendar offered in two dial colors, and a flying tourbillon prominently displaying its special escapement against the backdrop of a stunning grand feu enamel dial.

First presented in 2017, the Torpilleur collection is dedicated to the famous historical chronometers of the Swiss manufacture with factories in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Ulysse Nardin founded his watch workshop in 1846 in Le Locle. The talented watchmaker was also a savvy businessman who realized quickly that the demand for precise marine chronometers used for navigation aboard overseas vessels was rising at that time. Soon his models guided countless ships on their journeys.

Since then, the goal of precision and pushing the boundaries of accuracy has been at the core of Ulysse Nardin. In more recent times, this pioneering spirit resulted in several firsts in the world of watchmaking, including an escapement made of silicon (2001), a diamond escapement (2005), and the DIAMonSIL escapement (2007) made of silicon and synthetic diamond.

The new models of the Marine Torpilleur collection also integrate this innovative, high-tech, non-magnetic material in their manufacture calibers; all provide a lengthy power reserve, depending on the complexity, and some are officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometers.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase on the wrist

The watches offer a tasteful contemporary take on historical marine chronometers with large Roman numerals and cathedral hands on wide dials framed by thin, fluted bezels. The high-contrast dials, some of which are crafted by Le Locle-based specialist Donzé Cadrans, since 2011 a subsidiary of Ulysse Nardin, proudly display “Chronometry Since 1846.”

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel

Limited to 175 pieces, the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel is the entry-level model of the new collection, which is dedicated entirely to marine chronometry.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel

As with most of its sibling models, the subsidiary seconds are prominently displayed at 6 o’clock. The subdial for the “Haut” and “Bas” (“up” and “down”) power reserve indicators is located across the dial at 12 o’clock. Large Roman numerals and fine rhodium-plated hands distinguish the design that is inspired by historical measuring instruments, which in earlier times was crucial to seafaring navigation.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel dial

The enamel dial made by Donzé Cadrans exudes an expressive blue shade evoking an image of a calm ocean surface. The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel is a great choice to wear at sea or on dry land.

Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
Case: 42 x 11.73 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-118, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, escapement wheel and anchor in DIAMonSIL, officially certified as C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, power reserve indicator
Limitation: 175 pieces
Price: $11,500 / €10,100

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda

The Marine Torpilleur Panda is limited to 300 pieces. Despite its name, this model does not sport a panda dial in the conventional sense as its subdials are blue rather than the usual black that warrants this nickname.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda

Also, it is not a chronograph, as fans of this particular dial layout depicting the totalizers in black against a white background will quickly recognize. The term “panda” is generally used with chronographs.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda on the wrist

Nevertheless, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Torpilleur Panda effortlessly meets the most important requirement imposed on nautically influenced timepieces: a high-contrast display revealing the different functions at a glance. The power reserve at 12 o’clock and the oversized small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock contrast beautifully against the white backdrop of the dial.

Here, too, it’s a joy to follow the rhodium-plated hands along their journey around the dial.

Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda
Case: 42 x 11.73 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-118, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, escapement wheel and anchor in DIAMonSIL, officially certified as C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, power reserve indicator
Limitation: 300 pieces
Price: $8,200 / €7,200

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph

Although they are not nearly as complex and sophisticated as perpetual calendars, which provide the correct date, month, year, and leap year indication until 2100, annual calendars remain faithful companions only needing to be corrected once a year at the end of February.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph with blue dial

It was Patek Philippe who invented the annual calendar as “a useful everyday complication” with its Reference 5035 in 1996.

Today, the Genevan luxury manufacture has several annual calendars in its collection, including one that incorporates a chronograph. This combination is still rather rare as there is only a handful of Swiss brands producing them: these include IWC, Richard Mille, Carl F. Bucherer, Montblanc, Breitling, Parmigiani, Zenith, and of course Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin’s annual calendar was invented by the inimitable Ludwig Oechslin using only nine additional parts; it was licensed to Zenith for use in that brand’s annual calendars as well.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph dial

One example from Ulysse Nardin is the Marine Chronograph 43 mm powered by Caliber UN-153. This automatic manufacture caliber comprising 406 components also runs the show within the Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph, which is available with a white or a blue dial.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph with white dial

Unlike previous Ulysse Nardin models, the Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph dispenses with the chronograph’s 12-hour counter, providing a cleaner dial. The chronograph second hand and 30-minute counter remain, though, the latter located at 3 o’clock. The running seconds at 9 o’clock share a subdial with the month.

The limitation of 300 models per dial color is likely to create a high level of desirability among collectors.

Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph
Case: 44 x 13.66 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-153 with silicon balance spring, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 52-hour power reserve, escape wheel and pallet lever in DIAMonSIL
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph, backward- and forward-setting annual calendar with date and month
Limitation: 300 pieces in each dial color
Price: $12,100 / €10,600

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase

Many aficionados of classic timepieces would agree that a comprehensive collection of top Swiss watchmaking should include at least one model with a moon phase display. Therefore, it’s not surprising that Ulysse Nardin offers a Marine Torpilleur variation with this sought-after astronomical complication.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase with blue dial

Ulysse Nardin has been producing watches with moon phase indications since the end of the nineteenth century, and on this one the earth’s satellite travels along the large subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock in classic horological manner.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase dial

Its design mirrors the real celestial body, surrounded by an entourage of shiny stars against the backdrop of a night sky. The indication blends harmoniously with both of the dial colors on offer, white and blue.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase with white dial

The white-dial variation features blued hands, while the blue-dialed model sports rhodium-plated hands in the same style. As with all Marine Torpilleurs, the dials are framed by wide, thin bezels, enhancing the instrument-like impression.

Limited to 300 pieces each, they set sail with manufacture Caliber UN-119, which boasts a power reserve of 60 hours and can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.

Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
Case: 42 x 11.13 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-119 Manufacture, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, escape wheel and pallet lever in DIAMonSIL, officially certified as C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, power reserve indicator, moon phase
Limitation: 300 pieces in each dial color
Price: $9,900 / €8,600

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu

Last but certainly not least, Ulysse Nardin introduces a tourbillon as the technical flagship of this revamped naval fleet. Indeed a logical step as this complicated style of escapement invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of the earliest mechanisms to increase the accuracy of the watch movement.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu

A tourbillon should not be missing in a collection entirely dedicated to marine chronometry, and this particular example has an extra kick of precision: the Ulysse Anchor Escapement.

Therefore it is not surprising that the patented constant-force mechanism was first revealed in 2014 at Baselworld without a watch and then a year later in 2015 within the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon received the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2015.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu

To list all its innovative features would go beyond the scope here. However, the statement of the 2015 GPHG jury sums it up perfectly: “The result of eight years’ research and development, and made entirely in silicon, this escapement presents a hitherto unprecedented architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms that harness the elasticity of flat springs. This innovative construction is housed in a 60-second tourbillon.”

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon with black oven-fired dial

A black oven-fired enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans creates a distinguished backdrop for this flying tourbillon, which is as filigreed as it is ingenious. The cage comprises 35 components weighing no more than 0.4 grams.

Limited to 175 pieces, the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is the only timepiece in the new generation’s lineup to be offered in a gold case. To match the exquisite appeal of the precious metal, the hands are pink gold plated. 

Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
Case: 42 x 11.13 mm, pink gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber UN-128 Constant Manufacture with one-minute flying tourbillon, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, escape wheel and “anchor” in silicon
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 175 pieces
Price: $48,400 / €42,200 / CHF 45,900

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