America’s popular consumer watch show is back. With 28 participating watch brands set to showcase their latest products – among them several watches that the public will see for the first time – the sixth edition of WatchTime New York takes place at Midtown Manhattan’s Gotham Hall from October 22 through 24, 2021.
One of the most significant North American luxury watch events, Watch Time has expanded from two to three days this year, giving attendees more time to explore the latest timepieces in a relaxed atmosphere in which to see the watches and put them on their wrists.
The three-day event brings together some of the world’s most sought-after watch brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Chopard, Glashütte Original, Grand Seiko, Jaquet Droz, and Zenith. In addition, the exhibitor list includes some of the hottest independent brands such as De Bethune, Czapek, Greubel Forsey, Laurent Ferrier, and MB&F.
To celebrate WatchTime New York’s return, here are three watches available to see and try on at the show.
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase: celestial beauty
I can’t help wondering if the watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne hum “twinkle, twinkle little star” when they add the stunning dials of the latest Lange 1 Moon Phase variation, which was first introduced at Watches and Wonders 2021. Whenever I look at them, the children’s song starts playing in my own head.
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase with aventurine dial
No wonder: the dial’s dark blue aventurine sparkles like the night sky with a myriad of tiny stars. This extraterrestrial ensemble is accompanied by eight star-shaped markers beautifying the off-centered subdial for the indication of time. The effect is an eye-catching image of a cloudless night sky under best visibility conditions as may be seen in some remote rural areas in the northern hemisphere.
A. Lange & Söhne’s dial maker puts the three parts of this aventurine glass covering over a solid silver dial base, which gives the creation distinct depth. The result of all the special care taken with this watch is obvious, making it one of the most beautiful timepieces currently on the market.
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase with aventurine dials
The brightest star of this sparkly show is the white gold disk representing the moon. Displayed against the same aventurine background, it is adorned with no less than 628 stars. Only requiring a full day’s correction once every 122.6 years, the mechanism tracks the lunar cycle with accuracy.
As it is the case with all Lange 1 Moon Phase timepieces, the entourage of complications includes a Saxon-style power reserve indicator (“auf” and “ab”) displaying the remaining energy in the manual-winding movement, and the characteristic Lange large date, which is color coordinated to match the overall blue/white gold aesthetic.
Typical for A. Lange & Söhne is the showcase of technical complexity through the sapphire crystal case back. Comprising 411 components, Caliber L121.2 proudly displays traditional Saxon-style decoration and finishing. Highlights include the characteristic three-quarter plate crafted in German silver, the hand-engraved balance cock, fine Glashütte ribbing, and gold chatons.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/little-lange-1-moon-phase.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase
Case: 36.8 x 10 mm, white gold or white gold with bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.2 ct)
Movement: manually wound Caliber L121.2, untreated German silver plates and bridges, hand-engraved balance cock, 411 movement components (8 of which are chatons and 44 of which are jewels), 72-hour power reserve, in-house balance spring, 3 Hz/21,600 vph, swan-neck fine adjustment
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; large date, power reserve indicator, moon phase
Price: €42,800; €53,900 with diamond-set bezel
Armin Strom Tribute 1: Swissness at its best
If anyone is wondering what direction contemporary watchmaking may be heading in, a glance at the Armin Strom Tribute 1 answers the question without further explanation. What a superb showcase of a modern dress watch!
Armin Strom Tribute 1
Respecting all the honorable codes of traditional Swiss watchmaking – a genuine manufacture movement, a great deal of craftsmanship, and an unmistakable yet subtle design – the stainless steel timepiece is a testament to creativity and a great contemporary dress watch beyond the more well trodden paths of haute horlogerie.
With case dimensions of 38 x 9 millimeters, it effortlessly checks the box for the type of proportions a dress watch requires. It shows presence on the wrist, yet it slips easily and comfortably under the cuff. However, the Tribute 1 should not be hidden. Far from it!
Its dial is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and avant-garde design. The most obvious element is the visible spring barrel in the lower right part of the dial, which overlaps with the off-centered time indication subdial. Meticulously hand-polished, it proudly displays the the impressive power reserve of 100 hours in words.
Armin Strom Tribute 1
The spring barrel is held in place by an openworked finger bridge in solid white gold: the execution of the 60-degree beveling on its edges could serve as a textbook example for traditional Swiss craftsmanship.
Speaking of craftsmanship, the entire dial, which could be a reference for a sophisticated color study in gray, shines with exceptional hand-finishing and detail to create an interplay of light and shadow on the wrist. While most of the dial side has a finely grained surface with an industrial-like touch to it, the offset dial to the upper left showcases a filigreed concentric pattern. The slim bezel and the color coordinated Alcantara strap perfectly complement the distinguished charisma of Armin Strom’s Tribute 1.
The mechanical powerhouse within is Caliber AMW21, featuring a variable inertia balance running at a frequency of 3.5 Hz. As to be expected, the finishing is also exceptional and meets the highest standards. We see bold Geneva stripes, fine perlage, polished bevels and countersinks, and a balance cock that echoes the design of the barrel bridge on the dial.
Armin Strom’s Tribute 1 is a compact example of the beauty of traditional mechanics and the dedication to refinement in the best sense of Swissness.
For more information, please visit www.arminstrom.com/en/kollektion/system-78/tribute-1-first-edition.
Quick Facts Armin Strom Tribute 1
Case: 38 x 9.38 mm, stainless steel, 50-meter water resistance
Movement: manual winding Caliber AMW21, 25,200 vph/3.5 Hz frequency, 100-hour power reserve, white gold barrel cock
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 25 pieces (with white gold barrel bridge)
Price: 13,900 Swiss francs
Remark: 10-year warranty, double the standard warranty offered by Armin Strom
Bovet Monsieur Bovet Turquoise: three case styles, two faces, and unique craftsmanship
There’s something inherently poetic about guilloche dials, but this latest Bovet timepiece takes the handcraft to a whole new level. The time-honored technique, once made famous by none other than Abraham-Louis Breguet, lends each element a refinement that enthralls connoisseurs who know about the time-consuming manual process of carving tiny circular or linear patterns into the surface. The process is the same today as it was more than 200 years ago; even the original hand-driven lathes of yesteryear are used to achieve it.
Monsieur Bovet Turquoise in titanium
With a steady hand and the utmost dexterity, the guillocheur uses a rose engine to finely engrave the desired circular patterns onto a metal surface. Simultaneously turning two cranks, he or she carefully incises the desired motif, using gentle pressure to remove the fine metal chippings. The variety of decors is unlimited, though they all share the same fascinating light reflections, which vary depending on the angle and the viewer’s perspective.
From whatever perspective you see the latest execution of the Monsieur Bovet, you will be delighted. The artisans of the Swiss manufacture used the signature lotus flower pattern with 12 petals to mark the hours on the turquoise dial. The filigreed, spiral theme makes for a spectacular backdrop for the applied white gold Roman numerals and serpentine hour and minute hands.
Monsieur Bovet Turquoise in pink gold as a table clock (left) and wristwatch
Adding to the joy, there is another dial on the flip side thanks to the ingenious Amadeo convertible case design. The case can be quickly and easily transformed into a pocket watch or a small desk clock in addition to the wristwatch. The flip side displays an eye-catching composition including an off-centered subdial adorned with the same lotus pattern and visible components of hand-wound Caliber 13BM09AI.
Inhouse developed and manufactured, Caliber 13BM09A1 boasts an impressive power reserve of seven days with a single barrel. In contrast to the other side, the flip side indicates the seconds. However, it is not a simple indication and requires superimposing two fourth wheels rotating in opposite directions on the same axis, another amazing mechanism to delight the observer.
For more information, please visit www.bovet.com/Timepiece/monsieur-bovet-turquoise.
Quick Facts Bovet Monsieur Bovet Turquoise
Case: 43 x 12.3 mm, pink gold
Movement: hand-wound manufacture Caliber 13BM09A1; 3 Hz/21,260 vph; power reserve of 7 days
Functions: hours, minutes, double coaxial seconds; power reserve indicator
Limitation: 60 pieces
Price: CHF 53,000
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Tribute 1 By Armin Strom: Redefining The Contemporary Dress Watch
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