H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results In A Refining Of Preference
by Martin Green
Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.
With a few exceptions, I think that the future of watchmaking lies in a narrower bandwidth of diameters as that future is genderless. Besides that, watches like the new version of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater are like a culinary reduction: their flavors intensify.
More in less
H. Moser & Cie is a brand that really knows how to balance the “ingredients” that make a watch. To make this version a little smaller, Moser’s engineers made the case and bezel narrower. The result is somewhat similar to Jason Statham in a tailor-made Italian suit: it fits perfectly, yet you can see the (horological) muscles bulging underneath.
This smaller size gives the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater a very powerful appearance and a confident look, even more powerful and confident as Moser didn’t sign the dial as is its custom. This is something we have seen in other models, and I feel that it is an authoritative statement as it confirms that there is no need for dial branding. The people who need to know will recognize it instantly as a Moser anyway.
Minute repeaters belong to a specialist area of watchmaking, and for the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Moser partnered with Timeless SA. Founded in 2008 by Georges Léger as part of his Groupe Régence, Timeless is known for developing high-end mechanical movements.
Timeless was responsible, for example, for the caliber that powers the Charles Girardier Signature Mystérieuse Tourbillon, which won the prize for best Ladies’ complication watch at the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Timeless SA also happens to be the place where Dominique Renaud (founding partner of Renaud et Papi Audemars Piguet, APRP) is working his magic along with Pierre Favre. His company, MHC, which was known for its multi-axis tourbillons and minute repeaters, is now part of Timeless SA. The movement of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater was initially his project.
The hammers of the repeating mechanism of the Concept Minute Repeater are placed on the dial side, with the gongs wrapped around the movement. This way, they take advantage of the space between the dial and the sapphire crystal to transmit the sound. Additionally, the engineers reworked the case to create open spaces to do the same.
The material of a watch case can also contribute to the volume and clarity of the sound of the minute repeater. Titanium, perfect for this, is one of the two case materials in which Moser offers the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater.
The other – red gold – is less ideal from a sound perspective, but great from a marketing point of view. Some people who spend this amount of money on a watch featuring a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater simply desire precious metal to be used for the case, even if it might have a negative impact on the acoustic performance.
Move one up
The caliber powering this Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater is not significantly different from that of its predecessors. It is finished with a lot of care and attention, which results in fine details including Moser’s signature double stripes.
The manually wound movement has a generous 90-hour power reserve and is partially openworked at the back. This allows better appreciation of the gear train and adds to the overall perception of this Moser as a very refined timepiece. I am pleased that they didn’t overly skeletonize it as well. While skeletonization may be an attraction in its own right, it takes away from the classic style that Moser balances so well with a contemporary touch.
Beauty in blue
I recently organized a photo shoot that included Moser’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. This is a phenomenal watch, yet my photographer told me that he was slightly disappointed by the small dial. To him, the fumé dials are part of the Moser magic, and he wants them to be as large as possible.
The Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater is extra pleasing in this sense with a dial in Aqua Blue featuring four different color pigments. It results in a vibrant and captivating dial that does not overpower the rest of the watch. Combined with the titanium case, it gets a classy cool look, while in red gold it impresses with its contrast.
I usually prefer a minute repeater to sound as loud and clear as possible to do justice to the exclusive nature of the complication, but the red gold of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater’s case in combination with the Aqua Blue fumé dial is too tempting a combination to resist. I guess sometimes perfection is not only found in smaller packages but, surprisingly, also in those making perfect compromises.
For more information, please visit www.h-moser.com/product/endeavour-concept-minute-repeater-tourbillon-aqua-blue.
Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater
Case: 40 x 13.5 mm, titanium or red gold
Movement: automatic Caliber HMC 904 with one-minute flying tourbillon, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 90-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; minute repeater
Limitation: 20 pieces each in titanium and red gold
Price: $365,000 each
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