by Martin Green
Titanium made its very tentative steps into the world of watchmaking around three decades ago. This lightweight material first found its way into sports watches and was almost exclusively given a matte finish as it was difficult to polish.
A lot has changed since titanium is now widely used in horology. One of the characteristics of newer alloys is that it can be polished to perfection. While this makes it look almost like steel – apparently one reason this case-finishing technique was not favored 30 years ago – it does add visual lightness to the watch.
And lightness is something that Bovet has highlighted in the latest version of the Virtuoso V.
Bovet Virtuoso V from both sides with its salmon-colored dials
A beautiful beast
With a diameter of 43.5 mm, the Virtuoso V sounds like a beast – but it is really a gentle one. The clever design of the lugs not only enhances the charisma of this model but also contributes to its wearing comfort.
The Bovet Virtuoso V even resides pleasantly on my modest, 18-centimeter wrist. The bezel is relatively thin, making it all dial. On previous versions of the Virtuoso V, this was already an imposing feature, but on the latest one it is even more so.
Bovet Virtuoso V as a table clock
Bovet opted for a salmon-colored lacquered dial without a guilloche motif. What could have been a vast, pink-colored wasteland becomes a beautiful oasis as this charismatic hue works so beautifully with the blued screws, retrograde minute hand, and (sparse) black printing and background for the jump hour disk.
As the dial has a curve to it, the salmon-colored lacquer displays a mystical shimmer that is very appealing. A uniquely shaped, blued hand indicating the minutes flies back to zero when it reaches 60, while the disk below it jumps to the next hour.
Bovet Virtuoso V on a white gold chain as a pocket watch
This beautiful display of time is also one of the most volatile as a lot of power must be built up and released in a fraction of a second. The challenge here is two-fold as it is equally important to have both the hand and disk perfectly aligned and dependably remaining so time after time.
Bovet Virtuoso V as pocket watch
Back to back
The rear of most watches showcases the movement, but with the Virtuoso V this is only partially true. Some of the gear train and the balance wheel are visible, but so are the five-day power reserve indicator and a dial that can be set separately from the jump hour display on the other side.
Bovet Virtuoso V with salmon dials
This allows owners to turn the Virtuoso V in a travel watch – but also much more as it comes with the Amadeo Convertible System. This not only means that you can pick which side of the watch you want to wear up on your wrist, but also that you can turn it into a desk clock or pocket watch in a matter of seconds and without the need for any tools.
It is hard to compare this Virtuoso V with its siblings in the Amadeo line as they are all so different in nature. While the Virtuoso V may be a bit more restrained by the use of materials and “lack” of guilloche, I think this is also precisely the power of this model. It brings a sense of purity, even more focus on the complications, and offers a generous dash of salmon, making it a very welcome addition to the Virtuoso V collection.
For more information, please visit www.bovet.com/highlight/virtuoso-v-salmon.
Quick Facts Bovet Virtuoso V Salmon
Case: 43.5 x 15.7 mm, Grade 5 titanium with stainless steel patented Amadeo Convertible system
Movement: manually wound Caliber 13BM11AIHSMR with five-day power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: (jump) hours, (retrograde) minutes; hours, minutes, and seconds on the reverse dial; power reserve indication
Limitation: 30 pieces
Price: CHF 68,500
Remark: comes with white gold pocket watch chain; five-year warranty
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