by Martin Green
The Breguet Reine de Naples is far from your ordinary ladies’ watch. With the first example initially made for the sister of Napoleon Bonaparte, Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples, and most likely attached to a string of pearls, it was in all probability the first wristwatch ever created.
In recent years, it has served as inspiration for Breguet’s current collection of Reine de Naples watches.
Breguet Reine de Naples: it’s an oval
One of the most striking features of this collection is the oval-shaped case, a rarity in a world where round wristwatches still rule the day. Rectangular cases are more popular than ovals among shaped cases, and square shapes have already become more of a niche. Other brands have tried working with ovals, but I can’t think of any that have enjoyed such consistent success with the shape outside of Breguet.
In the newly introduced References 9835 and 9838, the oval shape has become more challenging as it features a unique minute hand that traces the minute track around the edge of the oval dial. This is not exactly new as Breguet introduced the concept in 2021 with the Reine de Naples Coeur Reference 9825, which was fitted with the same system to indicate the minutes.
Hands like this have a place in history on a few vintage pocket watches, including one by Vardon & Stedmann that Parmigiani used as inspiration for its Ovale Pantographe. As the name already indicates, this too is an oval watch, but the way the hands trace the perimeter of the dial was quite different. The Parmigiani hands consist of multiple parts, while those of this Breguet system only have two components that are set in motion by an intricate set of gears that enables each part of the hand operate at a different speed, thus controlling the shape.
Timeless elegance
While the Reine de Naples Coeur Reference 9825 was dedicated to love, with the heart-shaped minute hand playing a beautiful role in this, References 9835 and 9838 offer more everyday elegance.
They differ quite a bit from Reference 9825 in character. Reference 9838 is the most straightforward of the two, featuring a white gold case with a matching white lacquered dial. Its Arabic numerals are elegant yet prominently present on the dial. The fact that Breguet made some of them solid with blue color and kept others only to outlines gives the watch’s visual an almost sporty casual touch.
The same goes for the use of gemstones as Breguet opted for blue sapphires set on the bezel, crown, and flange. While this watch is clearly an haute horlogerie creation, it also exudes a certain lightness, almost sportiness, that is quite refreshing.
Reine de Naples Reference 9835 has another card to play. Its dial is made of mother-of-pearl that showcases different hues of blue. The wandering hours disk, visible through a window at the center of the dial, matches this perfectly. The look is exquisite, and to highlight this Breguet added some contrast by setting the flange and bezel with brilliant-cut diamonds. These diamonds also decorate the lug at 6 o’clock, while a briolette-cut version of the gemstone is set in the crown.
Two watches, one movement
Both new models in the Reine de Naples collection are powered by Caliber 78A0. In line with modern-day traditions at Breguet, this movement is fitted with a balance spring, lever, and escape wheel made of silicon. This both reduces friction and wear and eliminates the negative influence magnetism can have on the balance spring and its precision.
Part of the movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal insert in the case back, which includes a beautifully finished oscillating weight made of platinum. While Reference 9838 will join the regular collection of Reine de Naples, Reference 9835 is limited to just 20 pieces.
For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/new-models-reine-de-naples/9838 and www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/new-models-reine-de-naples/9835.
Quick Facts Breguet Reine de Naples Coeur Reference 9838
Case: 36.5 x 28.45 x 11 mm, white gold set with 161 blue sapphires
Movement: automatic Caliber 78A0, 3.5 Hz frequency, silicon escape wheel and balance spring, 40-hour power reserve; platinum rotor
Functions: hours (digital), minutes (heart-shaped hand of varying length)
Strap: blue alligator skin, triple folding clasp set with 28 blue sapphires
Limitation: 20 pieces
Price: €51,100
Quick Facts Breguet Reine de Naples Coeur Reference 9835
Case: 36.5 x 28.45 x 11 mm, white gold set with 161 diamonds
Movement: automatic Caliber 78A0, 3.5 Hz frequency, silicon escape wheel and balance spring, 40-hour power reserve; platinum rotor
Functions: hours (digital), minutes (heart-shaped hand of varying length)
Strap: blue alligator skin, triple folding clasp set with 28 diamonds
Price: €56,600
You may also enjoy:
Breguet Reine De Naples Coeur Reference 9825: Be Still My Shape-Shifting, Beating Heart
Breguet Treats The Ladies With Gorgeous Reine de Naples, Marine, And Classique Versions For 2019
Queen For A Day: Breguet Reine De Naples Haute Joaillerie
The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made . . . For Women
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