Tutima Saxon One Chronograph: It Offers A Lot Of Watch For Its Price
by Martin Green
Tutima is best known for its legacy in aviation watches, which lives on today on the M2 and Grand Flieger collections, but they also have more to offer. With the Patria, they showed that they also master the art of making in-house movements in the grandest traditions of Glashütte, the German watchmaking town near Dresden which the brand calls home.
Original case shape
At 43mm in diameter, the Saxon One Chronograph is a big watch, but Tutima knows how to work the site into a very wearable watch. They opted for an original case design, like a rounded cushion shape with facets. This results in a lot of play of light, making the Saxon One Chronograph an eyecatcher on the wrist.
The chronograph pushers are nicely tucked away at the side of the case, while the crown has real guards protecting it.
My favorite is the model with blue dial, which draws your attention. Tutima also fitted the Saxon One Chronograph with a rotating bezel with a red marker to make countdowns easier. That red marker works nicely with the red hands used for the chronograph functions. The domed sapphire crystal coated on both sides with an anti-reflective coating adds to the professional vibe of the watch.
This shows how the brand approaches casual chic. All the details have been thought through, both individually and in combination with each other. The result is a very balanced design that simply works. At the same time, Tutima dares to be different. That’s quite something, as most brands just follow trends as standing out is not always as profitable as fitting in.
Strap or bracelet, that is the question
Tutima offers the Saxon One Chronograph on either an alligator strap or a good-looking bracelet. They both set the watch apart in terms of appearance yet look very different. With the alligator strap, there is more emphasis on the watch itself. It also makes the timepiece slightly more elegant, an appropriate choice to enjoy a night at the opera in Dresden. With the bracelet, it becomes more of an integrated design.
Tutima went the extra distance with the Saxon One Chronograph bracelet. The links are brushed and connected with polished H-shape links. That’s not something you often see and the contrast adds a touch of class.
The movement is an old acquaintance
Due to the dial layout, some might have already suspected that the Tutima caliber 521 is a modified ETA/Valjoux 7750. This is one of my favorite automatic chronograph movements because it is sturdy, and reliable, plus I like the feeling when the rotor moves. On this Tutima, the oscillating weight runs very smoothly, but on occasion, you feel the rotor rock a bit on your wrist, making you aware of its power.
Another feature that I love is that Tutima gave the movement a centrally mounted minute counter. Here we see their aviation experience coming to the table. Another nice feature is the 24-hour subdial at twelve o’clock, which doubles as a convenient day/night indicator. All these modifications add to the sophistication of the Saxon One Chronograph.
The movement can be admired through the display caseback, through which you can see the oscillating weight featuring a golden Tutima emblem. The movement has a nice but industrial finish that is suitable to the style and price of the watch.
Interestingly, despite being a chronograph with a sapphire display caseback, the water resistance is a generous 200 meters. While I won’t recommend getting the beautiful alligator strap wet, the metal bracelet won’t mind, making it even a good watch to enjoy the occasional swim or even scuba dive with.
Overall the Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. It is a watch for people who want something a little different and pride themselves on owning a high-quality timepiece made with an eye for detail.
For more information, please visit https://tutima.com/watch/chronograph-royal-blue-6420-05/
Quick Facts Tutima Saxon One Chronograph
Case: 43 x 15.7 mm, stainless steel, rotating bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber Tutima 512 (ETA/Valjoux 7750 base), 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 VpH
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date; chronograph; 24-hours
Price: from €4,600 in stainless steel with an alligator skin strap up to €4,900 for the stainless steel version with stainless steel bracelet
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