New Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection: Yes They Are Too Big, But Are They Really That Polarizing?
by Ian Skellern
It’s probably too early to say that we can reflect better on the new Patek Philippe Cubitus collection now that the dust has cleared because it only launched a few days ago (17th of October), but at least we have had time to sleep on the collection.
My first reaction was that I didn’t like the design, too square and not elegant enough for Patek Philippe, even for a sports watch collection.
But as the hours and days past, I found myself liking the design more and more. Yes, at 45 mm the launch models are way too big for most, but I’m sure that there was some strategic decision for launching the collection with the jumbo-sized models – perhaps just to give the haters a bone to chew on – but smaller case sizes are surely already well down the production pipeline.
The Cubitus case looks like a Nautilus after it has eaten too many pies and then spent a few months in the gym. The sharp angles give the case and dial more of a harder look than the Nautilus.
The comparatively softer looking Nautilus looks like what you would expect from a Patek Philippe sports watch i.e., one that was unlikely to be playing sports.
The Cubitus would look at home on a bodybuilder.
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Philippe Cubitus collection
There are three models in the Cubitus launch collection: the Self-Winding Ref. 5821/1A in steel, the Self-Winding Ref. 5821/1AR dual tone in pink gold and steel, and the Grande Date Ref. 5822P-001 in platinum.
Whether you feel the 45 mm case size is too big or not, one thing I don’t like and feel is beneath a brand like Patek Philippe is dropping a relatively small diameter movement in a large diameter case in all three launch models.
While the wide bezel and lug guards hide just how far the date window is on the automatic models, when you look at the display back you can see just how small the movement is relative to the case size.
And the same is true for the grand date model.
While the small movements – 27 mm diameter Caliber 26‑330 S C (based on the 2019 caliber 26-330) for the Self Winding, and 31 mm diameter Caliber 240 PS CI J LU for the Grand Date do allow for smaller case sizes to follow, they do emphasize the fact that Patek deliberately and strategically chose to launch this new collection is what is today an extremely large size.
For added shock value? To reduce initial demand? To make the case look slimmer until we all get comfortable with the new shape? Or perhaps all of these or none of these reasons?
Two more things I’m disappointed with in these new models: no quick change strap/bracelet option and only water resistant to 30 meters, which is paltry for a screw-in crown sports watch.
And I can’t help lament the demise of the importance of Patek Philippe’s hand finishing: for movements from such a prestigious brand and at these price points, I’d expect at least one or two sharp internal angles. Instead all we see are nicely shape curved anglage.
Something else to wonder about is why Patek Philippe decided to basically replace the Nautilus Ref. Nautilus Ref. 5711 with the new Cubitus Ref. 5821/1A rather than offering both.
While a few reasons have been floated, I suspect that if they hadn’t stopped the Nautilus 5711 (the previously most popular Patek Sports watch). then the new Cubitus collection was at greater risk of being a flop. Now if you want a simple Patek Philippe sports watch the options are more limited.
I would not be surprised if we see more Nautilus models discontinued.
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Cubitus Self-Winding Ref. 5821/1A (steel) and Self-Winding Ref. 5821/1AR (two-tone)
While 8.3 mm high is relatively slim for a sports watch, when the case is a hefty 45 mm wide it looks positively ultra-slim!
Features include date (though personally I’d prefer a clean dial without the date), stop seconds and a screw-in crown (though that’s not used to increase water resistance).
The ribbed green dial of the steel Ref. 5821/1A looks good and is not too flashy. I suspect that despite the size, this will be the most popular model, at least until smaller case sizes are available. And at $41,240 it is the most affordable.
For more information, please visit www.patek.com/en/collection/cubitus/5821-1A-001
The blue dialed two-tone (steel and pink gold) Ref. 5821/1AR is the more flashy look-at-me model, and it will be more likely seen in office/work settings than on a sports field.
It does look good though: you can’t go wrong with pink gold and a blue dial. However, at $61,280 you are paying a hefty premium for a partially gold case. But watch certainly makes a statement!
For more information, please visit www.patek.com/en/collection/cubitus/5821-1AR-001
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Cubitus Grand Date Ref. 5822P
Unusually in this day and age, the Cubitus Grand Date’s name undersells itself: it’s actually a grand date, day of the week, and moon phase. And with a gold micro-rotor to boot. That’s a nice selection of indications and they are well laid out on the dial.
The asymmetry at the bottom of the dial of the day/moon phase subdial (left) and small seconds (right) adds visual interest and I think that looks better than if the two subdials were the same size.
Again though, as impressive as that big date is, just look how far it is from the top of the dial, let alone the edge of the case. The movement is tiny in this imposing case.
Caliber 240 PS CI J LU is a nice-looking movement, but again shame on Patek for not including a few hand polished internal angles. I suppose Patek knows that their customers are now more interested in the brand name rather than the superlative hand finishing that helped cement their reputation.
A 45 mm platinum case must weigh a ton so this isn’t a sports watch you will be swimming with. As with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum cases, this one features a diamond inset in the caseband (just above the bottom lug) and this one is a baguette diamond, which is a first. It’s basically to let your friends know that it isn’t a steel case.
At $88,380 the Grand Date is no bargain, but it does look to be better value to me than $61,280 for the two-tone.
For more information, please visit https://www.patek.com/en/collection/cubitus/5822P-001
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I wanna cry they’re so ugly. This massive—well they said it—cube (with the corners trimmed off) sat on a Nautilus strap. There’s even a little Code 11:59 in it too, the way the clamshell case is borrowing from the Nautilus is akin to the 11:59 borrowing screws from the RO. Oh why couldn’t PP have just doubled the production of the Nautilus? It’s not like they’d have problems selling them.
Ian, I wholeheartedly agree this new model takes a while to study & get used to. It’s certainly “out-there” for what we assume PP produces. But, it also displays Patek is not only a conservative grand maker. My first impression was “WTF?” That rapidly disappeared into a why not? Sure, the prices are hefty but, that rides the wave of in today’s quality productions, what isn’t. Givens: it proves PP can be bolder than presumed, it’s 3 models fill the initial gamut, it shows variations unseen at Patek, it attempts to widen their attraction audience & it boggles the mind of brand followers. Searching for negatives? Well you’re absolutely correct jumbo alone (for the brand) is a minus. More options aka unisex 40mm is sure to come. And you’re spot-on for the money, one should expect grander accents in visualizing a superb movement should be there. I’d guess they won’t. I appreciate screw down crowns on all pieces. Surely hardly any would dive with this model. Swim? Why not. So, it removes the fear of how wet one might dare, etc.
All-in, Hat-Tip P-P. Why not! Will it soon be the next grand sport success? Probably not overnight – few are. When considering alternatives in this price range, I could name 2 or 3 other Patek models I’d certainly grab first.
Most of true high brand aficionados already complement our collections with what we find as must-haves, must-ads.
So, we’ll see sooner or, later where this model lands in the BIG picture. But, that’s not what’ll make for happiness on the wrist by the owner. It’s good to see Patek widen its offerings and that’s quite healthy in feeding our longings. Creatively new is as important as honoring classism. Proof Patek’s eyes are wide open.
Just say’in…
Jon
So now we know the real reason Patek discontinued the 5711. It wasn’t that they didn’t want a sports watch overshadowing the rest of their collection. It’s just that they wanted to find a way of charging more for an inferior watch, and trolling the suckers by seeing how ugly they can make it. Talk about adding insult to injury.
My initial reaction was negative, but it’s growing on me. I think it adds a new dimension to the integrated-bracelet-steel-sports-watch universe. The small movement grates rather, as you say.
Just as the new shape Landrover Defender is more suited to urban terrorist forays than fording streams on your country estate, this watch is more of a boardroom flex than a sports watch. It will be interesting to see how it influences watch design over the coming years.
So what percent of Patek owners are collectors? And are Patek collectors a different breed from the regal watch collector?
I loosely define a collector as a person that buys and for the most part holds onto his collection This person carefully evaluates the level of finish of the case and movement, looking for at least a few complicated bevels as well as unique flair to the workmanship. He looks at case size & movement size relative to the case, the degree of water resistance, presence of a stop seconds, etc.
Till I read this article, I thought of myself as a collector. I own a good number of watches with a variety of complications, where the level of finishing is commensurate to the watches price. I own a variety or complications from good to great brands, including Lange, Patek, etc. I buy and for the most part hold.
Now I wonder, maybe Patek views the run of the mill collector as not necessarily as Patek Collectors. Do my evaluation criteria put me beyond (this) entry level Patek and into a grouping of “timepieces” where everything is taken up a notch?
No thank you Patek..I will pass on this oversized “watch” and will holdout for a real collectors “timepiece “.
An answer to your questions might be yes or, no. I truly believe Patek only cares that you enjoy your watch model. It’s quite easy for any or many to say “Patek sets expectations/wants/says blah-blah-blah-blah.” Frankly, anything like that couldn’t be farther from the truth.
I’ve had the pleasure of knowing Mr. Stern & his son Thierry 20+ years. They set every standard at Patek. Their concern is quality + precision, their expectations are a finish they are pleased with. They hope those who are interested can & will enjoy or, entertain owning a P-P. Regardless of what one might presume, their price is their price based on extremely skilled labor, materials, production, packaging, messaging/marketing + profit. Not hard to calculate. Nevertheless, based upon what goes into each piece, far out of the reach for most.
You can be a collector simply by having what you like in either variety or specifics. Patek would never dictate a single rule or presumption. And why would they? Most quality watch brands & manufactures have to care about competition for price & quality. The rare few at the top don’t have to worry. Patek, Lange, Breguet, V-C, A-P, put a hell of a lot into their productions. You/me/we might appreciate each or, not in particular for X,Y,Z model, etc. To each his own.
So, not saying you or anyone in particular but, any presumption Patek dictates, qualifies, expects or projects what a customer “must do/must be,” is entirely erroneous or BS. Once you own any P-P, they’re there to help you get the most out of it.
Top tier brands care that you care whether to own or, just notice. They can afford to. Just like today’s top-tier indys, the venerable old-timers got there because they’re worth it.
As an aside, the barometer I use as a collector includes: desire, utility, wearability, differentiation (a 1 each per brand is fine) & happiness level. Yes, I’ll trade a piece BUT, only to acquire what I want even more, especially if I find myself not wearing the other. I’ve found you can stare at anything long enough if it doesn’t offer utility or satisfaction? Then, why keep it? I’ve brought my collection down to favorites only!
You nailed it.. that’s exactly how I see my collection.
I love the green dial and retro style, reminiscent of the VC 2215 , and will be trying to get my name down in the list today fingers crossed. .
It is a lazy introduction. It’s not ”the first new” in 25 years. It’s a square Nautilus.
It’s a lazy choice of movement. Too small, yes. But also a round movement in a square case.
Indeed lazy.
Ian & co have not read the small print and focused on the 45mm. It’s a square watch so unless you’re measuring side to side, which they’re not, you can’t compare it to a circle.
My thoughts? The first time I saw a Nautilus I didn’t think ‘that’s nice’ but first look at this I did think that’s a Patek. People seem to forgot the Nautilus wasn’t popular for its first few decades. You’ll warm to this much quicker.
All the best,
Ed
I have read the small print and I do think you can compare 45 mm round and 45mm square, because if a a 45 mm square watch seems large to you, 45 mm square will seem a lot larger because it is: the surface (case and dial) of a 45 mm diameter circle is 15.9 cm2 compared with a 45 mm sided square at 20.25 cm2: the square is more than 25% larger.
And I do like it the Cubitus, just not at this size. I think it will become widely sought after and mainstream much sooner than many seem to imagine.
Regards, Ian
On a rather technical note, I think it is key to see this watch in the metal, appreciate the width 9 to 3, which is down to the 10th of a mm the same as the 5811g (44.5mm incl. crown).
Many critics in the WWW will come around I am sure and this watch will be impossible o get in the future.
It comes as no surprise that I think the watch is outstanding and a great addition to the collection.
Touche! Avant garde sometimes takes a bit of time for some to see. This model is simply another bit of creativity many don’t expect from Patek. Most look for movement innovations from the venerable brand. Once the line fills out with additional smaller sizing, it’ll add to their broader selection options.
Patek should have developed appropriate square movement for this new style. If JLC can do it for the Reverso, Patek could do it for the Cubitus. PS name is terrible.