There are few horological stories steeped in as much controversy and lore as the tale of 1969 and the first automatic chronograph. Not only do three different brands have a valid claim to being the first to have achieved making the historic complication, but the short-lived happiness of said achievements the very same year, thanks to the introduction of the quartz watch, make the story tragically bittersweet.
The realization of an automatic chronograph was huge for the watchmaking world, but over the following months and years it was more or less overshadowed by quartz technology. So much so that five years later in 1974, practically the last new automatic chronograph movement for the next few decades was released with little fanfare.
That movement, the Valjoux 7750, went on to be one of the most long-lasting and widely used movements for all price levels of watches in the modern era thanks to being the most cost-effective, reliable and easily configurable.
Over the years, the Valjoux 7750 has been released in dozens of configurations making it a true chameleon and nearly cornering the market for affordable mid-range automatic chronographs.
The movement side of the Valjoux 7750
Problem on the horizon
For this reason there is also a problem on the horizon. Now produced by the Swatch Group-owned ETA, what is now known as the ETA Valjoux 7750 and its variants will be included in the current and expanding limitations on parts and ébauches for non-Swatch group brands.
Basically, if you aren’t on their team, you may not be able to buy 7750s in the near future. I do not intend to comment on such proceedings, but this little fact is useful to know because it makes it very clear that the industry is in need of at least another player.
Sellitta with its clone Caliber SW500 is a good example, but as of yet it cannot be made in the volume needed by the industry.
There are brands producing movements, yes, and companies producing chronographs and automatic chronographs, but not at the volume level of ETA and not at the sweet price point of the Valjoux 7750.
The dial side of the Valjoux 7750 movement
The 7750 is a no-nonsense, cam-driven chronograph that is relatively easy to manufacture at scale and a solid choice for a small brand to utilize. With the prospect of having to look elsewhere since the Swatch Group announcement that supply would be reduced and eventually halted, other movement makers have been in the crosshairs for desperate brands.
Enter the brand-new NE88 automatic chronograph movement by SII, Seiko Instruments, Inc. It might just be what the market has been waiting for. Actually, it might be better than they had hoped. But why?
White knight from the east?
That is a question with a complicated answer, and for this nerd writer it is taken from a perspective that Swiss isn’t necessarily better; instead, better is better.
And then we have the somewhat subjective question of what constitutes better. Let’s start with the obvious.
The NE88 is designed to be a possible replacement for the 7750 in general size, function, and, most importantly, cost. According to early reports, the NE88 will be available for approximately the same price as an ETA 7750. And Seiko is likely to be a reliable partner able to deliver high volumes.
That fact alone makes it a safer bet for long-term investment, even if you are hesitant about any perceived quality. A smart manager would not bet a brand’s future on something that has already been clearly stated to soon be unavailable except to the “chosen few.”
Also, the NE88 is available for development without any pre-conditions like long-term contracts or high volume commitments, or a need for the buyer to go through a vetting process; something which I have heard isn’t always the case with certain movement makers.
To help with that development, technical guides with all of the necessary measurements needed when designing around the NE88 movement are already available. While this is not unique to SII, it shows that the maker understands what is expected and needed to try to fight the big dog in the yard.
The Seiko SII NE88 movement
Standout features
The NE88 has some features that really stand out, and a few causing even seasoned collectors and watch nerds take notice.
First off is a classic Seiko feature: a triple-tipped hammer that simultaneously and instantly resets all the subdial counters back to zero. It’s a very clean and effective solution already found on the Seiko 8R28, a higher end column-wheel triple vertical clutch movement utilized in the Ananta and Velatura models.
However, more important and eye-opening is the chronograph activation mechanism: a column wheel. Considered by the industry and collectors alike as a more highly coveted mechanism, thanks to its vertical clutch the column wheel offers a much smoother tactile feel than the harder click of the horizontal cam lever chronograph as used in the 7750.
This by itself makes the NE88 a “nicer” movement to use than the one it seeks to supplant.
Follow up that already rare-for-this-market-segment feature with the addition of a vertical clutch and you have a real winner. A vertical clutch was invented to solve many problems that chronographs face with jumping second hands, excessive wear on the center wheel, and the obviously rudimentary mechanism that sees a wheel “jammed” into another when starting the chronograph.
The NE88 employs a vertical clutch to avoid these issues, which goes toward creating a top-notch chronograph movement. Because a column-wheel chronograph is more complex to produce, more difficult to adjust and virtually impossible to service, it is a mechanism usually reserved for only the best chronographs on the market. So to find it as a standard feature on a reasonably-priced movement hoping to overtake the industry workhorse is a pretty big deal.
A pretty big deal
Actually, the whole movement is a pretty big deal if it can live up to claims as well as the rigors of the real world.
Also, I am hoping that it solves some other issues with the 7750 such as excessive noise and vibration from a slightly sloppy ball bearing on the rotor. This is a signature element of the 7750, which some collectors actually enjoy as it makes you very sure you have a 7750 on your wrist because you can feel the rotor moving as you wear it.
However, to many collectors, that element is a large detractor from the 7750. It could be a very big side benefit if the NE88 is nice and quiet on the wrist.
Also, the 7750 has never been a particularly attractive movement, but it’s possible that the new NE88 might prove to be something brands will put a little effort into embellishing since it has a better chance of being appreciated with the column wheel and vertical clutch.
Beside these features, the NE88 seems to be a very comparable movement to the 7750 in terms of functions. And in terms of dimensions, the NE88 has a slight edge for being thinner (by 0.28 mm) and smaller in diameter (by 2.0 mm).
This allows even more freedom in designing for the NE88 because you have more room to work with and can make an even smaller timepiece than you could with a 7750.
While it is only a bit smaller, every millimeter counts when designing a timepiece for the wrist. A common issue for automatic chronographs has always been size and the NE88 may be highly appreciated by brands and collectors wanting a more wearable piece.
Vostok-Europe Mrija chronograph with Seiko SII NE88 movement
The first brand to use it
So who will debut it? And when will be your first chance to get your hands on a wristwatch containing an NE88 automatic column-wheel chronograph movement?
Well, those two questions are easy to answer. The lucky brand that had first dibs and one that is a known entity for this writer is none other than Vostok-Europe. In fact, have a look at my review of the Vostok-Europe Radio Room here.
What did I say? Yup, the first watch to hit the market powered by this awesome, new, and possible 7750 killer will be made by Vostok-Europe in honor of its tenth anniversary this year.
Inspired by the world’s largest aircraft, the AN-225 Mriya, the Vostok-Europe Mriya will be a 20 ATM diver in stainless steel coming at 50 mm diameter. Not a small watch by any means (look at its inspiration), but definitely a bold debut for a possibly game-changing movement.
Back of the Vostok-Europe Mrija chronograph with Seiko SII NE88 movement
I for one am very excited to see where the NE88 goes and how the market and the industry react to it. I am also very anxious to hear reports on the build quality, longevity, and overall quality of operation.
If things pan out, we may have a solid and affordable automatic column-wheel chronograph alternative that defies long-held beliefs that only the best comes from Switzerland.
There is also no doubt that the Swatch Group has the industry in a tight spot. This might be the movement that changes the future, and makes quality, affordable watches not a thing of the past.
It is definitely too soon to know, and time will tell, but I am one nerd writer who will be as excited about this as a kitten in a feather pillow factory!
Vostok-Europe Mrija chronograph with Seiko SII NE88 movement
Quick Facts Vostok-Europe Mriya
Case: stainless steel, 50 mm
Movement: Caliber SII NE88, automatic column-wheel chronograph
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Price: approx. $2,399
Limitation: 500 pieces, comes with two straps and a strap-changing tool
Release date: late September 2014 (can be ordered here: www.detentewatches.com)
Trackbacks & Pingbacks
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[…] Seiko NE88 is a solid contender. A couple articles:The Seiko SII NE88 Automatic Chronograph Movement: A Change In The Wind? | Quill & PadBlog – Spotlight: The Seiko caliber NE88Chronography 12: Seiko's Modern Mechanical Chronographs – […]
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[…] reviews so far, and I'm looking forward to experiencing it. A good article on the movement here:The Seiko SII NE88 Automatic Chronograph Movement: A Change In The Wind? | Quill & Pad The attractive chrono pushers on the MK I are VERY stiff, but I wonder if that will change over […]
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[…] if it lives up to expectations, it might even be a better movement than the 7750 on multiple fronts.The Seiko SII NE88 Automatic Chronograph Movement: A Change In The Wind? | Quill & Pad This article actually has me more excited about the MK1! Reply With […]
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[…] a year ago but I haven't seen it turn up in anything other than the watch referenced in this story: The Seiko SII NE88 Automatic Chronograph Movement: A Change In The Wind? | Quill & Pad I think this is the same movement as in the 50th anniversary sdgz013. wearing some […]
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[…] Nytt automatisk chronoverk fra Seiko som muligens kan ta opp kampen med 7750. Quill & Pad | The New Seiko SII NE88 Automatic Chronograph Movement: A Change In The Wind? […]
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[…] When it comes to mechanical chronographs, the Valjoux 7750 has been the sort of gold standard that many people look for. As we wrote about here, there was a Japanese contender for the mechanical chronograph crown – Seiko. Now, with supplies of the ETA-sourced 7750 assured to start getting tighter, Seiko has introduced a new NE88 column wheel movement – at the same price the 7750 can be had. Those two bits right there really seem to make it a contender, but there are some other surprises up the sleeve as well. Get the full rundown over at Quill & Pad. […]
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Two important things/comments need to be made:
1.) It is not an integrated chronograph but a module sitting on top of a classic Seiko. Therefore it is not especially visually appealing when you look at it from the back as no chronograph element can be seen. As a side note, the movement does not look high-end by any standards… Regarding the noise/vibration of a 7750 winding or the one of a Seiko, I am not sure that you would choose the latter…
How do you want to make a Swiss Made watch with a Japanese movement ? The first brand using it clearly shows that it has no real market.
Are we still buying watches for how their movement looks or how they work. Lets respect the Japanese for making a movement that performs better than its counter parts.
Yea, its made thanks to a module, like many auto chronos out there.
Not being “visually appealing”… lets be honest, its no different than a base Valjoux/ETA 7750. The Rotor, which is what you see isn’t bad for the price.
The price… I can’t seem to find the movement price, but I’m guessing it’s well under $299. Maybe less in bulk? Why $299?, because there are a couple of watches making the rounds (I believe on Kickstarter) for about $400 that use the NE88/R8.
Also, unlike the V7750, it has a “Tri-Compax” (aka 3, 6, 9) design. Not the 6, 9, 12 subdial design the V7750 has. Yes, there’s the Valjoux 7753, the TriCompax Valjoux. But if you want one, $650 EASY and that’s for a simply finished V7753.
Every other tricompax auto (that’s affordable) uses a Dubois Depraz module on an ETA 2892
Seiko developed a few auto Chrono movements. 1 design was sold I believe to Tag and is being sold as an “in house” movement. Another is for high end, like a King Seiko Chrono.
I think the r8/NE88 is a nice movement. I’d take it over a Valjoux/ETA… unless its the 7753
Yes? Four years later and we are still waiting for the two important things/comments you announced.
Just kidding. We know you never had any. The replacement comments/things prove it abundantly.
Seriously….why have the better movement with a brighter future vrs a movement about to be discontinued?
Nice review, Joshua. But you’re neglecting to mention one decisive key advantage the V7750 and its Swiss brethren have over the NE88, or anything made by Seiko for that matter: NE88 powered timepieces will not have ‘Swiss Made’ on their dials.
Like it or not, but the Swiss watch industry has the high mech watch market cornered. That translates into a veritable stranglehold at the high end, but even below that a watch brand can ask many hundreds of dollars more if it says Swiss on the dial.
As long as that’s the case (IMHO at least for the foreseeable future), factoring in lost revenue the NE88 ebauche seems a pretty expensive choice.
who cares I have one of these watches and it performs brilliantly
These days, given the behavior of the Swiss watch making industry over the last 10 years, “Swiss Made” is considered by some to be a mark of shame, its true meaning a shadow of what it really used to stand for. Before you chastise me, I have several Swiss movement time pieces (both in-house and ETA-based), and for the most part they are good, solid pieces. But the Japanese have been doing it right for many years. How else could Seiko charge 15k and up for a Grand Seiko with Spring Drive (a TRUE innovation)? I think the days of “Swiss Made” being the be-all-end-all may gradually become a thing of the past. The East is coming, and collectors new to the hobby don’t have the pre-conceptions that many of us long-time collectors have. The arrogance of the Swiss manufacturers may end being their downfall.
There will always be Swiss watch snobs. People hang on to their beliefs like a dogs and their bones.
That’s true I have some entry ETA Swiss units but decided to drop the real coin on two springdrives. I consider them the Lexus of the watch world.
Thank you, Johannes and Bob, for your comments.
I am entirely sure that the brands who will choose to use the NE88 in the foreseeable future are less worried about having Swiss Made on their dials. Vostok-Europe, for example, is based in Lithuania and its primary focus is to make affordable watches. To this end, the NE88 fits the plan perfectly.
I think we will have to wait and see what the affordable “Swiss made” brands will end up doing. The restrictions that the Swatch Group have announced are already tightening up; the industry crunch is already being felt. And the reality is that Sellitta et al cannot make enough movements to satisfy the need.
Or why else did TAG Heuer use SII technology as the base for its 1887 Caliber? Oh, yes, because it’s also good quality.
this is so true
Just like comparing any two things side by side, saying this is different that that and it is not. This is an automatic movement that will help fill the void of the 7750 and SW 500. Who know it may be better, it may not. I am sure there was one sceptic out there in 1974. Who know maybe this will get Eta to change their minds about keeping most of their 7750’s and opening it up to other brands. Remember there was a time when you for the most part had to hand crank your car windows down. The 7750 is a classic for sure but remember there is more than one classic 50’s car. Keep an open mind. And saying it is not a Swiss is like saying “That’s a Ford not a Chevy”.
I´m lucky to own an Invicta with the NE78A, which I think it is exactly the same as this one. It is also the same movement as the 8R28A, which seiko sells in their watches for around $5,000 (My Invicta costed me $270!!). Another thing often not mention, is that this movement does not have just a vertical clutch, but a triple vertical clutch, one for seconds, minutes and hours. It is an integrated chrono, but one might get confused because almost all seikos have the same design for the automatic plate and system. I feel it a lot better than my 7750 watch and more accurate, even counting in that my Invicta comes “unadjusted”. I guess this NE88 is a newer and better version, so it most be great! You can see all the specs on their page, http://www.timemodule.com/sii/index.php?route=product/category&path=0_61#product_NE88, be sure to look at the spec sheet and technical guide.
I´m waiting for Tag to buy this design and hopefully the Invicta will be more special, hahaha.
There’s nothing vertical about the column-wheel, its horizontally activated, but requires less force than the cam in 7750 so smoother.
Secondly the vertical clutch centerwheel wont make any big difference in appearance. in fact it will look less nice if anything, Compare the Piguet 1180 wheel to an Omega 1861 for example.
Also ” Because a column-wheel chronograph is more complex to produce, more difficult to adjust and virtually impossible to service, it is a mechanism usually reserved for only the best chronographs on the market. ”
It makes absolutely no difference to a watchmaker, nothing impossible about it… where did this info come from?
I’m not sure brands will be rushing to this movement, as its obviously already sold to lower-end marques, its not going to fly in the semi-aspirational brands portfolio of watches…
This movement will serve the market occupied by the small brands that have a growing clientele very well. I for one will be eager to purchase a watch with this movement. I do not share the respect that is expressed for the 7750. When I started collecting 9 years ago I quickly bought 3 chronographs with the movement, from 2 very respected brands, only to discover that the movement is internally flawed. When the chrono is repeatedly started and stopped but not reset the hour hand eventually becomes confused and elapsed time can no longer be accurately read. I am interested to see what Steinhart, Lum-Tec etc will design around the new movement.
I am sorry to hear your disappointment but I bought a Technomarine with 7750 in it and due to its offbrand name and luck I was able to buy for less than 500 dollars. I have been using the chronograph and have always reset it, exactly for the reason you just mentioned. You can’t blame your lack of proper care on the movement. It’s like not changing your Benz’s oil and blaming engine problems on the manufacturer.
I have over twenty chronographs with the 7750 or the sellita 500. I bought most of them from Invicta for under $500. Invicta is considered a clown company by most watch lovers. I have never had a problem with an eta 7750 or the Sellita 500.
As a webshop watch dealer I can see how diffecutl it is for Germans brand to get the ETA, and Selitta and Sophod especcaily in Switzerland can not keep up with the supply needed around the workd. Therefore the Seiko NE 8 movement is going to be a very good altanative.
Qualitywise. We all know that the japaness does not make anything half done. Could there be childdiseses as we say in Denmark. perhaps. But I thing of all the diseases the OMEGA 2500 Co-axl movement had. I know from a watchmaker that 25 – 35 % of the watches with that movement had to go back to Swissgroup in the country it was sold from, to get an upgrade. My PO from Omega included. Poor poor swiss job. Daniel was right when develop the movement that 28.800 swings an hour of the balcande would be too much. 25.500 should it be, but as an englishman his advise was not taking seriusly before a few years later. Anyway. The swiss industry is hard to dance with, as we say in Denakr. Like a big cartell. The Japaness are much easyer, and there salyery to watchmakers and anything else is much less than the salaey in Schweitzerland. In short. More watch for the bug.
Best regards
Nicholas Stenov
Just like comparing any two things side by side, saying this is different that that and it is not. This is an automatic movement that will help fill the void of the 7750 and SW 500. Who know it may be better, it may not. I am sure there was one sceptic out there in 1974. Who know maybe this will get Eta to change their minds about keeping most of their 7750’s and opening it up to other brands. Remember there was a time when you for the most part had to hand crank your car windows down. The 7750 is a classic for sure but remember there is more than one classic 50’s car. Keep an open mind. And saying it is not a Swiss is like saying “That’s a Ford not a Chevy”.
I’ve been very interested to read about the new Seiko NE88 automatic watch movement in comparison to the trusted ETA 7750 and it does sound as if it could become a genuine competitor. I will surely keep my ears pealed for more info about this new movement (which is being first used by Vostok Europe). Anything that is made by the Japanese you can be sure it will be top quality and I would expect no less. I’ve not got either the ETA7750 or the new NE88 Seiko automatic, but I’ve a strong feeling that I will end up an owner of both these movements. Any new innovation to the watch market can only be good for the industry.
One major difference that I have noticed is the 7750 and its clones such as sw500 are capable of day date. Maybe the only automatic chronograph movements on the face of earth capable of delivering day date other than maybe the speedmaster triple calendar. Anyone can make a auto chrono its having that day date feature on top that sets it apart. I came here looking for an alternative to see if there was ever a movement or a watch that provides chronograph with day date feature in automatic form and that search remains unfulfilled and this is where this is a wrong comparison to me.
Wait, no El Primero mention?