The Diablo

The diamond in question here, which Roland Iten has named the Diablo, is one of exceptional provenance and importance. Weighing in at 60.66 carats, its natural orange-brown (“cognac”) color classifies it as a fancy diamond (as colored diamonds are often called).

Its clarity has no inclusions visible to the naked eye, and two gemstone assessment organizations (the GIA and Christian Dunaigre) classify it as a Type IIa. Less than two percent of all diamonds earn classification as a Type IIa; those that have earned the right to this classification are among the most chemically pure diamonds and boast exceptional optical transparency.

Hailing from India’s Golconda region – a fact that makes the gemstone even more prestigious as the legendary mines of this area have been tapped out since 1725 – this large gemstone’s provenance can be traced back almost 160 years (the rough diamond itself is millions of years older, of course).

The R60 Diablo mechanical belt buckle set with a 60.66-carat diamond by Roland Iten

“Diamonds from the Golconda region may fetch a premium price that is two to five times more than that of a diamond of comparable quality originating elsewhere in the world,” Sfeir recently told me. Due to its age and place of origin, the Diablo is considered conflict-free.

The Diablo’s modified kite-shaped brilliant cut is an interesting one developed from the fact that at the time of its first shaping, its slight asymmetry and irregular shape – which are not visible to the untrained eye – could be the result of an antique cut performed between the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries when it was impossible to obtain perfect symmetry.

Design genius

Generally, a diamond of this significance is set into a piece of feminine jewelry brought out only for important once-in-a-lifetime events. Barring that, it becomes a collector’s cherished safe queen, destined to remain buried treasure unless something changes the course of its fate – like death, divorce, or natural disaster.

Iten was directly inspired to utilize the sparkling aesthetics of the large, faceted diamond in a man’s accessory. As it spurred his imagination on first sight, it is also likely to fill its new owner with the same sort of enthusiasm. “I was in love with it the first time I saw it,” Iten admitted. “I saw a spaceship, I saw a car; I immediately saw…the design of it.”

Thus, it was important to Iten to create a special mechanical setting that was neither prong nor bezel setting, but rather a little bit of both – one that doesn’t hide the Diablo’s corners and allows light to pass through the stone from all angles, enhancing its brilliance. “[The setting] allows you to see the sexiness of the stone,” Iten went on to explain.

The extreme clarity of the Diablo diamond allows you to see right through it to the mechanics of the Roland Iten R60 mechanical buckle beneath

The airy setting also allows one to look right through the diamond to the intricate components of the cleverly complicated buckle mechanism beneath: the object’s mechanical heart.

How not to let 60.66 carats overpower

Against the backdrop of the red gold belt buckle, the cognac diamond appears low-key, almost camouflaged, in fact. When I first heard of this new Roland Iten project, I could hardly help thinking that it was going to appear flashy, blingy, or perhaps too ostentatious for its own good.

Imagine my immense surprise upon spying it for the first time at finding it exudes a more low-key pizzazz. “That is really wearable,” was my instant thought.

“The stone’s color, it’s really cognac. And, oh god, I love cognac, especially Louis XIII,” Iten laughed before turning back to explaining the reason for using red gold for the majority of the buckle frame. “I actually wanted it to blend with the stone,” he revealed.

The R60 Diablo mechanical belt buckle set with a 60.66-carat diamond by Roland Iten

The gorgeous sheen of the 18-karat red gold chassis complements the cognac hue of the diamond in harmonious discretion, while the easily adjustable mechanical buckle offers optimal comfort whether sitting, standing, or even playing sports – like every buckle that Roland Iten makes.

The Diablo and the red gold are joined and supported by a titanium frame, which includes titanium axes and wheels that allow the mechanics of the buckle’s calibration to function without any sort of lubrication. (It is only logical to not lubricate something that is designed to be worn!)

The R60 Diablo mechanical belt buckle set with a 60.66-carat diamond by Roland Iten

It is relatively hard to believe, but seeing is believing: this scintillating, ingenious mechanical luxury is not for women, although there is no law stopping a woman from wearing a man’s belt buckle if she so desires.

“We’ve changed everything about the way large precious stones are presented, the way that they are worn, and the way that they can be appreciated,” Iten smiles, knowing he hasn’t actually changed anything at all about the Diablo diamond, but rather everything about the way that significant gemstones might be perceived and worn from here on out – totally in line with the modern feel for luxury.

“I can wear this and play golf. Or go fishing. And I think this is the total beauty about it,” Iten sums up.

The R60 Diablo mechanical belt buckle set with a 60.66-carat diamond by Roland Iten

For more information, please visit www.rolanditen.com.

For more on Ronald Iten’s mechanical masterpieces, please see Photo Essay: Making Of The R822 Predator By Roland Iten, The World’s Most Expensive Belt Buckle and A Tale Of Belt Buckles Starring Sylvester Stallone, Roland Iten . . . And Me.

Quick Facts
Diamond: modified kite-shaped brilliant-cut cognac fancy diamond
Diamond weight: 60.66 carats
Diamond measurements: 39.28 x 29.13 x 7.05 mm
Diamond clarity grade: VS2, Type IIa
Diamond grading report: GIA and Christian Dunaigre reports to accompany
Mechanical caliber: R60, red gold and titanium, 22 mm expansion width
Limitation: one single very unique piece
Price: Roland Iten is not releasing the asking price of this priceless item, but one can expect it to be in the several million-dollar range