Bronze, a copper-and-tin alloy some have described as “living” due to its beautiful way of patinating, seems to be making something of a comeback, which is certainly thanks to the beauty of the material.
As far back as 2007, Gérald Genta introduced his Gefica Safari model at Baselworld. The iconic late head of the eponymous brand that is now an invisible part of Bulgari had presented his first Gefica model in 1988, which was inspired by an African safari. Initially intended as a watch to be worn while hunting – hence the name Safari – Genta used bronze since he found that that metal reflected less, so was less likely to alert animals than other metals available at the time.
While neither the 2007 nor the 1988 versions of the Gefica were the first timepieces to be housed in bronze – this is a typically maritime-flavored material that can be traced back to use in marine chronometers – Genta was likely the first designer to understand how and why to use bronze properly in wristwatches for decorative appeal.
Back in 2007, he explained how the material took on a wonderful patina as it was worn. For me, this was one of the most stunning watch cases of the post-quartz crisis era.
Quick Facts Gérald Genta Gefica Safari
Case: 46.5 x 19.3 mm, bronze, water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial: brass with bronze and silver or bronze and black galvanic coloring
Movement: automatic Caliber GG 1004 (based on Girard-Perregaux Caliber 3100 with bi-retrograde module)
Functions: jump hours, retrograde minutes; retrograde date
Price: $14,200 at retail in 2007
Is it becoming a trend now? Five bronze watches we found at Baselworld 2016
Do these five watches signal the start of a new wave of bronze-cased watches or do they just represent a statistical blip? Decide for yourself after looking at this selection of bronze watches from Baselworld 2016.
Hautlence Vortex Bronze
Back in July of 2015, Hautlence surprisingly came out with the Vortex, which in essence constitutes a new shape for the HL2.0, the most complicated timepiece that the boutique brand has ever released (and a personal favorite of mine). The HLR 2.0 in-house tourbillon caliber with rotating regulator was turned on its side and a new case was successfully designed to accommodate. (This sounds much simpler than it really was.)
Very successfully designed, the rotating regulator peeks out at the bottom of the Vortex case, allowing a close view of its motion. It is in a word fascinating.
The Vortex Bronze is the fourth iteration of this interesting timepiece, and as its name already reveals it is encased in bronze.
For much more on the Hautlence Vortex, please see The Hautlence Vortex: Is This The World’s Slowest Tourbillon? and/or visit www.hautlence.com/vortex-bronze.
Quick Facts Hautlence Vortex Bronze
Case: 52 x 50 x 18 mm, bronze with titanium crown, water resistance 30 meters
Movement: HLR 2.0 in-house tourbillon caliber with rotating regulator, automatic winding with micro rotor, 92 jewels, 3 Hz balance frequency
Functions: jumping hours displayed by a chain, retrograde minutes; 40-hour power reserve indicator
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: 170,000 Swiss francs (including tax)
Urwerk UR-105 T-Rex
The first thing that hits you about Urwerk’s highly unusual UR-105 is its modern take on hobnail guilloche. What doesn’t hit you right off is that this CNC-generated guilloche is applied to a bronze case top (which the brand calls a bezel or shield) with a modernistic finish.
The appropriateness of its code name “T-Rex” is, however, instantly recognizable: this large-scale guilloche looks very much like large animal scales. What the bronze adds to this particular timepiece is cool coloring.
And cool it is!
For more information, please visit www.urwerk.com/UR-105_T-Rex.
Quick Facts Urwerk UR-105 T-Rex
Case: 39.5 x 53 x 16.8 mm, bronze bezel on titanium case
Movement: HLR 2.0 in-house tourbillon caliber with rotating regulator, automatic winding with micro rotor, 92 jewels, 3 Hz balance frequency
Functions: jumping hours displayed by a chain, retrograde minutes; 40-hour power reserve indicator
Limitation: 22 pieces, sold out
Price: 65,000 Swiss francs
Bell & Ross BR01-92 Skull Bronze
Bell & Ross likes to call this bronze style the brand has developed “retrofuturism.” It fits, and to be honest I think both the term and the Skull Bronze are just really attractive.
I also really like the photoluminescent skull in the dial, which is used here as a symbol found in various military codes as a talisman.
We were able to preview this watch at Baselworld 2015, which is why you can see more about its luminosity in Lighting Up With Lume At Baselworld 2015. Warning: Sunglasses Advised!
For more information, please visit www.bellross.com/BR-01-Skull-Bronze.
Quick Facts Bell & Ross BR01-92 Skull Bronze
Case: 46 mm, bronze
Dial: black with photoluminescent skull
Movement: automatic Caliber BR-CAL.302
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 500 pieces
Price: $6,900
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze
Perhaps the most talked about watch of Baselworld 2016 after the Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze is the perfect timepiece for all kinds of watch lovers: those who love heritage-inspired timepieces, those with somewhat shallower pockets, and those who just love a great-looking watch that is well priced.
As this is a diver’s watch, the bronze case also fits in a most excellent way with its maritime connotation. Let’s hope Tudor keeps on bringing these pearls to the consumer!
For more information, please visit www.tudorwatch.com/black-bay-bronze.
Quick Facts Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze
Case: 43 mm, bronze with anodized aluminum bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber MT5601 with silicon balance spring and official C.O.S.C. certification; 70 hours power reserve; water-resistant to 200 meters
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: 3,800 Swiss francs
Remark: there is an additional textile strap with a bronze buckle included in the set
Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition
Oris is another brand in the affordable watch arena that is doing a great job right now at making attractive timepieces that don’t break the bank.
At Baselworld 2016, the brand released this bronze-encased timepiece based on the gorgeous (and gorgeously priced) Divers Sixty-Five. The limited edition diver’s watch is named in honor of Carl Brashear, the U.S. Navy’s first African-American master diver.
Like the above-mentioned Tudor, the use of bronze for the case of this authentic diver’s watch is a very authentic and attractive choice.
For more information, please visit www.oris.ch/oris-carl-brashear-limited-edition.
Quick Facts Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition
Case: 42 mm, stainless steel with anodized aluminum bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber 733 (based on Sellita SW200); water-resistant to 100 meters
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 2,000 pieces
Price: 2,600 Swiss francs / $2,800
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[…] Patina could be powdery, barely glowing lume or a dial that is faded and cracked from a half century of sunshine. Some people prefer cases to have nicks, dings, and scratches to show it has been worn hard by a man with character. Worn case plating or, in the old and even new bronze cases now popular on modern wrists, oxidation bears witness to a life well worn (see Give Me Five! Bronze Watches At Baselworld From Hautlence, Urwerk, Bell & Ross, Tudor And Oris). […]
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[…] Patina could be powdery, barely glowing lume or a dial that is faded and cracked from a half century of sunshine. Some people prefer cases to have nicks, dings, and scratches to show it has been worn hard by a man with character. Worn case plating or, in the old and even new bronze cases now popular on modern wrists, oxidation bears witness to a life well worn (see Give Me Five! Bronze Watches At Baselworld From Hautlence, Urwerk, Bell & Ross, Tudor And Oris). […]
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Dear Elizabeth,
Nice article…but you forgot the marque, which has a legitimacy in the bronze since 1939 …
Would be glad to show you our products whenever you are in the Geneva region.
Big hug.
Roberto Bernasconi
Love the Gerald Genta. Has an African look which is not something you see in watches at all. Of course this piece may have started the trend, however, I think this trend was also driven by the smaller dive watch companies that use kickstarter etc. before the big boys took notice.
Thanks for your comment, Richard! The 1988 Genta was very likely long before the dive watch companies used bronze, and certainly way ahead of Kickstarter.
Really? The Black Bay Bronze has a 43mm Stainless Steel case? Get it together guys.
Thanks for picking that up, Roger. The Black Bay Bronze is now bronze.
Sorry if i came off a little harsh. :’D
keep up the great work. (Y)