恭喜发财 / 恭喜發財 (May you have a prosperous new year!)
It is now a real tradition for watchmakers to observe Chinese New Year by creating beautiful, decorative timepieces adorned with some symbolic depiction of the appropriate sign of the Chinese zodiac, often using rare, artistic techniques to pay tribute to the eastern calendar.
Part of the 12-year zodiac cycle, according to Chinese astrology the dog is loyal and honest – a great fit for a time-telling instrument!
The Year of the Dog begins on February 16, 2018.
Contrary to the western Gregorian calendar, which uses the solar day as its base unit, the traditional Chinese calendar is lunisolar, meaning it is a solar calendar with the lunar cycle (29.53059 days) as its base unit.
Because one year comprising 12 lunar months (354.36707 days) is approximately eleven days too short compared with the solar year (365.242374 days), a leap month is sometimes added. As each month of the Chinese calendar (including leap months) begins on the day of new moon, its length is either 29 or 30 days.
This means that when a year includes a leap month, it will be a thirteen-month year. On the other side, a year comprising twelve lunar months is shorter than the solar year.
This is the reason behind the variable date of Chinese New Year.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio PAM00858
As Panerai’s tenth creation in its series of now-annual Chinese zodiac-themed wristwatches, the Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio with dog motif follows tributes to the ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, and rooster zodiac signs.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio Chinese Year of the Dog
This year’s canine resides on the special steel cover of the watch, which has been decorated with an Italian engraving technique known as sparsello, whose name reflects the tool used to achieve the artwork.
Gold threads being laid in the cover of the Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio Chinese Year of the Dog
After polishing, the grooves are inlaid with layers of gold threads, which are beaten until they fill them out, providing the decorative yellow color.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio Chinese Year of the Dog with cover open
This watch comes with an extra black rubber strap in a set with a strap-changing tool and a screwdriver.
For more information, please visit www.panerai.com/en/collections/special-editions/2018/luminor-1950-sealand-3-days-automatic-acciaio-44mmpam00858.
Quick Facts Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio
Case: 44 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Panerai Caliber P.9000 with three-day power reserve thanks to twin spring barrels, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Cover: sparsello engraving inlaid with gold threads
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 88 pieces
Price: $23,600/€23,000, available only in Panerai boutiques
Ulysse Nardin Classico Dog
Ulysse Nardin’s dial maker, Donzé Cadrans, has created yet another beautiful tribute to the Chinese New Year with a gorgeous canine in exquisite enamel. Using the champlevé technique combined with a delicate chiseling of the metal parts as a risky final step, this dial is a colorful, masterful work of art.
Ulysse Nardin Classico Dog
For more on how Donzé Cadrans, a Ulysse Nardin-owned company, creates such masterpieces see Why Do Ulysse Nardin’s Dials Look So Good? Because Donzé Cadrans Authentically Fires Enamel.
For more information please see www.ulysse-nardin.com/news/classico-dog.
Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Classico Dog
Case: 40 mm, 18-karat pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-815, C.O.S.C. certified
Dial: high-fire champlevé enamel
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 88 pieces
Price: €39,800
Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar
On this timepiece’s busy dial, the Gregorian calendar rubs shoulders with the main indications of the Chinese calendar, which include a traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, the five elements, and the ten celestial stems. The latter along with the twelve animals of the zodiac follow the sixty-year cycle that is central to Chinese culture.
Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Dog
The depiction of moon phases is a key element in Blancpain’s complete calendars, and this is naturally present at 6 o’clock. Opposite that, at 12 o’clock, there is a small dog representing this year’s Zodiac animal.
For more information please see www.blancpain.com/en/news/blancpain-presents-new-traditional-chinese-calendar-limited-edition-celebrate-year-dog.
Quick Facts Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar
Case: 45 x 15 mm, platinum with ruby cabochon in crown, five under-lug correctors to adjust indications
Dial: grand feu enamel
Movement: automatic Blancpain Caliber 3638 with 7-day power reserve; 464 components including 39 jewels
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; traditional Chinese calendar with double-hour indication, signs of the zodiac, date, month of the Chinese calendar, indication of the five elements, the celestial stems and the leap months; Gregorian calendar with date, moon phases
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: £64,010
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Dog
In an annual limited edition called Legend of the Chinese Zodiac, Vacheron Constantin’s artistic tribute to the Chinese New Year is based on the idea of a Chinese paper cutting art form called jianzhi.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Dog in platinum
A motif representing foliage stemming from Chinese iconography makes for a lovely background. It is engraved into the gold dial using a bas relief technique. After engraving, high-fire enamel is added in layers that are successively fired in a kiln.
The dial provides a calendar in the truest sense of the word: its four windows respectively show the current hours, minutes, day, and date. These watches are powered by automatic Caliber 2460 G4.
For more information, please visit www.vacheron-constantin.com/en/watches/metiers-d-art/metiers-d-art-the-legend-of-the-chinese-zodiac-year-of-the-dog.
Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Dog
Case: 40 x 12.74 mm, 18-karat pink gold or platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber 2460 G4, 40-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, Geneva Seal
Dial: 18-karat gold, hand-engraved, high-fire enamel, hand-engraved platinum or gold dog
Functions: hours, minutes; weekday, date (all shown in windows)
Limitation: 12 pieces of each variation, available only in Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: €107,000 including tax (pink gold), €130,000 including tax (platinum)
Breguet Classique 7145 Chow-Chow
The Classique 7145 pays tribute to the art of guilloche (as well as Chinese New Year) with a hand-engraved image of a chow-chow, one of the most cherished dog breeds in China. Though I’m not sure why it’s tongue is blue . . .
Breguet Classique 7145 Chow-Chow
For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/house-breguet/news/breguet-unveils-special-timepiece-commemoration-chinese-new-year.
Quick Facts Breguet Classique 7145 Chow-Chow
Case: 40 mm, white gold
Dial: silvered gold guilloche dial with bas-relief engraving of gold dog
Movement: automatic Caliber 502.3, 45-hour power reserve, Swiss lever escapement with silicon pallets, silicon balance spring, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Dial: high-fire champlevé enamel
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: 42,000 Swiss francs
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dog
The annual Chopard L.U.C. XP horological tribute to the Chinese New Year combines arts, crafts, and technology originating in Switzerland, China, and Japan: Chopard Manufacture’s L.U.C XP model with its ultra-thin movement; Japanese expertise in lacquer; and China’s zodiacal symbolism.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dog
To achieve this artwork using urushi lacquer, Chopard called upon Kiichiro Masumaro, who holds the status of “national human treasure” in Japan, to oversee the project. The incredible dials were executed by Minori Koizumi, who painted the Akita breed shown in a setting that also includes wild orchids and a dragonfly.
For more information, please visit www.en.watches-news.com/chopard/chopard-l-u-c-xp-urushi-year-of-the-dog.
Quick Facts Chopard L.U.C. XP Urushi Year of the Dog
Case: 39.5 x 6.8 mm, pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber L.U.C 96.17-L with micro rotor; 65-hour power reserve via twin spring barrels
Dial: hand-painted urushi lacquer
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 88 pieces
Price: $26,850/23,860 Swiss francs
Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac
Chopard takes things to a new level for the Year of the Dog with an extraordinary one-of-a-kind creation: the L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is housed in an entirely hand-engraved pink gold case, whose case band depicts the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac in champlevé engraving filled in with a black “patina.”
Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac
The engraver needed 200 hours to complete this masterpiece.
For more information, please visit www.chopard.com/intl/diary/l-u-c-perpetual-t-spirit-chinese-zodiac.
Quick Facts Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac
Case: 43 x 15.02 mm, 18-karat pinkgold
Dial: 18-karat gold, hand-engraved
Movement: manually wound Caliber L.U.C. 02.15-L with one-minute tourbillon and 9-day power reserve, Quattro four-barrel spring barrel technology , 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, C.O.S.C. certification, Geneva Seal
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds (on tourbillon); large date, perpetual calendar
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: $264,380/235,000 Swiss francs
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Dog
Jaquet Droz has authentic historic ties to China, making this type of limited edition a natural fit for the brand as well as a real feast for the eyes of watch lovers.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Dog (left) and Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog
The dog painted onto the dial of the two variations of the Petite Heure Minute Dog is a Pekinese; the lovely little canine is set into nature-inspired scenes that are a fusion of Chinese and Western styles.
The 35 mm diamond-set variation sees the dog playing with one of Jaquet Droz’s famous butterflies against a backdrop of peonies, while the 39 mm version is more unisex in its motif.
Miniature painting on the dial of the diamond-set Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Dog
For more information, please visit www.jaquet-droz.com/en/watches/ateliers-d-art/petite-heure-minute-dog.
Quick Facts Petite Heure Minute Dog
Case: 39 x 12.23 mm, 18-karat red gold
Dial: ivory-colored high-fire enamel with miniature painting
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.P with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: 31,150 Swiss francs
Quick Facts Petite Heure Minute Dog diamond-set
Case: 35 x 10.75 mm, 18-karat red gold set with 232 diamonds (1.23 ct)
Dial: ivory-colored high-fire enamel with miniature painting
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.P with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: 38,150 Swiss francs
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog
The Relief versions of the Petite Heure Minute Dog come in 41 mm red or white gold cases, and the dials of them are exquisite: the designers chose to use a Mexican mineral called Sonora Sunrise as the backdrop, a variety of cuprite, whose copper makeup shows in its deep red color. Red naturally references good fortune in Chinese culture.
The red gold-encased variation boasts yellow gold, intricately engraved elements on the dial and an onyx time subdial, which shows off the red gold hands to advantage. While mixing golds like this is unusual in watchmaking, it really works here.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog with its unusual mix of red gold (case) and yellow gold (dial engraving)
The white gold variation boasts double rows of diamonds on the lugs and flange as well as a mother-of-pearl time subdial with blued steel hands.
The cuprite-and-gold theme is repeated on these watches’ rotors, which are visible through the sapphire crystal case backs.
For more information, please visit www.jaquet-droz.com/en/watches/ateliers-d-art/petite-heure-minute-relief-dog.
Quick Facts Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog
Case: 41 x 13.77 mm, 18-karat red gold
Dial: Sonora Sunrise (a variety of cuprite) backdrop, bas-relief engraved 23-karat yellow gold elements; onyx subdial
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.Si with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: $70,200 Swiss francs
Quick Facts Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog
Case: 41 x 13.77 mm, 18-karat white gold set with 272 diamonds (1.16 ct)
Dial: Sonora Sunrise (a variety of cuprite) backdrop, bas-relief engraved gold elements, mother-of-pearl subdial
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.Si with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: 79,950 Swiss francs
Graham Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Ltd Kelly
Docking into the pin-up girl theme presented at Baselworld 2017, Graham now presents Kelly, a new Nose Art Chronofighter limited edition celebrating the Year of the Dog in 1940s aviation glamour style.
Graham Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Ltd Kelly
Asian fusion Kelly is joined on the dial by her faithful canine friend, who hangs out between 3 and 4 o’clock, two of this new year’s lucky numbers.
For more information, please visit www.graham1695.com/index.php/watches/chronofighter/chronofighter-vintage/nose-art.
Quick Facts Graham Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Ltd Kelly
Case: 44 mm, stainless steel with fast-action stop/start trigger
Dial: hand-painted with pin-up girl and dog in 1940s style
Movement: automatic Caliber G1747 (ETA Valjoux 7750), 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; day, date, chronograph
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: $5,450/5,450 Swiss francs
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Some incredible pieces indeed! It’s great to see opportunities for the artisans at some of these manufactures to “flex their muscles”.
Really enjoyed the article, Thanks Elizabeth!