by Martin Green
What makes an enamel dial so magical? That is the question I asked myself when presented with the new version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a blue oven-fired enamel dial that Breguet recently launched.
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
It is challenging to explain what makes it so attractive to somebody who has never had the pleasure of experiencing an enamel dial. To me, it’s the subtleties: the way that the dial reflects light, emphasizing its smooth and creamy texture, is always mesmerizing to me.
Three-dimensional enamel dial of the Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
This is especially so when the numerals and minute markers are thickly pad-printed on the dial, making it almost seem as if they are floating on top of the enamel.
As a gentleman with a preference for the classics, I like my enamel-dialed watch to be slightly off-white and cased in yellow gold. But there are some rare exceptions to my “rule.”
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367 on the wrist
This new Breguet is one more to add to my select list – a list already including its pink gold sibling. The dial is a stunning, deep hue of blue. Breguet blue. And, again, it is the light that makes the difference, as depending on how it hits it can change the color from almost black to a more vibrant blue.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 Grand Feu Enamel
So how different is it from the previous Breguet Reference 5367, which also features a platinum (or pink gold) case, yet with a white enamel dial? Significant.
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
Where that one is still a very classical proposition with its blued Breguet hands, the new blue-dialed version is a touch more contemporary. The blue dial makes the watch look slightly smaller on the wrist, while the silver-colored numerals and hands give it more of a sportive touch.
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
These are details, but, as I always like to say, they matter more in the overall proposition than you might expect.
Undercover lover
Apart from the tourbillon, prominently and unusually positioned at 5 o’clock on the dial, the simplicity of the enamel dial makes the watch very understated. In general, single-color enamel dials tend to do that to watches, but the thin and relatively modestly sized case with a diameter of 41 mm also plays a role in this.
Tourbillon of the Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
The case is platinum, and this precious white metal very well plays off the blue enamel dial. My favorite part is that the case only has a height of 7.45 mm, which allows the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique to slide easily under the cuff of a fine shirt.
Knurled case band of the Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
While not an essential feature, I do feel that it makes the watch more of a private pleasure as it is not always in sight.
The fact that this is even possible is thanks to Caliber 581. While this movement pays tribute to the heritage of the brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, it is not only an homage to the past but a tribute to the future as well. At a height of only 3 mm, is it extremely thin – while still being an automatic movement!
Back of the Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367 with the peripheral winding rotor
Breguet achieved this feat by opting not for a micro rotor, but rather by installing a peripheral oscillating weight. Another advantage of that component is that the back of the movement remains unobstructed from view through the sapphire crystal case back.
Given that Breguet decorated it with stunning engravings makes it an even more pleasing solution.
The movement also benefits from innovative Breguet inventions such as the inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon pallet fork, silicon balance spring, and a titanium carriage for the tourbillon. All were developed to increase the performance of the caliber.
In all honesty, it is aspects like this that make Caliber 581 one of the most desirable time-only tourbillon movements currently on the market.
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
With the blue oven-fired enamel dial, Breguet gives a new twist to what is an already very tempting watch. Given the popularity of the color, as well as the fact that it looks distinctly different from the other two already existing models, it makes for a very welcome addition to the Breguet lineup.
For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/classique-complications.
Quick Facts Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367
Case: 41 x 7.45 mm, platinum
Movement: automatic ultra-thin Caliber 581, 3 mm high, one-minute tourbillon, silicon pallet fork; 80-hour power reserve thanks to high-energy spring barrel on roller bearings; 4 Hz/28,000 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds (on tourbillon carriage)
Price: $161,800
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