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Two faces, Two dials, Two identities

High performance escapement with
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Limited edition of 10 pieces

It’s Not Easy Being Green! 4 Verdant Watches To Celebrate A Socially Distanced St. Patrick’s Day 2020 From Rolex, Glashütte Original, Tutima, And Fabergé

by Elizabeth Doerr

I’m sure St. Patrick’s Day 2020 will go down in history as one of partying in a much different way than we are used to doing in the western world.

Kermit the Frog, who seems to be partaking while self-isolating in this viral gif, provides a prime example of how it’s done.

As Kermit has told us for decades, it’s not easy being green. And that counts double for green-dialed watches as they have to compete against blue!

Kermit, as you can see above, is probably a little drunk in the typical spirit of St. Paddy’s Day. So let’s emulate him and swerve around somewhat to pick a wide variety of watches with eye-catching green dials, ranging from about $2,000 all the way up to $89,000.

Rolex Datejust 31

Making its debut at the 2018 edition of Baselworld, this Rolex timepiece is a jewelry version of the brand’s beloved Datejust in a diameter of 31 mm, making it perfectly sized for smaller wrists.

Rolex Datejust 31

Rolex Datejust 31 with green malachite dial

The yellow gold timepiece, whose case was crafted in Rolex’s own foundry, stood out with its artistic green malachite dial.

With its lush, emerald-like hues, this natural stone sets the stage for the distinctive date aperture that is characteristically magnified by the Rolex cyclops lens that has adorned all Datejusts since 1945. The 18-karat gold applied Roman numerals VI and IX are set with 24 diamonds each.

Rolex Datejust 31 with green malachite dial

Rolex Datejust 31 with green malachite dial

At the heart of this watch beats automatic Caliber 2236 fitted with a magnetic field-resistant and temperature-stable Syloxi hairspring in silicon, offering Rolex’s superlative level of chronometric performance with an accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day. It ticks inside the legendary Oyster case, which is water resistant to 100 meters.

The Datejust 31 comes on a yellow gold President bracelet with three-piece links, a style created in 1956 for the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.

For more information, please visit www.rolex.com/watches/datejust.

Quick Facts Rolex Datejust 31
Case: 31 mm, yellow gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 2236, 4Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve 55 hours, Syloxi hairspring in silicon, C.O.S.C. certificate and Superlative Chronometer Standard
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $44,150

Glashütte Original Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date in green

Introduced in 2018 – the 2019 edition came sporting a beautiful burnt-orange dial – this model’s production was limited to that year.

Glashütte Original’s Sixties collection reflects the elegance and unmistakable design style of the 1960s – and has done so since this line was introduced in 2015 (see Sixties Iconic: Glashütte Original’s Richly Multicolored Homage To Vintage East German Style).

Glashütte Original Sixties in green

Glashütte Original Sixties Green Panorama Date

Characteristic details bring the look of this swinging decade to life: in particular, the domed, galvanic dial with its exquisitely styled Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock framed by a finely printed minute scale.

Lightly domed hour, minute, and second hands, as well as diamond-milled hour indices, underscore the elegant aura that goes perfectly with the green color, further highlighted by a specially-developed graduated color scheme.

To create this “degradé effect,” the dial maker applies a galvanic base coat, followed by layers of colored lacquer.

Glashütte Original Sixties Green

Glashütte Original Sixties Green

In the next step, black lacquer is carefully applied using a special spray gun, which produces – depending on the angle that the gun is held – an individual color gradient that renders each dial unique. At the end of the time-consuming process, the lacquered dials are fired at high temperature to fix the color.

The new Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date are powered by the manufacture’s automatic movements, Caliber 39-52 and 39-47 respectively. The signature Glashütte Original Panorama Date display, with white numbers on a black background, is positioned along the central vertical axis in the lower half of the dial.

Further reading: Glashütte Original Sixties: Retro Chic Returns In A Stylish New Green

For more information, please visit www.glashuette-original.com/collection/vintage/sixties.

Quick Facts Glashütte Original Sixties
Case: 39 x 9.4 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52, power reserve 40 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds
Price: €6,300/$7,500

Quick Facts Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date
Case: 42 x 12.4 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 39-47, power reserve 40 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; large date
Price: €7,800/$9,300

Tutima Grand Flieger Airport

Tutima Glashütte just introduced two pretty cool variations of the Grand Flieger Airport, one of the brand’s eight cornerstone collections, stocked with an ample portion of pure pilot DNA, a signature element of this brand.

Tutima Glashütte Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph with green dial, bezel, and strap

The generously proportioned stainless steel cases with bold and easy-to-grasp screw-down crowns are pressure resistant to 20 bar. They frame a reduced-to-the essentials dial that emphasizes maximum readability in all light conditions and from every angle.

Both of these dials are available with expressive green gradient coloring. Thanks to their expansive surfaces, the color has plenty of room to show off all its hues, which gradually go from light to dark from the center.

Tutima Glashütte Grand Flieger Airport models in blue and green

While the outer appearance of the new Grand Flieger Airports is all new, the inner workings rely on two tried-and-tested ETA automatic movements, Caliber 2836 and Caliber Valjoux 7750. Typical for Tutima, the rotors of these two are upgraded by adding a gold seal to enhance winding.

Further reading: New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps

For more information, please visit www.tutima.com/watches/grand-flieger.

Quick Facts Tutima Grand Flieger Airport
Case: 43 x 13 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 330 (based on ETA 2836), 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, weekday
Price: €1,900

Quick Facts Tutima Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph
Case: 43 x 16 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 310 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750), 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; date, weekday, chronograph
Price: €3,300

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald

Fabergé’s Lady Compliquée Peacock first hit the scene in 2015 and in ensuing years was expanded with a variety of colors and gem settings. I found this emerald green version of 2016 to be particularly beautiful.

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald

Inspired in part by Peter Carl Fabergé’s Peacock Egg of 1908, it shows hours and retrograde minutes via an ingenious Agenhor-designed manual-winding movement.

Hours are read at the crown at 3 o’clock via a mother-of-pearl ring that rotates counterclockwise, and the minutes indicated by the fanning tail feathers of a beautifully rendered peacock, th plumes moving simultaneously but at different speeds. The feathers return to zero when the lead feather reaches 60.

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald: the snow-set emeralds are just enchanting

The peacock’s fanning tail is embellished with hand-applied green lacquer. It unfurls with the rotation of the hours ring, which is directly connected to the spring barrel. For greater stability and regularity another ring serves as a cam.

When the cam turns, it gradually lifts a lever that applies pressure to one of the 12 teeth, which correspond to the 12 hours visible on the dial.

Further reading: The Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald Fans Out Into Colorful Gems

For more information, please visit www.faberge.com/collectionproducts/132_lady-compliquee.

Quick Facts Fabergé Lady Compliqueée Peacock Emerald
Case: 38 mm, 18-karat pink gold with exhibition case back; 54 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel
Movement: proprietary manually wound Caliber 6901 with 50-hour power reserve
Dial: 18-karat gold, snow-set with 157 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.54 ct), 52 emeralds (0.14 ct), and six emerald cabochons (0.09 ct); 18 karat gold hand-engraved peacock; white mother-of-pearl rotating hour ring and white mother-of-pearl minute track
Functions: hours (revolving dial), minutes (retrograde tail)
Price: $89,000

You may also enjoy:

5 Green Watches Likely To Become Evergreens From Rolex, Chopard, Glashütte Original, Breitling And Hermès

Blue Vs. Green At Baselworld 2018: Green Isn’t The New Blue (Hint: It’s Green)

Glashütte Original Sixties: Retro Chic Returns In A Stylish New Green

New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps

The Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald Fans Out Into Colorful Gems

4 replies
  1. Gav
    Gav says:
    March 18, 2020 at 12:30 am

    Just imagine you heard a weird noise in the night, went downstairs to switch the light on and saw what’s in that gif moving in front of you. No strings attached, not someone dressed up – it’s alive.

    Anyway, my favourite green dial is Vacheron’s Metier D’Art Les Aerostiers Paris 1784.

    Reply
    • Elizabeth Doerr
      Elizabeth Doerr says:
      March 18, 2020 at 12:11 pm

      That is an absolutely beauty as well. There are many gorgeous green dials. I just chose a few.

      Reply
      • Gav
        Gav says:
        March 18, 2020 at 2:02 pm

        Oh yes, I understand! It’s a tricky colour, though – a lot of green dials out there just don’t work. Blue seems to be able to get away with being attractive in the full gamut from dull dark, to vibrantly bright, but green…not so lucky.

        Reply
        • Elizabeth Doerr
          Elizabeth Doerr says:
          March 18, 2020 at 2:17 pm

          That is a very true statement, Gav. Personally, I’m in the blue crowd myself. It would take a lot for me to buy a green dial.

          Reply

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