A. Lange & Söhne Highlights The Difference A Dial Makes With 2020 Saxonia Thin And Saxonia Outsize Date Models
by Martin Green
Is a new dial color a new watch? Technically speaking, probably not. But a dial can make all the difference in a watch’s character, which A. Lange & Söhne highlights with these three additions to the Saxonia line.
The Saxonia has always been my favorite A. Lange & Söhne line because the watches have an unmatched purity in design, finish, and overall execution. Even among the classically inclined collections of A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia is to me the home of the brand’s ultimate dress watch.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date: solid silver dials
The first two “new” Saxonia watches are quite unusual: the Outsize Date model is now available with silver dials – more precisely, solid silver that has been silver plated (argenté as the brand describes it).
Perhaps the most classic dial color available, one might have expected A. Lange & Söhne to opt for silver when it introduced the Outsize Date model back in 2018, but it launched with a black dial in a pink or white gold case instead.
I can understand the reasoning behind this. The black dial offers a vibrant contrast to the pink gold, and I thought that the black dial with the white gold case gave the watch a slightly sporty touch. In essence, it added rare flavors to the Saxonia collection. Previously, only the Saxonia Moon Phase had been available in these color combinations.
With the addition of silver-dialed variations, the Saxonia Outsize Date becomes a more complete collection. In combination with the pink gold case, it is the quintessential classic watch, underscored by the brown alligator skin strap that it comes on.
In white gold in combination with a silver dial, what is essentially same watch has a completely different character. It is the most understated of the four, and that has an appeal of its own.
One of the things that I particularly like about A. Lange & Söhne is that the vast majority of its watches are very under the radar. These are the watches you buy not to show off your wealth or visibly celebrate your good taste, but for pure personal enjoyment.
There is a lot to enjoy with the two “new” Saxonia Outsize Date models as A. Lange & Söhne didn’t change anything else. The brand’s outstanding Caliber L086.8 still powers them with its bridges crafted in untreated German silver, hand-engraved balance cock, and a generous power reserve of 72 hours.
I also appreciate the pusher at 10 o’clock, which makes setting the date a breeze.
This function could have been integrated into the crown or be one of those annoying correctors recessed into the case (not very user friendly). I think the case band pusher adds a certain dynamic to the watch, providing the dial design with just the right amount of interesting asymmetry.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/saxonia-outsize-date/saxonia-outsize-date and www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/saxonia-outsize-date/saxonia-outsize-date.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date
Case: 38.5 x 9.6 mm, pink or white gold
Dial: solid silver, silver-plated
Movement: automatic Lange Caliber L086.8, power reserve 72 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, hand-engraved balance cock, untreated German silver plates and bridges, assembled twice
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; large date
Price: €26,300 (German price)
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin black aventurine: the ultimate dandy watch?
The Saxonia Thin is another favorite of mine. Why? Because it is thin and I happen to have a soft spot for those kinds of watches.
Among all the watches in A. Lange & Söhne’s collection, the Saxonia Thin is the purest design. When this model launched in 2016 it had a then fashionable largish diameter of 40 mm, but later a 37 mm version was added, which is the one still available today in either pink or white gold.
In 2018, A. Lange & Söhne introduced a stunning 39 mm Saxonia Thin with a dial made of blue aventurine. This watch is a showstopper and one of my personal favorites from SIHH 2018 as it shows a stunning play of light. A. Lange & Söhne perpetuates the tradition begun with that model now by launching a black version of it.
Curiously enough, the case diameter is 40 mm, just like the discontinued regular versions of the Saxonia Thin – meaning the four watches that make up this family are available in three different sizes.
One might wonder what the reasoning is behind this. One possible explanation is that the black dial makes the watch look smaller, so by making its case larger it wears the same as its blue aventurine-dialed sibling.
While I already loved that blue version, the black edition is even more irresistible. It is ever so slightly more understated, and although technically you are not supposed to wear a watch with evening wear this one would look so perfect combined with a velvet tuxedo jacket.
A. Lange & Söhne might have just created the ultimate dandy watch!
Making aventurine glass dates back to the seventeenth century, when it was first (accidentally) made in the city-state of Venice. This is not so surprising as high-quality glass objects were one of the items the city was renowned for.
The trick to making it is to have the copper particles crystalize in a homogenous way throughout the melted silica. This challenging process requires some experience, but when done just right way the result is spectacular.
The black version is even more like staring into the depths of space, which is quite mesmerizing and a joy every time you look at the watch.
Apart from the case size, A. Lange & Söhne did not change a single thing about this version of the Saxonia Thin. It is powered by the brand’s 2.9 mm high Caliber L093.1, which is a manual wind movement honoring all the Glashütte traditions.
Its three-quarter plate crafted in untreated German silver features gold chatons secured by blued screws, and, of course, a beautiful hand-engraved balance cock. The only downside of this watch must be that it is limited to just 50 pieces as, without a doubt, the demand must be much higher than that for this scintillating timepiece.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/saxonia-thin/saxonia-thin.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin black aventurine
Case: 40 x 6.2 mm, white gold
Dial: silver with black aventurine
Movement: manual wind Lange Caliber L086.8, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, power reserve 72 hours, hand-engraved balance cock, untreated German silver movement, assembled twice
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 50 pieces, available only at Lange & Söhne’s own boutiques
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