by GaryG
Once in a while on the collector forums, a question is posed: is there anyone in the collector community who has never, ever, owned a Rolex? As a general rule, respondents to these queries tend to express disbelief that such a creature could possibly exist given the quality and ubiquity of the brand’s watches.
Will GaryG feel the same way about Rolex?
Well, folks, I’m here to tell you that such people do exist, and that I’m one of them. And to be honest, when I suggested this article topic to Elizabeth, one reason that I did so was that I was pretty mystified about it myself: how could it be?
How it (didn’t) happen
In the beginning: The simplest explanations for why I didn’t start early with Rolex are simple: money and time. The first time I encountered the brand was during the Lucerne stop of a hard-earned student trip (more on this in an upcoming article).
I had $45 in spending money. One of my roommates had several hundred bucks that he promptly spent on what he described as, “The watch my Dad says is the best in the world.”
For me, it was too soon and too much. And even then, my spidey-sense suggested to me that my friend’s Dad’s absolute certainty and his son’s resulting zeal might possibly be misplaced.
A gaggle of Rolex Submariners (photo courtesy www.rolexpassionreport.com)
Other gateway drugs: Fast forward about six years of schooling, 15 years of 80-hour workweeks, and an increasing fascination with timekeeping. When I did turn to watches in a serious way, my attention was drawn to other brands.
Omega played a role (and to some extent filled the collection “spots” that might otherwise have been filled with Rolexes), but the big hitter for me was Jaeger-LeCoultre, starting with a steel Reverso Duoface and going from there.
It might actually be interesting to poll collectors and see whether there are two basic types: those who started with, and stayed with, Jaeger-LeCoultre and those who followed the Rolex trail.
A partial view of GaryG and MrsG’s Collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches
Now that I consider it, perhaps there are (now) Panerai and Omega Speedmaster branches to the tree as well; but that’s also a topic for another day!
Reverse snobbery: For a while, I had a pretty active disdain for Rolex, for what I now realize were three main reasons.
First, whether it’s watches, cars, or consumer electronics, I have a low tolerance for fan boys, those uncritical sorts who believe that every single feature of their favored brand is the best and also feel that is critical that you believe it, too.
For instance, at this point I’ve read way too many online threads in which Rolex’ use of 904L stainless steel is put forward as proof of the pitiful weakness of all other brands. What I came to believe was that any brand that needed such unthinking support might not be worthy of mine.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel and titanium
The second reason was that I thought I had found “better” solutions than Rolex for my needs; for example, my Vacheron Constantin Overseas in the sports watch category.
Whether it was the Overseas or other watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with its wonderful and robust X-71 bracelet, I really didn’t see Rolex watches as world-beaters in their categories.
Finally, there’s the position of Rolex as one of the world’s leading, if not the leading, mass luxury brand. If you know me, you know that I’m not innately drawn to “mass” anything, even in luxury categories; part of the appeal for me is being a bit off the beaten path.
That whole vintage thing: For the record, I loved Paul Newman. Great actor, great race driver, great (it is reported) husband, great actor. Man’s man, philanthropist.
And, of course, wearer of Rolex, including what is popularly called the “Paul Newman” Daytona.
Back to that “too soon, too much” thing: when I first became aware of the “Paul Newman” watches, the prices seemed way too dear for my wallet; now that the prices have gone through the roof, it’s now “too late, too much” for me.
Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona
In addition, the whole world of vintage Rolex seems to me fraught with peril. When a company makes many hundreds of thousands of watches per year (which, as far as I can tell from available serial number tables, was true for Rolex even in the 1960s) and has rabid fans, it stands to reason that some of those fans will attempt to find “unique” watches among the multitudes and bid up their market values.
The inevitable result: frankenwatches and outright fakes as well as astronomical values attached to minute distinctions (Double Red Sea Dweller, anyone?).
Don’t even get me started on the watches with so-called “tropical” dials that started their lives as black but now exhibit brown patina (or in plain English, corrosion).
Rolex GMT 6542 with “tropical dial” (photo courtesy www.richpatina.tumblr.com)
With the expert counsel of someone like my friend and Rolex maven Eric Ku, I could knock out the concerns about provenance and authenticity for any given watch; but I’m still not confident that the white-hot market for these desirable vintage pieces won’t crater sometime soon.
And, Rolex isn’t exactly helping with its reluctance (and in some cases reported refusal) to service watches more than 25 to 30 years of age.
I’m a dress watch guy: If I went to the bank, took all of my watches out of the safe and snapped a group photo, what you would see is an array of dress watches with a few sports/utility pieces mixed in. I’ve been in business a long time, and my daily wear reflects that.
And while a “nice” bracelet watch can be perfectly acceptable for business wear, I suppose I’ve always favored a dressier look.
Why it might yet happen
At this point I’ve pretty much convinced myself that my Rolex aversion has explainable roots. But all the same, I continue to have the nagging sense that if at some point I don’t own one, I’ll be missing something.
So, why might I finally pull the trigger?
Some friends’ Rolexes as seen at a recent group lunch
Changing lifestyle: Finances permitting, I’ll be slowing down from my fanatical work pace a few years hence. And, as I’ve lived in California for 18 years now, I’m finally starting to discover the joys of casual dress. It seems only natural that adding high-quality sports watches to the mix will be a natural consequence.
Solid product: Say what you like about Rolex, but at the end of the day its products speak for themselves in terms of robustness and excellent timekeeping, both attributes that are important to me.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40
Better bracelets: If you’d like an entertaining few minutes, do an online search for “flimsy Rolex bracelet” and read some of the comments from Rolex owners and non-owners alike.
From personal experience, I can say that the Jubilee and Oyster bracelets on my wife’s Rolexes are nothing to write home about. In recent years, Rolex seems to have stepped up its game.
Tired of being a hater: I must be mellowing in my old age! I may have reached a tipping point at which I’m willing to judge these watches on their merits rather than judge their owners as braggarts or wannabes.
Low-risk experiment: At least for the more popular models, pre-owned Rolex values are well established and fairly stable. So, there seems to be every opportunity for me to see what all of the fuss is about without too much risk of “getting hurt,” as my collector friends and I refer to the possibility of substantial economic loss on a particular piece.
So, which one?
After all of that, the happy news is that for me the choices narrow down quite quickly to three watches.
- Rolex GMT Master II BLNR: The “Batman” or “Bruiser” version of the second-generation GMT Master has a clean look and to my eye the combination blue/black bezel is just killer.
Rolex GMT Master II BLNR
- Rolex Cosmograph Daytona: For me it would be the stainless steel version with white dial. At 40 mm in diameter it’s big enough but not too big, I have a fondness for sports chronographs, and for me the Daytona is one of the landmark Rolex models.
- Daytona “Paul Newman”: Yeah, I know I said all of that stuff above about vintage Rolex. But if and when the price bubble on these watches bursts and they are back in the $25,000 range, count me in.
Rolex Daytona in stainless steel with white dial
* This article was first published on August 21, 2015 at Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet. You may find the comments under that post interesting.
Update May 19, 2016: I did take the plunge and you can read all about that at Great Rolex Experiment With The GMT Master II Or How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love The Crown.
Update August 2, 2017: Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet (Update: I Do Now!). You may find the comments under that post interesting as well.
You may also enjoy:
5 Tool Watches I’d Buy If I Didn’t Want to Spring For A Rolex Submariner
The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements Part I: Sowing The Seeds Of Greatness
Wrist Watching: Mark Wahlberg Wears A Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home
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Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!
I’m in the fortunate position of being able to afford pretty much any watch I really like, though I draw the line at pieces costing much more than $75-80K because I don’t feel any watch is really worth that much, and there are a lot of fantastic pieces in the $20-50K price range I’d rather have. And my approach to collecting is to choose one favourite example from each brand, ranging from the well known (e.g. Patek Calatrava) to the relatively obscure (e.g. Habring2 Doppel- Felix), with the exception being multiple Mosers (who can resist them…). But I’m not collecting the brands as such, just allowing myself one example from each that I really, really like. However the two major brands missing from my collection are AP and Rolex. AP because they don’t make anything I particularly find attractive, but Rolex because I hate the unending hype, market manipulation, and general sense of contempt the company and its ADs seem to hold for their customers. So whilst I could easily afford to buy one, it’s never even occurred to me to do so, and the only Rolex I’ve ever tried on was a Hulk, which I found incredibly ordinary and over hyped. So I’d lean the question the other way and ask why a serious watch collector should bother with Rolex when there are so many better options out there, often at a significantly lower cost?
Thanks for your comments and insights! You and I have something in common: the practice of acquiring individual pieces we really like rather than majoring in a single brand. I like to think of it as “eclectic” — others may see it as a bit scattered, but I don’t care (and it sounds as if you don’t either).
As to your question, I find the Rolex pieces easy to wear and crisply made — and if purchased at retail, considerably more affordable than steel sport watches from folks like VC, Lange, or even Romain Gauthier.
That said, I understand that they are definitely not for everyone, and I do agree that the pieces should be evaluated on their merits rather than on hype or perceived branding.
Happy wearing!
Best, Gary
You made the cardinal sin of pretending you can buy Rolex sport at retail, try not using your press credentials next time , and see how it goes ! I really find it hard to believe you didn’t use your inside connections long ago to show your clout in this realm.
Singed: Cynical As Ever.
Hi Ray, You may have made the cardinal sin of not reading carefully to the end of the article before commenting. It was easier (not easy) to buy sought after Rolex models in 2015 when the article was written. The article finished with:
* This article was first published on August 21, 2015 at Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet. You may find the comments under that post interesting.
Update May 19, 2016: I did take the plunge and you can read all about that at Great Rolex Experiment With The GMT Master II Or How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love The Crown.
Update August 2, 2017: Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet (Update: I Do Now!). You may find the comments under that post interesting as well.
Regards, Ian
Ray, that’s a cheap shot and you really have no idea how Gary got his watch, nor is it any of your business. From what I understand Gary has a broad collection built up over many years and no doubt a lot of good relationships in the watch business. But since he’s not promoting any single brand or AD there’s really no reason why his ‘press credentials’ (even if they exist) would make any difference. So please take your cynicism somewhere else.
I can assure you, Ray, that “press credentials” have no meaning to Rolex. That’s common knowledge.
Hi Gary, can you let us know which Rolex you acquired? Or perhaps a subject for another article. you have an amazing collection. I started my watch journey with a gift from my dad at 10 years old an Omega Genève.
When I could afford to buy my first luxury watch I went for Rolex sports and ended up with a few now down to three, I mainly only bought sports as my career in horticulture meat I was outdoors all the time . I didn’t consider myself a collector at that stage or educated on the matter. I was then turned off Rolex by all the hype around the brand and ventured to Blancpain AP Vacheron Parmigiani a few others and this year bagged a H Moser Streamliner which I love and my last big purchase.
Back to Rolex the one I treasure the most is a white gold Daytona panda dial 116519. It comes with a brown croc strap but I have it on a Rubber B which makes it really sporty. There’s no doubt Rolex have some amazing designs and a shame there unattainable/unaffordable. I used to just phone up my AD and have it delivered the next day! Since I have just retired I won’t be making anymore big watch purchases and don’t want to trade one in for another but enjoy looking at the lesser priced options. There’s an amazing range out there but unfortunately not many Rolexes for those that crave them.
Very cool watches! I got turned on to Parmigiani quite early in my journey and of course that Moser is very sweet indeed.
My first Rolex purchase was a Batman GMT, and I’ve since followed with the OP 41 Blue Turquoise dial piece. I came in under the radar on the latter, as I sent a note to my AD on the day of the OP launch before everyone decided it was a “hot” piece.
Thanks for commenting, and happy wearing!
Best, Gary
If I had written an article in this spirit, mine would have been entitled “Why I owned six Rolex’s, sold them all and don’t miss them even for a minute”. For me they lack character and are tragically boring. In fairness, they should be compared to other highly industrialized watches rather than ones made in an artisanal fashion. That pretty much sets them agains Omega. I find Omega’s far more interesting and indeed far more innovative. There is nothing in the Rolex collection that comes close to the sophistication of, for example, the Ed White Speedmaster. So I am content to let others knock themselves out chasing these pieces made desirable because of clever marketing.
Fair enough, Jeff! I owned Omegas a long time before buying a Rolex, so I am largely in your camp. Some of the new pieces like the Ed White with the Cal. 321 are impressive indeed — as reflected in their secondary market prices in the $20k range
Best, Gary
Some interesting insights from those far more fortunate than I. I came close to buying a Rolex when they were available. I was even offered a 15% discount.
But I decided it would give the wrong impression in my workplace.
To be honest, I have wanted a Rolex for decades but when it came down to it, when I could actually buy one, it made me pull up short and wonder what I was trying to “achieve” from the purchase. And I have to say, I believe that I almost became a victim of years and years of non-stop marketing.
Just read any watch website or magazine. They are inescapable. It seems that to most editors, the answer to all questions is “Rolex”. It is easy to feel that one is obligated to own one in order to be a “serious watch guy”.
Apparently not. 😁
Definitely not!
Best, Gary
Gary,
Great article. I started with JLC like you. I now have 3 of them. The watchmakers watch! I own a Master Reserve De Marche in stainless steel, which is one of my very favorite watches. I have a Master Ultrathin in SS with the small sub second dial and I just got a large classic Reverso with the small sub second dial in SS as well. I thought about getting a Rolex Submariner no date but too long of a wait for a brand new one. When you go to the authorized retailers no one has one. Like you, love JLC. I also love Lange, maybe one day!
Great JLC pieces in your collection! As you say they are the watchmakers’ watch — and JLC still maintains a very prominent position in my collection.
Good luck in your Lange search!
Best, Gary
Me too. Never owned a Rolex. Put off by the people that do. Omega so much better. Love my Seamaster Planet Ocean. Much cooler than anything from Rolex and it keeps time as well.
I’m with you on Omega, having owned several including a vintage Ploprof that is a favorite of mine. And they do keep great time!
Best, Gary