Only Watch 2023: Lots 17 – 32, Including My Favorite Watch of Them All
by Ian Skellern
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.
This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path.
Only Watch was created in 2005 by Luc Pettavino and under H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco’s high patronage with one intent: raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD) by auctioning one-off timepieces. DMD is a genetic disease that affects 1 in 3,500 boys – amongst which Luc’s and Monique’s son Paul, whose diagnosis was the genesis of the project. The consequences this genetic condition are a progressive weakening of all muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy.
Since then, thanks to the increasingly formidable mobilization of the watch industry and the support of an entire ecosystem, this initiative has become a very awaited biennial rendezvous in the horology calendar for both brands and collectors. It has allowed the charity organization behind Only Watch, the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, to raise near CHF/EUR 100 million and fund very significant scientific and medical progress. To learn more about these projects, please see onlyproject.org.
There are lots of great watches in this auction, but my favorite watch of them all is Lot 27. Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala.
Only Watch 2023 Lots 17 – 32
For the Only Watch auction, Chanel is offering a duo of Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa timepieces. Inspired by a photograph of Mademoiselle Chanel taken in her garden at La Pausa, her villa in the South of France, this interpretation of the J12 watch features her silhouette clad in a stripped jersey and sailor’s pants. The Mademoiselle Chanel silhouette has been printed on a sapphire glass plate and affixed to the dial.
Case: Black or white highly resistant ceramic case — Steel with black coating fixed bezel and black or white ceramic baguette-cut pattern ring — Steel or steel with black coating crown set with one brilliant-cut diamond — Water-resistant to 50 meters
Dial: Black or white-lacquered dial and illustration of Mademoiselle Chanel
Caliber: Caliber 12.1 self-winding movement with black coating developed and produced by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, co-owned by CHANEL, 5-year guaranteed
Bracelet: Black or white highly resistant ceramic and steel triple-folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter: 38mm
Specificities: The J12 is declined in a summer version, putting the icon Mademoiselle Chanel at the heart of its design.
Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 50,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/chanel
The Ice Green-toned dial, chosen to evoke the beauty of green icebergs, is found exclusively in the Antarctic. This color simultaneously symbolizes the melting of glaciers, thus illustrating major environmental challenges and endowing this creation with distinctive symbolic value.
Case: Exclusive Lucent Steel™ case — 80% composed of recycled steel — Vertical satin-brushed flanks and inter-horn space — Polished bezel and case-back surround — Exhibition sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back
Dial: Ice Green-toned 18K white gold dial — Hand-guilloché central medallion — Hand-guilloché rings marking off the minutes scale, the central zone and the small seconds counter — White gold chevron-type hour-markers — White gold Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands — White gold baton-type small seconds hand
Caliber: L.U.C Caliber 96.40-L — Self-winding movement powered by a 22K gold micro-rotor — L.U.C Twin Technology (two stacked barrels) — Frequency : 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) — Power reserve : 65 hours — Stop-seconds function — Certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Bracelet: Gray calfskin grain leather strap — Lucent Steel™ pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter: 36.5mm Height: 8.2mm
Specificities: Exclusive Lucent Steel™ case — 80% composed of recycled steel — Ice Green-toned 18K white gold dial — Hand-guilloché central medallion — Hand-guilloché rings marking off the minutes scale, the central zone and the small seconds counter
Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/chopard
Czapek’s unique, open-worked reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1830 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent escapements beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential, all beautifully featured on the dial side.
Case: Stainless steel case with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces — Cutaway lugs — Domed sapphire glass — Sapphire caseback
Dial: Champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans— Color palette of Only Watch 2023— Circular satin-polished brass flange (réhaut) with Czapek’s Only Watch “Courage every second” signature — Entirely open-worked — Grainé finish — Partially skeletonized sword hands with Super-LumiNova tips
Caliber: Czapek Caliber 8, created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer — Open-worked — Double escapement with differential — Screwed balance wheel — Power reserve indication (72 hours) — Two sapphire glass bridges — Hand-bevelling (anglage) on bridges and main plate — 18 inward angles — 6 golden settings (chatons)
Bracelet: Alligator strap with pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter: 41.8mm Case height: 12.4mm
Specificities: Unique architecture for a double escapement with differential at 12 o’clock— Open-worked — Champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans — Only Watch 2023 colour palette — “Courage Every Second” inscribed on the réhaut
Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 100,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/czapek
For the case, De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet got as close to nature as possible, seeking to rediscover ancestral iron and steel-making techniques. He forged the various parts from a magnifying glass of metal made in his own blast furnace. The patterns on its surface come from the different parts of his metal preparation, which he forged together.
Case: Damascus iron and steel from Auberson iron ores
Dial: Polished blued meteorite — Transferred hour and minute discs
Caliber: Caliber DB2149 — Number of components: 356 — Jewelling: 35 rubies — Diameter: 30 mm — Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating double barrel Innovation De Bethune (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature changes and air penetration | Innovation De Bethune (2016) — De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve | De Bethune patent (2006) — Silicon escapement wheel — Spherical moon-phase indication with a precision of 1 lunar day every 1112 years | De Bethune patent (2004) — Ultra-light 30-second De Bethune tourbillon in silicon and titanium | De Bethune innovation (2008) — Frequency: 36,000 vibrations/hour
Bracelet: Extra-supple alligator leather bracelet, alligator lining —Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: length 58mm, width 47mm, thickness 16mm
Specificities: Blued meteorite dial — Hand-forged case — Spherical meteorite moon — QR code engraved on the back of the piece giving access to unique information for the future owner — Blue sapphire cabochon on crown
Estimate: CHF 220,000 – 270,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/de-bethune
Featuring a world premiere complete tantalum case and bracelet, the Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light, whereas, the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and visible only on the back. It is therefore a watch whose indications can be enjoyed only by its owner.
Case: Finishes: sand-blasted and polished
Dial: Translucent blue Grand Feu enamel with laser-engraved matt numerals and track — Matt blue hour and minute hands — Orange seconds hand
Caliber: New exclusive hand-wound Caliber 1522 in 18K rose gold with direct central seconds — The power reserve (56 hours) and moon-phase indications ensure perfect symmetry on the back of the movement.
Bracelet: Flat-link bracelet — Finish: sand-blasted with polished chamfers
Dimensions: Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 9.5mm
Specificities: An identical case is provided with the service after the auction if it has been damaged.
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 400,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/f-p-journe
The Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch” is a one-of-a-kind anniversary timepiece in patinated bronze. Housed in this unique case is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.
Case: Round case in brown patinated bronze — Sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock — Sapphire exhibition back in sandblasted titanium — Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
Dial: Hours and minutes peripheral inner ring and seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass — Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible movement components
Caliber: Mechanical hand-wound movement with cylindrical balance-spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC — Central hours and minutes display — Seconds at 6 o’clock — Power reserve: 72 hours (2 o’clock display)
Bracelet: Green alligator & brown calfskin straps — 18mm pin buckle in sandblasted titanium
Dimensions: Diameter: 42.3mm Thickness: 9.43mm
Specificities: Patinated bronze case — Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible movement components — Set of two straps in harmony with the case color
Estimate: CHF 160,000 – 180,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ferdinand-berthoud
Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw, both Dutch-founded and Dutch-led watchmaking houses, are celebrating over 20 years of horological friendship with a unique creation that combines their respective knowhow for the very first time. Frederique Constant has contributed its Manufacture Tourbillon, designed, decorated, and hand-assembled in its Geneva workshops, together with a 42mm Classic case developed by the firm, especially for the occasion.
Case: Platinum case, 42mm, with a scratch-resistant and anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal — Open caseback — Water-resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial: Blue aventurine — Planetarium at 12 o’clock — Date and month at 9 o’clock — 60 seconds tourbillon at 6 o’clock, silver colour seconds hand — Applied silver diamond cut indexes — Hand-polished silver colour hour, minute, day and date hands
Caliber: FC-988 in-house automatic caliber — In-house hand-made decorations: chamfering, hammering, circular graining, flanks drawing, mirror polishing, engraved automatic bridge — Silicon escapement wheel and anchor — Power reserve: 38 hours — 28,800 vibrations/hour — 47 jewels
Bracelet: Blue alligator leather strap with matt finishing— Folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 42mm Height 13.38mm
Specificities: For the first time, Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw have joined forces to produce this unique Only Watch 2023 timepiece. A 42mm platinum case housing the Geneva firm’s Manufacture Tourbillon, decorated and assembled by hand, and the Dutch watchmaker’s world’s smallest planetarium, on an adventurine dial.
Estimate: CHF 90,000 – 110,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/frederique-constant-christiaan-van-der-klaauw
Lot 24. Furlan Marri: Furlan Marri x Dominique Renaud x Julien Tixier – Secular Perpetual Calendar Only Watch
Furlan Marri teamed up with renowned watchmakers Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier to create an ultra-simplified, modular secular perpetual calendar. A secular module is grafted onto this perpetual calendar, making it accurate over the next 4 centuries, which make up the secular years. Of these 4 centuries, 3 will not be leap years.
Case: Rhodium-plated silver case — Hand-turned lugs (as a piece of jewelry) — Hand-engraving on caseback by Coralie Mercier (Le Lieu, next to the Lac-de-Joux, Switzerland)
Dial: Blue titanium dial with an in-house anodic oxidation treatment — Hands: hand-crafted by Julien Tixier, including the Maltese cross on the central month hand — Sand-blasted plate gilded with 18K yellow gold
Caliber: G100 by La-Joux-Perret — Oscillating weight in 18K yellow gold — Module thickness: 1.25mm — Modular plate made from arcap alloy, gilded with 18K yellow gold
Bracelet: Milanese mesh bracelet in rhodium-plated silver, hand-crafted by Laurent Jolliet in Geneva
Dimensions: Diameter: 39mm Height: 11.3mm
Specificities: Ultra-simplified, modular secular perpetual calendar with 400-year leap and secular year calculation — A single corrector for the entire module — Exclusive module developed in-house and patented
Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/furlan-marri
Minute repeater watch with Mickey Mouse playfully indicating the time. This beloved character has played a central role in the Gérald Genta brand since the 1980s. Mr. Genta, the “Picasso of watchmaking” who gave his name to the watch brand, was bold enough to combine cartoon characters with high-complication watchmaking from 1984 onwards. This was a radical new direction in watchmaking – whimsical and daring, while undeniably keeping with an ongoing quest for excellence.
Case: The design of the case is a contemporary interpretation of the legendary and signature octagonal case design of Mr. Genta.
Made from white gold – Water-resistant to 50 meters – Alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces – Display caseback to admire the all-new Manufacture caliber GG-001 – Engraving Only Watch on the caseback – A red ruby cabochon is crimped into the winding & time-setting crown at 3 o’clock.
Dial: White gold with an enameled figure of Mickey Mouse playfully indicating the time and holding a birthday cake with one hand to celebrate Disney’s 100th anniversary.
Enamel grand feu: champlevé (done in house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Doublel) – The right arm of Mickey Mouse is animated and displays the minute retrograde on an arch from 0 to 60 – A guichet at 3 o’clock displays the jumping hour.
Caliber: New caliber GG-001 developed and manufactured at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who worked with Mr. Genta himself – Made of 394 components – Power reserve: 80 hours – Frequency: 3Hz
Bracelet: Tang buckle in white gold
Strap: Red rubber
Dimensions: Width from 3 – 9 o’clock and 6 – 12 o’clock 40mm Thickness 10.96mm
Specificities: Sketched by Mr. Genta but never concretized, this is the first time a Gérald Genta watch combines a minute repeater complication with a minute retrograde displayed by an animated Mickey Mouse – two of the most defining elements of Genta’s DNA.
Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 500,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/g%C3%A9rald-genta
The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition encompasses the brand’s highly inventive constant force technology. This pièce unique incorporates numerous aesthetic and technical improvements and serves to showcase the Manufacture’s technical prowess and legendary craftsmanship, all expressed in a neoteric form.
Case: Pink gold — Glass: sapphire anti-reflective ‘box’ — Case-back: sapphire crystal
Dial: Openworked dial with ring displaying suspended indexes with luminescent material (blue emission)
Caliber: Reference: GP09200-2196 — Hand-wound mechanical movement with constant escapement — Diameter: 39.5mm (171/2’’’) — Height: 7.4mm — Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz) — Number of components: 266 — Number of jewels: 29 — Power reserve: min. 7 days (chronometric) — Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator
Bracelet: Black rubber strap with fabric effect — Buckle: pink gold triple folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 45mm Height 14.8mm
Specificities: Reference 93510-52-3280-5GX — Manual, Manufacture, GP09200 — Hours, minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator — Chronometric power reserve of minimum 7 days — Unique piece
Estimate: CHF 140,000 – 220,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/girard-perregaux
For the first time Bart and Tim decided to add a hinged hunter case back to one of their timepieces, the 1941 Principia. The dial of the watch showcases a vibrant and intricate mandala design. The dial of the watch showcases a vibrant and intricate mandala design, inspired by the colorful logo of the 10th anniversary of Only Watch. A mandala is a symbol of the universe in its ideal form, it holds the power to transform a universe of suffering into one of joy.
Case: Grönefeld stainless steel 1941 Principia case with hunter case back — Unique engraving with the images of Bart, Tim and their father Sjef on the inside — The exterior is engraved “Grönefeld for Only Watch”
Dial: Mandala design inspired by the colorful logo of the 10th anniversary of Only Watch — We started off with 60 base dials to create one perfect dial — It took 16 clichés to print the dial, one cliché for each color — Highly polished hour markers
Caliber: Grönefeld G-06 automatic movement completely hand finished — Stainless steel bridges — Gold chatons and a 22K solid gold oscillating weight — The well-known stainless steel bridges replicate the facades of the Dutch houses
Bracelet: Salmon strap in two colors matching the dial and Only Watch 2023 logo — Stainless steel Grönefeld 1941 Principia buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 39.5mm Thickness: 11.5mm
Specificities: Hunter case back with engraving of Bart, Tim and their father Sjef — Colorful dial with mandala design — Salmon strap in two colors matching the dial and Only Watch 2023 logo
Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 65,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/gr%C3%B6nefeld
A unique Performance Art piece featuring MB&F, hosted by H. Moser & Cie. A DJ master set imbued with the DNA of both brands. MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. synchronise their beats to the same tempo and invite the public to an artistic performance led by a miniature panda DJ. Those familiar with Only Watch will remember appearances of a panda character in previous Only Watch pieces by MB&F.
Case: Stainless steel case — Screw-down crown — See-through case-back — Water-resistant to 5 ATM
Dial: Aquamarine fumé dial with sunburst pattern — Perfect mix of H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F DNA
Caliber: Three-dimensional hand-wound caliber — 18,800 beats — Mixes for 54 hours without a break
Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel bracelet — Folding clasp
Dimensions: Diameter: 42.3mm Height: 17mm including domed sapphire glass
Specificities: The H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium is a unique piece featuring a one-off movement, designed exclusively for Only Watch.
Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 400,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/h-moser-mb-f
Boundaries are blurred, the spirit takes flight, free to roam through an imaginary world. Clad in its platinum and titanium case, the Arceau le temps voyageur Only Watch 2023 offers an interpretation that is all about bright colors.
Case: Platinum lugs and caseback — DLC-coated titanium case and bezel
Dial: Black dial inspired by the Planisphere d’un monde équestre motif designed by Jérôme Colliard — Blue-lacquered mobile counter — Powdered silver-toned Arabic numerals — Galvanised dial, transferred continent names and contours — Oceans engraved by laser then lacquered — Anthracite gray transferred meridians and parallels — Hands coated with Super-LumiNova
Caliber: Hermès H1837
Bracelet: Mykonos blue alligator strap with cactus green lining — Pink buckle
Dimensions: Diameter: 41mm
Specificities: A reinterpretation of a Haute Horlogerie complication. This Arceau Le temps voyageur with its exclusive mechanism developed for Hermès is wearing the Only Watch colours: red, blue, green and yellow combined with Hermès orange.
Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 40,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/herm%C3%A8s
This sapphire watch is inspired by Takashi Murakami’s iconic smiling flower with at its center Hublot’s first-ever central tourbillon, surrounded by twelve petals set with 444 gemstones. The watch boasts an impressive power reserve of 150 hours.
Case: Polished sapphire — Shaped as Takashi Murakami’s smiling flower
Dial: Smiling flower face
Caliber: HUB9015 Manual-winding central flying tourbillon
Bracelet: Transparent rubber with smiling flower — Sapphire and titanium clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 42mm
Specificities: Designed with Takashi Murakami — Sapphire watch case — Central flying tourbillon — 444 gemstones — Colourful luminescent indices — Power reserve: 150 hours — Decorated rubber strap
Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 400,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/hublot
Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is the world’s first four-axis tourbillon timepiece. The two-arm movement spins around the first, central axis in 1 minute. The tourbillon arm bears a triple-axis tourbillon carriage with a high frequency constant force device.
Case: 47mm rose gold case — Hand-winding and setting crowns on the caseback — Sapphire caseband and crystal — Water-resistant to 3 atm
Dial: Rose gold lattice set like stained glass with a total of 35 pieces of ornamental and translucent stones such as topaz, sapphire and various types of garnets.
Caliber: CAL.08059 — Four-axis tourbillon with frequencies of 60, 18, 15 and 60 seconds — Constant force with 1/6th of a second frequency — One-minute movement revolution — Hand winding — Power reserve : 36 hours — 485 components
Bracelet: Blue alligator leather — Rose gold folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 47mm Thickness 27mm
Specificities: Movement full rotation in 1 minute — World’s first four-axis tourbillon (patent pending) — Constant force escapement — Hour and minute dial with patented differential system — Movement backplate set with 35 fine stones
Estimate: CHF 700,000 – 750,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/jacobandco-concepto
A new face to its Rolling Stones Automaton, Jaquet Droz has created a fun piece evoking all the wonder of children at play. The Stones’ instruments, hand-crafted from blocks of gold, sit beneath the offset hours and minutes display on a disc coloured to resemble a vinyl LP. The scene is surrounded by a second disc that rotates when the pusher is activated, while the iconic Stones tongue rises, falls, and moves from left to right.
Case: 18K white gold — Hand engraved case back
Dial: Hand painted black Onyx subdial with hand painted fluorescent mouth and fluorescent logo — Hand painted brass rotating disc — Hand painted golden static disc with hand engraved and hand painted instruments
Caliber: Jaquet Droz 2653AT2 — Silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges — White gold oscillating weight — Automaton: rotating disc and mouth — Power reserve: 68 hours, animation: 4 minutes
Bracelet: Fabric strap, rubber printed pattern — White gold folding clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm Thickness 16.96mm
Specificities: Automaton with rotating dial and mouth, 4-minutes power reserve — Hand painted dials, fluorescent mouth and fluorescent Jaquet Droz logo — Gold hand engraved and painted instruments and mouth
Estimate: CHF 250,000 – 300,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/jaquet-droz
For more information on all of the watches in the 2023 Only Watch charity auction, please visit www.onlywatch.com/2023collection
Which watches are your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.
You can check out Lots 1 – 16 at Only Watch 2023: Lots 1 – 16
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