Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)
by Ian Skellern
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.
This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path.
Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48
The Stargazer the most complicated Chaykin watch to date, featuring a total of 16 complication, including a tourbillon and 11 astronomical functions. This includes a symmetrical case shape, swinging H-shaped lugs, and a reversible strap with special fastening and a reversible buckle. The Stargazer features two dials allowing for numerous indications without compromising legibility. Some complications are unprecedented in the history of watchmaking: discrete moonphase, sunrise and sunset azimuth indicators.
Case: Genuine stainless ‘Bulat’ steel — Reversible design due to use of H-shaped swinging lugs, reversible pre-shaped strap and reversible buckle — Two crowns at 3 and 9 o’clock
Dial: Open-worked anthropomorphic ‘Joker’ dials on both sides of a watch
Caliber: Caliber K.22-1 — Hand-wound — Power reserve: up to 48 hours — Double-sided with dials in each side — Haute Horlogerie finishes
Bracelet: Double-sided high quality leather strap with flexible ‘Bulat’ steel blades
Dimensions: Diameter: 42mm
Specificities: The most complicated Wristmon — 16 complications, including a tourbillon and 11 astronomical functions — Unprecedented discrete moonphase display, and azimuth indicators for sunrise/sunset — The first Wristmon with double-dial reversible design
Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 220,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit https://www.onlywatch.com/konstantin-chaykin
The Krayon Anywhere tells the exact time of sunrise – or sunset – at a precise location chosen by the wearer, anywhere in the world. The handprinted blue dial explores the very intricate and precise technique of pointillism, as inspired by Théo van Rysselberghe’s painting.The artist’s perceptiveness with minute brushstrokes, the paint deposited in small, skilful touches, giving almost imperceptible reliefs to this ‘canvas dial’, the rich palette of a multitude of shades of blue, the reflection of the sky on the waves, the light caressing their surface, creating contrasts to reveal a myriad sparkles.
Case: Grade 5 titanium — This is the first ever Krayon timepiece to use titanium.
Dial: Métiers d’Art, one-off dial created exclusively for Anywhere Only Watch 2023 — Miniature painting technique, with minute brushstrokes, by hand, in a multitude of blue tones — Creation inspired from a painting from Theo van Rysselberghe, representative of the neo-impressionist movement
Caliber: Caliber C030, individual number N°3 — The only one with German silver bridges — Diameter: 35.4mm — Height: 5mm — Power reserve: 72 hours — Frequency: 3Hz — Hand-wound, with stop-work mechanism — 55 jewels — 432 components
Bracelet: Blue grained calfskin leather strap — Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin
Dimensions: Diameter 39mm Thickness 9.5mm
Specificities: First ever use of titanium case for Krayon — First ever use of German Silver not rodiated for the bridges — Introduction of a new métier d’art for Krayon, miniature painting exploring the pointillism technique, a tribute to neo-impressionist painter Théo van Rysselberghe
Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 250,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/krayon
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Only Watch” is a timepiece with a flying tourbillon and an unusual time display for the 21st century. An unconventional and distinctive style, legitimised by the brand’s historical and prestigious legacy. This creation is in fact inspired by a precious and rare “Montre à tact” from 1810, which reproduces the exquisite flinqué soleil dial with translucent aquamarine varnish and a single hand: the hour hand pointing towards the diamond-set bezel acting as hour markers.
Case: Case body, case back, repeater slide and crown in polished grade 5 titanium —Engraved back cover, bezel and buckle in 18K palladium white gold (Pd210) — Diamond-set bezel: 24 diamonds, quality G +VS, totalling 1.35 carats
Dial: Rotating dial with flinqué soleil decoration, translucent aquamarine varnish finish — Fixed arrow-shaped rhodium plated hour hand, hand-engraved
Caliber: Manual-winding movement, minute repeater, flying tourbillon with 90-hour power reserve — Unique bridge with engraved floral decoration, hand-bevelled edges, rhodium-plated — Minute repeater on two gongs struck by two hammers: hours and quarters hammer on the right / minutes and quarters hammer on the left
Bracelet: Aquamarine calf leather strap — Round-shaped open worked folding buckle featuring the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo in 18K palladium white gold (PD210), hand-engraved
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm Thickness including back cover 13.95mm
Specificities: This creation is characterised by a single hour hand on a flinqué soleil dial, precious hand-engravings on the titanium/gold case that required 120 hours of work and the sophisticated complications of the minute repeater and flying tourbillon.
Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 180,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/l-leroy
Laurent Ferrier has long been involved with motor racing since François Servanin and Laurent Ferrier, the two founders, joined forces in the 1970s to take part in the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Their friendship forged on the track led to the creation of the brand. This new, unique and distinctive dial features charcoal grey gradient shades that resemble the appearance of asphalt. On the outer edge of the dial, a track pattern alternating yellow and blue acts as a boundary for the dial, evoking the speed bumps delimiting the bends in the racetrack.
Case: Grade 5 titanium, 41.5mm in diameter. On the barrel-shaped case middle, LAURENT FERRIER added a contrasting bezel with softer features, an evolution of the Square case — Water-resistant to 120 metres
Dial: Charcoal grey gradient shades — Small seconds at 6 o’clock with ‘OW’ tone-on-tone transfer — Indexes: 18K/750 white gold 210Pd with white Super-LumiNova — 3 o’clock date window, white discs and slate grey date
Caliber: Self-winding movement LF270.01 — Diameter: 14’’’ (Ø 32.50mm) — Thickness: 4.85mm — Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) — Power reserve: 72 hours — 215 components/31 jewels — Central hours and minutes — Small seconds at 6 o’clock — Date at 3 o’clock — Horizontal satin-brushed finish and ruthenium-coated bridges
Bracelet: Grade 5 titanium 3-link integrated bracelet — Grade 5 titanium folding clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 41.5mm (3 o’clock – 9 o’clock) Thickness 12.7mm
Specificities: Unique charcoal grey gradient dial — Racetrack inspired — “Only Watch 2023” engraved case back
Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 85,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit https://www.onlywatch.com/laurent-ferrier
The Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is a high-performance watch with a revolutionary escapement. Here, Bernhard Lederer unveils a one-off, ‘dial-less’ version in a profoundly redesigned aesthetic, exposing the movement and bringing it to life with a zest of color with Super-LumiNova.
Case: The case is made of stainless steel and water-resistant to 30 meters — It is a timepiece with a fundamentally reworked aesthetic: black DLC treatment throughout, with vivid color accents.
Dial: Lederer’s invention shines through with the mechanism on the dial side — Bridges, plate, everything is DLC-coated, black with Super-LumiNova highlights as per the Only Watch 2023 color chart
Caliber: Hours and minutes — 220 components, including 46 rubies — 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz) — Hand-wound mechanism — Double barrels — Two independent gear trains, two constant-force remontoires — Mirrored detent escapement with centrally aligned impulses
Bracelet: Black strap with original Only Watch 2023 motifs
Dimensions: Diameter: 44mm
Specificities: Bernhard Lederer installed the two escapement wheels at the end of two separate gear trains, each with its own barrel and 10-second constant force remontoire (winding system) – improving chronometric performance and rate stability!
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/lederer
The colours of life, the colours of Only Watch. The dial of the Art-Tech uses the optical properties of microelectronic circuits engraved on a silicon wafer to create an intense visual animation of multicoloured reflections that flash over a clear graphic design whenever the watch moves.
In a World Premiere, a microelectronic silicon wafer dial combined with a tourbillon.The silicon wafer makes for a very special design. Each angle of vision creates a new, lively, and changing visual experience, because the wafer reacts in different ways to light. At each movement, it comes to life with multicoloured reflections that play across complex lines of the etched microelectronic circuit. The effect is fascinating.
The Art-Tech merges modern technology and traditional handcraft. It features a hand-wound tourbillon with two barrel springs arranged in a “volte-face” position. This outstanding piece comes in a 40mm case of grade-5, polished and satinated titanium. This work of art is the embodiment of human genius through time, connecting a mechanism that is over 200 years old to the microprocessors that are shaping the future.
Case: Grade 5 titanium — Polished and satin-brushed — Openworked lugs — Box-type sapphire crystal — Anti-reflect coating on both sides
Dial: Unique dial cut from a microelectronic silicon wafer — Mesmerising visual experience — Wafer surface iridescence and microelectronic circuits produces multicoloured reflections — Microcircuits create a dynamic graphic design — Cut using laser technology
Caliber: Flying tourbillon with off-centre cage at 6 o’clock — Hand-wound mechanism with “volte-face” double barrel arrangement — 28,800 vibrations per hour — 26 rubies — Power reserve: 96 hours
Bracelet: Preformed rubber — Triple-blade folding clasp, steel with black PVD finish, fine adjustment, curved “Fleur de Lys”
Dimensions: Diameter 40.7mm. Thickness 15.12mm
Specificities: Dial cut from a microelectronic silicon wafer — Innovative material linked with technological advances, notably in medicine — The colors of life, the colors of Only Watch — A world of colours in a watch that change according to the angle of vision — Flying tourbillon with off-centre cage at 6 o’clock
Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 120,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/louis-moinet
For the 10th anniversary of Only Watch, Louis Vuitton celebrates the push towards a better future with the Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023. A dial of remarkable craftsmanship, incorporating the techniques of micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel, depicts the likeness of Albert Einstein in one of his most notorious photographic and mischievous portraits, sticking his tongue out in an unexpected moment of levity.
Case: Stainless steel case — Stainless steel crown and push-piece hand engraved by Dick Steenman — Open case back with specific engraving “Only Watch 2023” and “N°1/1”
Dial: 18K white gold hand engravings by Dick Steenman — Enamel dial, using miniature and grisaille handmade technics, by Nicolas Doublel
Caliber: LV 525 caliber: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton — Automata mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve indicator — 18K white gold minute hand in the shape of an atom set with one diamond — 426 components — Power reserve: 100 hours — 21,600 vibrations/hour — 50 jewels
Bracelet: Black alligator strap
Dimensions: Diameter 46.8mm Thickness: 14.4mm
Specificities: With an engraved steel hair strand extending from the dial, Einstein’s face is a real work of art thanks to the work of gold engraving and grisaille enamel. This unique timepiece comes to life with an in-house automata mechanical movement.
Estimate: CHF 340,000 – 440,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/louis-vuitton
Watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard teams up with guilloché artist Brittany Nicole Cox to present Upside Down Blue Feather. Featuring a blue dial decorated with an original hand-guilloche pattern depicting flying birds, it offers a unique message of hope, generosity and protection. More than a unique timepiece, Upside Down Blue Feather offers a unique message of hope, generosity and protection, in keeping with the values of Only Watch.Its sapphire-blue fine silver dial is decorated with an eye-catching hand-guilloché pattern depicting birds in flight.
You can learn more about Ludovic Ballouard and Brittany Cox (as well as Philippe Dufour, Max Büsser and Aldis Hodge at https://makingtime.film/)
Case: Material: 950 platinum — Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM) — Sapphire crystal front and display back — Off-centred platinum crown located at half past 2
Dial: Fine silver dial plate — Decorated with a unique hand-guilloché pattern depicting birds in flight — Engine-turned by guilloché artist Brittany Nicole Cox — Coloured sapphire blue via ALD
Caliber: Caliber B01 (in house movement) — Patented jump-hour mechanism, central minutes — Manual winding — Power reserve: 36 hours — Number of jewels: 51 — Number of components: 228 — Balance frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Bracelet: Hand-stitched blue alligator leather strap — B-shaped platinum pin buckle
Dimensions: 41mm x 11mm
Specificities: Blued fine silver dial — Decorated with a unique hand-guilloché pattern depicting birds in flight — Engine-turned by guilloché artist Brittany Nicole Cox — Symbolising hope, resilience, generosity and protection
Estimate: CHF 60,000 – 80,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ludovic-ballouard-brittany-nicole-cox
The Maurice Lacroix Only Watch 2023 is presented in a sapphire case, a first for the Maison. The making of a sapphire crystal case is protracted, necessitating numerous hours of polishing. Measuring 43mm in diameter, this colourless housing affords views of the hand-wound movement within. Only Watch always celebrates colour and this year proves no exception. Inspired by the work of artist Victor Vasarely, participating brands were encouraged to juxtapose shades of blue, red, orange and green. The resultant rainbow-theme enlivens the movement plate. The hours and minutes are shown on an off-centre dial appointed with black indexes, each suffused with Super-LumiNova and presented in a different hue, again repeating the rainbow look.
Case: Sapphire with sapphire bezel and crown — Sapphire open caseback with ONLYWATCH 2023 engraving
Dial: Anthracite sunray dial with black M-logo — Rainbow perimeter on the big disk and black perimeter on the small disk
Caliber: Manual ML330 Skeleton with rainbow plate
Bracelet: Gray nylon strap with black sandblasted M-logo and Easychange system — Stainless steel butterfly buckle with titanium cap
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm Height 11mm
Specificities: 43mm sapphire case, bezel and crown, a first for the Maison — Skeleton movement, the hand-wound Manufacture Calibre ML330 — On the movement, shades of colours are juxtaposed to create a vibrant, rainbow-theme that are referenced with the movement plate.
Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/maurice-lacroix
A unique edition of Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Carbo2 presenting for the very first time at Only Watch an exclusive brand new material, 0 oxygen in the case and an amazing experience together with Montblanc Mark Maker Nimsdai Purja. Zero oxygen inside the case not only eliminates fogging, which can occur with drastic temperature changes at altitude but also prevents oxidization. Without oxygen, all the components last longer and will provide unfaltering precision over time.
Case: The 43mm case comes with a luminous glacier blue outline of Mount Everest on the side that only the wearer can see, fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with the compass cardinal points and “OW” for “Only Watch” depicting West — On the titanium case back, a realistic picture of the world’s highest peak engraved in 3D laser
Dial: Electric blue glacier pattern dial and worldtime meridians with Only Watch’s 2023 rainbow colour theme
Caliber: MB 29.25 automatic movement with Montblanc’s Manufacture worldtime complication, which includes turning Northern and Southern Hemisphere globes, a 24-hour scale, day & night indications, dual time display, and a date.
Bracelet: Black interchangeable textile strap made of 80 % recycled material
Dimensions: Diameter 43.5mm Height 13mm
Specificities: The new case material is created using a pioneering technological development that captures CO2 and mixes it with ultra-light carbon fiber to create an innovative composite watch case: the CARBO2.
Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/montblanc
Tremblage involves a surface being finished by hand using a range of engraving burins. The tools are moved across the metal in a trembling motion, which is also where the name comes from, with the French ‘tremblant’ meaning ‘to tremble’ in English. The challenge in this is to create an even look. It gives rise to a rough but matt effect that dampens the incident light on the dial of the special model and makes the tremblage surface appear beautifully matt.
Case: Three part, stainless steel case
Dial: Hand engraved tremblage dial rhodium-plated — Rough but matt effect that dampens the light — Tremblage surface appears beautifully matt — Raised elements of the dial finely brush finished
Caliber: Caliber 100.1
Bracelet: Hand-sewn — Brown kudu leather — Prong buckle in stainless steel
Dimensions: Diameter 41mm Height 11.35mm
Specificities: Hand engraved tremblage dial rhodium-plated — Raised elements of the dial finely brush finished — Hand wound calibre 100.1 bears the M. Grossmann signature in cursive script hand engraved
Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 45,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/moritz-grossmann
On the occasion of the 85th birthday of Philippe Stern in November, Patek Philippe Honorary President, Thierry Stern, President of the Geneva manufacture, has chosen to pay tribute to his father by creating an exclusive limited-edition wristwatch with his favorite grand complication, which will feature an entirely new movement. This movement, designed and produced exclusively for this tribute watch, will never be used again.
“This is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favor of Patek Philippe”.
The first timepiece of this 30-piece limited edition, produced in a unique Only Watch design version.
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/patek-philippe
Especially crafted for the occasion by Perrelet, this timepiece is a one-of-a-kind piece, named “Turbine Chrono x Only Watch”. This exclusive chronograph, developed by Perrelet, adopts an outstanding new design whose details stand out in a bright light blue hue, one of the official colors of the auction. This timepiece is featuring a unique and distinctive display for measuring short time intervals, which perfectly blends the Turbine’s eye-catching design with an easy-to-read chronograph function. Instead of the conventional two or three chrono counters, this display boasts a single central counter in the form of a rotating sapphire crystal disc that allows the minutes to be recorded.
Case: Titanium casebody with brushed finishing — Bezel and chrono pushers in stainless steel with black PVD
Dial: 60-minute chrono counter in the form of a sapphire crystal rotating disc —12 black anodized aluminum blades — Lower dial depicting the turbine blades in bright light blue alternating with anthracite grey
Caliber: Automatic movement Caliber P-361 with Chronograph function — Power reserve: 42 hours
Bracelet: Black fabric strap with rubber lining and light blue stitching — Extra black rubber strap
Dimensions: Diameter 45mm Thickness 16.04mm
Specificities: Titanium case — Turbine of 12 black anodized aluminum blades on a ball bearing system — Chronograph with 60-minute chrono counter in the form of a sapphire crystal rotating disc
Estimate: CHF 15,000 – 20,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/perrelet
The movement takes Petermann Bédat’s design language by their swan-neck regulator system while Auffret Paris’s aesthetic codes are seen on the click system and the charbonnage at the surface of the bridges. The dial is crafted from flame-whitened solid silver, engraved, and adorned with rose gold indexes. The hour and minute hands are made of rose gold, while the seconds hand is flame-blued steel. The stainless-steel case reflects Petermann Bédat’s visual identity. The three-hand chronometer movement, which is based on a Zenith 135, was reimagined by the watchmakers, incorporating new aesthetics for the bridges.
Case: Steel case with soldered, stepped lugs
Dial: Flame-whitened solid silver dial with black lacquered engraving — Rose gold indexes, hour and minutes hands — Flame-blued steel second hand
Caliber: 3 hands chronometer based on a Zenith 135 — German silver mainplate and bridges — Breguet coil balance spring — Diameter: 30mm — Power reserve: 40 hours — Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Bracelet: Steel pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 38.3mm Thickness 10.8mm
Specificities: 3 hands chronometer
Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 100,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/petermann-bedat-auffret-paris
When you hear “jet set” and “Côte d’Azur”, Monaco springs to mind. The watch is a creative brightly colored Piaget Polo Skeleton arty edition, both artistically technical and coolly chic. Its design pays homage to the “Hexa Grace” artwork by Victor Vasarely, which is exhibited in Monaco.
Case: 18K pink gold case — Cushion shape — Sapphire case back
Dial: Blue flange with hours and minutes markers — Piaget logo
Caliber: 2.4mm high — 1200S1 ultra-thin Manufacture skeleton caliber — Self-winding — 44-hour power reserve — 21,600 vibrations/hour — 3Hz
Bracelet: Interchangeable blue calf leather strap with green stitches — Additional blue calf leather strap with blue stitches — 18K Pink gold folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 42mm Thickness: 6.5mm
Specificities: 18K Pink gold case — 42mm — 6.5mm ultra-thin case — 2.4mm 1200S1 ultra-thin self-winding skeleton caliber — Coloured plates and bridges — Calf interchangeable strap
Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 80,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/piaget
The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon is a new Reservoir x Télôs watch co-creation: this uniquely crafted piece is unveiled exclusively for Only Watch 2023, combining creative vintage display – 240° retrograde minute and jumping hour – with renowned high-watchmaking savoir-faire from Switzerland.
Dial: White enamel “Grand Feu” dial
Caliber: Retrograde minutes and jumping hours, regulator style — Double barrel mechanical movement, automatic winding, 437 components, 46 jewels — Grand Tourbillon at 6 o’clock — Variable-inertia balance wheel with fixed balance-spring stud — Power reserve: 60 hours — Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) — Swiss Made
Bracelet: Blue alligator leather strap
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm
Specificities: 43mm bronze case, white enamel, blue dial — Retrograde minute and jumping hour in regulator mode — Self-winding mechanical movement with double barrel, 437-pieces and 46-stones — Large tourbillon at 6 o’clock — Blue alligator leather strap
Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 60,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/reservoir-telos-watch
For more information on all of the watches in the 2023 Only Watch charity auction, please visit www.onlywatch.com/2023collection
Which watches are your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.
You can check out Lots 1 – 32 at Only Watch 2023: Lots 1 – 16 and Only Watch 2023: Lots 17 – 32, Including My Favorite Watch of Them All
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