Only Watch 2023 Lots 49 – 62: Including the Wildest Story (Richard Mille) and a Light Sabre Clock (Urwerk)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.

In this last of the four-part series, we look at Only Watch 2023 Lots 49-62. While there are many fantastic watches here, I particularly like the imaginative story of Lot 51, the Richard MilleTalisman Origine and the space-age design of Lot 60, the Urwerk Space-Time Blade.

Only Watch 2023 Lots 49-62

Lot 49. Ressence: Type 12 OW23

The Ressence TYPE 12 Square Only Watch 2023 captures the essence of disorder and victory, with a unique DNA-inspired dial symbolising the pursuit of a cure. the dial features a blue painted DNA chain on a silver background.

The unique visual representation, combined with Ressence’s signature revolving discs, forms a two-dimensional dial design that delicately portrays the disorder and hope intertwined with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The TYPE 12 OW23 watch incorporates a weekly revelation. Every Sunday at midnight, when all the discs align, the dial reveals a well-aligned DNA chain, a moment that represents the hope for a cure and the progress of research.

Ressence: Type 12 OW23

Case: Polished grade 5 titanium — Double-domed sapphire crystal top with anti-reflective coating inside — Manual winding and set up via lever — Splash-resistance
Dial: Convex German silver dial with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4.75° (seconds and day of the week) — Hand-painted dial design — Engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova
Caliber: Patented ROCS 1.3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – module driven by the minute axle of a customized 2892 base caliber — Caseback winding and day/time setting — Self-winding — Power reserve: 36 hours — 28,800 vibrations/hour — 40 jewels — 27 gears
Bracelet: Ardillon buckle — Blue calf leather strap (20/20mm) — Red lining with green or light blue edging
Dimensions: Diameter 41mm Thickness 11mm
Specificities: One-of-a-kind TYPE 12 — Unique DNA chain design — Blue hand-painted dial — Simplified indexes — Augmented symbolic time reading experience

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ressence

Lot 50. Rexhep Rexhepi: Chronomètre Antimagnétique

The Chronomètre Antimagnétique is protected from magnetism by a Faraday cage surrounding the hand-finished movement. The dial of the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is inspired by the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers.

The design is also a subtle nod to the watch’s purpose: the alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field. It features one of the rare metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique (you will have to use your imagination)

Case: A water resistant stainless steel case — One of the rare few metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop
Dial: Inspiration from the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers — The alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field.
Caliber: An original movement: easily distinguished by its brand-new layout and functions — With its symmetry and perfect finish, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique calibre is instantly recognisable as a Rexhep Rexhepi movement.
Bracelet: Leather strap — Steel pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 38mm x height 9.90mm without glass
Specificities: The case back is actually an external screw-down case back that can be unscrewed by the wearer to reveal a second sapphire case back. This double case back construction protects the movement from magnetism, while allowing the beauty of the movement to be admired.

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 150,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/rexhep-rexhepi

Lot 51. Richard Mille: Talisman Origine

A millennia ago (or more accurately, once upon a time), in a long-since vanished society where mechanics, craftsmanship and spirituality were united, this fascinating object emerged.

Discovered in the heart of the Swiss mountains, this pendant was imprisoned for an eternity in its wooden receptacle. Nicknamed “Talisman Origine” by the research teams, this mysterious golden relic certainly encapsulated the know-how of an old Swiss tribe.

Richard Mille Talisman Origine

Case: Bezels and caseback: In satin-finished red gold. Hand-polished rims. Hand-engraved symbols — Caseband: In grade 5 titanium — Claws: In grade 5 titanium, polished and microblasted with swiss rhodonite inserts
Caliber: Caliber CRMT5 — In-house skeletonised automatic-winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes — Baseplate and bridges made of 3N and 5N gold — Free sprung balance with variable inertia — Variable-geometry rotor
Bracelet: Necklace made of swiss briarwood, gold, titanium and rhodonite — Threaded on a metal and rubber string
Dimensions: 46.77 x 77.25 x 13.10mm
Specificities: The RMS14 goes beyond the concept of a watch — This unique piece is the essence of Swiss culture — Its case and necklace are fully hand-engraved and integrates rhodonite and wooden parts

Estimate: CHF 600,000 – 800,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/richard-mille

Lot 52. Singer Reimagined x Genus: 8-Track

Ingenious, unexpected, and clever, the 8-Track Watch is the horological embodiment of technical excellence and childhood fun. The 8-Track Watch for Only Watch is the crossroads of time keeping passion and automotive dreams brought to life.

The 8-Track Watch is a fusion of ideas, passions, mechanics and two independent watch brands: a watch with a Singer aesthetic in a case inspired by the iconic watches of the 60s and 70s, with a deep connection to the world of motorsports; the perfect setting for the exceptional mechanics of the display complication invented by Genus.

Singer Reimagined x Genus 8-Track

Case: Material: Steel — Crystals: Sapphire with antireflective coating — Crown: Steel, position at 4 o’clock — Water-resistant to approximately 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial: No dial. A display complication: Hours: Peripheral disc. Tens-of-minutes: Free-moving race car element hand scuplted of 18K gold circulating between two foci. Numerals & indicators: Super-LumiNova
Caliber: GxS-23-Ru, manual winding, crafted in the Genus’ Geneva workshop — Material: Brass mainplate and bridges — Components: 390 — Rubies: 26 — Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5Hz) — Power reserve: ~50 hours — Regulating organ: Swiss anchor escapement, variable inertia balance.
Bracelet: Leather: Smooth dark brown calf strap, perforated “racecar driver” style — Buckle: Steel, fold-over 2-part clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm Thickness 15.46mm
Specificities: Singer signature design fusion with Genus in-house Haute Horlogerie movement & innovative display complication — Hand-crafted 18K gold car micro-sculpture moving on an infinity 8-shaped track — Peripheral hours indication — Crown at 4 o’clock

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 120,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/singer-reimagined-genus

Lot 53. Speake-Marin: Ripples Bleu Royal

The Ripples Bleu Royal watch serves as a radiant tribute to hope, with its distinct and characteristic Speake Marin blue achieved through the meticulous process of blue physical vapor deposition (PVD) with a galvanic underlayer.

The watch showcases a deeper shade of blue, artfully highlighting the placement of the small seconds subdial at 1.30 and creating a captivating interplay of subtle illumination.

Speake-Marin Ripples Bleu Royal

Case: “La City” case in stainless-steel — Front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating — The bezel is vertically brushed
Dial: Royal Blue Speake Marin dial with «Ripples» finishing and polished indexes — Royal Blue Speake Marin small second counter at 1.30 — Heart-shaped rhodium-plated hands
Caliber: Caliber SMA03-T20 is developed, produced and assembled by “Le Cercle des Horlogers” workshop in Switzerland. Hand-finished bridges, inner angles, rhodium plated, Geneva stripes — Power reserve: 52 hours — Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour – 4Hz — Jewels: 31 — Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Caliber: Caliber SMA03-T20 is developed, produced and assembled by “Le Cercle des Horlogers” workshop in Switzerland. Hand-finished bridges, inner angles, rhodium plated, Geneva stripes — Power reserve: 52 hours — Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour – 4Hz — Jewels: 31 — Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Bracelet: Strap: Integrated stainless-steel bracelet — Buckle: Stainless-steel folding buckle — The Speake Marin logo is engraved on the clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 40.3mm Thickness 9.2mm
Specificities: The Ripples Bleu rRyal timepiece is 100% made in Switzerland. It was designed by the talented Stéphane Lacroix. — Royal Speake Marin blue dial with “Ripples” finishing and polished indexes — A deep blue to reveal the small second counter at 1.30 — Movement: SMA03-T20 automatic movement with fully integrated micro-rotor —‘The Only Watch 2023, unique piece” is hand engraved and masterfully executed by Boris Nemitz.

Estimate: CHF 35,000 – 65,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/speake-marin

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Lot 54. Sylvain Pinaud: Origine Only Watch

Specially designed and handmade for Only Watch in Sylvain Pinaud’s atelier, this Unique Origine reflects the watchmaker’s philosophy. It pays tribute to the finest achievements of the art of watchmaking.

For the first time, the two-tone dial is guilloched with a personal and contemporary pattern. The complex, multi-layered dial, plays on contrasts and an extraordinary finish to offer perfect readability. To make this creation unique, special attention was paid to the different shades of blue that blend in the piece.

Sylvain Pinaud Origine Only Watch

Case: Stainless steel
Dial: Light blue / Silver two-tone guilloché dial
Caliber: Hand-winding mechanical movement — Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour — 22 jewels — Power reserve: 55 hours — In-house escapement and balance wheel with variable inertia — Balance diameter: 13.2mm with Phillips spiral
Bracelet: Leather with pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 40mm Thickness 11mm with crystal
Specificities: This timepiece for Only Watch is first and only unique with this combination of blue color and guillochage — Steel case — Light blue / Silver two-tone guilloché dial — Traditionally flame-blued elements

Estimate: CHF 70,000 – 100,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/sylvain-pinaud

Lot 55.TAG Heuer: Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch

The very first mechanical split seconds chronograph wristwatch for TAG Heuer debuting a brand-new movement and presenting a revolutionary design direction.

The new case design for the Monaco takes direct inspiration from the original model launched in 1969, but throughly updating the aesthetic utilizing the avant-garde mindset of the maison today. Contained in the texturised titanium and sapphire exterior is the brand-new TAG Heuer Calibre TH81-00 automatic split-seconds chronograph movement.

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch

Case: Texturised titanium — A new material specifically crafted in the TAG Heuer Institute for the project — Massive sapphire caseback and crystal — Titanium crown and pushers
Dial: Sapphire dial — Applied Super-LumiNova block hour makers — Subsidiary dials suspended on titanium bridges
Caliber: TAG Heuer Caliber TH81-00 — Automatic split-seconds chronograph — Power reserve: 65 hours — Crafted in titanium
Bracelet: Handmade calf skin — Contrasting red stitched accents — Titanium double deployant clasp
Dimensions: Width: 41mm Thickness: 15.2mm
Specificities: The first mechanical split second chronograph wristwatch for TAG Heuer — No expense spared savoir-faire tour de force — An incredible effort by some of the greatest names in watchmaking

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 300,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/tag-heuer

Lot 56. Tiffany & Co.: Bird on a Rock Mechanical Pendant Only Watch

This unique and historic pendant watch honors Tiffany’s longstanding horological heritage as it reimagines one of the House’s most emblematic creations – the Bird on a Rock brooch. Handcrafted by Tiffany & Co. artisans in Switzerland, the Bird on a Rock mechanical pendant watch re-envisions Jean Schlumberger’s iconic brooch that he created for Tiffany & Co. in 1965.

For this innovative Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co.™ pendant watch design, the bird is repositioned in a front-facing stance as it perches atop the case. Cut and polished to an exacting standard over the span of 80 hours, the case features a faceted aquamarine crystal of over 34 carats, secured by four 18K yellow gold prongs, that sits atop a dial with 461 snow-set diamonds of over 1 total carat.

Tiffany Bird on a Rock Mechanical Pendant Only Watch

Case: 18K yellow gold case topped with a faceted aquamarine of over 34 carats — Platinum and 18k yellow gold Bird on a Rock set with over 3 carats of round brilliant diamonds featuring pink sapphire eyes — 18K yellow gold crown set with nine round brilliant diamonds — Caseback with a special engraving of “Only Watch. Unique Piece. 2023”
Dial: Snow-set dial with 461 round brilliant diamonds of over 1 total carat
Caliber: Manual winding mechanical movement — LTM2000 — Hour and minute display — Power reserve: 38 hours — 21 jewels
Bracelet: 18K yellow gold 50cm chain with diamond pave accents — The chain is set with 81 round brilliant diamonds totaling 0.65 carat
Dimensions: Width: 27mm Length: 27mm Height: 11.6mm
Specificities: Created especially for Only Watch — 18K — Manual winding mechanical movement — 34 carat faceted aquamarine crystal — Snow-set diamond dial — Gold and diamond chain — Platinum and 18K diamond Bird on a Rock motif

Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 500,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/tiffany

Lot 57. Trilobe: Réconciliation

Inspired by the Japanese art Kintsugi, “Réconciliation” by Trilobe embodies the philosophy of embracing life’s imperfections. The timepiece reveals the beauty hidden behind the flaws by gilding its cracks with gold leaves. This piece was inspired from the Japanese art of Kintsugi (金継ぎ), which consists in repairing broken objects with gold. A profoundly inspiring philosophy: Kintsugi considers that scars carry stories that deserve to be valued.

The story of this piece thus transcends physical mechanics and plunges its readers into the realm of philosophical contemplation. With its exposed fractures, this timepiece bears witness to the passage of time.

Trilobe Réconciliation

Case: Grade 5 titanium case coated with black PVD — Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments — Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered anti-reflective treatment (ARDUR) — Anti-reflective sapphire back — Water-resistance tested to 5 bar (≈ 50 meters)
Dial: Titanium rings colorized by PVD — Pad printed numerals — Gold leaves
Caliber: X-Centric caliber — Automatic movement with micro-rotor — Power reserve: 48 hours
Bracelet: Alligator leather — Titanium pin buckle coated with black PVD
Dimensions: Diameter 40.5mm Thickness (with crystal) 17.8mm
Specificities: Impact marks on the rings, plate and bridges gilded by hand with gold leaves — Hammered effect finish on the bridges, the plate, and the symbolic rings handmade by a craftsman watchmaker

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/trilobe

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Lot 58. Tudor: Prince Chronograph One

Tudor is celebrating a classic chronograph from the ‘70s in a charming, modern way. For the first time, a brand-new prototype Manufacture Chronograph Calibre, fully developed from the ground up by Tudor, is being presented in a unique 18K solid yellow gold interpretation of a Tudor classic, the “Big Block” Chronograph.

Tudor watches are all about value, reliability, and robustness, which often means watches in materials such as stainless steel or titanium. For Only Watch, however, Tudor dared to break the rules with an entirely new 18K yellow gold case that heralds the return of the legendary “Big Block” Chronograph, the first Tudor automatic chronograph, released in 1976.

Tudor Prince Chronograph One

Case: 42mm 18K solid yellow gold case — 18K yellow gold solid caseback — 18K yellow gold bezel with aluminum insert — 18K yellow gold screw-down pushers
Dial: A unique black dial with sunken gold registers — “Prince Chronograph” printed above the six o’clock register — 18K yellow gold hour markers and hands
Caliber: Prototype column-wheel Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT59XX — Tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch — Silicon Hairspring — Power reserve: 70 hours
Bracelet:18K three-link yellow gold bracelet — TUDOR “T-fit” clasp in 18K yellow gold
Dimensions: Diameter 42mm
Specificities: 42mm 18K yellow gold case, caseback and bracelet — Prototype column-wheel Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT59XX — A unique black lacquered dial with sunken gold registers. “Prince Chronograph” is printed above the six o’clock register — Rebirth of a popular classic Tudor Chronograph

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/tudor

Lot 59. Ulysse Nardin: Freak S Only Watch

Freak S Only Watch is a one and unique iteration of the Freak S launched in 2022. In order to celebrate the anniversary of Only Watch, the Ulysse Nardin manufacture and design studio have created a colorful interpretation of the UN-251 caliber based on the rainbow color pallet.

The micromechanical machinery featured in the Freak S is a carrousel, with no hands, no dial, and no crown. The Freak S indicates the time thanks to the rotation of its own movement. Two bridges rotate around its center. They respectively indicate the hours and minutes. An arrow shows the hours while the nose cone of the spaceship indicates the minutes.

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Only Watch

Case: Black ceramic upper case — Black DLC titanium case, bezel, side plates and locker — Black DLC titanium open sapphire case back — “1/1” plate on the right side of the case (in place of the crown) — “Only Watch” plate on the left side of the case — Water-resistant to 30 meters
Dial: Hour disc engraved with a black sunray pattern
Caliber: Caliber UN-251 Manufacture — Automatic movement — Hours, minutes — Flying carrousel movement rotating around its own axis and indicating time — Double oscillator in silicon — Double escapement in DiamonSil — Vertical differential system (69 components) — “Grinder” automatic winding system — 373 components — 33 jewels
Bracelet: Blue “ballistic” rubber strap — Black alligator strap with rainbow colored stitching (included in addition) — Black ceramic and black DLC titanium self-deploying buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 45mm Height 13.66mm
Specificities: Freak S Only Watch is a one and unique iteration of the Freak S launched in 2022. In order to celebrate the anniversary of Only Watch, the Ulysse Nardin manufacture and design studio have created a colorful interpretation of the UN-251 caliber based on the rainbow color pallet.

Estimate: CHF 160,000 – 200,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ulysse-nardin

Lot 60. Urwerk: Space-Time Blade

Urwerk embarks on a new groundbreaking journey, redefining the very essence of time through a fresh and captivating approach. To materialize this extraordinary vision, the expertise of talented craftsman Dalibor Farny has been enlisted. Science-Fiction and Time telling meet in a glowing magic.

Let the digits of light guide you through the Spacetime continuum, as this remarkable glass column illuminates not only the hours, minutes, and seconds but also kilometers depicting our smooth Earth travel.

Urwerk Space-Time Blade

Case: Glass capsule set on a bronze pedestal
Caliber: Urwerk concept
Dimensions: 167cm x 20cm
Specificities: Space-Time blade encapsulated into a glass structure — Time indication: hour, minute, second — Earth spinning indication: kilometers

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 80,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/urwerk

Lot 61. Voutilainen: CSW Only Watch

Voutilainen CSW Only Watch has in house movement, world timer mechanism is totally integrated. New cushion case shape is totally new in Voutilainen, elegant case is made from titanium. Voutilainen CSW Only Watch has fully integrated world timer mechanism.

It is easy to use; by pressing the crown direction to case band, time zone is changing one hour at once. The sparkling green color dial is engine turned by hand. Dial is made from solid silver.

Voutilainen CSW Only Watch

Case: Cushion shape, titanium case with 4 screws on the top and 4 on the back
Dial: Silver dial with engine turning decoration, center “trivague” and under hours “24 division sun burst”
Caliber: TMZ217. Indication of the another time zone with city and 24 hours disk in circumference — Quick correction by pressing the crown — Frequences: 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5Hz) — Number of movement components: 272 — Number of jewels: 44 — Power reserve: 60 hours
Bracelet: Calf leather strap — Titanium tang buckle
Dimensions: 39mm x 39mm Height 12mm
Specificities: The first cushion shape model watch made by Voutilainen.

Estimate: CHF 175,000 – 215,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/voutilainen

Lot 62. Zenith: Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set

Chronomaster Sport box set of 4 references featuring yellow, green, blue and red ceramic bezels and coloured dials matching the official colours of Only Watch 2023. The watches are equipped with the automatic El Primero chronograph with 1/10th of a second measurement.

Made for Only Watch 2023, Zenith presents the unique Chronomaster Sport boxset of 4 references, featuring yellow, green, blue and red ceramic bezels and unique color-matched lacquered dials for the first time ever.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set

Case: Stainless steel case and colored ceramic bezel
Dial: Lacquered in 4 different colors (blue, green, red, yellow)
Caliber: El Primero 3600 — Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph — Measures and displays 1/10th of a second
Bracelet: Metal bracelet and double folding clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 41mm Thickness 13.6mm
Specificities: Stainless steel case and ceramic bezel (Red and Yellow ceramic bezels are a first for Zenith) — Unique match colored dials with ceramic bezels, first time ever — Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph — Measures & displays 1/10th of a second — Increased power reserve of 60 hours — Date indication at 4.30 — Stop-second mechanism

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 55,000
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/zenith

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For more information on all of the watches in the 2023 Only Watch charity auction, please visit www.onlywatch.com/2023collection

Which watches are your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.

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