IWC Ingenieur 2023: Mixed Emotions, I was Hoping for Better
by Martin Green
As a watch journalist, one must balance passion with objectivity when evaluating timepieces. Despite being considered obsolete luxury items by many, the emotional appeal of mechanical watches has ensured their continued relevance.
While technical aspects should be evaluated, it is rare for high-end brands to produce watches that don’t meet these standards.
However, when a journalist feels passionate about a particular brand, it can lead to heightened objectivity and a sense of ownership, resulting in perhaps overly high expectations for the brand’s performance and innovation.
One brand that holds this status for me is IWC. At Watches & Wonders, I always make a point to visit the IWC booth as it is often features one of the most impressive displays in the foyer. This year, their big launch was the new Ingenieur.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 with black dial
Upon seeing a new watch, I typically experience a range of emotions, from excitement to sheer awe. However, when I first saw the new Ingenieur, I was surprised that it didn’t elicit any emotion from me. Nada.
Although it is not an unattractive or poorly-made watch, it lacked any unique or stand-out qualities to distinguish it as the next chapter in IWC’s collection.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 with green dial
Genta Stardust
One of the highlights that IWC promoted was the Ingenieur’s connection to renowned designer Gérald Genta, whose designs have become increasingly popular in recent years. Even a decade after his passing, many enthusiasts view watches bearing Genta’s name as something extra special, similar to the iconic Pininfarina design on a Ferrari.
Any brand that commissioned a design from him in the past is sitting on a potential goldmine. This includes, first and foremost, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. The Royal Oak and the Nautilus are the most famous Genta designs, which credit both the designer and the two brands for maintaining these iconic timepieces’ familiar faces despite changing trends.
IWC Ingenieur Reference 666
The Ingenieur already had a notable track record before Genta designed his version. Introduced around 1955, the reference 666, a sports watch back then, would now be considered a dress watch. Almost two decades later, Genta reshaped the Ingenieur, creating the Reference 1832, nicknamed ‘Jumbo’ due to its enormous 40mm diameter at the time.
IWC Ingenieur Reference 3521 (image courtesy Sothebys)
Genta deserves credit for ushering the Ingenieur into a new era, as the last one with direct lineage to his pencil, Reference 3521, was discontinued in 2001. The Reference 3227, launched in 2005, was an exceptional successor, taking what was good from the Genta design and tweaking it slightly to meet current tastes.
However, with the introduction of the “Vintage Collection Ingenieur” in 2008, the waters became muddled as these designs drew back to the original Reference 666, offering two flavors of the same thing. IWC then entered an era of oversize designs that highlighted the Ingenieur’s unique features, resulting in a big departure from the original design language.
IWC Ingenieur Reference 3570
The Reference 3570 represented the next generation of Ingenieur, with a modern take on the early years’ design language, making it rather plain. The new Ingenieur is a breath of fresh air, but more like returning to a familiar place after years away. I expected more.
Bracelet of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
The difference between stainless steel and titanium
When handling the new Ingenieurs, I notice a difference between the stainless steel and titanium models. While there is much emphasis on the dial, I find the Reference 3227 equally enticing.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in titanium
The green dial version may be too trendy, but I understand IWC’s need to make a profit. The prices for the Ingenieur also stirred some emotion within me.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 with green dial
The $11,700 price tag for the stainless steel models competes with other tempting IWCs, let alone the $14,700 cost for the titanium version. The titanium model appears more refined in its finishing, feeling noticeably more expensive than its stainless steel counterparts, which it is.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 with white dial
Although I appreciate IWC’s decision to restore the Ingenieur to its rightful state, I hesitate to embrace this new model because I expected more. Currently, it appears to be riding too much on the wave of “Genta-designed/nesque sports watches with integrated bracelets (and green dials).” Adding the “0” before all the single dates also feels gimmicky, rather than offering a full big date feature.
Despite anticipated demand at this price point, I think I need more time to fully digest this new Ingenieur. To be continued.
For more information, please visit www.iwc.com/us/en/watches-and-wonders/ingenieur-automatic-40-black.html
Quick Facts IWC Ingenieur
Case: 40 x 14 mm, stainless steel/titanium, 10 ATM water reistance
Movement: automatic IWC Caliber 32111 with 120-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 VpH
Price: $14,600 (titanium), $11,700 (stainless steel)
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