5 Reasons Why Geneva Watch Days is the Show of the Future and a few Stand Out Watches
Open to the general public for 5 days, Geneva Watch Days welcomed 13,800 visitors, an increase of more than 70% over last year.
Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, one of the main organizers, commented: “It’s a source of pride and pleasure to be involved in and witness this initiative, a collaboration that has gone from strength to strength since its inception four years ago. It’s a cultural moment, a unifying gathering and a platform for exchange for the watchmaking industry.
Many if not most brands at Geneva Watch Days exhibited in suites at the Beau Rivage Hotel by the lake
This year, Geneva Watch Days has even moved to German-speaking Switzerland for a day in June to raise their profile.” There are now 52 brands participating, and I predict we’ll be hearing more about Geneva Watch Days in the coming years, as it grows both in size and importance. It’s the future of watch shows. And here’s why:
1. It is not-for-profit. Geneva Watch Days was formed in 2020 by a group of founding exhibitors (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F) who wanted to create a show open to the general public.
It is self-managed, so there is no administrative structure reporting to a board of directors demanding higher profits that can only come from exorbitant fees to exhibitors. That doesn’t mean there are no costs associated with participation, but it does mean there will never be a Baselworld-like standoff between management and exhibitors.
Lakeside across the road from the Beau Rivage Hotel are the big tent (left) featuring a watch exhibition and another building (The Box) where presentations and discussion forums are held
2. It is an actual public event. Typically watch shows and forums have been insider/trade events, even when they purport to be “open to everyone.” Panel discussions are usually presented by and for members of the industry, with the usual suspects moderating the same rotation of speakers, addressing a largely trade audience.
There is nothing wrong with this. I find it quite stimulating and interesting. But bringing those discussions to a truly wider public of watch lovers hungry for inside information and perspectives is a game changer. It lifts the curtain on what can seem like a very closed industry, and gives attendees a taste of some of the glamour and the swagger of the high-end watch world.
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3. New watches debut at the event. Attendees aren’t going to GWD to look at all the watches we in the trade saw in the spring at W&W, or at launches since then – which everyone else has seen by now on social media and online watch sites. They are seeing debuts at the same time as the trade. They can finally be the first to experience the fanfare of a product (or a book) launch and to try on the watches.
There was a palpable excitement among collectors at the show; they were all high on a timepiece-induced dopamine rush that will keep them addicted to watches for years to come.
4. Who are all these kids? This is the young crowd that every marketing director covets and spends millions to reach. The energy is akin to the buzz at a music festival, and it’s not only young collectors, but young watchmakers, designers and dreamers.
I sat at a cocktail table at one reception and was introduced to a young watchmaker and designer who pulled out his iPad and started showing me his renderings. The watch was beautiful, and the movement quite innovative, and perfectly finished. When it finally comes to market – and it will, because he just received his first subscription – I will remember having had the opportunity to see it first, at GWD.
5. The right formula. The show’s timing and venue coalesce to form a happy combination of work, pleasure and luxury in a way that hasn’t happened before, even (especially) in supposedly fun places like Las Vegas. It’s casual and festive because it takes place in late summer – breaks are over but tans, sundresses, shorts and sneakers linger, as does the relaxed mood.
Geneva Watch Days all takes place along a picturesque waterfront at several venues within close proximity (a central pavilion, an adjacent glass-walled structure where forums take place, and across the road at the Beau Rivage, De La Paix, and other very nice hotels, along with several boutiques along the strip, or across the bridge on the Rue du Rhône).
It gets people outside in the fresh air and sunshine and interacting in a casual, less structured setting that is conducive to networking. The traffic along Quai du Montblanc blends in and adds to the energy. The watch industry has basically become part of the busy Quai, and everyone is genuinely invited to the party.
Late summer is exactly the right moment in time to do a show like this, and to consolidate the engagement of a collector community that is young, curious, and approaching peak collecting years. The show organizers should receive a GPHG special award for their endeavor.
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The watches:
Breitling
Breitling introduced three new limited-edition 140th anniversary icons – a Premier, a Chronomat and a Navitimer – all powered by a new in-house movement and Breitling’s first perpetual calendar chronograph, the caliber B19, with a 96-hour power reserve.
Breitling 140th Anniversary Limited Editions
All three editions are 18k gold with black straps. The rotor is engraved with a likeness of Montbrillant, Breitling’s historic manufacture at 3 rue de Montbrillant in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
For good measure, Breitling also launched a new book, “140 Years In 140 Stories,” a refreshing twist on the corporate history tome, told in in a series of anecdotes rather than one long chronology. (Yours truly was one of the authors).
For more information, please visit https://www.breitling.com/
Girard Perregaux
Girard Perregaux’s latest interpretation of one of its most iconic designs, the three-bridge configuration is the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges
Inspired by a GP pocket watch from 1889, the design is engineered so that the bridges serve as the mainplate, supporting the gear train, barrel and escapement, with indexes attached to the case.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges on the wrist
Updates include new twin batons at 12, front and back crystals that are more curved for optimum viewing, a larger crown for better grip, and overall smoother contours.
For good measure, GP added Super-LumiNova to the hands, a nice touch that we’re seeing more and more on dress watches and high complications (see Ming).
Price: $171,000
For more information, please visit www.girard-perregaux.com/row_en/99296-52-3434-5cc.html
Moser x Studio Underd0g
H. Moser & Cie is always up for something fun yet dignified and finished to perfection. Its collaboration with Studio Underd0g is inspired by passion fruit, specifically its purple/red and deep yellow colors, and it includes two pieces: the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie., and the 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit by Studio Underd0g, a monopusher chronograph.
Moser Passi0n Fruit by Studio Underd0g set of two
The Moser piece bears evidence of the brand’s obsession with interesting dials, with a combination of a sunburst purple lacquer and Maracuja grand feu enamel on an 18k yellow gold base with a hammered texture.
Moser Passi0n Fruit by Studio Underd0g boxed set
The Underd0g model has a coarse dégradé amber and royal purple multilayer dial. Each is an edition of 100 pieces.
Price: 59,000 Swiss francs
For more information, please visithttps://h-moser.com/product/hmc-studio-underd0g-1800-1200/
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Ming
Ming’s 18k red gold 20.01 Series 3 is an interesting interpretation of the chronograph, with a disruptive dial that lights up like a space ship. The movement is the manual-wound AgenGraphe by Agenhor, a central chronograph that totalizes seconds and minutes on outer registers rather than in subdials.
Ming 20.01 Series 3 chronograph on the wrist
The dial is a wild construction of borosilicate with 600 small cavities arranged in a radially symmetric circular pattern, over both horizontal and vertical planes and individually hand-filled using syringes with liquid Super-LumiNova.
Ming 20.01 Series 3 chronograph lume shot
The result is a spectacular blue light show in the dark.
Price: 43,500 Swiss francs
Further reading: Ming 20.01 Series 3 Chronograph with Sensational Borosilicate Dial
For more information, please visit www.ming.watch/products/ming-20-01-series-3
Bulgari
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
Bulgari launched a slew of new models at GWD, including a trio of complex minute repeaters: the four-gong Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie, which plays a tune composed by Lorenzo Viotti; the three-gong Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon; and the two-gong Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, with an elegantly openworked, black dial plate.
Bulgari Aluminium GMT X Fender
The Bulgari Aluminum GMT x Fender is a collab celebrating the Fender Stratocaster guitar, celebrating its 70th anniversary.
Finally, there was the spectacular gemset Serpenti Pallini High Jewellery, with the Piccolissimo caliber, set with paillons or beads of gold en tremblant, which means they vibrate when the wearer moves, in keeping with the musical theme.
Price: 4,600 euros
For more information, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/automatic-watches/bvlgari-aluminium-x-fender-watch-aluminium-titanium-104117
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Chronograph is a refreshing break from the exuberance of contemporary designs and color explosions. It’s a classic black-and-white, two-register chrono with a large yet somehow unobtrusive date window at 6 o’clock.
Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph
The galvanic silver dial creates the same optical effect that cinema screens once achieved by means of a thin coat of silver paint: the surface reduces the dispersion of light to a minimum and enables greater contrast than a white background.
There is also substance: the caliber 37-23 has a silicon balance and a 70 hour power reserve, and the watch can dive to 300 meters.
Price: 13,800 Swiss francs
For more information, please visit www.glashuette-original.com/en/watches/spezialist/seaq-chronograph-1-37-23-02-81-36/
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Speake-Marin
The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton debuts a new in-house movement for the brand. The culmination of several years of development, the SMA07 is a speed demon: it runs at a high frequency of 36,000 vph or 5 Hz, with accuracy of within -/+ 5 seconds per day. It drives hours, minutes and Speake Marin’s customary small seconds positioned at 1:30.
Speake-Marin Ripples Skeleton
The SMA 07 is also small, with a fully integrated tungsten micro-rotor. All 182 components of the movement occupy a space of 35.75 mm diameter x 3.25 mm thickness. In the case, it is 40.3 mm and a mere 6.30 mm thick, compared to cases in SM’s current collection of 9.20 mm thick.
Price: 29,900 Swiss francs
For more information, please visit https://speake-marin.com/watch/ripples-skeleton-new-2/
Doxa
One of Doxa’s key GWD debuts is the Sub 300T Professional Aristera limited edition, the brand’s first lefty watch. “Aristera” is Greek for “left” (and by the way, Doxa is Greek for glory). (It’s a German brand). The big steel 42.5 x 14mm case is big, but the case shape, which is slightly oval, softens the bulk and adds an interesting aesthetic flair.
Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera
It has an aluminum bezel insert, a helium escape valve and a 1,200-meter depth rating. It’s a 300-piece edition, and likely to become a collector’s item, even among non-left Doxa-ites or dive watch aficionados.
Price: 2,490 euros
For more information, please visit https://eu.doxawatches.com/collections/sub-300t-aristera
You might also enjoy:
Ming 20.01 Series 3 Chronograph with Sensational Borosilicate Dial
Girard-Perregaux Laureato: An Underappreciated Royal Oak Alternative?
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra: Seemingly Both Impossibly Thin and Impossibly Deep
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