In my decades of visiting the now defunct Baselworld, it was a full-time challenge trying to see as many new watches as possible in the limited time available. Jewelry wasn’t on my radar at all and I had little appreciate or interest in anything that’s first purpose wasn’t to tell the time.

But when visiting the Bulgari booth to view the watches, inevitability the jewelry would come out and the first – and since, every – time I saw and handled the Serpentis I was blown away. The shapes, quality, sensuality, and tacticity, were all sensational.

I’m a closet Bulgari Serpenti fanboy, and when I saw the title in an email announcing the Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti, my first reaction was that MB&F was putting their take on a snake wrapping around the wrist.

I was wrong: MB&F wasn’t doing their version of a Serpenti, Bulgari had designed an MB&F Serpenti. And it looks fantastic! The shape of the watch case is the shape of the serpent’s head.

From the press release:

MB&F and Bulgari are worlds apart, and yet they share an unexpected connection  that gives birth to one-of-a-kind creations that challenge horological conventions.

Founded in 1884, Bvlgari is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs and rich heritage, combining Italian elegance with Swiss precision – materialised in iconic collections such as Serpenti, Octo Finissimo and Bvlgari Bvlgari.

MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has redefined traditional watchmaking since 2005 by creating three-dimensional kinetic sculptures for the wrist: Horological Machines that are brought to life through collaboration with the brand’s “Friends” and are inspired by themes as diverse as science fiction, supercars and the animal kingdom.

Bvlgari x MB&F: not their first collaboration

In 2021, sparked by a chance encounter a few years earlier between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, the two brands released a first collaboration: the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra.

This collaboration brought the exuberant, colourful world of Bvlgari jewellery into MB&F’s Legacy Machines. After the success of that collaboration, the two friends naturally wondered, what next?

For this second collaboration, Fabrizio and Max chose to reinterpret one of Bvlgari’s most famous historical creations – Serpenti, which first appeared in Bvlgari’s creations in 1948 – bringing it into the very mechanical universe of MB&F haute-horlogerie. Combining the vision and expertise of these two creative forces, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti slithered into being…

Reimagining Serpenti – an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis – into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti represents a unique creation, born from an inspired encounter and a shared vision, where calibre and design seamlessly enhance one another.

An intense design process

According to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the design aspects “were a pleasure to create”, perhaps giving the impression that this part of the process was relatively easy – but the hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models attest otherwise.

Contrary to a classic round case, which offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti could not be more complicated. Like an automobile, the view is radically different depending on whether you admire it from the front, the side, the top, the back… and all those views must be equally satisfying.

Like a carefully-balanced equation with multiple variables, any adjustment to a particular angle or curve, although improving a certain view, can potentially destroy another. This resulted in countless iterations of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti design.

Challenging case manufacturing

Once perfected aesthetically, the design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti case is all about curves, combined together to create a machining nightmare.

The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear section – all treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement.

This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.

“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling. Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement,” shares Maximilian Büsser. “The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters”.

A complex movement that breaks horological conventions

Inside the complex case, an equally complex movement that breaks all traditional watchmaking conventions, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. From the beginning, one of Fabrizio’s central ideas was to bring Serpenti to (mechanical) life by animating its eyes; this has been materialized as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes.

The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminum to make them as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with hand-applied Super-LumiNova, so that when darkness falls, the luminous gaze of the snake’s eyes persists.

The mechanical reptile’s brain is symbolised by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz (18,000bph). It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.

Flipping the Machine over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the hand-finished movement. MB&F is one of the few remaining brands to uphold artisanal manufacturing processes and to finish components by hand; an approach only possible when crafting a very limited number of watches per year (just under 400 in 2024).

The watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month; the 99 pieces will require over a year to deliver.

Watchmaking experts who have been following MB&F will recognise some of the unconventional features of the movement. These are the result of expertise patiently developed across the more than 20 calibres created by MB&F since 2005 – in particular the manual-winding HM10 movement, although significant modifications were required to serve the sleek new Serpenti design.

Automotive touches

In addition to its obvious Serpenti origins, this unique new series reveals another source of inspiration for its two creators. Both Fabrizio and Max are car design enthusiasts and grew up with the same automotive references.

Initially, there was no plan to incorporate automobile design codes into the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, but there is no denying the influence that has seeped into this new creation: a case that resembles sleek automotive bodywork, a complex “stepped” sapphire crystal shaped like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, crowns that could easily be mistaken for car wheels…

The apparent portion of the movement also includes car engine-like components, including a grille with the famous hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations.

Three Limited Editions

There are three different versions to choose from, each limited to only 33 pieces. The first comes in a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes. The second is housed in an 18K rose gold case and features piercing green eyes, and a third version is crafted from black PVD-coated stainless steel and comes alive with vibrant red eyes.

“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”

MB&F and Bvlgari have come together to create a unique and groundbreaking snake that is sure to captivate watch collectors: with its striking design and innovative mechanical engineering, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti invites those who have long admired this mesmerizing creature from afar to finally embrace its power.

For more information, please visit www.mbandf.com/

Quick facts: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti Titanium
Movement: Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement.
Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials.
Functions: hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours).
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours).
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes).
Power reserve indicator at the back of the movement thanks to dedicated hand and a metallization on the case back sapphire crystal.
Case, Dial and Bracelet
39 mm grade 5 titanium case with blue domes
Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm.
Open-case design reveals the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator.
5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding: right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30m / 90ft.
Indexes and markers coated with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Hand-stitched blue rubber strap with velcro system.
Buckle: Ardillon buckle in grade 5 titanium.
Limitation: 33 pieces
Price: CHF 132,000, USD 148,000, EUR 140,000 (all excluding any taxes)

Quick facts: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti Stainless Steel / Black PVD
Movement: Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement, bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials.
Functions: hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours).
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours).
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes).
Power reserve indicator at the back of the movement thanks to dedicated hand and a metallization on the case back sapphire crystal.
Case, Dial and Bracelet
39 mm black PVD-coated stainless steel case with red domes.
Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm.
Open-case design reveals the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator.
5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding: right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30m / 90ft.
Indexes and markers coated with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Hand-stitched black rubber strap with velcro system.
Buckle: Ardillon buckle in grade 5 titanium.
Limitation: 33 pieces
Price: CHF 132,000/USD 148,000/EUR 140,000 (all excluding any taxes)
Quick facts: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti Rose Gold
Movement: Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement, bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials.
Functions: hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours).
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours).
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes).
Power reserve indicator at the back of the movement thanks to dedicated hand and a metallization on the case back sapphire crystal.
Case, Dial and Bracelet
39 mm 18K rose gold case with green hour and minute domes.
Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm.
Open-case design reveals the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator.
5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding: right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30m / 90ft.
Indexes and markers coated with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Hand-stitched green rubber strap with velcro system.
Buckle: Ardillon buckle in 18K rose gold.
Limitation: 33 pieces
Price: CHF 152,000/USD 170,000/ EUR 161,000 (all excluding any taxes)

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