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Two faces, Two dials, Two identities

High performance escapement with
“triple pare-chute” protection

Limited edition of 10 pieces

November 2021 Ineichen Auctions To Offer Fascinating Timepieces By Independent Watchmakers

by Elizabeth Doerr

Ineichen Zurich announces special auctions of rare timepieces to be hosted simultaneously in Zurich and online November 20-21, 2021, all of which encompass more than 200 ticking specialties that include a bevy of independent timepieces.

The first part of the main auction on November 20 will offer vintage and pocket watches; it is set to be followed by a special section called “Alchemy of Gold” with wristwatches in yellow gold by watchmakers and brands as diverse as Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, Girard-Perregaux, Vianney Halter, Tissot, Daniel Roth, and Vacheron Constantin.

On November 21, part two of the main auction will offer modern watches and will be followed by “12 Shades of Grey,” a special section of timepieces produced in white metals. “12 Shades of Grey” emphasizes the visual coloring of the models within, represented by brands and makers like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Breguet, F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, Konstantin Chaykin, and Urwerk.

12 Shades of Grey: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain (left) and Chronomètre à Résonance from the Ruthenium Collection

Notable among the 17 “12 Shades of Grey” lots are three pieces by F.P. Journe: the Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Collection in a platinum case; the Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium Collection; and the Chronomètre Souverain de Boulle, which is one of only ten watches that were supplied to Dallas retailer de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry in 2007. This piece belonged to the owner of the boutique.

See footage of these as well as several watches by Audemars Piguet in A Few Standout Watches At The Upcoming Ineichen Auction (Video).

Independent timepieces at Ineichen: Alchemy of Gold

The upcoming set of auctions features two examples of Vianney Halter’s Antiqua, one in yellow gold from approximately 2000 to be auctioned in the “Alchemy of Gold” section. The other Antiqua in white gold is from 1999 and is part of the “12 Shades of Grey” section.

Indies at Ineichen, November 2021: Vianney Halter Antiqua in yellow gold

This now-legendary steampunk-styled piece of watch history is not only a quirky interpretation of the perpetual calendar that allows the wearer to read the hour and minutes, month/leap year, day of the week, and the date via four riveted “portholes,” it is the watch that for many kicked off a love of independent watchmaking.

Halter’s guiding design principle in making this piece back in 1998 was an ideal he calls the Futur Anterieur (roughly translated, “the future as seen from the past”). Because we cannot see the future, at any point in time we envision it through the lens of present-day items and technologies. No one has done this quite the way Halter has, with this watch becoming horological canon, beginning the modern design movement in watches.

Indies at Ineichen, November 2021: Andersen Genève Minute Repeater

Another interesting independent timepiece to watch out for in the Alchemy of Gold section is an Andersen Genève minute repeater from approximately 1995. Housed in a stepped 38 mm yellow gold case, this is one of the rare classically styled timepieces by the founder of the A.H.C.I., Svend Andersen.

And here we also find a beautiful Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar Skeleton in yellow gold. Not only are the case and bracelet made of this luxurious, classy material, but the case is the typical edgy tonneau shape (38 x 41 mm) that Roth invented and that was a hallmark of his eponymous brand. Unfortunately, the auction house does not list the year of manufacture, but I can see that it is a pre-Bulgari model – perhaps just.

Ineichen part 2, November 21

Part two not only contains the bulk of the independent timepieces, but interestingly also five classic timepieces by A. Lange & Söhne: a Lange 1 Moonphase in platinum, a Lange 1 Moonphase in yellow gold, a quite recent 1815 Annual Calendar in white gold from 2018, a pink gold second-generation Lange 1, and a pink gold 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.

A. Lange & Söhne at Ineichen, November 2021: Lange 1 Moonphase

Fans of the latest independent maker to catch collectors’ eyes, De Bethune, will be overjoyed to find two unusual works from this maker. One is the DB10W Reedition Speciale from 2011 in white gold, while the other is a De Bethune DB10 from the same year in pink gold. Both watches offer two time zones in a 42 mm case with the boutique brand’s early lug style.

Indies at Ineichen, November 2021: De Bethune DB10W Reedition Speciale

The auction also includes two Bulgari-era Gérald Genta Arena Chrono Quattro Retro models, one in titanium from 2010 and another in white gold from 2011. Both of these watches only offer “Gérald Genta” on the dial as the maker (as opposed to the later disappearance of the Genta name, which was replaced by Bulgari). They offer four retrograde indications on the busy but beautiful dials: seconds, date, month, and power reserve.

Indies at Ineichen, November 2021: Urwerk EMC Black

Interesting is also the amount of Urwerk love this auction shows. Aside from a UR-103-EW in the “12 Shades of Gray” section, there are four timepieces in the main auction’s part two on offer, each with low estimates of CHF 15,000, perhaps the rarest of which is the EMC Black. Officially introduced in 2014, Urwerk’s EMC is the first high-end mechanical watch to use sophisticated integrated electronics to monitor its own precision. A simple adjustment screw on the back allows the wearer to easily regulate the timing themselves.

EMC’s electronics require no battery and have no influence at all on the movement itself, which is 100% mechanical. Turning the fold-out crank handle powers a miniature generator, which in turn charges a super capacitor that powers the electronics and extremely high-precision reference oscillator. A timing delta indication displays how many seconds per day the movement is gaining or losing. EMC is deliberately designed to look like an instrument.

Lot 189 is the Urwerk UR-105 CT from 2018 in black titanium, a sleek futuristic timepiece with modernized wandering hours. Lot 191 is the UR-105 TA, a variation on the UR-105 with bright orange accents.

The very interesting element on these UR-105 watches is the neatly integrated sliding catch just below the massive crown where 12 o’clock would be on a normal watch. In normal use, all that can be seen on top is brightly colored Super-LumiNova highlighting the hour and minutes. A gentle push on the catch, though, and the cover pops open to allow maximum appreciation of the complex mechanisms underneath that are responsible for rotating the hour satellites through their high-precision orbits.

Lastly, we have lot 192, the Urwerk UR-110 in titanium with Urwerk’s “classic” rotating satellite time display off to the side, where it peeks out from under a cuff to show the time. At a starting bid of CHF 15,000 this could be a steal.

Finally, we come to six models by Konstantin Chaykin, watches that have not yet appeared at auction very often that I can recall. Four of these timepieces on offer come from the independent Russian watchmaker’s popular Wristmon line, which began with the Joker, a watch cleverly depicting the time and moon phase displays as elements of a face.

Konstantin Chaykin Mouse King and Vianney Halter Antiqua in white gold

Lot 193 is a Joker in a black PVD-coated stainless steel case, one of just 18 pieces of this limited edition. Another variation on the Joker theme called Designa Individual is up for grabs here as well, also one of an 18-piece limited edition. A third Joker named Harlequin Ventuno in stainless steel, just released in June 2021 in a limited edition of 18 pieces, recalls a jester, while the “Ventuno” (Italian for “21”) in the name pays homage to the twenty-first year of the twenty-first century. A fourth Wristmon Joker in the auction, lot 196, is called Clown II and is also a recent release of 18 pieces. It comes here on a specially crafted strap that makes the clown face look like it has red hair and is wearing a suit.

The other two Chaykin pieces in part two of this auction are some of the most recent releases of the Russian watchmaker: the Minotaur Chinese New Year 2021 Wristmon in bronze (see a full story with our hands-on experience with this one at Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur: Ingenuity At The Center Of The Labyrinth) and the unique piece MK3 Fighter in ruthenium. This unusually shaped titanium timepiece measuring 55.82 x 48 mm displays not only our standard time here on earth on its unique ruthenium dial, but also MCT, Mars Central Time. Definitely a watch for dreamers and Elon Musk.

A seventh model, part of the clever seven-piece Mouse King edition of late 2020, is featured in the “12 Shades of Grey” section. See more about this themed model in 6 Festive Watches From 2020 Bound To Unfetter Your Wrist This Season.

Quick Facts Vianney Halter Antiqua
Case: yellow gold, white gold; 46.5 x 42.5 mm (including lugs and crown), underlying round case 36 mm
Dial: hand-engraved platinum dials (yellow case); platinum, yellow gold, and pink gold dials (white gold case)
Movement: automatic Caliber VH 198 with 35-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; instantaneous perpetual calendar with day, date, month, and leap year cycle
Production years: 1998 to 2016
Auction estimate: CHF 50,000 – 100,000 each

Quick Facts Urwerk EMC Black
Case: 43 x 51 x 15.8 mm, black titanium
Movement: manually wound UR-EMC caliber with Swiss lever escapement, Arcap P40 balance wheel and linear balance coupled with the optical sensor and artificial intelligence
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, precision delta, power reserve (80 hours), timing adjustment screw
Auction estimate: CHF 15,000-20,000

Quick Facts Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur
Case: 42 x 13 mm, iron bronze
Movement: automatic Caliber K.08-1 (based on Vaucher Caliber VMF 3002), 50-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, dual-disk weekday
Limitation: 8 pieces
Production year: 2021
Auction estimate: CHF 10,000-15,000

You may also enjoy:

A Few Standout Watches At The Upcoming Ineichen Auction (Video)

The Difference Between Urwerk’s EMC And A Toyota Prius (Not As Obvious As You May Think)

Grab Your Hoverboard And Fire Up The DeLorean: The Urwerk UR-105 CT Streamliner Takes Us Back To The Future (Where It May All End)

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur: Ingenuity At The Center Of The Labyrinth

Why I Bought It: Vianney Halter Antiqua

1 reply
  1. Ray
    Ray says:
    November 16, 2021 at 7:25 am

    One of them was inspired by an evil optometrist ! I kinda like it 😋

    Reply

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