“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons” is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted my attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catalogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.

“Despite their mechanical complexity, I think tourbillon watches and skeletonized pieces are the most visually pleasing. This auction is purely about joy-inducing aesthetics for me,” says Ineichen Auctioneers CEO Artemy Lechbinsky.

If these watches go for estimates, then there will be some real bargains in this auction, but I very much doubt many will go under their estimates. Time will tell just how strong the secondary market is still growing. 

Here are six watches by independent watchmakers that caught my eye scrolling the catalogue, and there are many more that I’d love to own.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon (lot 24): estimate CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon (lot 24) caught my eye because it’s an early evolution of a watch that is very special to me, the Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon by Mr. Daniel Roth.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon (photo courtesy Ineichen)

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon features a manual-wind movement with an eight-day power reserve and a one-minute tourbillon. The tourbillon has a three-arm second hand consecutively displaying three concentric 20-second scales.

And if you are not into pink gold, there is also another Daniel Roth Tourbillon in white gold at lot 26.

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/24.

De Bethune DB28-TIS5 (lot 31): estimate CHF 50,000 – CHF 70,000

Be still my beating heart! The DB28 is one of my favorite watches of all time and, not surprisingly, there is a long waiting list for a new one.

De Bethune DB28-TIS5 (photo courtesy Ineichen)

But you can jump the queue with this DB28-TiS5 at lot 31with its polished titanium case, five-day power reserve, three-dimensional moon phase, and super comfortable floating lugs.

And there is another DB28, this time in two-tone red gold and titanium at lot 32.

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/31.

Bovet Pininfarina Ottanta Tourbillon (lot 40): estimate CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000

I was fortunate in being invited to Pininfarina in Italy for the launch of the Bovet Pininfarina Ottanta Tourbillon and was very impressed. And this black titanium Ottanta Tourbillon at lot 40 is an eye-catching model.

Bovet Pininfarina Ottanta Tourbillon (photo courtesy Ineichen)

The movement is slim, and the case has lots of sapphire crystal windows letting the light in. An incredible 10-day power reserve doesn’t take as much winding as you might think thanks to some very clever winding gearing.

Further reading:
Pininfarina, The Mecca Of Supercar Design, And The Bovet Ottantasei
Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/40.

MB&F M.A.D. 1 Red (lot 42): estimate CHF 6,000 – CHF 8,000

The MB&F M.A.D. 1 Red at lot 42 is one I’ll be following closely as I’m the proud owner of a M.A.D. 1 Friend’s Edition.

MB&F M.A.D.1 Red (photo courtesy Ineichen)

MB&F’s first production model by its new M.A.D. sub-brand was one of the wildest hits of 2022 and features an inverted movement, lume-filled spinning rotor dial side and time indication on the case band. It’s not a watch, it’s entertainment! These watches were widely oversubscribed and it will be interesting to see what this one goes for.

And there’s also an MB&F HM3 at lot 38 and an MB&F at lot 41 that is an incredible yellow gold Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar with an estimate of CHF 80,000-CHF 100,000. 

Further reading:

M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass – Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept

Legacy Machine Perpetual Catapults MB&F Into The Big League: Here’s Why

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/41.

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Five (lot 43): estimate CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker is another watch in this auction where either the waiting list is long or even impossible to get on. 

Constantin Chaykin Joker Five (photo courtesy Ineichen)

But here’s a brand-new (not worn) anniversary Joker Five at lot 43 that you can have relatively quickly with green pupils in its eyes and a day of the week indicator in its mouth.

Further reading:

Why I Bought It: Konstantin Chaykin Joker
Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur: Ingenuity At The Center Of The Labyrinth
Konstantin Chaykin Joker Santa Special Edition: Kitsch, Cute, Or Just What We All Need?

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/43.

Urwerk UR-103 (lot 49): estimate CHF 15,000 – CHF 20,000

The UR-103 wasn’t Urwerk’s first watch (that was the 101), but it was the model that in 2003 set the brand on its path to success.

Urwerk UR-103 (photo courtesy Ineichen)

With its signature Urwerk rotating satellite wandering hour indication, futuristic case shape, and control panel on the back with power reserve indicator, fine tuning adjustment screw, and precise time-setting subdials, this UR-103 at lot 49 is pure Urwerk.

And if you are looking for something beefier and more complicated, there’s also a black Urwerk UR-202 at lot 50.

Further reading: Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk, Harry Winston, And The Opus V: Where On Earth Did That Come From?

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/49.

And there are big brands too

The Ineichen Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons auction is by no means focused on the smaller brands, there are many interesting lots from the larger brands including the following:

Breguet La Tradition (photo courtesy Ineichen)

Breguet La Tradition (lot 3), my favorite modern Breguet, comes in at an estimate of CHF 5,000 to CHF 7,000, which would be the bargain of the century! And there’s also a white gold La Tradition (lot 6).

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton (photo courtesy Ineichen)

The Vacheron Constantin Skeleton (lot 9) comes in at an estimate of CHF 10,000 to CHF 15,000. Vacheron Constantin is the master of fine traditional skeletonization and lot 9 is a perfect example of the art.

Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton (photo courtesy Ineichen)

And if you are into skeletonized watches, the auction also has two unique-piece Cartier models: a Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton (lot 19) and a Rotonde Skeleton (lot 20).

For more information, please visit ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/. You can already bid online.

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