Buying Watches In An Age Of Hubris: One Collector’s Search For The Truth

A friend called Michael Friedberg recently, thrilled that he had just bought a rare 50th anniversary watch at a local boutique. Michael shared his joy and asked him how he acquired it – which led him down a rabbit hole of boutique madness. Here he shares his frustrating experiences trying to buy a luxury watch today.

Ouchhh!!! This Rolex Submariner has seen better times

5 Unexpected Ways You Might Damage A Mechanical Watch – Reprise

Timepiece repairs can be expensive and often take a long time, so you generally want to avoid damaging a watch. Here John Keil lists five common things you may not be aware of that can damage a watch and how to prevent them.

Behind The Lens: The ‘Lumendorff’ A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen With Unique Custom-Fitted Platinum Bracelet

A couple of years ago, GaryG wrote about one collector’s obsession with the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen and the platinum Lange bracelet made by Wellendorff, and wanting to combine the two. The result was spectacular, and now he brings us another view of it told through his own photographs.

Missing link: look above the numbers 30 and 31 of this Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise

Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG’s intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.

Patronage in action: the author’s Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down

Why I Bought It: Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down – Reprise

Is it possible to make a watch providing a novel and entertaining display of time that is wearable in a variety of settings and will be respected years from now? GaryG believes that he owns such a piece: the Upside Down made by independent watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard.

Watch Design: Originality, Similarity, Or Imitation?

While GaryG thinks it’s all the more impressive that designers continue to delight us with new looks, many watches are often very similar. And trying to describe the slippery slope from vague resemblance to outright theft is not a simple task. So he begins down at the lower end of the grade with so-called homage watches and moves up the GaryG Styling Statute of Limitations from there.

Why I Bought It: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic – Reprise

The first time Bhanu Chopra strapped a borrowed BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic on his wrist, he thought that it was the perfect Bell & Ross watch for him, checking all the boxes for the characteristics he expected from an aviation-style instrument watch. He bought one and it has been part of his core pilot’s watch collection ever since. This is why.

Urwerk UR-CC1 in white gold

The Retrograde: One Of My Favorite Complications

The retrograde indication is one of Joshua Munchow’s favorite “Because We Can” (BWC) complications. Gears are an amazing invention and have allowed watchmakers to make incredible creations. Simple gear systems leave a multitude of openings for creativity. Look at some great retrogrades here.

Why I Bought It: MB&F Legacy Machine 101 2021 Edition – Reprise

Once upon a time, there was a watch enthusiast (GaryG) who admired the work of Max Büsser and his watchmaking enterprise MB&F and who dearly wanted to own one of his watches. But which one? Well, it took years, but Gary eventually decided on the eye-catching 2021 LM101 in white gold and here he explains why.

Marvels of watchmaking: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P and A. Lange & Söhne Double Split

Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, An Owner’s Perspective – Reprise

If there were a watch enthusiasts’ encyclopedia, under “embarrassment of riches” the image might just be a side-by-side shot two of contemporary watchmaking’s great complicated pieces: the “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Patek Philippe’s Reference 5370P split-second chronograph. In this article, GaryG compares and contrasts them to come out with a winner.