Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual In White Gold

by GaryG

The date: January 13, 2012.

The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne prior to migrating to Geneva for SIHH week.

The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in white gold.

The author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in white gold

The author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in white gold

Why I bought it

I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me; but pursuit of the piece took four long years. As the months passed, I began to think of it as the most extended impulse purchase of all time.

The craving started on that trip as I swapped my Double Split for my friend’s piece for the day and continued as I hectored him at every opportunity to sell his watch to me.

Finally, just a few months ago the stars aligned, and I was able to take the “Dato Perp” home.

Why did it take so long? Among other things, this particular watch is a rarity. While today many feel that the white gold/grey dial variant is the definitive Datograph Perpetual, like many cult watches it was not highly in demand in its initial incarnation (in 2014, Lange re-introduced this watch with baton-shaped hour markers rather than Roman numerals and with a changed color scheme for the hands).

Worth the wait: movement of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Worth the wait: movement of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

By various estimates, between 50 and 70 examples of the first-generation Datograph Perpetual in white gold exist; and if my search experience is any indication, their owners are inclined to hold them tight.

In my friend Terry’s collecting taxonomy, the Datograph Perpetual definitely falls in the “investment” realm – a watch with fairly predictable market value that is important in its own right and can be a foundational element within a collection.

Even if it weren’t such a piece, I’d have been obsessed with it anyway!

Why I love it

Back to the front: shadows reveal the layers of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual’s dial

Back to the front: shadows reveal the layers of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual’s dial

In my humble opinion, this is just one great-looking watch. For me, the platinum version is nice and the pink gold even better, but the white/grey combination is the version of the Datograph Perpetual to have.

I’ve heard folks complain that the dial is a bit too busy, but for me there’s just enough going on to make it interesting. I think that a slightly cluttered look is actually part of what makes a watch look like a Lange; and when it comes to a perpetual calendar, the key indication is the date, which is front and center here.

That movement: classic Datograph foundation for the Perpetual version

That movement: classic Datograph foundation for the Perpetual version

There are some mechanical devices that are almost universal in their appeal, and this is one of them. The Datograph movement as seen from the reverse side of the watch draws us in with its dimensionality as well as its array of hues and surface treatments.

Close up: a German silver bridge in the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Close up: a German silver bridge in the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Of course, A. Lange & Söhne is known for its use of untreated German silver, and in my personal watch this metal has acquired just enough of a patina to bring real warmth to the view. I’m also really pleased with the overall quality of finishing of this particular piece: it’s assertive (note the pronounced depth of the striping in the photo above) but uniformly attractive throughout the movement.

And there are a few lovely hand-filed internal angles to show off the craftsperson’s touch.

Beautiful, but functional as well: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Beautiful, but functional as well: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

With A. Lange & Söhne, one can always be assured of thoughtful functional design, too. That pusher at the upper edge of the photo, near 10 o’clock on the case? It simultaneously adjusts all of the calendar indications with a single push, but only when the crown is pulled out for safety.

The chronograph is also highly advanced: it both snaps the minute indicator forward instantaneously each time the chronograph second hand reaches 60 and flies back all indications to zero without having to be stopped in true Datograph style.

And it keeps time, too! Quite well, in fact, at least as far as the timing app on my phone can tell.

Old faithful Kello app: timekeeping check on the author’s Datograph Perpetual

Old faithful: timekeeping check on the author’s Datograph Perpetual

As an amateur macro photographer, I love nothing more than a watch that sets up well in varying lighting conditions and positions. The visual interest of the Datograph Perpetual, the not-quite-monochromatic look of the dial side with its splashes of color, and the great anti-reflective coatings used by A. Lange & Söhne make this watch a treat to shoot.

I’ve spent hours with the Datograph Perpetual in the light tent over the past few months, and it never fails to reward the effort with shots like the ones below, taken using a variety of techniques.

Full-frame view of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual movement using extension tubes

Full-frame view of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual movement using extension tubes

Film Noir look: high-contrast view of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with strong side lighting

Film Noir look: high-contrast view of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with strong side lighting

Subject isolation: using light and depth of field to draw the eye

Subject isolation: using light and depth of field to draw the eye

Shining star: high-intensity spot brings out the shadows

Shining star: high-intensity spot brings out the shadows

This watch doesn’t just perform well in the light tent, though. It looks great on the wrist in a variety of light conditions and wears well due to its pleasant weight and great proportion of height to diameter.

On the wrist: the author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

On the wrist: the author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

My final reason for loving this watch may seem a bit odd, but is nonetheless true: it both complements my “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and stands up to it in every way.

Lange landmarks: the author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual (top) and Double Split

Lange landmarks: the author’s A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual (top) and Double Split

When my “other” major A. Lange & Söhne piece was a pink gold Datograph, it somehow seemed to pale in the presence of what is arguably the world’s greatest chronograph. For me, the Datograph Perpetual is fully capable of holding its own with the addition of the perpetual calendar capability, and I find myself reaching for it and my Double Split in my watch box with about the same frequency.

Choices, choices: movements of the A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Datograph Perpetual

Choices, choices: movements of the A. Lange & Söhne Double Split (left) and Datograph Perpetual

Any quibbles?

Either good or bad news, depending on one’s point of view: the perfect watch hasn’t been made yet, at least in my view!

There’s so much to love about this watch that I feel a bit bad wanting even more. This year’s new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon (see A. Lange & Söhne Presents Two Perpetual Calendar Tourbillons: Datograph Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon And New Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar) has an instantaneous perpetual calendar, and even though I don’t find myself sitting up nights watching the big date on my watch slowly creep forward from one to the next, I do admire the instantaneous change complication and would love to have it on my watch.

Some other folks complain about the power reserve, but for me any opportunity to indulge in the legendary winding feel and sound of this movement is a pleasure. And I find that the moon phase window, which admittedly looks a bit small in most photos, actually seems in good proportion when the watch is seen in the real world.

Is it for you?

I bought it, but is this a watch that might be suitable for your collection? You might want to consider it if:

  • Like me, you are struck by the distinctive looks, both front and rear
  • You’ve always wanted a perpetual calendar chronograph but for some reason haven’t gone the Patek Philippe route or you find the Germanic style more to your taste
  • The technical sophistication of both the instantaneous flyback chronograph and the single-pusher perpetual calendar turns you on
  • You are keen to buy a factory-fresh complicated A. Lange & Söhne and the current-production white gold watch with its clean baton-index look speaks to you
Calling your name? The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Calling your name? The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

Happily, not every watch is for everyone! From my experience, you might want to direct your acquisitive energies elsewhere if:

  • The combination of perpetual calendar, chronograph, and big date indications makes the look just a little too fussy for you
  • You can’t imagine owning a perpetual calendar that has to be wound by hand rather than kept on a mechanical winder
  • You just have to have a platinum, black-faced Datograph before you branch out to other A. Lange & Söhne chronographs
Parting shot: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in white gold

Parting shot: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in white gold

Quick Facts
Case/dial combinations: pink gold with “argenté” (silvered) dial and white gold with grey dial; size 41 x 13.5 mm; previously produced in platinum
Movement: manually wound Caliber L952.1 with 36 hours of power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; subsidiary hacking seconds; chronograph with flyback and precisely-jumping minute counter; perpetual calendar with large date, day of week, month and leap year display; moon phase display; day/night indication
Price: current retail price €115,800
Production years: 2006 onward

 

19 replies
  1. Dan
    Dan says:

    I have liked A Lange & Sohne for a while, but you write up, fantastic photography, and passion for the watch have really opened my eyes to them

    Great job

    Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Thanks for your kind comments, Dan! As collectors we can love lots of watches, but can’t afford to buy them all — Lange is one of the brands that makes the grade for me, and I’m very pleased that you enjoyed my words and images about this particular watch.

      Best,

      Gary

      Reply
  2. Stephan
    Stephan says:

    Having to choose between a Double Split and a Dato Perpetual in the morning seems like a very, very good problem to have! Great photography, by the way.

    Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Life could be worse, Stephan!

      Trust me, I know how fortunate I am to be able to participate in the watch hobby — and over the years I’ve worked my way up to a place where I never thought I’d be with regard to my collection.

      Thanks very much for leaving your note — I appreciate the positive reinforcement on my shooting!

      Best,

      Gary

      Reply
  3. Colton
    Colton says:

    Fantastic writeup Gary, thank you for sharing! The photos are absolutely stunning, and bring to light such an under-appreciated (generally) Lange. This has always been my favourite iteration of the Dato P, and feel the new version with the baton indexes left me wanting in comparison to the Roman shown on your version.

    I agree that an instantaneous-changing perpetual would have been preferable (likewise with the Langematik P), however I love that they went with manual-wind and maintained the beauty of the movement.

    Would you recommend the Kello app after using it? I just checked into it after reading this article, and wonder if you have found it useful.

    Best, Colton

    Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Thanks, Colton — I always appreciate your comments and am very pleased that you liked this article!

      I don’t have any connection with Kello other than that I shelled out the $9.99 for the app. For what it is, I think it works well — my test being that testing the same watch on different occasions leads to the same timing result (within experimental error). It’s a bit fiddly to get the watch and microphone close enough so that the sound gets picked up — and it’s critical to follow the instructions and use the earbud cord mic on your phone and wrap the phone and mic in a cloth, otherwise the sound just doesn’t get picked up.

      And, it seems to be completely confounded by remontoires — but I guess that’s not too surprising!

      All the best,

      Gary

      Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Thanks Ian — and I’m delighted that I’ve helped your choice! I hope you’ll post some photos when the time comes.

      All the best,

      Gary

      Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Love of watches can be expressed at all price levels, Dennis! For me Nomos is a brand that has some of the same Saxon flavor as Lange at much more accessible price points.

      I’m glad you admire Lange, as I certainly do — and I’m pleased that you liked the article.

      Best,

      Gary

      Reply
  4. Bob Ross
    Bob Ross says:

    Gary you seem like a somewhat reasonable fella. Your write ups seem pretty informative and well written and your photography is great. Now unfortunately all of the “facts” you spread through platforms surely cannot be true. The first generation Datoperpetual was made in the thousands of pieces. What in God’s all honestly do you think that out of thousands they only produced between 50-70 white gold examples when in most cases that’s the most popular model they produce and sell in modern times. So let’s say you were right to the exact number again doubtful because I can find one with a quick 10 second search on chrono24 in this exact configuration. Not to mention over the course of 4 months I’ve counted a total of 6 of this exact watch for sale. Again your souless accounts to create rarity with no evidence of that is baffling. Shoot even my basis statistical anylysis is more evidence than your random claim.

    Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Hi Bob — first of all, thanks for taking the time to comment. I do try to be a somewhat reasonable fella, as you suggest, so I’ll suggest that perhaps you are confusing the Dato Perpetual with the Datograph Flyback.

      Estimates I’ve seen of production levels for the first gen Datograph were between 200 and 400 watches per year between 1999 and 2011, so the total production count of that watch was likely between, say, 2500 and 5000 as you suggest. The Perpetual Dato was made in much smaller numbers, and there are a number of sources I’ve talked with who support the estimate of 50-ish examples for Ref. 410.030 which is the first-generation Datograph Perpetual in white gold with Roman numerals, such as the one that I own.

      Based on your note I both went to Chrono24 and searched more broadly on Google for Dato Perpetuals for sale, and within that assortment for the 410.030. On Chrono24 I came up with two listings, one of which states “availability on request” (which means that they don’t actually have a watch). More broadly, there’s a dealer in LA who lists a 410.030 for sale but says that “an advertised item may be out of stock.” So, at most there are two 410.030s for sale out there and perhaps only one actual watch.

      Hope that’s useful — for another discussion of this variant and its rarity, I’ll refer you over to our friends at Monochrome: https://monochrome-watches.com/the-collectors-series-kristian-haagen-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual/

      Best, Gary

      Reply
  5. Maxmillion Renoir
    Maxmillion Renoir says:

    Gary G really? Production numbers of 50-70 is a laughable statement when total production numbers of datogrpah perpetuals is estimated to be around 4000. Let’s look at this using basic statistics and in your favor. If 3500 datographs where produced in total (assuming average demand for metals in any given watch) what makes you think only 1.42 percent of the people that purchased these 3500 some odd watches wanted platinum or even white gold for that matter…….and to even more readily prove you wrong if you go on chrono24 you can easily find one in both of these metal combinations lol. Creating false rarity is so laughable and of course you would be doing so with everyones darling child of the big brands. It’s getting old and the false hype you are creating is a problem. You are not a leading authority because your pockets are deeper than most and when I see this I respect and trust you less for the foreseeable future. In my eyes you are a poser.

    Reply
    • GaryG
      GaryG says:

      Mr. Renoir —

      I may or may not be a poseur, but it seems that you are confusing the Datograph Perpetual Calendar reviewed here with the chrono-only Datograph Flyback.

      Estimates I’ve seen of production levels for the first gen Datograph were between 200 and 400 watches per year between 1999 and 2011, so the total production count of that watch was likely between, say, 2500 and 5000 as you suggest. The Perpetual Dato was made in much smaller numbers, and there are a number of sources I’ve talked with who support the estimate of 50-ish examples for Ref. 410.030 which is the first-generation Datograph Perpetual in white gold with Roman numerals, such as the one that I own.

      I both went to Chrono24 and searched more broadly on Google for Dato Perpetuals for sale, and within that assortment for the 410.030. On Chrono24 I came up with two listings, one of which states “availability on request” (which means that they don’t actually have a watch). More broadly, there’s a dealer in LA who lists a 410.030 for sale but says that “an advertised item may be out of stock.” So, at most there are two 410.030s for sale out there and perhaps only one actual watch.

      Hope that’s useful — for another discussion of this variant and its rarity, I’ll refer you over to our friends at Monochrome: https://monochrome-watches.com/the-collectors-series-kristian-haagen-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual/

      Finally, if you do ever find a standard Datograph Flyback in white gold, please let me know right away…

      Best, Gary

      Reply

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

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