In this age of digital information, watch companies try to get ahead of the competition by releasing news on new timepieces ahead of the big watch fairs.
This year is no different, and in honor of the upcoming 28th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which opens its doors on January 15, 2018, we present you with an overview of some of the new models that have already been revealed – at least electronically.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Limited Edition
All by itself, the Reverso Tribute Duoface is a gorgeous watch. But it is made even more enticing with the addition of a handmade cordovan strap from Argentina’s premier boot maker, Casa Fagliano. Its slate grey sunray-brushed dial on the front and the silvered dial displaying a second time zone on the back – fully reversible, of course, so that either side faces upward at any desired time – in an 18-karat pink gold case are a beautiful match, too. This new watch, which wears its 1931 Art Deco inspiration like a badge of honor, is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manually wound Caliber 854/2.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Limited Edition
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Limited Edition
Case: pink gold, 49.4 x 29.9 x 12.6 mm
Movement: manually wound Caliber 854, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 42 hours power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds on the front; second time zone, 24-hour day/night indication on the back
Limitation 100 pieces
Price: no price announced yet
Richard Mille RM 07-01 in gem-set black ceramic
Richard Mille’s ladies’ collection continues to receive an interesting variety of materials, gem settings, and bracelets – the latest, available to view at the 2018 SIHH, in gem-set TZP ceramic. This combination easily reaches the brand’s goal of offering intelligent and beautiful timepieces to women who love the technical as much as the aesthetic.
Richard Mille RM 07-01 in gem-set black ceramic
“After our work on setting gems in Carbon TPT, we wanted to extend this innovative setting technique to new materials,” says Cécile Guenat, Richard Mille’s technical director for jewelry. “We naturally gravitated toward ceramic because it had never been done before. There is now no subterfuge in the way diamonds are incorporated, thanks to the way the mitraillage is performed by machining the material directly.”
Quick Facts Richard Mille RM 07-01 in gem-set black ceramic
Case: 45.66 x 31.4 x 11.85 mm, black TZP ceramic set with 0.25-millimeter full-cut brilliant diamonds and red gold
Movement: automatic Caliber CRMA2 with base plate and bridges in titanium, red gold variable geometry rotor for optimized winding, free-sprung balance with variable inertia
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: no price announced yet
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition
Identical to the previously released Geophysic True Second edition introduced in 2015 (see Stunning New Geophysic Collection From Jaeger-LeCoultre: True Second And Universal Time), this new watch is stunning in a blue dial that reveals the intelligent deadbeat seconds called True Seconds by Jaeger-LeCoultre. In an edition of 100 pieces, it is only available in the brand’s e-boutique.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition
For more information, please see www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/geophysic.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition
Case: stainless steel, 39.6 x 11.8 mm
Movement: automatic Caliber 770, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 40 hours power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds; date
Limitation 100 pieces, e-boutique exclusive edition
Price: $9,900
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Lady
At Baselworld 2017 Romain Gauthier introduced his first automatic watch, the Insight Micro-Rotor – and what a first automatic watch this was! For the perfectionist engineer’s first showing at SIHH he brings a feminine version of this lovely, unisex-sized timepiece designed to appeal to women who love both feminine aesthetics and mechanics. The Insight Micro-Rotor Lady features snow-set diamonds on the rotor as well as mother-of-pearl on the two subdials displaying the time and the underside of the base plate.
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Lady
“Increasingly, female collectors are looking for mechanical timepieces that marry style with substance,” says Gauthier. “While aesthetics still play a role, these women want the real deal in terms of innovative mechanisms and fine hand-finishing. Insight Micro-Rotor Lady offers this balance of brains and beauty.”
Quick Facts Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Lady
Case: 39.5 x 12.9 mm, red gold
Dial: Tahitian black mother-of-pearl or Australian extra-white mother-of-pearl
Movement: automatic in-house manufacture Romain Gauthier caliber with micro rotor, 80-hour power reserve (twin spring barrels), 4 Hz/28,800 vph; highest level of haute horlogerie finishing; micro rotor snow-set with approx. 45 brilliant-cut diamonds
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 10 pieces each in red gold with Australian extra-white mother-of-pearl and Tahitian black mother-of-pearl
Price: 83,000 Swiss francs (excluding taxes)
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Paying homage to company re-founder Walter Lange, who passed away unexpectedly in January 2017 at the age of 92 (see The Life And Times Of A. Lange & Söhne Re-Founder Walter Lange), A. Lange & Söhne now introduces a special set of watches in the 1815 line. These feature a stoppable sweep jumping seconds hand whose technology derives from a 150-year-old invention by Walter’s great-grandfather, company founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Patented in 1877, it was first added to a watch by his grandfather, Emil Lange.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Homage to Walter Lange
The visually striking jumping second hand is controlled by a vintage flirt-and-star subassembly that allows both the energy to be stored for the second hand’s jump and the sweep second hand to be stopped when the crown is pulled out. A. Lange & Söhne is right in thinking that Walter would have loved this particular watch as minimalist purity and intriguing technical challenges were features he admired.
For more information, please see www.alange-soehne.com/en/homage-to-walter-lange.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Case: 40.5 x 10.7 mm; yellow gold, white gold, or pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber L1924, plates and bridges in German silver, hand-engraved balance cock, highest degree of movement finish, 253 components (36 jewels), 3 screw-mounted gold chatons, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds; jumping sweep seconds with start/stop function (button)
Limitation: yellow gold (27 pieces), white gold (145 pieces), pink gold (90 pieces)
Price: €47,000 (price for all three metals)
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance with guilloche dial
Armin Strom’s fabulous Mirrored Force Resonance, introduced in November 2016, returns for the brand’s SIHH debut with a handmade guilloche dial made at Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine dial factory. The guilloche adds eye-catching contrast to the high-tech dial side featuring the resonant twin balance wheels and the resonance clutch spring connecting them.
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance with guilloche dial
I for one cannot wait to see this particular watch in person as I think it represents a perfect mix of technology and aesthetics.
Quick Facts Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance guilloche
Case: 43.4 x 13 mm, stainless steel
Movement: manually winding Caliber ARF15 with visible resonance clutch spring, two independent, symmetrically mirrored regulators beating at 25,200 vph/3.5 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, twin display of luminous seconds
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: 59,000 Swiss francs
Hermès Cape Cod
La Montre Hermès makes its debut at the SIHH in 2018, and it will do so with some great new design pieces to be introduced during the fair. These include new versions of the Cape Cod as outlined in 2018 Hermès Cape Cod Collection Captures The Essential Spirit Of This Signature Nautically-Inspired Line.
Hermès Cape Cod GM Milanese Double Tour (left) and Milanese S
Quick Facts Cape Cod Mesh Bracelet Large Model – Double Tour
Case: 29 x 29 mm, stainless steel
Dial: rhodium plated and mirror polished
Movement: quartz
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €3,250
Quick Facts Cape Cod Mesh Bracelet Small Model – Single Tour
Case: 23 x 23 mm, stainless steel
Dial: rhodium plated and mirror polished
Movement: quartz
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €3,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary and Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 25th Anniversary Re-Edition
On the twenty-fifth anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s crowd-pleasing Royal Oak Offshore, the brand introduces a non-limited reissue of the original Offshore Chronograph with updated movement and revamped details (I particularly like the new ceramic chronograph pushers and crown, which match the blue Tapisserie dial) as well as a surprising new Tourbillon Chronograph model.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary
The Tourbillon Chronograph is so surprising because Audemars Piguet has once again revamped the design to shock the brand’s loyal followers: and it is not only case design we’re talking about here, but also movement design. The total effect is that of a brand-new watch.
Audemars Piguet Oak Offshore Chronograph Re-Edition 25th Anniversary
For much more information, please see Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary & Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 25th Anniversary Re-Edition: Boldness Is Relative.
Quick Facts Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary
Case: 45 mm, steel or pink gold
Movement: manual winding Caliber 2947
Functions: hours, minutes; chronograph with 30-minute counter
Limitation: 50 pieces each in steel and pink gold
Price: 275,000 Swiss francs in steel, 310,000 Swiss francs in pink gold
Quick Facts Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 25th Anniversary Re-Edition
Case: 42 mm, steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 3126/3840
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counter
Price: 25,000 Swiss francs
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium
Van Cleef & Arpels finally revisits 2014’s Midnight Planétarium to create a new version for the female wrist. This wristwatch, which also uses astronomical planetarium technology from Dutch independent watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, is smaller in diameter than the first timepiece and presents a somewhat simplified dial compared to it.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium (photo courtesy Johann Sauty)
Celebrating ten years of the brand’s Poetic Complication series, Mercury makes one orbit around the dial’s sun in 88 days, Venus does the same in 224 days, and Earth of course needs 365 days. A diamond-encrusted moon is also present, making its orbit around the perimeter of the dial in 29.5 days. This sounds just heavenly, looking forward to seeing it!
For more on the creation of the original Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium, see Astronomical Design: Talking To Daniel Reintjes, CEO Of Christiaan Van Der Klaauw.
Quick Facts Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium
Case: white gold set with diamonds, 38 mm
Dial: aventurine, pink gold sun, gold shooting star, pink mother-of-pearl Mercury, green enamel Venus, turquoise Earth, diamond-encrusted moon
Movement: unspecified automatic movement with planetarium module, 40-hour power reserve
Functions: Mercury, Venus, Earth rotating around the sun at actual speeds, moon orbit around dial circumference in 29.5 days, calendar (on back)
Price: $245,000
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P
Piaget continues to hunt world records for its ultra-thin watches. And at SIHH 2018 it introduces the world’s thinnest automatic watch: the Ultimate 910P.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P
Building on the ideas of the manually wound Altiplano 900P, this watch sees the movement and the case become one. A peripheral rotor is an integral component to keep the height down as well.
Quick Facts Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P
Case: 41 x 4.3 mm, pink or white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 910P with peripheral black PVD-coated 22-karat gold rotor; base plate is simultaneously case back, approximately 50 hours’ power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: $27,000 (white gold), $26,000 (pink gold)
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Ceramic
At the 2017 SIHH, Girard-Perregaux introduced a new set of Laureato models, which included some elegant options for women (see Girard-Perregaux Returns To SIHH With 2017 Laureato Models, Including Elegant Editions For Women).
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Ceramic
Now a new take on the Laureato arrives yet again: a black ceramic-encased, skeletonized, time-only timepiece that is unmistakable in its futuristic intentions: it’s poised to head this brand down a new path, which I hope we get to find out about at SIHH.
For more information, please see www.girard-perregaux.com/en/laureato/laureato-skeleton-ceramic.
Quick Facts Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Ceramic
Case: 42 x 10.93 mm, black ceramic
Movement: automatic Caliber GP01800-0006, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 54-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $36,600 / 37,100 Swiss francs
Cartier Libre
In addition to the new Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon (starting at $216,000 and going up to $530,000 depending on metals and gems) and the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night ($63,000), Cartier also pre-announced a new feminine collection aimed at Cartier aficionados.
Cartier Baignoire Débordante
These new models arose from the designers’ desire to play with the historic brand’s signature watch shapes with their odd proportions and volumes. It is expressed in five limited edition (jewelry) watches powered by quartz movements (except the Crash Radieuse, which is powered by manually wound Caliber 8970 MC).
Baignoire Débordante: white gold with diamonds and black spinels, limited to 50 pieces, $82,500
Baignoire Infinie: white gold, diamonds, Tahitian mother-of-pearl, and black spinels, limited to 20 pieces, $100,000
Baignoire Etoilée: white gold with diamonds and black spinels, limited to 15 pieces, $209,000
Baignoire Interdite: white gold with diamonds, limited to 50 pieces, $43,200
Crash Radieuse: yellow gold, limited to 50 pieces, $40,700
For more information, please visit www.cartier.com/en-us/collections/watches/exceptional-creations/cartier-at-sihh/cartier-libre.
IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 years
The IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 years (obviously) celebrates 150 years of IWC. It was inspired by a pocket watch Austrian watchmaker Josef Pallweber designed and licensed to IWC in 1884, and it includes the first mechanical digital display ever introduced in a wristwatch by the Schaffhausen-based brand. We’re glad IWC chose to honor this design, which is outside IWC’s normal design box, because it is a real stunner.
IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 years
Look for 27 limited edition models from the Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s, and Da Vinci lines belonging to a special Jubilee collection announced ahead of SIHH as well.
Quick Facts IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years
Case: 45 x 12 mm, red gold
Movement: manually winding Caliber 94200, 4Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve 60 hours
Functions: digital hours and minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds
Limitation: 250 pieces
Price: $36,600
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Galaxy Special Edition and Tonda Métropolitaine Galaxy
The luxurious pink gold case and bracelet set with sparkly diamonds could not be a better frame for the expansive aventurine dial of the special edition Tonda 1950 Galaxy with its beautiful details. While this watch is not completely new – it is the new bracelet that is being introduced at SIHH – it is more than worth another look.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Galaxy Special Edition
The second pre-announced timepiece for SIHH, the Tonda Métropolitaine Galaxy, is also aimed at women and outfitted with a beautiful aventurine dial. Housed in stainless steel, its much lower price makes it much more affordable to a larger segment of women and the smaller case also probably makes it somewhat of a more comfortable fit.
Quick Facts Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Galaxy Special Edition
Case: 39 x 8.4 mm, pink gold set with 84 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.646 ct)
Dial: aventurine with pink gold appliqués
Movement: automatic Caliber PF702
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: $39,000
Quick Facts Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métropolitaine Galaxy
Case: 33.1 x 8.65, stainless steel with 72 diamonds (0.4965 ct)
Dial: aventurine with white gold appliqués
Movement: automatic Caliber PF310
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $12,000
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S & Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Pirelli
Roger Dubuis seems to have finally hit its stride, both in terms of interesting watches and partnerships: both Lamborghini and Pirelli are partners that make total sense for this high-tech brand with its radical designs.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Pirelli
The pre-introductions for SIHH continue with one each for the Lamborghini and Pirelli lines, docking seamlessly into 2017’s Aventador S introduction.
If you’re interested in the Aventador S’s matching car, please see Lamborghini Huracán Super Trofeo EVO: The Car Behind The Watch.
Quick Facts Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S
Case: 45 x 14.05 mm, multi-layer carbon with titanium container and overmolded black rubber and pink gold bezel and crown or multi-layer carbon with titanium container and overmolded black and yellow or orange rubber
Movement: manual winding Caliber RD103SQ with double free-sprung balances, Seal of Geneva, 40-hour power reserve, two 4-Hertz balances for 57,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, jumping seconds; power reserve
Limitation: 28 pieces in pink gold and black/yellow; 8 pieces in orange
Price: $214,000
Quick Facts Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Pirelli
Case: 45 x 14.02 mm, black DLC-coated titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber RD820SQ with micro rotor, Seal of Geneva, NAC-coated plate and bridges, 60-hour power reserve 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 88 pieces
Price: $69,500
Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
Moser & Cie has been having quite a bit of success with a dial color called Funky Blue, and now it graces a new pared-down tourbillon concept set to launch at SIHH 2018. Another unusual element here that I noticed right away (because I recently spent almost three weeks in South Africa) is the kudu leather strap, which I definitely look forward to seeing in person.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
Kudu is a typical (and quite delicious) antelope of South Africa; I’m eager to hear why the brand chose this as a strap material.
Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
Case: 42 x 11.6 mm, white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber HMC 804 with one-minute flying tourbillon, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, three-day power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 20 pieces
Price: $69,000 / 69,000 Swiss francs / €65,800
DeWitt Academia Endless Drive
The crazy thing about this watch is visible immediately upon viewing it: a rotating “endless screw” – paying tribute to automotive mechanics – right in the middle of the dial. Linked to the power reserve, it begins to rotate as the mainspring unwinds. Winding the mainspring allows the screw to slide along its axis. An interesting, if somewhat gimmicky, idea. I will have to see it to report more.
DeWitt Academia Endless Drive
Quick Facts DeWitt Academia Endless Drive
Case: 42.5 x 12.85 mm, pink gold and black rubber
Movement: automatic Caliber 1653 with 59-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve indication
Price: CHF 38,500 / €36,700 excluding taxes
Hautlence Vortex Gamma Magma
Building on the funky Vortex Gamma launched at Baselworld 2017, Hautlence debuts a new, equally bold color scheme at SIHH 2018. This line remains quite interesting.
Hautlence Vortex Gamma Magma
Quick Facts Hautlence Vortex Gamma Magma
Case: 52 x 50 x 18 mm, HL Colorlight (an itr2 ceramic composite)
Movement: automatic HLR 2.0 tourbillon caliber with rotating regulator, micro rotor, 92 jewels, 3 Hz frequency
Functions: jump hours displayed by a chain, retrograde minutes, 40-hour power reserve indication
Price: 170,000 Swiss francs
MB&F Kelys & Chirp
MB&F pre-launched a mechanical automaton that does not tell the time, but will be available to view at SIHH – and I for one am eagerly looking forward to watching Kelys (the turtle) crawl across a surface while Chirp (the bird) launches into song.
MB&F Kelys & Chirp Blue
See the whole story at Turtles And Singing Birds: A Brief Historical Perspective On Automata Featuring MB&F, Raul Pagès, And Jaquet Droz.
Quick Facts MB&F Kelys & Chirp
Case: rhodium-plated brass, stainless steel, white gold (Chirp), leather with colored calfskin (tortoise scales); 24 cm (length) x 16 cm (width) x 8 cm (height without bird open); approx. 1.4 kg (weight)
Movement: manually wound by key (tortoise belly), 480 total components, twin-cam mainspring barrel, double bellows system (bidirectional air pushing), security mechanism, power reserve: 3 cycles of turtle walking and bird singing
Functions: walking turtle (10-12 seconds, average speed 30 millimeters per second), singing bird that flaps wings, moves tail, and opens beak
Limitation: 4 editions of 18 pieces each (blue, green, yellow, ochre)
Price: 49,000 Swiss francs (excluding taxes)
Montblanc Star Legacy Rieussec Chronograph and TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
Docking into Montblanc’s beautiful Rieussec monopusher chronograph collection, which celebrates historical chronograph maker Nicolas Rieussec, Montblanc presents the new Star Legacy ahead of SIHH 2018. This represents the first real redesign of the line since its inception in 2008 with particular attention being paid to the fine details of the dial, improving legibility, and providing more cues to Montblanc’s Minerva history.
Montblanc Star Legacy Rieussec Chronograph
This watch capped by a beautiful sfumato (darker strap edges) alligator-skin strap from Montblanc’s own Pelleteria in Florence, Italy also has a quick-set hour hand for the second time zone as well as a quick-set date display that can also be set forward and backward.
Quick Facts Montblanc Star Legacy Rieussec Chronograph
Case: 44.8 x 15.02 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber MB R200 with column wheel chronograph, monopusher, twin spring barrels for 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph, second time zone with day/night indication
Price: €7,450
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
The 2018 Monthblanc TimeWalker collection is inspired by the spirit of motor racing and Minerva’s timing history, and it shows.
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
The Manufacture Chronograph sports a “panda dial” – a white dial with black (eye) spots resembling a panda bear – and an eye-catching high-gloss ceramic bezel; it is powered by a brand-new manufacture movement. A beautiful sfumato (darker strap edges) calfskin strap from Montblanc’s Pelleteria in Florence, Italy perfects the look.
Quick Facts Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
Case: 43 x 15.2 mm, stainless steel with ceramic bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber MB 25.10 with column wheel chronograph and rhodium-plated tungsten rotor in steering wheel design, 46-hour power reserve, screw balance, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date, chronograph
Price: €4,990
The SIHH runs from January 15 through 19, 2018.
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Nice information! Thanks for this article