by Ian Skellern
Along with my Quill & Pad colleagues Elizabeth Doerr and GaryG, I have the honor to be a member of the 2020 GPHG Academy. And one of our first roles is to nominate watches in each GPHG category that we feel represent the best in their class – submissions close June 5, 2020.
As might you, I tend to focus on my favorite niche sectors of the horological world. And as I started to put rough lists of watches together, I realized that I was likely only aware of a fraction of watches that are both eligible and noteworthy. And as my favorite niche sectors are likely to be different than yours, many of you will know about watches that I, and perhaps other Academy members, don’t.
The pre-selected men’s watches from the 2019 edition of the GPHG: (clockwise from top left) Alchemists Mechanical Healing Cu29, De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones, Grand Seiko Spring Drive Manual-Winding Platinum, Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic, Laurent Ferrier Bridge One, and Kari Voutilainen 28ti
Please let us know your favorites in the comments below.
Nominate your favorites for the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève!
Below are the prize categories and the rules of each category. If you know of any watches that you think should be worthy of consideration, please let us know in the comments below. Please include:
1. Category
2. Name of watch
3. What makes it worthy or outstanding in its category?
I’ll update this article with your suggestions (if deemed suitable) until June 5, 2020. I know that there are at least three Academy members reading, and there’s likely to be quite a few more.
Let us know your favorites in any of these categories in the comments below.
Ladies’ – definition of the category: Women’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with maximum eight carats’ of gems.
Ladies’ Complication – definition of the category: Women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, digital or retrograde time display, world time, second time zone) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.
Men’s – definition of the category: Men’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with maximum five carats’ of gems.
Men’s Complication – definition of the category: Men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., world time, dual time, or other) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
Iconic – definition of the category: Men’s or ladies’ watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years.
Chronometry – definition of the category: Mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Calendar and Astronomy – definition of the category: Men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g., date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Mechanical Exception – definition of the category: Men’s and/or ladies’ watches featuring a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.
Chronograph – definition of the category: Mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Diver’s – definition of the category: Watches linked to the world of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity.
Jewellery – definition of the category: Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gemsetting and also distinguished by the choice of stones.
Artistic Crafts – definition of the category: Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.
Petite Aiguille – definition of the category: Watches with a retail price between CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
For more information about the GPHG Academy, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/academy/2020-regulations.
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Ian,
Congratulations on being a GPHG Academy member. Though the three of you on the Academy Is a big honor, it is thinning out the ranks of the Q&P team that can comment publicly on the categories in your usual articles. Please make sure to included Tim Mosso in those.
I am wondering how it will go this year as the releases are lean, compared to prior years. I have a few suggestions.
For Mens watch (or Artistic Crafts??), I would recommend the JN Shapiro Infinity Series P.01 with this mesmerizing and innovative guilloched meteorite dial.
For Ladies (or Chronometry or Jewelry), I suggest the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillion. You pick the metal.
For Ladies, the Vacheron Egerie in steel or gold.
Here’s an idea: What about a Gronefeld 1941 Remontoire Bespoke dial (made in the Voutilainen factory!) for the Artistic Crafts category. I am sure that Kari will blow it out of the water with one of his other watches but perhaps a nomination is warranted.
For Iconic, how about the JLC Reverso (not sure which one-sorry).
I have to say this is tougher than it looks! Even picking the correct category is challenging.
Thank you, I have also found that it is not always easy finding the right category for some of the watches.
Regards, Ian
Thank you for your comments, Bill! We had Tim commenting on our round tables throughout the 2019 GPHG and I hope he’ll agree to do it again for the 2020 edition. As the three of us are Academy members, but it is not certain we’ll be Jury members, we’ll have to decide how to handle the round tables once we see when and how the Jury is nominated. I am very glad to hear that someone reads and likes them! They are a lot of work on this end, so it’s nice to have some encouragement. Thanks again!
Ladies’: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso One Red-Wine.
Ladies’ Complication: Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon.
Men’s: Charles Frodsham Double-Impulse Chronometer (could also fit in Chronometry).
Men’s Complication: Breguet Classique 7337 Blue Dial.
Iconic: ALS Lange 1.
Chronometry: Grand Seiko SLGH002.
Calendar and Astronomy: New F. P. Journe QP.
Mechanical Exception: F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance / or Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Resonance.
Chronograph: Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar.
Diver’s: Wempe Iron Walker.
Jewellery: ?
Artistic Crafts: Vacheron La Caravelle 1950.
Petite Aiguille: Ophion 786 Velos.
Excellent suggestions, thanks, Gav. You can suggest multiple watches in each category.
Regards, Ian
I know, I just struggled to come up with anything else I was confident with from memory and some quick reminders.
I’ll go and have a thorough pore over what’s come out since the last GPHG.
Gav, as much as I *LOVE* JLC and the Reverso, that red variation is quartz….just pointing that out.
Is it?! Ach. Cheers for letting me know.
I leave out any watch with a quartz movement in a contest with mechanical watches. Quartz should be a category by itself. Mechanical watches are the real thing, at least for collectors and connoisseurs!
Actually, the Armin Strom falls outwith the date limit, so scrap that one.
If you mean the Gravity Equal Force, it fully falls within the proper time limit!
Heh, I just knew that was going to happen; I mistakenly left the comment dangling on its own and not as a reply to my post before it. It was Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance I was referring to (at least I think it was released too early) – very happy to learn that the Gravity Equal Force is confirmed as A-OK, though.
Thanks for your comment Gav. The Minute Repeater was launched July 16th last year. The rules of GPHG are May 2019 and at the latest by the end of December 2020. So we should be good with the date for the Minute Repeater Resonance. Keep fingers crossed
Proposing the Charles Frodsham double impulse chronometer for the chronometry category. The double impulse escapement with 2 escape wheels takes inspiration from escapements Derek Pratt/George Daniels uses in larger pocket watches, but never before adopted for use in smaller watch movements. It is also an extension of Breguet’s Natural Escapement, which he never manage to make it work reliably. George Daniels himself considered it a technical challenge producing it for smaller watch movements. High production tolerances needed aside, it also impulses in both directions of a balance oscillation. Due to low friction nature on the acting surfaces of the escapement, they do not need oil lubrication, increasing the life span of working parts.
The technical hurdles overcame by the team at Charles Frodsham is a cumulation of challenges that was faced by some of the greatest watchmakers before us and they have manage to adopt it in a smaller watch case.
The Charles Frodsham double impulse chronometer is an excellent suggestion, thank you, Xiulaba.
Regards, Ian
It would have been last year, given it was launched in early 2018.
It does seem like you’re right TJ. Maybe Ian can divuldge more info on whether the Charles Frodsham is eligible for this year’s GPHG?
They haven’t brought out a new watch, so there is no case for inclusion that I can see – which is not to say that the watch is anything other than a magnificent achievement, and really should have been entered previously.
Dear Ian, dear Quill & Pad team,
what a good idea, what a great fun, year by year, what a nice timepass and enjoyable reading. Thank you.
So below please, you find some nominations from my very subjective point of view.
Childrens’, Teenagers’
The most forgotten category of all times but so important for the watch industry.
HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL
because: a robust, tough, mechanical, affordable beginners watch.
This is the future of the watch industry.
Ladies’
MB & F LEGACY MACHINE FLYING T
because: the overwhelming fascination in design dial and function
Ladies’ Complication
JAQUET DROZ LOVING BUTTERFLY AUTOMATON
because: keeping up the idea of the automaton which never should vanish
Men’s
A. LANGE UND SÖHNE ODYSSEUS STEEL
because: finally they dare to produce it
Men’s Complication
PARMIGIANI TONDA 1950 DOUBLE RAINBOW FLYING TOURBILLON
because: a man’s complication deserves some more gemstones
Iconic
CORUM GOLDEN BRIDGE
because: it is a design of the century
Chronometry
ACRIVIA TOURBILLON BARRETTE-MIROIR
because: it is a masterpiece of watchmaking, casemaking, and perfection from a newcomer
Calendar and Astronomy
VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN in BLUE
because: its style, size, beauty, history, and design
Mechanical Exception
H. MOSER ENDEAVOUR FLYING TOURBILLON VANTA BLACK DOUBLE HAIRSPRING BLACK HANDS
because: its innovative character of colour, display, minimalism
Chronograph
H. MOSER STREAMLINER FLYBACK
because: the exceptional movement construction which makes so many elements of an automatic so visible
Diver’s
BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE ’57
because: its simplicity and clear readability
Jewellery
CARTIER RONDE LOUIS CARTIER REGARD DE PANTHÈRE
because: the delicate beauty of design and artistry from famous Cartier
Artistic
VACHERON CONSTANTIN LES CABINOTIERS SINGING BIRDS
because: the traditional art of geneva enameling
Petite Aiguille
TUTIMA SAXON ONE M
because: its clear, fresh, new, and balanced design
Kind regards, immer schön fröhlich bleiben, Thomas
p.s.: and please don’t forget the next generation.
Just a quick comment here: the Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly is not conceived as a ladies’ watch, though if some women are inclined to wear bigger watches there is certainly no reason why not!
uuuups, shame on me : )
the butterfly is just too beautiful
Oh, easy mistake to make, I believe! I love that fluttering butterfly beyond reason!
Petite Aiguille:
Holthinrichs watches Raw Ornament.
Innovative design concept and competitive pricing.
The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon deserves to be nominated in the Ladies’ Complication category.
Alternative selection.
Ladies’: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm 7735(X).
Ladies’ Complication: Vacheron Égérie Moonphase.
Men’s: Dornblüth & Sohn Quintus 2010 Jubilar (Could also fit in Petite Aiguille).
Men’s Complication: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Tourbillon Slate / Breguet Classique Blue Enamel Tourbillon 5367.
Iconic: JLC Reverso.
Chronometry: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force.
Calendar and Astronomy: Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar ‘Vintage’.
Mechanical Exception: Vacheron Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie .
Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster ‘Ed White’ / H Moser Streamliner Flyback.
Diver’s: Doxa Sub 200.
Jewellery: Blancpain ‘Valentine’s Day 2020’
Artistic Crafts: Minase Five Windows.
Petite Aiguille: Ming 27.01 Extra-Flat.
Oh, by the way Audemars Piguet is fully out of the running this year because it won the Aiguille d’Or last year.
Ah, of course. In that case the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 can take its place.
A couple more that I wasn’t sure would qualify.
Men’s: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius with Rose Gold case. This is pushing ‘new’ to the limits of its definition – although I’ve already included mere dial updates in my suggestions – but any excuse to have it in there.
Men’s Complication: Van Bricht Old Mind. Not sure of the release date.
And that’s me done.
I’m betting that a few more will come to mind, Gav, they usually do.
Well, I suppose Audemars’ [Re]master01 can go under Chronograph, along with Lange’s Odysseus under Men’s, if it really must (sorry Gary); and Journe’s Astronomic Souveraine production model might qualify for Mechanical Exception (if it does, I suspect even Vacheron’s Cabinotiers offerings and JLC’s new Master Grande Tradition might fall in its shadow).
I love the bracelet on Hublot’s Big Bang Integral but hate the dial. I kind of feel Bvlgari’s won enough already for the Octo so any iterations this year I’m ignoring. They’ll probably manage to get something in there though, which is fine. Montblanc and IWC can jog on, although I suspect a Minerva calibre will just have to make it in.
I’ve thought of one more possibility for the Men’s prize – Garrick’s S3. I prefer the look of their earlier S2, but their own work, and collaboration with Strehler, deserves credit.
One more, which I can’t belive I missed out, and I’m sure you’ll approve of Ian (well *I* might say so, but you couldn’t possibly comment) – De Bethune’s DB28XP Tourbillon for Men’s Complication. In fact, I think that’s my favourite for that prize.
That one’s definitely already on our radar, Gav.
Good points. Not a fan of the Odysseus?
Well, I tried to like it, I really did, and held out until Gary gave his one a review before I made my mind up. Beautiful movement, it does admittedly somehow look right in Gary’s collection next to his other Langes (in a kind of pleasing run of the gamut for their variety of style) but the dial’s not *quite* right, and the bracelet…oh god the bracelet.
I see it as like the 1st generation of Vacheron’s Overseas, though – in that they’ll make the necessary changes to make it a stunner in a later iteration. I have faith.
My kingdom for an edit function. The Dornbluth I suggested for the Men’s selection was specifically the rose gold case with black dial version.
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/d1931.jpg
Another, if the release date permits.
Men’s: Petermann Bedat Dead-Beat Seconds Calibre 171.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLBVMIevoXI
and what I had forgotten – men’s complication II:
Andreas Strehler ‘Trans-axial Remontoir Tourbillon’
because: it is technically and esthetically beautiful.
Grretings, Thomas 37G
Sadly, like the Frodsham, I think that might be a 2018 release. Not completely sure, though.
Yes, I confirm.
Going to put who I hope wins in each category on my initial impressions from the reveal.
Ladies’ Complication: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon.
Men’s: Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo / or Grand Seiko 9SA5 / or Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin.
Men’s Complication: Greubel Forsey Handmade 1 (sorry De Bethune!).
Iconic: Doxa Sub 300T.
Chronometry: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force.
Calendar & Astronomy: Vacheron Overseas QP Ultra-thin skeleton.
Mechanical Exception: Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance.
Chronograph: Atelier de Chronométrie Split-second.
Diver’s: Wempe Iron Walker.
Artistic Crafts: J. N. Shapiro Infinity Meteorite.
Petite Aiguille: Habring² Chrono Felix Panda.
Challenge: Ophion 786 Velos.
Aiguille D’or: Greubel Forsey Handmade 1.
Innovation: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept.
Revelation: Garrick S3.
Just realised the De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon can pick up the Men’s Complication prize if the GB Handmade 1 picks up the biggie, which I would like to see happen.
Shame JLC and Lange haven’t entered anything as that would’ve at least made the Iconic category exciting. Oh well.