Geneva Watch Days ended just last week, but it already feels like forever ago . . . except for the aftermath of sorting photos, information, and new impressions, etc., etc., etc.
During the course of this sorting process upon returning, I discovered fun wristshots that Ian took while I was otherwise occupied garnering information about the watches. As these mark a journey of sorts through the new watches – as well as models released throughout 2020 that we just hadn’t seen in real yet – I thought it might be fun to share a few of them here.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Watch
Bulgari was the instigator, organizer, and “manager” of Geneva Watch Days, so it stands to reason that this brand would also release what could well be called the biggest news during the loose fair: the new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Watch combining a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon powered by an automatic movement with peripheral rotor in an ultra-thin case. Its movement is only 3.5 mm in height!
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic on the wrist of Martin Green
Fans of the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo series will undoubtedly also be enamored of this new watch, which the brand touts as another world record since it is the thinnest automatic chronograph tourbillon on the market.
I’m not sure that’s so important here but being so thin certainly adds to the watch’s desirability for many. We just love its monochromatic complexity.
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Watch
Case: 42 x 7.4 mm, sandblasted titanium, water resistance 30 m
Movement: automatic Caliber BVL 388 with peripheral rotor and one-minute tourbillon; skeletonized; 52-hour power reserve; 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; chronograph
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: €150,000
Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport
Bulgari’s other big news was the reanimation of the Gérald Genta brand, which was taken over by Bulgari in 2000. By 2010 the brand had disappeared as a free-standing entity, with the design of the Retro model eventually morphing into the Octo line.
Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport on the wrist
After Bulgari launched the limited edition Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Arena Biretro in platinum in January 2019, it shouldn’t have been that surprising that the brand resurrected Genta’s work again – and has now announced it will become an annual edition. The popularity of the daring designer has never seemed to waver, something that Bulgari obviously also noticed.
The new Arena Bi-Retro Sport is an exceedingly faithful edition that even seems to be housed in an original case. Though thanks to its sizing and use of titanium, we know it’s not. The new Arena Bi-Retro Sport found avid fans within Quill & Pad’s ranks.
You may also enjoy Gérald Genta: Legendary Watch Designer With A Renegade Spirit.
Quick Facts Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport
Case: 43 x 12 mm, brushed titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber BVL 300, 42-hour power reserve; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: jump hour, retrograde minutes; date
Price: €15,000
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE
The next biggest news by far was the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, Chopard’s independent-style boutique sibling brand, which focuses on ultra-high watchmaking and ultra-fine finishing. One of many great points about the FB 2RE is watch is its round case, which comes in stark contrast to the first model, the FB 1, and its iterations, which had an unusually shaped case and dial that was surely not for everyone.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE in pink gold on Martin Green’s wrist
The new FB 2RE is sure to please potential clients who prefer to stick with more traditional styles. What goes around comes around – here in an exceedingly pleasant way.
You may also enjoy Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE: Change Is Round.
Quick Facts Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE
Case: 44 x 14.3 mm, white or pink gold
Movement: manufacture Caliber FB-RE.FC, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency with chain-and-fusée and one-second remontoir d’egalite, suspended spring barrel, Maltese cross stopwork system, variable inertia balance, power reserve 50 hours; 1,200 components, including 790 for the chain, 26 bridges German silver, and 10 pillars, officially C.O.S.C. chronometer-certified
Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat hacking seconds; power reserve indicator on back
Limitation: 10 pieces in each color
Price: 210,000 Swiss francs
Bovet Récital 27
Bovet was a lot about colors and textures at Geneva Watch Days, and this 2020 Récital 27 in a green color scheme is a perfect example.
Bovet Recital 27 on the wrist of Martin Green
And look how well it nestles onto Martin Green’s wrist . . . as if it knows it is entirely welcome there!
Quick Facts Bovet Récital 27
Case: 46.3 x 15.95 mm, titanium
Movement: manually wound Caliber 17DM04-3FPL, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; second and third time zones, world time with 24-city reference, day/night indicator for second and third time zones; two-hemisphere moon phase; power reserve indication
Limitation: 60 movements
Price: 66,000 Swiss francs
Remark: 5-year warranty
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is a window into the soul of De Bethune. And on the wrist, it’s a window into the soul of the owner. I could not stop taking wristshots of this superb piece of horology, so I guess you know what my soul looks like – it’s blue!
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon on the wrist
Joking aside, this new take on the DB28 Steel Wheels is absolutely superb with its blue transparency and multitude of interesting details. A wristshot hardly does it justice.
If you also feel that way, I recommend reading my ode to this timepiece: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon: Let There Be (Blue) Light!
Quick Facts De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
Case: 43 x 9.8 mm, polished grade 5 titanium
Movement: manual winding Caliber DB28SWTTIS1 with 30-second tourbillon, self-regulating twin spring barrels, silicon escape wheel, 5 Hz/36,000 vph frequency, five-day power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve
Limitation: 10 pieces
Price: 195,000 Swiss francs excl. local taxes
F.P. Journe 2020 Quantième Perpetuel
Announced in April 2020, I doubt many have seen this gorgeous timepiece in real yet. We were lucky ourselves, having made an appointment to swing by Journe’s Geneva manufacture at the end of our busy week. And we were rewarded with the ability to handle some amazing timepieces.
F.P. Journe 2020 Quantième Perpetuel
This perpetual calendar is certainly one of the cleanest of its kind on the market. And I must admit to feeling a little crush come over me when I held it in my own hands and even tried it on. The 2020 F.P. Journe Quantième Perpetuel ditches the brand’s Octa look introduced in 2013 in favor of pure classicism, and the refined visual change makes a huge difference in my opinion.
Quick Facts F.P. Journe 2020 Quantième Perpetuel
Case: 40 or 42 x 11 mm, 6N red gold or platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber 1300.3 with pink gold bridges and plates, 160-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; instantaneous perpetual calendar with large date, day, month, leap year; power reserve indication
Price: CHF 66,400 (gold), CHF 70,000 (platinum)
Double-wristing modern Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox models
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, 2020 has been about the Master Control collection, and nestled within the deluge of Master Control models two very different Memovox watches have emerged, much to the delight of fans of both Jaeger-LeCoultre and the classic Memovox.
Double-wristing a couple of modern Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox models
One is a classic Master Control Memovox styled just like the new Master Control models: classic, steel, moderately sized, and moderately priced. Just the way a lot of people like their JLCs.
The other is a funky, blue-themed limited edition that has seemed to capture the hearts of, well, everyone. And one big reason is that it has a super cool timer function added.
Both new models feature the brand-new open case backs and refined gongs defining the Memovox going forward. The sound is sublime.
You may also enjoy Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces A New Generation Of Master Control Models: Date, Calendar, Chronograph Calendar, And Geographic.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox
Case: 40 x 12.39 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 956AA, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 45-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, alarm
Price: €11,600
Remark: up to 8-year warranty
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer
Case: 40 x 12.39 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 956AA, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 45-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, alarm, countdown timer
Limitation: 250 pieces
Price: €15,700
Remark: up to 8-year warranty
Czapek & Cie. Place Vendôme Dark Matter
Czapek has continued releasing watches throughout 2020, beginning with the unbelievably popular new Antarctique collection and probably not ending with the latest Dark Matter in the Place Vendôme collection.
Czapek & Cie. Place Vendôme Dark Matter on the wrist of Martin Green
Seeing this watch on a sunny morning in Geneva from a terrace overlooking the famed Jet d’Eau, Ian photographed it beautifully on Martin Green’s wrist. I find the various black tones from the black enamel and PVD coating really pop out here. The textures are incredible.
Quick Facts Czapek Place Vendôme Dark Matter
Case: 43.5 mm, grade 5 titanium with ADLC coating
Movement: manually wound Caliber SXH2 with one-minute tourbillon, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; second time zone, day/night indicator, power reserve indication
Limitation: 10 pieces
Price: CHF 90,000 / €98,000
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds
Martin Green is in love with the “Matrix Green” fumé dial of the brand-new non-chronograph version of Moser’s popular Streamliner, first introduced in the late fall of 2019.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds on the wrist of Martin Green
Martin describes this watch as incorporating a generous dash of 1970s sex appeal. And his relaxed way of wearing it during our appointment at Geneva Watch Days certainly reflects his verdant feelings on the matter.
Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds
Case: 40 x 9.9 mm (height without crystal), stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber HMC 200 with Straumann hairspring, three-day power reserve; 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 18-karat gold oscillating weight
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: 19,900 Swiss francs / $21,900
Greubel Forsey Balancier S
Following up on the popular GMT Sport of late fall 2019, Greubel Forsey has decided it rather likes the sporty new style of case introduced with that watch. And the watch-buying public for these pieces seems to like it too.
Greubel Forsey Balancier S wristshot
The wrist of our hand model, Martin Green, also seems to enjoy the sporty new Greubel Forsey Balancier S as you can see here. It wears very well despite what can only be described as a hefty size on paper. Even my tiny wrist did well with it. Bravo!
Quick Facts Greubel Forsey Balancier S
Case: 45 x 15.6 mm; titanium; 100 m water resistance
Movement: manual winding movement with 30-degree inclined balance wheel; variable inertia balance, titanium bridges, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency; 72-hour power reserve, twin coaxial serially operating fast-rotating spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indication
Limitation: 18 pieces
Price: CHF 195,000
Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar with Sepia Brown Dial
A visit to the Vacheron Constantin boutique allowed us to personally handle all the beautiful delicacies that have come out so far in 2020 – a real treat!
Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar with Sepia Brown Dial on the wrist of safely masked Martin Green
This wristshot of Martin wearing not only his mask – the boutique justifiably had very strict measures in place – but also the FiftySix Complete Calendar Sepia Brown enchanted me. It seems to encapsulate the very safe, distanced, yet fun week we shared in Geneva with our friends from the watch industry.
For more on this model, please see 2 New Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Models With Vintage-Vibe Sepia Brown Dial For 2020.
Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar
Case: 40 x 11.6 mm, red gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 2460 QCL/1, power reserve 40 hours; Geneva Seal, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, weekday, month, moon phase
Price: $33,700/€30,300, only available through Vacheron Constantin boutiques
For more on what the Quill & Pad team thought of these and other watches and the fair in general, please see Geneva Watch Days 2020 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This COVID-19-Friendly Fair (Warning: Photo Fest!).
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At last, the enigmatic new Journe QP. Nice photo, looks great.
It’s a beautiful watch. I think my heart skipped a beat.
I think it’s my favourite current production Perpetual Calendar anywhere – that exact model pictured (for me it’s got the ‘Goldilocks’ dial and case; the platinum is too cold, and I’m not a fan of the white windows on the boutique blue models). A dream piece. Definite visual improvement over the quatrefoil dial, and there’s just no improving on the user-friendliness of the movement, so glad he kept it.
A rubber strap on a Greubel Forsey surely that is a sin punishable by beheading or some such appropriate punishment. If K-Mart were still in business I would say they were the supplier of the strap.
Have you seen the rubber strap in real?
I like rubber straps very much,makes the watch so wearable and it gives a very casual look without making it look cheap,(if you find the right strap,as always) so no sin in my eyes for GF to use it ,in fact I encourage .