H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon in Wyoming Jade and Gold
by Martin Green
It’s a personal thing, but a lot of watches with an integrated bracelet that made waves when they were launched because they were in stainless steel, I prefer in gold.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak? Give me the one in full yellow gold. Patek Philippe’s Nautilus? In gold, please. Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas? I think the gold models look the best.
This is not because I only like gold watches, quite on the contrary, but I think that gold on a sports watch, especially the segments that are brushed, looks so good. Additionally, I like the heft.
When H. Moser & Cie launched its first Streamliner model in 2020, the stainless steel Flyback Chronograph, I was a fan. What made me a fan was that the brand took an original approach to dig into the still-growing market of sports watches with an integrated bracelet.
Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
Moser created a case that fits in their already established collection and added a bracelet that doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Instead, it is a design that flows, one that you want to let your finger run over, to feel the smoothness of the case as it nearly unnoticeably goes over into the bracelet.
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Gold kept in check
Things got even better when Moser decided that what they could do in stainless steel, they could do in gold. As this meant quite a price hike, why not add a flying tourbillon for good measure?
The result is precious, but also strangely understated as most of the case and bracelet of the Streamliner Tourbillon is brushed.
You know it’s gold, but somehow your mind registers it differently because the typical shine and luster of this precious metal is toned down and kept in check.
One of the things I admire about Moser is that they seem to design each and every individual watch. This sounds like a given, but quite often, a general design of a watch is only changed in terms of color and materials, and a new addition to the collection is born.
Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
This becomes evident when we compare the Streamliner Tourbillon with a jade dial with the version that features the Vantablack dial, which was introduced in 2022.
H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack with red gold case and bracelet
While Moser gave the latter model hour markers for each hour, except for six o’clock as there the cut out for the flying tourbillon got in the way, the Jade version only has hour markers at three, nine, and twelve o’clock.
What seems like a minor detail, isn’t as it gives the natural beauty of the Jade more space to shine, while the hour markers on the deep, dark Vantablack dial offer more contrast. This makes you experience each of the different materials more intensely.
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Wyoming Jade
While Jade is often associated with the Far East, where it is highly valued, this is not the only place where it can be found. Moser is using Jade from the US State of Wyoming, which is rich in minerals: opal, agate, petrified wood, and peridot of high quality are also found there.
Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
Jade is translucent by nature, especially when it is cut as thin as is needed for a dial, so Moser attach them to metal plates, making them more robust and also easier to process further into their final shape. The color of the Jade from Wyoming is quite vibrant green, almost like fresh growing grass. This offers quite a contrast to the 5N red gold from which the case and bracelet are crafted.
A sporty touch is added by the hands, featuring a typical Moser design, with inserts of Globolight, ensuring great legibility under all circumstances.
Other brands take note
There are a few things on which I consider Moser one of the trailblazers, and one is water resistance. The Streamliner is undoubtedly a casual sporty creation, yet it’s no dive watch, and in this very precious configuration with the gold case and bracelet, stone dial, and flying tourbillon, many will approach it as a more substantial dress watch.
However, it is still 120 meters water resistant. Moser could have cut a few corners here, safe some time, effort, costs, and possible headaches in getting a watch like this water resistant, but they didn’t.
To me, that is the approach of a brand that is not just in the business of delivering tantalizing luxury watches but also wants to deliver enduring quality.
Increased water resistance will make this Streamliner much more enduring and robust, also offering its owners the freedom to enjoy it without nearly a worry, or it would be for people who want to take what is not theirs.
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Another aspect in which I applaud Moser, is the way that they construct their movements. The Caliber HMC 804 powering this Streamliner is nothing new, yet it still impresses with its robust architecture, flying tourbillon with double hairspring, and a generous power reserve of 72 hours.
Back of the Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
The oscillating weight is, in some positions, obstructing the beauty of the movement, but it makes up for this by being crafted from a solid piece of nicely finished 18K gold, which is .
While there is no option for micro-adjustment, as this is very difficult to incorporate in an integrated bracelet and maintain a solid look, Moser does offer half-links to get a good fit of the watch.
It is no secret that stone dials are tough to make. Not only does the initial stone need to be of exceptional quality, but cutting dials out of them, as well as drilling the holes for the tourbillon and assembling the hour markers, can result in an extensive fail rate.
For each dial, a slice of the original stone is cut measuring just a millimeter thick. Then, under light, a part of the stone is selected to obtain the most pleasing look for the dial. There are many steps where something can go wrong or that the quality is not at the desired level, and it often will.
It is therefore admirable that Moser is making one hundred pieces of the Streamliner Tourbillon with its jade dial. This is also good news for those of us who can’t (or don’t want to) afford one, as this increases the chances of seeing this stunning watch in the wild.
For more information, please visit https://h-moser.com/product/streamliner-tourbillon-6804-0406/
Quick Facts: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
Case: 40 mm x 12.1 mm, 5N red gold case
Water resistance: 120 meters
Movement: automatic Caliber HMC 804, 72-hour power reserve, Straumann double hairspring, 2.5 Hz, one-minute flying tourbillon
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: CHF 109,000
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As the proud owner of a Rose Gold JLC Geophysic 1958 I approve of 100m + WR precious metal watches.
Cheers to that and glad to read that I am not the only one who finds this important.