Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, the New World’s Thinnest Mechanical Wristwatch: Expect the Unexpected
Planning and preparation are hallmarks of any great company, government, or adventure party. The Boy Scout motto is “Always Be Prepared,” or “Be Prepared” depending on where you grew up, and great thinkers and writers throughout history have echoed the basic wisdom of the value of preparation.
Statue of Seneca in Córdoba, Spain (photo courtesy PRA/Wikipedia)
Ancient stoic philosopher Seneca the Younger said “Whatever can happen at any time can happen today,” and “If you would not have a man flinch when the crisis comes, train him before it comes.”
Another of his quotes continues, “The best…is he who has well and carefully trained himself… and watches keenly for an opportunity of practicing” which can be simplified to the modern quote “luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity.”
Eighteen hundred years after Seneca, scientist Louis Pasteur similarly stated that “chance favors only the prepared mind,” clearly channeling this idea. It seems as though preparation and planning are understood to be one of the keys to success in all things, just as much as skill or perseverance.
In some cases, however, it takes a long time to begin planning due to circumstances beyond your control, but that does not necessarily mean you have failed to prepare.
To quote another famous proverb, “The best time to plant a tree is twenty years ago, the second best time is today,” meaning that it’s never too late to start preparing, even if you haven’t started anything yet.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
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In my mind, this is the most useful thing to remember in a world with unlimited distractions and demands on our time, we can only do what we can do, but we also have the choice every day to start something new.
Ideas for new inventions often start like this, a thought that becomes an intent to create, only to be distracted and pulled into the rest of life’s stressors. Weeks, months, or years later the idea resurfaces, and suddenly time and circumstances allows it to become your main focus, and something wonderful finally becomes real.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
That brings us to Konstantin Chaykin, a watchmaker of great renown and a healthy dose of whimsy. Approximately twenty years ago the spark was born for what would eventually become an unexpected addition to his already incredible collection of horological inventions, the world’s thinnest ever mechanical wristwatch.
Wristmon style dial of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Yes, you read that right, Konstantin Chaykin, creator of the adorable Wristmons and a horological bonanza with over 150 patents to his name, decided to apply his considerable talent to producing the newest world record for the thinnest mechanical wristwatch.
In a very humble move he decided to call it the ThinKing, a play on the English word “thinking,” and, for the time being, it definitely makes Chaykin the king of thin.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing on the wrist
So how thin is it? The total thickness is 1.65 mm, beating the previous record holder, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, by just 0.05 mm. That may seem like small potatoes, but when we are working at the edges of functional horology, a 3% reduction in thickness is very impressive on its own.
But of course, Konstantin Chaykin likes to do things a little differently than his Swiss peers, so the ThinKing doesn’t use the same mechanical architecture favored by the previous record holders Piaget, Bulgari, or Richard Mille, though there are some similarities.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing on the wrist
The watch is designed to resemble his now famous Wristmons, using the hour and minute dials as eyes on a face, his logo becomes the nose, and his name is etched in a semi-circle to create a smile that is sure to make you smile too.
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Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
From head-on, the case shape looks fairly typical for a Wristmons, even if the only windows to read the time are the two small eyes at the top of the case. The rest is a wide swath of steel, with minor cutaways for the logo, name, and “lugs” to give it a little depth, but otherwise completely flat.
Jewels visible on the back of the untra-thin Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Flipping it over we see another wide plane of steel, this time dotted with 17 jewel holes (all set with gold chatons), a square winding hole and separate time setting hole to be used with a key, 14 case screws, and the most simple and creative use of laser etching I have ever seen.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, the world’s thinnest mechanical wristwatch
Instead of some fancy design, a bunch of model information, or a philosophical quote, almost the entire mechanical gear train has been engraved to give you a glimpse as to what is inside. This provides two very functional benefits for the watch.
First, it allows the case to fully, and rigidly, support the gear train on both sides to prevent issues with the case flexing and stopping the movement and, since there is no need to see into the movement and provide extra space for a large crystal, the thickness can be reduced even more.
This uses the same thought process as Richard Mille who avoided exposing the entire movement with a crystal and chose to encapsulate the mechanics inside the case shell for extra rigidity.
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Building on techniques
Yet the biggest difference between Richard Mille and Konstantin Chaykin is that Richard Mille designed the movement to be separate from the case, much more like a traditional ebauch, which added a lot of strength and stability to that watch.
Being a brand built on racing and extreme mechanics has its drawbacks, and designing for extreme strength is a limiting factor on thinness.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
The ThinKing had no such limitation, and using methods pioneered by Piaget and Bulgari to use the case front and back as integral parts of the movement aided in slimming things down even further.
Utilizing both approaches helped Chaykin develop a model that takes the best of each concept and lays a solid foundation for the thinnest watch in the world. Each method has its constraints, so to go further there needs to be a place for innovation. For the ThinKing, there are lots of places for innovation.
Simply pushing the boundaries a bit further on what has already been done, the easiest way to shave off a tiny amount of thickness can be seen on the rear of the case. Those 17 visible jewels mounted in gold chatons are not something EVER seen outside of the movement neatly sealed away in a case.
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As both Bulgari and Piaget know, when the case back is also the mainplate of the movement, it means that all the jewels are mounted directly into this structure.
The simplest solution is to leave a very thin skin of metal at the bottom of the pivot holes where jewels will be pressed, sealing the movement inside of the outer shell.
Back of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
But it is also possible, as Chaykin has realized, to eliminate this thin skin of metal (making the case back just that much thinner) and pressing the chatons and cap jewels to be nearly flush with the outside of the case.
With the tolerances and precise fit of these components already controlled down to the micron, this is more than enough to make the case sealed from any outside dust if the goal isn’t to make the movement submersible.
It will be way more than dustproof like the early wristwatches, and saves valuable thickness where it can. These jewels are still sub-flush with the exterior surface so it’s possible that Chaykin could have thinned out the case even more, but as with everything in ultra-thin watches, there has to be a balance of functionality and going thinner.
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True innovation
Now that you see how Konstantin Chaykin pushed the boundaries by combining competing techniques of Bulgari, Piaget, and Richard Mille, now we come to see where Chayking truly moved the needle with some innovation.
Outside of having to develop a new gear train from scratch (something Chaykin does for most of his pieces anyway), the real innovation is centered in four main areas: the balance, the mainspring barrel, the strap, and very surprisingly, the case support mechanism. Don’t worry if that last one isn’t clear, we’ll dive into that in just a minute.
Let’s begin with the strap as it is the first thing you will likely interact with when handling this watch. Understanding that the simple act of wearing the watch could introduce stresses on a watch this thin, Chaykin set out to make a strap that absorbs any flex or expansion due to wrist movement.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing on the wrist
The alligator leather makes up both ends of each section of the strap, but then in the middle is sewn an elastic band that allows the strap to stretch when needed. On its own this greatly reduced any pressure on the case from a strap that is a bit tight or being stretched by the daily flexing of your wrist.
On top of that, the end of each strap does not contain a standard spring bar, as the strap is not attached normally. When looking at the rear of the watch, each lug has a tiny individual plate that is screwed on to secure the strap at all four corners.
Inside the strap is a piece of flexible titanium that interfaces with these mounting points to ensure that it is securely mounted to the watch and does not become a new stress point. Since the patent is currently pending on this invention it is unclear exactly what this titanium insert looks like, but there are a variety of ways to make a strong yet flexible strip of titanium for this purpose.
For the next two innovations we move inside the case to find the mainspring barrel (if you can call it that anymore) and the new balance. The mainspring barrel is pretty much no longer a barrel but a gear ring with a mainspring nested inside, no lid and no bottom either. The ratchet wheel is internal to the mainspring arbor which sits centered in the mainspring as a custom insert.
That arbor insert contains the ratchet pawl and integrated spring and greatly simplifies any part stack that could add thickness to the winding assembly. This allows for the entire assembly to essentially be on a single level instead of the five levels of a typical mechanism.
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Let’s link up
It’s truly an efficient design, and one that I would love to see implemented on other watches to compare the performance long term to a traditional assemblies.
Components of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Mainsprings are often one of the main components that makes movements thick (aside from balance assemblies). This methodology could take every movement and gain valuable room to either slim down a caliber or add other fun things to it. It would be best to combine with an ultra-thin balance assembly, which is the third major innovation for the ThinKing.
Obvious to any movement designer, a balance assembly is tall due to the number of components that are employed to create the modern precision timekeeper. With the shock protection, regulator, impulse jewel, balance, hairspring, and pivots, things can become complicated.
Thinning them out can only work so well, until you need to change where some things exist to keep the balance on as few levels as possible. Konstantin Chaykin reduced his regulator assembly into two levels by splitting the components in two.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing split regulator compared to a standard regulator
The balance wheel rim, hairspring, and regulator stud are mounted on one pivot axis with an outer set of gear teeth machined into the rim. The impulse jewel is combined with a second geared balance wheel rim that meshes with the first one, with its own pivot axis.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing split regulator
This side of the balance assembly engages with the pallet fork to release the escapement, while the other simply oscillates back and forth. This linked system of gears allows the total height of the assembly to drastically reduced and spread across unused space in the diameter of the main plate.
While the general concept of a double balance with linked teeth is not inherently new, it has never been used in such a way to distribute the functions of the balance assembly and reduce thickness to a minimum.
Previous dual balance designs were always intended to explore rate stabilization as an alternative to resonance, not in such a unique (and patent pending) way.
But if you think that link is amazing, Chaykin has one final trick up the ThinKing sleeve, and that is the external secondary carrier case named the PalanKing. This invention is all about practicality for the end user.
The ThinKing watch has the ability to manually wind the mainspring and set the time with a square key, meaning it is a fully self-contained timepiece. But in case you are a little hesitant to interact with the movement so directly, or you like the idea of a bit more traditional interface with the watch, this is where the PalanKing comes into play.
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Details with you in mind
It is an automatic or manual winding mechanism and manual time setting mechanism that replicates the traditional crown-based interface that the ThinKing can be inserted into to wind and set the watch.
The outer case carrier, the PalanKing, has a press button to retract four small hooks that engage with small notches on the side of the ThinKing case, allowing the watch to be seated and connected (the hooks are also angled so the watch could simply be pressed into place).
Once inserted, you can choose to wear the combined assembly and let an automatic winding rotor wind the watch, or you can choose to use the crown to manually wind it as well. The time setting can also be achieved using the crown if desired, creating two methods of interfacing with the ThinKing.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
The PalanKing has two square key protrusions from the face which engage with the winding and setting holes in the rear of the ThinKing, meaning it is as simple as snap in and go. Of course, if you previously chose to manually wind and set using the key, there will need to be adjustment to ensure the square protrusions line up with the holes on the PalanKing, but if that is your standard method of interface then it should be immediately lined up.
It is this completely unnecessary addition to the ThinKing that demonstrates how inclusively Konstantin Chaykin is when designing a watch. One could argue that the PalanKing is an accessibility device for those that may want the watch but would be unable to manipulate it well enough to operate it, and that is no small feature in an industry that often ignores ableist design.
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But even if you are fully capable of using the manual key that comes with the watch, the pragmatism of the PalanKing must be applauded.
Plate of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Ultra-thin watches are, at this point, pretty far from being practical as they are bordering on paper-thin. But if you want to chase records yet still make the watch wearable, these are the things that must be considered.
Konstantin Chaykin has never been one to avoid a challenge, but the allure of ultra-thin was not an immediate idea when he first saw an incredible ultra-thin pocket watch caliber signed Aug. Golay Leresche à Genève and dating from the mid-19th century. That 1 mm thick movement was made long before modern equipment, so Chaykin new it was possible.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
But life and capabilities meant that he stored that concept away while he worked on other projects, built his brand, and greatly expanded his capabilities. It was only after two decades or hard work, and being asked about the difficulty of making an ultra-thin watch in 2023, did he finally pursue the task.
I would suggest that his perseverance and preparation of those 20 years laid the foundation for his success with the ThinKing.
I would never had expected Konstantin Chaykin to attempt this endeavor, mainly because it seemed like such a fools errand for anyone not already in the race or not already known for wild attempts at new horology (like Richard Mille, another surprise at the time).
But I guess that his appearance, and incredible success, shows that we must always expect the unexpected in the watch industry, because an unlikely champion can truly come from anywhere.
To be clear, I was never under any delusions that Chaykin would not have been capable, his previous inventions show that he is a powerhouse of horological creativity.
But he is also such a humble watchmaker (the best often are) and likes to quietly and repeatedly blow us all away with what he creates, so I find myself surprised by him time and again.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
I guess this should be my final warning to never underestimate a man that has been inventing for decades and has the skills and preparation to always find success, because the ThinKing is truly a humbly fantastic world record holder.
I’ll still be a bit careful not to destroy it, however, when I break this down!
- Wowza Factor *9.7 World records are amazing, especially for the thinnest mechanical watches. This continues to amaze and astonish and will elicit many Wowza’s in any room its in.
- Late Night Lust Appeal * 94.9 » 951.245m/s2 The pure astonishment of seeing how its designed and made is more than enough force to keep me lusting until the sun comes up!
- M.G.R. * 71.1 Ultra-Thin movements are so incredibly impressive that the only thing to keep this from getting a perfect score is the fact that it is still just a single prototype!
- Added-Functionitis * N/A It’s a world record time only watch so no need for Gotta-HAVE-That cream yet there could be accidental contact dermatitis from the awesomazing thinness!
- Ouch Outline * 12.5 Falling head first into a tree branch! Shoes wear out, especially hiking shoes. There will come a time when you push yours too far and the lack of traction causes a slip and if you are unlucky you could tumble right into a tree. Still I would happily risk it for this ThinKing on my wrist!
- Mermaid Moment * Look at that incredible balance design! I will always love innovation in ultra-thin watches, but most importantly, I will be madly in love when watchmakers find thinness in an way I wouldn’t have guessed!
- Awesome Total * 4.95 Start with the world record thickness of the watch in millimeters (1.65), then multiply by the number of patents in the watch (3) then multiply with how many of the pieces currently exist (1) to find an awesome total that is so small it mirrors the achievement of this watch!
For more information, please visit https://chaykin.ru/collections/watches/wristmons/thinking/.
Quick Facts Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
Case: 40 x 1.65 mm, stainless steel
Carrier Case: 45 x 5.4 mm, stainless steel
Movement: manually wound ultra-thin K.23-0 caliber, 32-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5Hz double balance with gear clutch (patent pending)
Auxiliary Movement: PalanKing automatic winding K.23-1 caliber
Functions: Hours, minutes
Secondary Functions: PalanKing – automatic winding, manual winding, manual time set of ThinKing
Limitation: Piece Unique
Price: N/A – Prototype
You might also enjoy:
Why I Bought It: Konstantin Chaykin Joker
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra: Seemingly Both Impossibly Thin and Impossibly Deep
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths
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I like this one much more than the other brand where they had put this giant QR code on the face of the watch! Which is very ugly! Poor design. They made the QR code the biggest part of the design on the face of the watch. Horrible thinking. Less IS more. Like this watch proves.
They completely ruined an amazing machine with that awful decision. Someone should have lost their annual bonus for that. And perhaps a spanking.