恭喜发财 / 恭喜發財 (Gōngxǐ fācái)
It is now traditional for watchmakers to observe Chinese New Year by creating beautiful, decorative, limited edition timepieces adorned with some symbolic depiction of the appropriate sign of the Chinese zodiac – often using rare artistic techniques to pay tribute to the eastern calendar.
The Year of the Rat – which begins the 12-year zodiac cycle, thus representing renewal – begins on January 25, 2020.
Contrary to the western Gregorian calendar, which uses the solar day as its base unit, the traditional Chinese calendar is lunisolar, meaning it uses a solar calendar with the lunar cycle (29.53059 days) as its base unit.
One year comprising 12 lunar months (354.36707 days) is approximately 11 days too short compared with the solar year (365.242374 days), so a leap month is sometimes added. As each month of the Chinese calendar (including leap months) begins on the day of new moon, its length is either 29 or 30 days.
This means that when a year includes a leap month, it will be a 13-month year. On the other side, a year comprising 12 lunar months is shorter than the solar year.
The irregular year length comprising 12 or 13 months is the reason behind the variable date of Chinese New Year.
To celebrate the annual event, some high-end manufacturers have created special editions depicting some form of the resourceful rodent. Let’s have a look at eight of them.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat diamond-set (left) and Petite Heure Minute Relief Rat
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat
Jaquet Droz has authentic historic ties to China, making this type of limited edition a natural fit for the brand as well as a real feast for the eyes of watch lovers thanks to the brand’s predilections for artistic crafts.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat with diamonds
The first two variations of the Petite Heure Minute Rat depict two friendly-looking rats on a bed of leaves dotted with pomegranate seeds, a fruit regarded as a symbol of life and fertility (thanks to the many seeds found in just one fruit).
Painting the enamel dial of the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat
Both the 35 mm diamond-set variation and the 39 mm version with gold bezel are relatively unisex thanks to their beautifully displayed miniature painted motifs within an elegant sober framework.
For more information, please visit www.jaquet-droz.com/en/news/jaquet-droz-celebrates-the-new-chinese-zodiac-cycle-four-exclusive-creations.
Quick Facts Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat
Case: 39 x 12.23 mm, 18-karat red gold
Dial: ivory-colored high-fire enamel with miniature painting
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.P with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: $30,200
Quick Facts Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rat diamond-set
Case: 35 x 10.75 mm, 18-karat red gold set with 232 diamonds (1.23 ct)
Dial: ivory-colored high-fire enamel with miniature painting
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.P with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: $37,100
Jaquet Droz Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Rat
The Relief versions of the Petite Heure Minute Rat come in 41 mm red or white gold cases, and the dials of them are exquisite, showing a relief-engraved rat holding a pomegranate seed in its paws.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Rat
In both variations, the pomegranate on the far left side of the dial have snow-set rubies for seeds, while the rat holds a much bigger brilliant-cut seed while staring at a branch of gold pomegranates.
This beautifully arranged scene is set against the backdrop of a jet-black onyx.
The diamonds of the white-gold version are set in an interesting double-row manner along the dial flange and on the lugs.
Quick Facts Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Rat
Case: 41 x 13.77 mm, 18-karat red gold
Dial: onyx dial, gold rat and pomegranate appliqués set with rubies
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.Si with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: $69,300
Quick Facts Petite Heure Minute Relief Rat
Case: 41 x 13.77 mm, 18-karat white gold set with 272 diamonds (1.16 ct)
Dial: onyx dial, gold and pomegranate appliqués set with rubies
Movement: automatic Caliber 2653.Si with balance spring and pallet fork in silicon; 68-hour power reserve via double spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: $79,600
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rat
In an annual limited edition called Legend of the Chinese Zodiac, Vacheron Constantin’s artistic tribute to the Chinese New Year is based on the idea of a Chinese paper cutting art form called jianzhi.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rat
A motif engraved into the gold dial using a bas relief technique representing flowering foliage (in this case pomegranates!) stemming from Chinese iconography makes for a lovely background. After engraving, high-fire enamel is added in layers that are successively fired in a kiln.
The dial provides a calendar in the truest sense of the word: its four windows respectively show the current hours, minutes, day, and date. The placement of these windows in each of the four corners allows the beautiful arts to take place of pride on the dial, pushing the time to a secondary position – as it should be when we look at and consider art.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rat
These watches are powered by automatic Caliber 2460 G4, which forms the basis of the brand’s various Métiers d’Art collection pieces – most recently the fabulous Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers and Les Mécaniques Sauvages. Caliber 2460 G4 was introduced in 2005 in honor of Vacheron Constantin’s 250-year celebration (see How Vacheron Constantin Celebrated Its 250th Anniversary In 2005), bringing with it a technology the brand calls “dragging” and jumping disks, which indicate the hours, minutes, day, and date in small windows in the corners of the dial.
For more information, please visit www.vacheron-constantin.com/en/watches/metiers-d-art/metiers-d-art-the-legend-of-the-chinese-zodiac-year-of-the-rat.
Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rat
Case: 40 x 12.74 mm, 18-karat pink gold or platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber 2460 G4, 40-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, Geneva Seal
Dial: 18-karat gold, hand-engraved, high-fire enamel, hand-engraved platinum or gold pig
Functions: hours, minutes; weekday, date (all shown in windows)
Limitation: 12 pieces of each variation, available only in Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: upon request
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rat
The annual Chopard L.U.C. XP horological tribute to the Chinese New Year combines arts, crafts, and technology originating in Switzerland, China, and Japan: Chopard Manufacture’s L.U.C XP model with its ultra-thin movement; Japanese expertise in lacquer; and China’s zodiacal symbolism.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rat
To achieve this artwork using urushi lacquer, Chopard cooperated with Yamada Heiando, which was founded in 1919 and counts the Japanese emperor and his family among its loyal customers.
Hand painting the dial of a Chopard L.U.C. XP Urushi Year of the Rat
For more information, please visit www.chopard.com/intl/exceptional-watches/metiers-d-art/l-u-c-xp-urushi-year-of-the-rat.
Quick Facts Chopard L.U.C. XP Urushi Year of the Rat
Case: 39.5 x 6.8 mm, pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber L.U.C 96.17-L with micro rotor; 65-hour power reserve via twin spring barrels
Dial: hand-painted urushi lacquer
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 88 pieces, available only in Chopard boutiques
Price: $24,600/CHF 23,860
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar
On this timepiece’s busy dial, the Gregorian calendar rubs shoulders with the main indications of the Chinese calendar, which include a traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, the five elements, and the ten celestial stems. The latter along with the 12 animals of the zodiac follow the sixty-year cycle that is central to Chinese culture.
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar
The depiction of moon phases is a key element in Blancpain’s complete calendars, and this is naturally present at 6 o’clock. Opposite that, at 12 o’clock, there is a small rat representing this year’s Zodiac animal.
For more information, please visit www.blancpain.com/en/category/complications/traditional-chinese-calendar.
Quick Facts Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar
Case: 45 x 15 mm, platinum with ruby cabochon in crown or red gold, five under-lug correctors to adjust indications
Dial: grand feu enamel
Movement: automatic Blancpain Caliber 3638 with 7-day power reserve; 464 components including 39 jewels
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; traditional Chinese calendar with double-hour indication, signs of the zodiac, date, month of the Chinese calendar, indication of the five elements, the celestial stems and the leap months; Gregorian calendar with date, moon phases
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: $87,800
Blancpain Métiers d’Art Porcelaine
This timepiece represents the very first porcelain dial made in Blancpain’s own Le Brassus workshop after an entire year of development. Marked by long drying and firing phases, porcelain is a material that necessitates patience as well as skill.
Blancpain Métiers d’Art Porcelaine
This edition combines the arts of making porcelain with miniature painting. Each of the eight dials are painted freehand, meaning without a stencil or pre-drawing – which makes each dial a unique work of art.
One of the reasons Blancpain opted to use porcelain instead of enamel is the ability to intensify the colors – particularly of what I assume is once again a depiction of pomegranate seeds – thanks to the higher firing temperatures, something not possible with enamels on a gold dial blank.
For more information, please visit www.blancpain.com.
Quick Facts Blancpain Métiers d’Art Porcelaine
Case: 33.2 x 9.15 mm, white gold set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel
Dial: miniature freehand painting on porcelain
Movement: automatic Caliber 1154 with 100-day power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 8 pieces, each a one-of-a-kind
Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac
Anita Porchet, a master of the enamel art form (and Gaïa Award winner), once again created the dial for Piaget’s Chinese zodiac-themed timepiece. Here she used the cloisonné enamel technique to stage a pair of glorious rodents looking off into the new year in delicate grey tones.
Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac
For more information, please visit www.piaget.com/watches/white-gold-diamond-ultra-thin-mechanical-watch.
Quick Facts Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac
Case: 38 mm, white gold set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct)
Movement: manually wound Piaget Caliber 430P, ultra-thin
Dial: grand feu cloisonné enamel
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 38 pieces, available only in Piaget boutiques
Price: $61,500
Perrelet Turbine Rat
Perrelet makes use of its unique rotor on the dial to create an interesting effect: when the functionless rotor spins quickly, it reveals a pattern on the background visible through the slats of the propeller-like anodized aluminum blades at high speed.
Perrelet Turbine Rat
In this case, the pattern is a stylized gold-colored rat placed at 6 o’clock, eminently visible against the bright red dial backdrop contrasting ever so conspicuously against the stealth-black frame of the case.
Dial of the Perrelet Turbine Rat
Another rat alongside its Chinese character – this time in an intense red – is placed on the blade that settles at 3 o’clock. The slightest movement of the wrist sets these counterbalanced blades into a spin – a fascinating sight.
For more information, please visit www.perrelet.com/en/watches/turbine.
Quick Facts Perrelet Turbine Rat
Case: 44 x 13 mm, stainless steel coated with black PVD
Movement: automatic Caliber P-331, 42-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Dial: red with golden rat and 12 rotor blades that spin quickly
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: CHF 5,180
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