At the 2017 SIHH in Geneva I particularly liked the Carré des Horlogers, as the SIHH independents’ hall is known, which showcases some of the industry’s finest creative minds producing amazing watches, both traditional and contemporary. So without further ado, here are my SIHH highlights, most of which come from that hall.
Several years ago, Breguet quietly introduced a complicated vintage-style pocket watch into its collection: the Reference 1907 Classique Grande Complication. It displays the time in regulator style, chimes the time in the form of a minute repeater with grande sonnerie, and provides extra precision thanks to the one-minute tourbillon. So where does the reference number 1907 come from? That’s a mystery, for sure. And while I have no official explanation, I can make an educated guess. So I will.
Eight years ago, Vacheron Constantin began building a mechanical work of art destined to become the world’s most complicated watch under the aegis of its bespoke watch division.
Atelier Cabinotiers offers connoisseurs the chance to commission a custom-made watch according to their own tastes and designs (but within the boundaries of the brand’s style). Reference 57260 came into being thanks to one of the world’s foremost collectors, a great connoisseur of horological art. This collector specifically requested that Vacheron Constantin create world’s most complicated timepiece for him.
At a preview before a Christie’s watch auction in Geneva, I found myself particularly attracted to this impeccable Louis Audemars pocket watch. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, and moon phase function, and is from circa 1880. It is 135 years old and doesn’t show a single wrinkle!
Sometimes persistence pays off. After a few well-placed questions, the shopkeeper brought out a relatively innocent looking skeletonized pocket watch. With a wry smile, he suggested that the buyer take a look at the tiny lug, leaving my friend flabbergasted. “G.N. Papi No.1” is a clear reference to Giulio Papi. The legendary watch industry figure who leads Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi and now my friend has stumbled across what could be his very first timepiece from 1984.
This stunning diamond-encrusted minute repeater pocket watch is thought to be over 100 years old (circa 1910). An incredible 450 brilliant-cut diamonds ,over 16 carats in total, cover the case and covers with yellow gold accents on the crown, cover hinges and ring add a contemporary touch.