JM: After a couple years of COVID-19, I wasn’t surprised the ceremony would be back to normal, and in general it did seem to be. Though off to a slow start that was attributed to construction in the parking garage (was that actually true?), the show got rolling and was generally kept to a good pace.

ED: The ceremony was absolutely back to normal, and the Théâtre du Léman in the lower level of the Fairmont hotel was bursting at the seams with spectators from the watch industry! Whether the later start was due to the parking garage I couldn’t say . . . as part of the live audience, we didn’t get the play-by-play announcements. I do know people kept coming in well after the 18:30 starting time.

Tim and Bart Grönefeld (winner of Chronograph category) lifting Maximilian Büsser (winner of the Aiguille d’Or) in celebration at the 2022 GPHG

GG: Well done to the jury and Academy for this year’s GPHG choices! I found a great deal to like in the final selections and very little to criticize, especially as many of my personal favorites found their way to the victory podium.

MG: After the previous edition, which was heavily influenced by COVID-19 measures, the 2022 GPHG was finally again an event and a party as it should be! Toute le monde was in Geneva, celebrating watchmaking at its finest. It may just be me, but I didn’t think that there were a lot of surprises in this edition of the GPHG.

JM: I was once again late to tune in and thought I had missed a bunch as when I pulled up the livestream, Max Büsser was already on stage accepting an award for the M.A.D.1. As it turns out, logging on 59 minutes late was pretty much perfect as that was the first award of the night and I had been able to skip the small talk, introductions, and sluggish beginning to the GPHG. I watched it all later that evening, but I did not miss much of substance, which was a pleasant surprise.

Overall, the evening went smoothly though some presenters still spoke a bit too long and drew the ire of the host, but it was all interspersed with some humor and a very fun bit of sleight-of-hand magic that was much better than the previous year’s attempts at filling time between awards.

There was a very dicey moment when the host took Nick Foulkes’ pocket square and seemingly cut it up right in front of him, and for a moment the less-than-convincing acting of the host made me worry about the state of the silk square. That was all resolved later when the talented magician came out to magically “repair” the square to give it back.

ED: I found that bit hilarious and did wonder whether Nick was in on it or not. Knowing Nick pretty well, his facial expressions had me rolling in the aisle (much to the amusement of my seat neighbors Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV and Logan Baker of Hodinkee).

JM: Aside from this bit of heart trauma, I was pleased with the show and the winners, even if I didn’t do that well. In what seems to now be a pattern, I only accurately predicted six categories correctly, or approximately one-third of the winners.

I was only surprised by one winner overall but was more than pleased that many of my picks to win their category or a discretionary prize won, just not where I predicted them to win. If those count, then I predicted 11 winners out of 20, so a solid (be it accidental) 55 percent success rate for me. Most of the other winners were my selected runners up, so it seems I still am fairly well in tune with what the jury will like.

ED: I found that the watchmaker-heavy jury was pretty spot on, with me picking many more winning watches than in previous years (after my jury stint ended with the 2019 edition). From all the conversations I had in Geneva the following day, it seems most people were generally in accordance with the picks too. I did not hear the usual amount of grumbling following a ceremony.

I had ten spot-on predictions in the normal categories, while two of my non-winning picks were moved into discretionary categories. Not bad!

One thing I have to mention is that I think it’s a crying shame that Armin Strom once again did not win some sort of prize. It’s high time that amazing Mirrored Force Resonance watch got recognition!

IS: I agree 100% regarding Armin Strom, Elizabeth. I thought it was an excellent GPHG, perhaps the best for as long back as I can remember in terms of who won what.

GG: You read it here first: much as I would have loved to return to the jury in 2022, I don’t think I could have done a better job than this year’s selectors!

Ladies: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

JM: This was one of the categories I correctly predicted, and I’ll reiterate just how successful I think the Tonda PF collection has been. It is awesome it was honored for the Ladies category. That is where I think it stood out the most as the best in a category, and the jury seemed to agree.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic

ED: Congratulations, Joshua, on your keen predictive ability here. With five nominated watches in the running, all from the Tonda PF line, Parmigiani was bound to take at least one award home. This category was a bit up for grabs, so it made a lot of sense that it happened here. I was pleased to see Parmigiani recognized for this excellent everyday watch line too.

GG: I didn’t pick the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic in the Ladies’ category, but it’s a lovely watch and a fully deserving winner.

MG: I thought that Parmigiani would take this prize with the superb Tonda PF

IS: My predictions got off to a bad start as I thought that the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 would win here; however, the Parmigiani Tonda PF was my close runner up and a well-deserved winner.

Further reading: Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Steel And Platinum On-The-Wrist Review: A Contemporary Chameleon That Stands Out By Fitting In

Quick Facts Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatique
Case: 36 x 8.6 mm, ethical pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber PF310 with 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: CHF 49,500

Ladies Complication: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

GG: Some have grumbled a bit that the two versions of the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur won in the Ladies’ and Men’s Complication competitions, but it’s a super watch – and let’s remember that the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier was “promoted” to the Innovation prize, which opened the field for the Hermès timepiece to take the trophy in Ladies’ Complication.

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in a 38 mm steel case

IS: Some may have grumbled, Gary, but not me. I predicted that the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur would win both the Ladies’ and Men’s Complication categories and they did. It’s also worth noting that if a watch wins a discretionary prize that doesn’t necessarily mean that it would have won its nominated category.

MG: I wasn’t surprised that the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur took one category, but to win two (also Men’s Complication, see below) with basically the same watch says something about just how much it is appreciated.

JM: Not at all surprised by this result as the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur was my first runner up, and it truly is an awesome watch! The bigger sibling also won the Men’s Complication category later, which makes it the most successful individual model in the 2022 GPHG. I had predicted that Van Cleef & Arpels would win, but since that watch won the Innovation prize I’ll accept that as one of my correct* predictions.

ED: Same here, Joshua, though I did not count it in my correct predictions. Both of these timepieces were equally deserving, so I was very pleased for both makers having taken prizes home!

Further reading: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022)

Quick Facts Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Case: 38 x 12.41 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Hermès Caliber H1837 with Chronode module; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; worldtime, second time zone
Price: €18,000 / CHF 21,010

Men: Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II

JM: The Chronomètre Contemporain II is a marvelous piece, which I didn’t pick because I thought its predecessor had already scaled the peak of the Men’s category and it was better suited to have a go at the Aiguille d’Or. But I am elated that it won this category and Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi were honored once again for their skill, style, and incredible craftsmanship. I had picked it as my first runner up because I knew it had an incredibly good chance of winning so no disappointment here!

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) in pink gold with white enamel dial

ED: I felt this win in my bones with that watchmaker-heavy jury. And I still think it is incredibly well deserved!

IS: I thought that the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II was a shoo-in to win here, and while only the jury knows how close a call it was, a win is a win.

GG: It’s impossible to dispute the choice of the Akrivia RRCC II in Men’s; I only wish I’d had the chance to see the Sylvain Pinaud Origine in person as it took the Revelation prize.

Further reading:
Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar To Its Predecessor, Everything Is New

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre ContemporainAkrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain: A Fork In The Road, A Pivot, Or Something Else Entirely?

Quick Facts Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II
Case: 38 x 8.75 mm, platinum
Dial: black high-fire enamel dial with recessed subsidiary seconds dial in translucent grey enamel over a hand-engraved gratté pattern
Movement: manually wound Caliber RRCC02 with 82-hour power reserve; 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, twin gear trains, German silver base plate and bridges, free-sprung variable inertia balance
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking deadbeat subsidiary seconds with zero reset
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: CHF 125,000

Men’s Complication: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

ED: This double win kind of surprised me, though I understand fully how it happened. And it couldn’t have gone to a nicer watch!

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur (photo courtesy Alex Teuscher)

JM: Hermès doubles up with the same watch in a different size, which speaks volumes to just how well that piece was received. I have never seen the exact same watch win two different categories in the same year with only small changes in diameter and colors, but it makes sense.

ED: To my knowledge, Joshua, it has never happened before!

JM: I had picked it for my first runner up just like in the Ladies Complication category and once again it grabbed the crown and verified that the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is a fantastic watch.

IS: I thought that I’d taken a crazy risk picking the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur to win both the Ladies’ and Men’s Complication categories as I can’t remember that ever happening before, but hats off to the jury for bucking precedent to go with what they (and I) felt was the best watch here.

Further reading: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022)

Quick Facts Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

Case: 41 x 12.52 mm, titanium and platinum
Movement: automatic Hermès Caliber H1837 with Chronode module; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; worldtime, second time zone
Price: CHF 26,850

Iconic: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf

GG: I was very pleased to see that the jury weaned itself away from the Royal Oak in the Iconic category and gave the prize to my clear favorite, the TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf.

TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf Special Edition

JM: The Iconic category is another successful prediction for me, and I would be happy if it was the last prediction for this category as the value doesn’t seem there much anymore. Iconic watches are pretty easy to spot, but this designation says nothing specific about today’s model, only that the design has been long lasting. This is definitely true about the Monaco and I am happy it received what is essentially the Lifetime Achievement Award. It would be a great watch to retire the category with and go out on top.

ED: Yes, if any watch really deserves this moniker, the Monaco is one of them! A happy winner in a not-so-relevant category.

IS: While I think that the Iconic category is a back-patting waste of time, it also was the only category in which our panel was unanimous is predicting the winner, so no more complaints from me (unless the Iconic category is back next year).

Further reading:
TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Special Edition: Revving Up With A Bold Color Scheme

The Real Story Behind Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco: Exclusive Interview With ‘Le Mans’ Property Master Don Nunley

Quick Facts TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Case: 39 x 47.4 x 15.1 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber Heuer 02, 80-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Price: CHF 7,250

Tourbillon: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

JM: I had picked the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton as my second runner up so this also wasn’t exactly surprising when it was announced. I was a bit bummed that Grand Seiko didn’t win, but as it later went on to pick up the Chronometry prize for the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon I was happy all around, especially with another correct* prediction on my list.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton (photo courtesy Djaccomo Boom and Van Santen & Vink)

GG: In a very competitive Tourbillon field, my pick, the Moser, rose to the top with the Grand Seiko selected for the Chronometry prize. I’m sure that Greubel Forsey was disappointed that its Architecture didn’t fare better, but having handled both that watch and the Moser I favored the latter.

IS: I was one of those disappointed that the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture didn’t win this (or any other) prize, Gary, but the Moser Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is a stunning watch and another well-deserved winner here.

ED: I picked the Kodo to win this category, so you can imagine I was pleased at it getting the Chronometry prize. The Moser is without a doubt an excellent tourbillon and a worthy winner here. Again a good choice by a consistent jury!

Further reading: H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton: Having A Funky Good Time On Your Own Terms

Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Dial and hands: Funky Blue fumé with Globolight hour markers and hands
Movement: automatic skeletonized Caliber HMC 811; 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency; one-minute flying tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring; power reserve 74 hours
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: CHF 79,000 (excluding taxes)

Calendar & Astronomy: Krayon Anywhere

JM: Chalk up another solid prediction, there wasn’t another watch as innovative as the Krayon Anywhere in this category and the jury agreed. Now Rémi Maillat has made two models as an independent brand and each one has won an award at the GPHG, showcasing just how incredible these watches are.

The movement and dial sides of the Krayon Anywhere

GG: Krayon Anywhere in Calendar and Astronomy: yep; and I would have named it for the Revelation prize given that it follows on the heels of the amazing Everywhere.

ED: It was something of a no-brainer here, even if I also love some of the other watches that were competing.

IS: Agreed, Elizabeth, the Krayon Anywhere was a no-brainer for me too.

Further reading:
Krayon Anywhere: A Long Overdue Love Letter To A Practical Sunrise-Sunset Masterpiece

Krayon Everywhere: Who Knew Mechanically Calculating Sunrise/Sunset (Nearly) Anywhere On The Planet Would Be A Mental Workout (For The Author)? Plus Lots Of Videos

Quick Facts Krayon Anywhere
Case: 39 x 9.5 mm, white gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber C030 with 432 components, 86-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; sunset and sunrise times, month, date, 24-hour indication with day/night
Price: CHF 125,000

Mechanical Exception: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1

ED: Any of those entries would have been worthy winners, but it was very nice to experience the emotion that (Chopard and Ferdinand Berthoud CEO) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele brings to the stage when he picks up a prize, a true gentleman who loves what he does in life.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 in white gold with blue dial

GG: In Mechanical Exception, even Mr. Scheufele seemed a bit surprised that the Ferdinand Berthoud topped my pick, the Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Tourbillon. A completely worthy choice, though, as Chopard/Berthoud continue to impress. And the Berthoud was my selection for Chronometry, so it was high on my overall personal list.

JM: Another great example of knowing a watch is great, picking it for a different category, only to have it win its original category. Each piece in this category could have justifiably won so there can never be a surprise in that instance. Was super happy to see Ferdinand Berthoud take home the trophy and I’ll take that as another correct* prediction.

MG: Ferdinand Berthoud remains a GPHG favorite, winning the Mechanical Exception category.

IS: Ouch! In my predictions I wrote that, “The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 is the watch I’d like to win, and with this watchmaker-heavy GPHG jury I think it has an excellent chance.” Followed up by, “The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 is my runner up but may well win if the Bulgari is awarded another prize.” The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra did win another prize (for Audacity) and Ferdinand Berthoud won so I’m putting this one on the board.

Further reading: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1: A Sensational ‘Apprentice Piece’

Quick Facts Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
Case: 44 x 14.3 mm, ethical red gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber FB RSM with one-minute tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission; 53-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency; officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat hacking seconds; power reserve
Limitation: 20 pieces
Price: CHF 270,000

Chronograph: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf

GG: The battle of the chronographs played out as I expected, with MB&F’s Legacy Machine Sequential Evo rising all the way to the Aiguille d’Or and Grönefeld’s Grönograaf taking the Chronograph category trophy. The photo of the evening for me was of the Grönefeld brothers hoisting Max Büsser onto their shoulders – so wonderful to see the positive feelings among these great creators!

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf on the wrist

ED: I sat next to the Grönefeld brothers at the gala dinner following the ceremony – the Meylan brothers from H. Moser & Cie, who took home the Tourbillon prize were across from us – and it was a wonderful atmosphere after an exhausting but happy evening. This is the Grönefelds’ third GPHG Prize in the history of the competition, once again a very deserving winner.

JM: So incredibly happy for Tim and Bart Grönefeld for taking this category! I originally named this watch my first runner up because I assumed the MB&F would win unless it went on to win the Aiguille d’Or, which it did, so that automatically cues up the Grönograaf as the best in the bunch. And since I assumed it would somehow win by picking up an Innovation prize or something, this counts as yet another correct* prediction.

IS: I thought that the Grönefeld Grönograaf would win if the MB&F Sequential won a discretionary prize like Innovation or Audacity. The Grönograaf did win because the Sequential did win a discretionary prize (the Aiguille d’Or!) so I’m counting this one too.

Further reading: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My (Current) Predicted Winner For This Year’s ‘Best Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Quick Facts Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Case: 40 x 11.3 mm, tantalum
Movement: manually wound Caliber G-04, lateral clutch column wheel chronograph, soft reset mechanism with centrifugal governor and ruby-jeweled reset hammers; 53-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, variable inertia free-sprung balance, 408 components including 45 jewels, some set in gold chatons
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph with instant jumping minute counter
Strap/bracelet: buffalo leather, 20 mm tapering to 18 mm, steel or tantalum pin buckle to match case
Limitation: 25 pieces
Price: €165,000 / CHF 180,500

Diver’s: Tudor Pelagos FXD

JM: Yet another category in which my pick for first runner up takes home the win and I couldn’t be more satisfied. I picked another even while I personally liked the Pelagos FXD more, but I worried it might be too niche. But we must remember not to bet against Tudor, it still is the GPHG golden child (well, one of them at least). And this watch is an awesome dive watch, so I think the jury came to a good consensus once again.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

ED: I also correctly predicted this win – it is indeed very hard to bet against Tudor! I did wonder why the head of PR Christophe Chevalier accepted the award and not the CEO but was very happy to see Christophe enjoy himself on stage!

GG: In Diver’s, the “Tudor must win something” pattern continued, but I can’t complain too much as I saw the field as very evenly matched.

IS: In my predictions I wrote, “Two brands to bank on when it comes to winning GPHG prizes: Kari Voutilainen in Artistic Crafts (or whichever category he’s in) and Tudor in the Diver’s category (or any other).” It’s like playing with loaded dice, the gifts that keep on giving.

Further reading: Tudor Pelagos FXD: Is It Better Than The Black Bay?

Quick Facts Tudor Pelagos FXD
Case: 42 x 12.75 mm, titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber MT5602 with silicon escapement, power reserve 70 hours, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; diver countdown via bezel
Water resistance: 200 meters
Price: CHF 3,700

Jewelry: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi

JM: Normally I would say you can never rule out the Bulgari Serpenti but since it had only won once despite being a finalist six years running it wasn’t a guarantee. But I stand behind my statements during my prediction in which I called the Serpenti the GOAT and so there is literally no surprise it won the crown this year.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

I also stand by my other statements that we need lifetime achievement awards of some sort to recognize continuing excellence so a watch design or model can be singled out and then retired because some watches are just too perfect for their categories. The Bulgari Serpenti is one of those watches.

ED: Totally agree, Joshua. And if I may say, this particular Serpenti variation is perhaps the most perfect of them all! I really failed to see how it could lose, so I’m glad it didn’t . . .

GG: To the extent one can tell from photos, the Jewellery choice for Bulgari was right on the mark.

IS: While I didn’t pick the Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi to win, it was my runner up so yet again as excellent choice by the jury IMHO.

Further reading: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery: A Precious Snake That Cleopatra Would Have Loved

Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History

Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
Case: 40 x 8.85 mm, pink gold
Gem-setting: turquoise inserts, brilliant-cut diamonds, two pear-cut rubellites as eyes, pavé diamond setting inside the mouth, including the dial of the watch (18.05 ct total)
Movement: manual winding Caliber BVL 100 Piccolissimo, 3 Hz/21,600 vph, 30-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: CHF 246,000

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Ji-Ku

ED: Let’s just rename this the “Voutilainen category,” shall we?

GG: Going by the photos, this fantastic micro-mosaic Voutilainen watch was my pick for Artistic Crafts.

Stunning dial of the Voutilainen Ji-Ku

IS: Copy/pasted from my Diver’s Prize comments: In my predictions I wrote, “Two brands to bank on when it comes to winning GPHG prizes: Kari Voutilainen in Artistic Crafts (or whichever category he’s in) and Tudor in the Diver’s category (or any other).” It’s like playing with loaded dice, the gifts that keep on giving.

JM: Another completely unsurprising victory as I was making arbitrary calls to reason away from giving the crown to Voutilainen again, calling it my first runner-up. I’ve joked in the past that Voutilainen has won this category so many times it should be renamed in his honor, a joke effectively repeated during the awards presentation by presenter Wei Koh in reference to the Men’s category because the exact same thing goes on there.

The watch is a masterpiece, it’s as simple as that. I also count it as one of my correct* predictions because I suggested it might win the Aiguille d’Or if it didn’t win this category.

Quick Facts Voutilainen Ji-Ku
Case: 39 x 11.3 mm, platinum
Dial: Japanese lacquer with Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku using Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban), and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand)
Movement: manual winding Voutilainen caliber with free-sprung balance, power reserve 60 hours, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; world time
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: CHF 365,00

Petite Aiguille: Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

JM: This might have been the most surprising winner of the night for me because I worried the display might put too many jury members off in favor of a more traditional watch. I adore Trilobe and the Nuit Fantastique, so seeing it win – and seeing Trilobe finally get some recognition for it’s awesome watches – was very satisfying. I was the most wrong on this category and I don’t even care, another great watch triumphed!

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

ED: This was the second award given at the gala ceremony, and I gasped out loud because I was so far off the mark (though I was still hopeful Trilobe’s Une Journée Folle would take home a prize!). It was incredible to see the labors of founder Gautier Massonneau and director general Volcy Bloch rewarded this way. They have worked hard and made beautiful products that seem to be appealing to a lot of people despite their unusual ways of displaying the time. And I absolutely love their energy!

GG: The Trilobe seemed a popular choice in Petite Aiguille; for me it’s the best watch from this brand yet.

MG:  I was also pleased to see that Trilobe took home the Petite Aiguille prize. Although I did predict that, it was a heavily contested category and the coin could fall either way. I felt that this was the case in many categories, and that is also why the jury has a few prizes up their sleeves that they can award at their own discretion.

IS: A tip of the hat to Martin for picking this category correctly because I didn’t see this one coming at all. But I bow to the jury’s expertise and congratulate Trilobe on well-earned recognition.

Further reading:
Trilobe Une Folle Journée: Expanding Upward And Outward, Exposing The Mechanical Ingenuity Behind The Dial

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time

Quick Facts Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition
Case: 40.5 x 9.2 mm, titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber X-Centric (by Chronode for Trilobe) with micro rotor; 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: CHF 9,800

Challenge: M.A.D.1 Red

ED: I am now extremely proud to say that I finally own a watch that has a GPHG award! Aside from that, though, there isn’t a doubt in my mind that this watch should have been the winner. And, interestingly, I learned the next day that one of the leaders of one of the other brands also competing in this category even owns one! The proof is in the pudding, as they say.

MB&F M.A.D.1 Red (photo courtesy Ineichen auctions)

IS: This was another no-brainer for me. The M.A.D.1 Red is an absolutely crazy watch, but it’s also crazy good value horology and that’s what the Challenge category is all about.

GG: Who didn’t pick the M.A.D.1 Red to win Challenge?

JM: One of my extremely biased predictions to win and what an awesome win for Max Büsser and the team behind the M.A.D. Editions (MB&F). I did worry that people would be divided over the aesthetics, but I didn’t think a solid argument against it being disruptive and challenging to the industry was possible. I picked it to win, and it came out on top! Plus, I tuned in to the ceremony livestream at the exact moment Büsser was accepting the award, what a fantastic way to start the day, seeing a watch I am lucky enough to actually own win a prize for being awesome!

Further reading: M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass – Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept

Quick Facts M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red
Case: 42 x 18.8 mm, stainless steel
Movement: modified and inverted unidirectional automatic Miyota 821A (Citizen), 60-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, titanium and tungsten winding rotor
Functions: lateral hours and minutes on case band using two revolving aluminum rings with engraved numerals filled with Super-LumiNova
Price: CHF 3,125

Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux

GG: That Van Cleef & Arpels automaton clock clearly impressed the jury as much as it did me; so much, in fact, that I’m sure it influenced the choice of its creator, François Junod, for the Special Jury Prize (below).

Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine aux Oiseaux

ED: During the ceremony I learned that the unbelievable automaton in this clock was made by Ste. Croix-based automaton maker François Junod – which I’m sure I would have suspected had I thought about it. And lo and behold Monsieur Junod then took home the Special Jury Prize a few minutes later. An absolute masterpiece of an object and highly deserving of this recognition.

JM: This category really could have gone multiple ways but most of us here at Quill & Pad understood it was going to be hard to argue against the Fontaine Aux Oiseaux, and it appears the jury agreed. It was really gratifying to see six awesome clocks represented and a historical piece of horology honored. It also shows us that we totally want more clocks in the GPHG!

IS: Not just most of panel thought that the Fontaine Aux Oiseaux would win, Joshua, it was all of the panel – except me. I thought that Miki Eleta’s The Passage of Time would take the clock prize, but there’s no debating what an exceptional horological artwork the Fontaine Aux Oiseaux is, again a well-merited choice from the jury.

Further reading: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux Automaton: A Magical Way To Pass Time

Quick Facts Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux
Basin: 411.3 x 441.5 mm, wood with Urushi lacquer and eggshell marquetry, natural scene with water, dragonfly, lilies and two birds made of gold, enamel, and various gemstones (185.25 ct) including colored sapphires, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, mandarin garnets, amethysts, diamonds, lapis lazuli, turquoise, chalcedony, and rock crystal
Movement: manual wind with eight-day power reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency
Functions: retrograde hour and minute; automaton
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: CHF 5-10 million (exact price on request)

Aiguille d’Or: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

JM: I am counting this as a correct prediction because I made three predictions for likely winners; the other two then went on to other awards so by default it could only be the Legacy Machine Sequential Evo. This watch is groundbreaking on so many levels and the entire team behind it, especially watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, deserve heaps of praise. Winning the Aiguille d’Or is about as much praise as you can get from the industry outside of selling out a new collection in less than five minutes (which also happens to MB&F pieces). This isn’t the first Legacy Machine to win, and, honestly, I don’t think it’ll be the last either, and that should make us all happy.

MB&F LM Sequential EVO, winner of the 2022 GPHG Aiguille d’Or

ED: I adored Max’s speech upon winning the big prize!! I love that he showed so much emotion and I love that he had so much praise for his collaborators (the “friends” of Max Büsser & Friends). This is what getting a prize like this absolutely should look and feel like. Well deserved and bravo!

IS: I called this category right in thinking that the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo would be bumped up from the Chronograph category to win another prize, but called it wrongly in not thinking that it would win the big prize. And I couldn’t be happier!

Innovation: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

JM: I tried my hand at predicting the discretionary categories and I was wrong on every one of them, including Innovation. But three out of four were won by watches I thought would possibly win their original categories. This is one of them, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier. It is an absolutely stunning watch that deserved recognition and got it, just differently than I thought it would. Still I’m chalking another one up to a correct* prediction.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

IS: I thought that there were three watches in the running for the Innovation prize and none of them was the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier. Making a watch in which it is incredibly hard to read the time is more Audacious category than Innovative category to me, but there’s no denying that the Florales Cerisier is an incredible watch that well deserves this recognition. I don’t think it was bumped up from winning the Ladies Complication category, though, I think that it took this prize because the jury thought it fit.

ED: I did not include this one as a correct prediction, though according to Joshua’s tallying I guess I could. When the Ladies Complication award was handed out to Hermès, I just thought this watch was overlooked. I was very glad to find here as it was one of this year’s most interesting timepieces.

Further reading: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier: A Perpetually Blooming Microcosm Of Floral Gears

Quick Facts Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier
Case: 38 x 14.64 mm, diamond-set white or pink gold
Movement: automatic caliber by Valfleurier, 36-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; flower automata animation
Price: CHF 247,000

Audacity: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra

GG: The only choice that I (and some friends as well) found a bit off was the Bulgari QR code watch for Audacity, as the jury continues its multiyear love affair with super-thin watches. Other friends pointed out that Audacity is in the eye of the beholder, so even on this one I’m prepared to yield!

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra

JM: I would have never thought of the Octo Finissimo Ultra as a possible winner of this prize, but it makes total sense. Attempting a world record for thinnest watch is nothing if not audacious, and since it didn’t win its category it is a perfect fit here. Not an ounce of disappointment for me as my pick for this prize, the M.A.D.1 already won the Challenge category. So it’s smiles all around. So perhaps this is where I say that you never underestimate the Bulgari Octo Finissimo.

IS: I thought that the M.A.D.1 Red might take the Audacity prize, but congratulations Bulgari on yet another award-winning ultra-thin watch. I see that QR code more as a decoration and it doesn’t bother me as much as it does some of my colleagues.

ED: I’m not a fan of that engraved QR code on the front – and it definitely has not grown on me – but I still can’t deny the magnitude of the accomplishment this watch represents.

MG: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. Yes, Richard Mille has a thinner watch, but the Bulgari is so much more appealing to me. One could argue that Bulgari should have won the Innovation prize for this watch and that the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier should have been awarded the Audacity prize instead of the other way around, but in the end it doesn’t make much difference.

Further reading: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra: Seemingly Both Impossibly Thin And Impossibly Deep

Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra
Case: 40 x 1.8 mm, titanium
Movement: manually wound Caliber BVL180 (co-developed with Concepto), 50-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz constructed as a monobloc integrated into the case
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 10 pieces
Price: €400,000

Chronometry: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

JM: Out of all the happiness I felt watching people I know and like winning awards for watches I love, none of that compared to watching Grand Seiko get honored for its first tourbillon. Seiko and Grand Seiko are always very humble, proud, and grateful to win an award at the GPHG. This was highlighted when the main watchmaker behind the development of the movement was given a chance to speak and was on the verge of tears of joy.

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon (photo courtesy Alex Teuscher)

The appreciation of both representatives of Grand Seiko – the other was the global CEO – was incredibly genuine and pure and that was a highlight of the entire night for me. I also had predicted that it would win the Tourbillon category so seeing it win something even more fitting and rare was icing on the cake.

ED: Agreed, Joshua! I was disappointed that it was passed over in its own category (I had also predicted it), but someone near me in the audience kept saying he thought it would take the Aiguille d’Or. I was pretty sure that wouldn’t happen, and it turned out amazingly.

IS: I thought that the Zenith Calibre 135-Observatoire might take this prize, but was very happy to see the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon get this very-well-deserved honor recognition.

MG: Although it lost the Tourbillon category to the also superb Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, given the importance of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon in (Japanese) watchmaking and the exceptional execution I feel that it is only fitting that at least one prize went to Japan.

Further reading:
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon: Grand Seiko Unleashed

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes

Quick Facts Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon SLGT003
Case: 43.8 x 12.9 mm, hybrid platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium
Movement: manually wound Caliber 9ST1 with co-axial constant force one-minute tourbillon, 72-hour power reserve (50 hours of constant force), 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve
Limitation: 20 pieces
Price: €370,000

Horological Revelation: Sylvain Pinaud Origine

JM: The Revelation prize is always one that I will have a hard time pinning down, and this year was no different. I cannot fault the jury for picking Sylvain Pinaud and his Origine; his watch is amazing, I just did not consider him when considering this prize. That is why the discretionary categories are built-in curveballs because a rogue jury could blindside us all for whatever it wants to honor. I feel like this is one instance where it seemingly came out of left field, at least my left field!

Sylvain Pinaud Origine

MG: I thought that the stunning Origine by Sylvain Pinaud well deserved this prize.

ED: The Horological Revelation category is for makers and brands active for less than 10 years, and the very inventive Sylvain fits extremely well here. Congratulations to him and the interesting Origine!

IS: If the council marketing team of the little town of Sainte-Croix in the Jura mountains above Neuchâtel lobbied the GPHG committee this year, congratulations, job done. We have not one but two horologists from Sainte-Croix this year: Sylvain Pinaud, son of a watchmaker, and with his own independent brand since 2018, and François Junod, who was awarded the Special Jury prize (see below).

For more on Sylvain Pinaud, please visit www.sylvain-pinaud.com/origine.

Special Jury Prize: François Junod

IS: François Junod designs and builds automatons, contemporary art sculptures, and stunning clocks as evidenced by the award-winning Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux. Visiting Junod’s atelier in Saint-Croix is like entering a fantasy world.

MG: It’s great to see François Junod getting some well-earned recognition!

For more information, please visit www.francoisjunod.com.

The big reveal: how did we do with our predictions?

Elizabeth Doerr: 11
Aiguille d’Or : MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Men’s: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II
Iconic: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Calendar and Astronomy: Krayon Anywhere
Chronograph: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Diver’s: Tudor Pelagos FXD
Jewellery:  Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
Artistic Crafts : Voutilainen Ji-Ku
Challenge: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red
Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux

Ian Skellern: 10
Ladies Complication: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Men’s : Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II
Men’s Complication : Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Iconic : TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Calendar and Astronomy: Krayon Anywhere
Mechanical Exception: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
Chronograph: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum (predicted if MB&F won a discretionary prize)
Diver’s: Tudor Pelagos FXD
Jewellery:  Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
Artistic Crafts : Voutilainen Ji-Ku
Challenge: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red

GaryG: 9
Aiguille d’Or : MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Men’s: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II
Men’s Complication : Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Iconic: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Tourbillon:  H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Calendar and Astronomy: Krayon Anywhere
Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Ji-Ku
Challenge: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red
Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux

Joshua Munchow: 8 1/2
Aiguille d’Or : ½ point (for his predicted tie) MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Ladies: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
Ladies Complication: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Iconic: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Tourbillon:  H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Calendar and Astronomy: Krayon Anywhere
Challenge: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red
Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux
Innovation: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Martin Green: 3
Ladies: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
Chronograph: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux

You may also enjoy:

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon: Grand Seiko Unleashed

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar To Its Predecessor, Everything Is New

Tudor Pelagos FXD: Is It Better Than The Black Bay?

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022)

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra: Seemingly Both Impossibly Thin And Impossibly Deep

Krayon Everywhere: Who Knew Mechanically Calculating Sunrise/Sunset (Nearly) Anywhere On The Planet Would Be A Mental Workout (For The Author)? Plus Lots Of Videos