Enamel dials are not as uncommon as they once were, and brands need to do a little bit more to stand out. Jaeger-LeCoultre has no problem with that as the Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel features eye-catching blue enamel over a hand-guilloche dial. Martin Green looks at what else makes this model stand out.
About Martin Green
I am the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad. A Dutch national with familial ties to the United States of America, I unwittingly landed in the world of watches just before I turned 18. My grandfather always had an interest in timepieces, and I decided that I would celebrate my eighteenth birthday with the purchase of my very first Swiss wristwatch. Little did I know that this would open a wormhole propelling me into a universe that I am now very happy to call home. I have a deep-rooted passion for watches. And while being a gentleman perfectly describes my approach to life, it does also require the development of eclectic knowledge that goes beyond beautiful timepieces. Therefore, I also enrich Quill & Pad with various watch and non-watch-related articles that are luxurious in nature, but which could nevertheless be quite interesting to watch-crazy readers.
The grandeur of Place Vendôme is hard to match, and to say that about a location in a city like Paris is quite a statement. Follow Martin Green’s tour of the horological history of the square and discover what makes this place so special.
The Chopard L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton will not be for everybody, and Martin Green considers that a good thing. While more traditionally inclined clients are perfectly served by the regular L.U.C XP models, the collaboration with Neapolitan fashion house Kiton shows that this Chopard can overstep its invisible classic boundaries and become something more contemporary.
Diver’s watches are meant to be rough, tough tool watches, and limited editions are made to cash in on a model’s popularity. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum is both, yet disproves these paradox presumptions as Martin Green discovered after wearing this watch for a while. What did he think? It’s lit!
Adding a few diamonds to a watch: how hard can that be? As it turns out, stone setting is a lot more difficult than many appreciate. Diamond-setting watches requires the expertise and craftsmanship of about half a dozen highly skilled craftspeople, each a master of their craft.
Ulysse Nardin offers the Blast in five different case versions, and each of these case materials has great impact on the look of the individual watch. In most watches, ceramic cases provide an edgy feel that Martin Green thinks often makes them look better than their metal-encased siblings. Not so with the Blast, he feels. Check out all of his thoughts on this new watch here.
When Piaget introduced the manual wind Caliber 9P at the 1957 Basel Fair, at only 2 mm in height, it was considered an impossibility. Three years later, in 1960, Piaget stunned the watch world once again with Caliber 12P, an automatic movement that broke world records for its svelteness. What does that have to do with a vintage watch Martin Green saw? Find out here.
The two new Bulgari Aluminium models look a lot like their predecessors, which makes you realize how timeless the design is. They don’t even look retro, highlighting the timeless quality of the original design. And the good news is that they are relatively affordable compared to other watches in Bulgari’s collection. What else do these watches have going for them?
Girard-Perregaux plays cleverly off the intense blackness of the onyx dial of the Vintage 1945 Infinity by crafting the logo, hour indexes, and second hand in pink gold. To Martin Green’s eye, the combination of the steel case with the pink and white metal hands creates an interesting dynamic that works very well in combination with the Vintage 1945 Infinity’s art deco design.
The flexibility of the beautiful Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey makes it very appealing because in each configuration, the watches can be appreciated in a different way. The patented Amadéo case allows the watch to be used as a pendant, pocket, or wristwatch. And even as a small table clock! And those dials! And those beads! A must see.