The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton has a cylindrical tourbillon reminiscent of an exploded image. The fact that it’s in motion makes it all the better. But that’s not all, as Martin Green discovers.
A brand’s progress is often seen in how their watches evolve. Armin Strom, which had the delicate task of reinventing the ‘One Week,’ the watch with their very first full manufacture movement.
The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune is a prime example of contemporary skeletonization as the bridges offer an elegant appeal with their almost organically flowing lines and subtle decorations. Martin Green tells us what else he likes (and maybe doesn’t) about this watch.
It has always surprised Martin Green that mechanical movements running at a high frequency have never become more popular. Chopard joined this exclusive club in 2012 with the L.U.C 8HF and now releases a follow-up with the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, which also boasts an 8 Hz escapement.
Many think that Louis Vuitton’s first watch was the Tambour, which was launched in 2002. However the brand actually began with a watch collection called Monterey in the 1980s. The Monterey I, an unusual worldtime watch designed by Gae Aulenti with date and moon phase, was soon followed by the ceramic-encased Monterey II that added an alarm function.
Lang 1943 is not a homage, it stands its own ground and can best be summarized as a beautiful tool. The first thing that the team at Lang 1943 got right was the proportions. A diameter of 39mm is spot on, particularly when the thickness is just 8.40 mm. This results in a timepiece that is comfortable to wear, large enough to be easy to read, but not overly bulky that it hinders movements.
For CHF 4,950, the Ming 37.05 Series 2 is a thoroughly thought-out design, a generous dose of original character, and a fun execution on one of the industry’s oldest complications: the moon phase. Unfortunately, it quickly sold out.
Martin Green thinks that the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton 39mm is sized perfectly. And to see the skeletonized movement and (nearly) all its parts, the way they interact and work, is captivating.
Wandering hours has become an essential part of Urwerk’s DNA. Unlike any other brand out there, they have explored, lived through, and lost sleep over wandering hours. Over the years, Urwerk have introduced different varieties of this way of displaying time, of which the UR-120 is one of the most spectacular.
By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, Luc Pettavino has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands. Here are Martin Green’s Top Ten, and the last one, which is his absolute favorite!