Hermès Carré H with gray and black dials

DNA Approved: How Swiss Watch Brands Are Getting Back On Track

What is the most precious element of any watch brand? Its manufacture? Its skilled employees? Its brand ambassadors? Its boutiques? Martin Green thinks that it’s none of those, because the most important asset of a brand is its so-called DNA. Here he explains how brands better used their DNA at the 2018 SIHH.

Fitting Rolex balance wheel and Parachrom hairspring

Is Silicon Here To Stay In (Rolex) Watch Movements?

Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.

SIHH 2018 logo

The Times, They Are A Changin’ At SIHH And Why That Matters: Observations From A Third-Timer

Łukasz Doskocz has no problem being quite frank with anyone when it comes to watches: he enjoys every watch fair and looks forward to seeing what comes next. This year, unlike the years before, it seems to him as if brands have started to listen to collectors, finally appreciating what we want for our money. Which is why the SIHH 2018 mattered to him greatly . . . well, that and a few other things.

Haldimann Central Balance Pure H12

The Case For Steel: Here’s Why Stainless Steel Is The Most Precious Metal For Watches (Archive)

In the world of watches, especially with regards to collecting, rarity is a large factor contributing to the cost of a luxury timepiece. The reason is because rarity is almost always an implied condition that seems beyond control – like it just happens. In this article Joshua explains why he thinks that out of all the metals, especially the white metals like platinum and white gold, stainless steel is the most precious metal.

Analysis: Why Is Richemont Buying YOOX Net-A-Porter Group (YNAP) Again? Hint: It Has To Do With Amazon

On January 22, 2018 Richemont announced its intent to purchase the remaining shares it doesn’t already own of online luxury retailer YOOX Net-A-Porter Group (YNAP). There’s much more to this story than just a corporate acquisition. This is as much about Amazon and how fine timepieces will be sold in the future as it is about the online sales of luxury goods between two industry giants.

Navigating The Grey Market: A Retail Expert Explains The Whys And Wherefores (Archive)

Friends, colleagues, and clients have posed many questions about the grey market for fine timepieces over the years. Most recently, my post ‘A Cautionary Tale on Buying New Watches Online’ was met with quite a few comments, quite possibly leaving more questions than answers. Here are a few answers.

How often do we see long list of the same watch on Watchville (and we are as guilty as anyone)?

Watch Journalism In 2018: What’s Wrong, How To Improve . . . And Why The Biggest Problem Is YOU

There are two main problems in watch journalism as I see things today – and this is from the viewpoint of a watch enthusiast, watch collector, (former) watch brand social media manager, watch publisher, watch photographer, and watch journalist: 1) low average quality of horological articles and 2) often obscure incentives. What might be done? Here are some possible answers.

The “Industrialization Of Arts & Crafts”: Is This The Unspoken Tagline Of Many (Most?) Haute Horlogerie Brands Today?

There was a small horological polemic recently out of Geneva caused by an employment advert from a high-end watch brand looking for a “chargé d’industrialisation métiers d’art.” First they industrialized horological crafts, now it’s the arts. What’s next?

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium

Happy Wife, Happy Life: What Women Want (In A Watch)

Chris Malburg set out to buy his wife a watch. After many happy years of marriage to a lovely woman it was time. He knows enough about her and her tastes to take the leap. Or does he? If you’re a female reader you probably already know this ends badly. If you’re a guy, keep reading. Showing up is 80 percent, and you just showed up.

Dish by Niki Nakayama from the Netflix series Chef's Table

How Contemporary Haute Horlogerie Stacks Up Against Contemporary Haute Cuisine: Netflix’s ‘Chef’s Table’ Offers Tasty Lessons

Contemporary watchmaking has been making waves in the generally calm waters of traditional watchmaking for nearly two decades and has radically changed perceptions as to what haute horlogerie might be. But watching the superb Netflix series ‘Chef’s Table ‘ and contemporary haute cuisine, I can’t help but wonder if the pioneers and leaders of contemporary watchmaking are doing enough.