Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret
by GaryG
“I have no secrets as past watchmakers had. There are graveyards full of secrets and that’s enough.” –Philippe Dufour, 2014
Have you heard of Philippe Dufour?
Chances are, if you have been collecting watches for any significant period of time, his name is well known to you. But I’m not assuming that everyone reading these words is a collector, or even a dyed-in-the-wool watch enthusiast. I meet many people in my watch-related comings and goings who aren’t either aware, or fully aware, of Dufour and his work.
That said, a great deal has already been said, written, and recorded about Philippe Dufour. My Quill & Pad colleagues Elizabeth and Ian have both written at length on the man, he has appeared in videos and movies, and there is even a Japanese comic book about him!
Nonetheless, I have such deep respect for Philippe that I’d like to set out my personal views: first on why I believe that he is important to the world of horology, and second on why he is important to me as a person.
Let’s get going. The five key descriptors I feel are critical to understanding Dufour’s significance to the watch world are: foundation, tradition, innovation, perfection, and perpetuation.
Foundation
When I was a young instrumentalist, any trip to the music store or request for an audition inevitably began with the query, “Who’s your teacher?” Whether in playing or composing, apprenticeship has long been a critical element of musical mastery, and the same is true of top-level watchmaking.
A young Philippe Dufour (image courtesy Le Club Horloger)
Haydn, in addition to influencing Mozart, taught Beethoven, who taught Czerny, who taught Lizst.
In the horological world, Charles Meylan schooled Kari Voutilainen; George Daniels influenced and inspired François-Paul Journe and worked closely with Roger Smith; and it was Gabriel Locatelli who passed along many of the critical “secrets” to Philippe Dufour.
Locatelli was prolific in his influence: over a period of years, he passed his knowledge along to many others, including Eric Coudray of Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon and Reverso Repetition Minutes fame and young horological superstar David Candaux.
Dufour and Locatelli had a close relationship that survived well beyond their times at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Prior to his untimely death in a motoring accident, Gabriel worked together with Philippe, and even built the Simplicity prototype that is Philippe’s daily wearer.
Philippe Dufour Simplicity on the wrist of the author (photo GaryG)
Here’s that watch, seen on my wrist (what you can’t see are the chills that were running down my spine).
Tradition
Another thing that Dufour has in common with many other great watchmakers is the time that he spent as a restorer of fine vintage timepieces. In doing so, he was able to learn the patterns distinguishing watchmaking traditions and even individual watchmakers from each other.
He also learned to identify a variety of ways of solving given problems, and, ultimately, to find his own desired form of expression based on the traditional movement architectures and artistic expressions of the Vallée de Joux from the period between 1850 and 1920.
Dufour ‘s work perpetuates, and extends, that great tradition.
Innovation
Dufour does not consider himself a great innovator; in fact, he often claims that there is “nothing new” in horology. Certainly, he has drawn inspiration from prior inventions. For instance, here’s a photo of a student watch from 1933 that gives us a sense of the inspiration for Dufour’s twin-escapement Duality.
A Le Sentier horological school watch with two escapements: the inspiration for Philippe Dufour’s Duality (photo GaryG)
But it would be dead wrong to say that Philippe has not brought innovation to his work. Among other things, he was the first to make a grande et petite sonnerie in wristwatch form and the first to make a dual-escapement wristwatch with differential.
He was also among the very first to use computer-aided design (CAD) tools – something that might surprise those who consider him old-fashioned – and he utilizes leading-edge methods such as spark erosion to manufacture raw components that he then turns into jewels with his deft touch.
Finally, he helped to drive business model innovation in watchmaking by having the courage to go out on his own as an independent. He wasn’t the first independent, but along with George Daniels he showed the way for really top-rate watchmaking as a road to creative and commercial independence.
Perfection
At this point an anecdote: if you ever visit Philippe’s workshop and look in the right spot, you will see a set of identical-appearing cylindrical plugs hanging on a board. I happened to ask what they were for, and here’s the response. “The case maker is unable to make the interior circumference of the Simplicity case to the tolerance that I like. So, I use these cylinders, of slightly varying size, to identify the exact interior diameter of a given case, and I then machine the base plate of the movement to fit exactly inside.”
For me more chills spill down the spine just trying to imagine the sheer level of commitment required to do this sort of precise matching of movement to case. Not to mention dozens of other things that I’m sure we don’t know when there is a pretty good chance that they will never come to light.
The visible results are as near to perfection, in my opinion, as a hand-finished timepiece can be. There is obviously mastery of technique involved, but also a deep desire to apply that mastery.
At this level, to me, it’s no longer just craft, but authentic artistic expression.
Close-up of the movement of a Philippe Dufour Simplicity showing the sublime hand finishing (photo GaryG)
Philippe held our group of collectors spellbound this past January talking about some of the “secrets” of his craft: how when he files a part, both the file and piece must move in order for them to work together to create a perfect surface.
And how, when he uses a bow to polish a jewel sink, he can tell when it’s perfect by the temperature of the polishing rod on his fingers.
Perfection, achieved at the intersection of knowledge, experience, and passion.
Perpetuation
This includes an important sub-element: inspiration. Kari Voutilainen’s recent biography states that Kari was inspired to start up his own independent atelier after a conversation with Dufour.
Behind the scenes, Philippe encourages and counsels other independents, including Romain Gauthier (whose Logical One knocked my socks off). He shares freely of his insights and helps troubleshoot difficult technical problems encountered by his colleagues.
More publicly, he is a central figure in the Le Garde Temps, la Naissance d’une Montre project along with Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Philippe is working actively with watchmaker Michel Boulanger (an expert restorer and professor in his own right) to pass along the “secrets” of making a high quality watch by hand so that they can be preserved and passed on for future generations.
Innovation plays a role here as well, with many of the techniques being captured via 3D video. So, thanks in part to Philippe, the Boulangers and Gauthiers and many others to come are poised to become the Czernys and Lizsts of horology.
Finally, Dufour’s adaptations of earlier innovations are themselves inspiring new watches. A recent example of this is the dual-escapement Legacy Machine 2 by MB&F, whose founder Maximilian Büsser says was very much inspired by the Dufour Duality.
Two examples of MB&F Legacy Machine No.2 flank their inspiration, a Philippe Dufour Duality: all feature two escapements linked by a differential (photo GaryG)
Dufour and I
Suffice it to say that I feel presumptuous simply typing the subtitle above! It has, however, been my distinct privilege to meet Philippe on a number of occasions and get to know him a bit, and so perhaps I can be forgiven a few personal observations.
In addition to his role as a giant of horology, he’s also important to me as a person for the following reasons.
He’s funny
And I mean really funny. In a way that is both clever and plays off of who he is and how people react to him. At a dinner earlier this year, he kept glancing at a watch whose edge was poking out from under his right sleeve until we begged for a look.
After describing it as his “next Duality” and getting our salivary glands on overload, he pulled up his sleeve to reveal a Chinese-made watch with exposed dual balances!
One of our group has a close relationship with a major manufacturer (I’ll call it RolBregVach to protect the innocent), and more or less believes that the sun rises and sets on the brand. Specifically, he spends a fair amount of time reminding us of the brilliant hand-finishing that is, to him, a hallmark of the brand.
Knowing this from prior interactions, Philippe looked fondly at the Chinese watch, smiled, and said, “With a bit of bzzz bzzz on the edge of the movement plates with a motorized tool, this could be a RolBregVach!” Howls all around.
When he presented me with my Simplicity, he told the tale of a terminally ill woman who had approached him the prior week with a request to make Simplicities for each of her three sons as mementoes of her love.
With what I realized only later was a twinkle in his eye having hooked me with this touching but completely fabricated tale, he said, “Gary, I had to tell her no – but I hope that you feel good that you’re getting one!”
The author happily collecting his Simplicity from its creator, Philippe Dufour
He’s genuine
He tells tales, names names, and minces no words when it comes to telling you what he thinks, be it positive or negative. When he praises a piece, it carries immense weight. When he criticizes one, there is no doubt about what he thinks.
He loves A. Lange und Söhne and owns (and wears) a Lange Datograph, but he is no fan of the more complex Tourbograph because he sees it as a “complication cocktail.”
His (negative) reaction to a friend’s chronograph pusher feel was devastating enough that the piece was on its way to a new owner within weeks.
His stories – whether of the well-known industry figure who put one of the Dufour/Audemars Piguet sonnerie pocket watches in his outer suit coat pocket and then proceeded to slam it in the door of his sports car (see “he’s funny,” above), or of quieter times together with Gabriel Locatelli – never cease to fascinate.
Philippe is the real deal, and his forthright expression, while perhaps unpopular with some industry figures, is another of his gifts to us.
He’s proud, but knows his limitations
I was going to use the term “self-deprecating” at one point earlier in this article, but immediately stopped myself: Philippe is, in his own quiet way, clearly quite aware of his leadership role in the world of fine watchmaking.
One thing that has always struck me: if you look at any of the many photographs available of Philippe presenting a Dufour watch to its new owner, he is always looking at the same place. This is directly at the watch, with a gentle smile revealing his satisfaction with what he has wrought.
I wish that I could say that I can look at every work product of my career in the same way!
At the same time, Philippe is also quite frank on his views of his own limitations. He has said on many occasions that he wishes he had been able to build an enduring team around him in his atelier. Perhaps that would be too much to ask from one whose gifts and zeal for perfection make it difficult for others to keep pace.
He’s generous
At this year’s SIHH, Philippe rushed up to us in the main hall and said he had a request for us. He wanted us to meet his daughter, who is an executive with a large U.S. corporation.
He introduced us as “those crazy collectors from California that I talk about,” which as you can imagine was flattery indeed from our perspective!
Taking time from his family discussion to draw us into the circle was just one example of expressions of generosity, large and small, that to me typifies the man.
Philippe Dufour and the author exchanging views over a glass (or two) of wine
He’s an artist
I am completely confident that he works first and foremost to please himself, within a tradition and extending it as a means of self-expression. He is often quoted as saying that watchmaking is his hobby; I don’t think that there is any doubt that at the end of the day that he answers only to himself.
He’s comfortable in his own skin
Greatest example (to me) here is from a visit of independent watchmakers to China a year or so ago, in which the watchmakers had the opportunity to dress in Chinese ceremonial robes for a dinner.
When I looked at the photos, it occurred to me that while the others look like Swiss, Dutch, or Finnish guys who somehow found themselves on another planet and would be only too keen to get back into their Western suits, Dufour looks as if he were born in imperial garb.
He reads my stuff
At dinner this past January, I mentioned a forum post I had made on the topic of my Simplicity, and Philippe said, “I liked that one!” I was taken aback that he not only read, but actually liked, some of my posts and said so.
His response, again with that twinkle, “I do read them, but I can’t respond to them online, because then some other people will say, “Waaaahhh! Dufour didn’t respond to my post’!” (See “he’s funny,” above).
Philippe Dufour and GaryG
Dufour from a collector’s perspective
One of my roles here at Quill & Pad is to present the perspective of an enthusiast collector: someone who appreciates many watches, but at the end of the day can plunk down his own hard-earned cash on only a small subset of them.
In my humble opinion, ownership of a Dufour watch is an extremely worthy goal for any collector with the means to do so.
I am delighted with my 37 mm Simplicity in white gold, and my greatest regret as a collector is that my absentee bid at auction for one of the sonnerie pocket watches that Philippe did for Audemars Piguet was too low to carry the day.
A “family” of Philippe Dufour timpieces
What I’m talking about here is not the potential for financial appreciation, as no one knows what the future prices of particular watches will be. It is to hold in one’s hands a piece of history – a watch that some day, like those of Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels, will be worthy of inclusion in the finest collections and museums of the world.
I’m not alone, either. Among our small local enthusiast collector group, there are six Dufour watches: five Simplicities, and one of the nine Dualities made. Great pieces indeed, but it’s the fact that our enthusiasm for them gives us the opportunity to know Philippe, and see him at work, that is truly priceless.
Trackbacks & Pingbacks
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[…] I love his work and all that it represents (see Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret). […]
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[…] The skills involved in making a beautifully finished high-end watch by hand are steadily disappearing. As Philippe Dufour often laments, when an experienced watchmaker retires or dies it’s like pulling a page from the “Book of Horology” . . . and the pages are not being re-written or replaced (see Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret). […]
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[…] It is a bit of a “wild and crazy” side that only truly becomes visible when he really laughs in the occasional moment of true glee. Like when Philippe Dufour cracks an unexpectedly funny joke (see Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret). […]
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[…] For more on Phillpe Dufour, please check out the article by GaryG, Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret. […]
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[…] start though is learning about the legendary man himself, which is why I highly recommend you read this great article on Quill & Pad by extremely seasoned collector Gary […]
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Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!
So true. So sweet. You have captured the essence of Philippe.
We are so fortunate to have him in our avocation and in our lives.
Thank you, Gary.
I have you to thank for bringing me into the circle with Philippe, and I will always be grateful for that, Terry!
We are indeed fortunate to have him in our lives — and I couldn’t be more pleased that you found my thoughts fitting to the man.
Best,
Gary
“bzzz bzzz” That was great fun and I will never forget that. Thanks for the reminder and the first laugh today, Gary!
It has been great sharing not only that moment, but many more with you, Oliver! Looking forward to many more horological adventures in the years to come.
That is one of your finest writings Gary! You’re ability to personalize Philippe brought out his humanity, his passion and his unique talents. Thank you for sharing your story as well as his.
Many thanks, Larry! One of my big goals here is to communicate my experiences and feelings about them clearly enough to share the experience of “being there” with others.
I am very pleased that you felt the piece humanized Philippe — it’s one thing to worship an idealized hero, but more fulfilling, I think, to know a splendid man.
I will keep sharing my stories as long as knowledgeable guys like yourself want to hear them!
Wow, tbh I stumbled upon this article. Reading through it i learnt a lot…. Then when the pictures starting appearing I recognised the face of the author from other forums and then finally the name GaryG! Great addition, superb article above, I have read his articles in the past on KV and was stunned by the passion. In addition I have finally understood why Mssr Dufour is rated so highly… Before this article I had never had a chance to see the background of the man. Great job!
Wow — thanks for the very kind words, Imran! I’m glad that you found this article (and me) here on Quill and Pad — I am now posting here twice monthly, and hope that you will find some of my other articles (past and future) of interest as well.
Passion is what it is all about, of course! Happy that it comes through in my words and photos.
I was fortunate enough to meet Philippe in a local atelier tour provided by none other than Peter Speake Marin. I was still new to watch collecting and am still growing to appreciate the opportunity I was presented. I wish I’d seen the hanging cylinders though!! We were at his workshop for about an hour and I was mesmerized by the collection of ancient machines with so many stories to tell. Peter and Philippe talked shop while I wandered and looked and drooled. So much to see, I’d go back in a heartbeat. Someday I too hope to own a Dufour. Only time will tell.
Many thanks for sharing your story, Steve! I think you will agree that from the moment one sees the “Philippe Dufour” brass plaque on the outer door, a visit with Philippe is a magical experience.
Best wishes for future ownership of a Dufour piece — in the meantime, I hope you will continue to relish our shared passion for watches!
Hi Gary.
This is a really great written article! When I was reading it, I immediately saw the passion and perfection with which Philippe Dufour does finish his breathtaking timepieces. And I saw how proud you are to know him personally and to be one of the very few owner of a Dufour timepiece {I have to admit, that I am a bit jealous at that point 😉 }. Unfortunately I was not fortunate enough yet, to meet Philippe Dufour personally, but one day when I will be in Switzerland I have to ask for a visit in his atelier.
The more you are completely right, to mention him in the same sentence with Abraham Louis Breguet and Dr. George Daniels.
All the best.
Christian
Thanks so much for your remarks, Christian! I am very pleased that you have joined the conversation here at Quill & Pad and hope to see more comments from you here in the future.
Given your deep and obvious commitment to the art of fine watchmaking, I hope and expect that you will have a chance to meet Philippe and I know that the experience will be an enjoyable one!
All the best,
Gary
What I have seen as well, is that you didn’t buy your simplicity only to sell it in maybe 20 years to gain a lot of money with it!?
If I am correct, Philippe Dufour stopped his production of the Duality because someone tried to sell one of his watches? He only produced 9 instead of 25?
All the best.
Christian
You will have to ask Philippe why he made only nine Dualities, but I do understand that his original plan was to make a bigger series. He did tell us that he is asked frequently to make a Duality, and the answer is always “no.”
Of course I would love to add a Duality to my collection!
Gary, this has to be your best contribution… I had the wonderful pleasure to visit Monsieur Dufour about 5 years ago in his Atelier. It was a surprise for me as I had not heard of him before. The experience to meet with him, listen to him for 2 hours and watch him talk and explain his Simplicity, and he also had a highly complicated pocketwatch which he once built and now had to repair, all that was so impressive and amazing. He is such a genuine humble Gentleman, and I left him thinking wow, what a day, what an experience for someone like me who loves watches so dearly…
Thank you so much, Boris! I can only agree with you that any time spent with Philippe, especially in his atelier, is pure magic.
How astounding it must have been to discover him there when you had not heard of him before!
In my opinion, looking at the movement of a Simplicity is as close as anyone will ever get, this side of the grave, at seeing the face of God. It is that perfect. I have lusted after one of those watches for years, and my life is stung by the knowledge that I will never have one.
Thanks for your comment, Doug — I have to confess that when someone asks me what’s so great about the Simplicity, all that I can say is “it’s just perfect.”
I hope that you will have many opportunities to handle examples of Mr. Dufour’s work — and who knows, at some point perhaps even have one of your own!
Is M. Dufour training an apprentice or two? The reason I ask is that who is going to his service watches 20, 30 years down the road?
Great article. It offers many angles and perspective. I would be interested in knowing the model of the Chinese watch dufour was wearing though..
Eric —
Ha! I do have a photo somewhere and will look for it (although my filing system is truly awful). Oliver (who commented in the thread above) does have a photo, I am quite sure…
Best,
Gary
I wish I could meet the legend himself in person. I first stumbled upon the name Philippe Dufour in a watchmaking documentary and his work sparked my love for watches today. My friends know me as a “guy who really really loves watches” and they tell me “if you love watches so much why don’t you be a watch salesman at Rolex or something?” Hopefully one day Gary, hopefully one day. I have always loved his philosophy and humbleness, I dream of owning simplicity or one of his grande sonneries one day. Keep up the great work I’ll definitely keep an eye on this blog. ( p.s got any more wonderful photos of Philippe? 🙂 He is my inspiration and a mentor)
I am proud to be in the “same boat”, the AHC,I with Philippe since 20 years.
May the actual generation of watchmakers be inspired.
Svend Co founder of AHCI
Welcome Svend!
Regards, Ian