Unique central 24-hour second time zone
Fully integrated movement
Elements of surprise

by Ian Skellern

The 2016 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has published the list of pre-selected watches in the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red carpet event in Geneva on November 10.

The categories for 2016 constitute: Ladies, Ladies’ High Mech, Men’s, Chronograph, Tourbillon, Calendar, the new Travel Time category (replacing 2015’s Striking category), Mechanical Exception, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices up to 8,000 Swiss francs), Sports, Jewellery, and Artistic Crafts.

The main prize of the evening is the Aiguille d’Or, which celebrates the best watch overall among all the entrants in all categories.

The pre-selected watches go on a world tour, starting with Seoul on October 10. From there the watches travel to Rome before returning to Geneva’s Cité du Temps for public viewing from November 2 through 12, at which time the public can also vote for their favorite. They will also be on exhibit during Dubai Watch Week, which takes place November 15 through 19.

But enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes.

Ladies’

The Ladies’ category contains women’s watches comprising two at most of the following indications: date, power reserve, classic moon phase, and second time zone. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats’ worth of gemstones.

Pre-selected Ladies’ watches in the 2016 GPHG: Fabergé Lady Levity, Audemars Piguet Millenary, Bovet 1822 Blue Thistles, Bulgari Serpenti Spiga, Chopard L.U.C XP 35 mm Esprit de Fleurier Peony, and Piaget Limelight Gala Milanese Mesh

The pre-selected Ladies watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above; these are: Fabergé Lady Levity, Audemars Piguet Millenary, Bovet 1822 Blue Thistles, Bulgari Serpenti Spiga, Chopard L.U.C XP 35 mm Esprit de Fleurier Peony, and Piaget Limelight Gala Milanese Mesh.

Further reading: Chopard L.U.C. XP 35 mm Espirit de Fleurier Peony and the Fabergé Lady Levity in Best Of Baselworld 2016: The Top 5 Ladies’ Watches.

Ladies’ High-Mech

Ladies’ High-Mech constitutes women’s watches remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications that do not fit the definition of the simple Ladies’ category.

Pre-selected Ladies’ High-Mech watches in the 2016 GPHG; Ulysse Nardin Skeleton Tourbillon Pearl, Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Lumière, Christophe Claret Marguerite, Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge, Louis Vuitton Tambour Color Blossom Spin Time, and Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down Art Deco

The pre-selected Ladies’ High-Mech watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Ulysse Nardin Skeleton Tourbillon Pearl, Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Lumière, Christophe Claret Marguerite, Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge, Louis Vuitton Tambour Color Blossom Spin Time, and Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down Art Deco.

Further reading: Marguerite By Christophe Claret: A Daisy By Any Other Name…, When Confustion Paves The Way To Awe: The Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down, and the Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Lumière in Best Of Baselworld 2016: The Top 5 Ladies’ Watches.

Men’s

Men’s watches comprise two at most of the following indications: date, power reserve, classic moon phase, second time zone. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats’ worth of gemstones.

Pre-selected Men’s watches in the 2016 GPHG: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Email, Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860, Czapek Genève 33 bis Quai des Bergues, Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire, Tudor Heritage Black Bay, and Urban Jürgensen Reference 2340

The pre-selected Men’s watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above clockwise from top left: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Email, Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860, Czapek Genève 33 bis Quai des Bergues, Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire, Tudor Heritage Black Bay, and Urban Jürgensen Reference 2340.

Further reading: Introducing The Exquisite Slim d’Hermès Email Grand Feu, Calling On The Village: Czapek & Cie. And The Quai Des Bergues Collection, and Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire In the Horological House Of Orange.

Chronograph

Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Pre-selected Chronograph watches in the 2016 GPHG: Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar, Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition, Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire, Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse, Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition, and Zenith El Primero 36’000 VpH

The pre-selected Chronograph watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar, Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition, Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire, Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse, Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition, and the Zenith El Primero 36’000 VpH.

Further reading: Celebrating 20 Years Of Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Line and the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire in Give Me Five! Sapphire Crystal Cases At Baselworld 2016 From Hublot, 4N, Rebellion, MB&F, And Bell & Ross.

Tourbillon

In the Tourbillon category, we find mechanical watches containing at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Pre-selected Tourbillon watches in the 2016 GPHG: Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon, Bovet 1822 Ottantasei Flying Tourbillon, De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon, Louis Moinet Sideralis Evo, and Rudis Sylva RS 16 Harmonious Oscillator

The pre-selected Tourbillon watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon, Bovet 1822 Ottantasei Flying Tourbillon, De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon, Louis Moinet Sideralis Evo, and Rudis Sylva RS 16 Harmonious Oscillator.

Further reading: Transparently Sublime Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection, Bar One Tiny “Flaw.”

Calendar

The GPHG Calendar category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g., annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phase display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Pre-selected Calendar watches in the 2016 GPHG: Andersen Genève Perpetual Secular Calendar 20th Anniversary, Andreas Strehler Lune Exacte, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue, and MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual

The pre-selected Calendar watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Andersen Genève Perpetual Secular Calendar 20^th Anniversary, Andreas Strehler Lune Exacte, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue, and MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual.

Further reading: Why Legacy Machine Perpetual Catapults MB&F Into the Big League; Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono: Who Do You See?; the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue in Extremely Funky Minimalism: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept; Andreas Strehler’s Lune Exacte in Objects Of Desire: Independent Watches At Baselworld 2016; and Svend Andersen’s Perpetual Secular Calendar in Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-)Retired, But His Brand Lives On.

Travel Time

The Travel Time category, a new one in 2016, includes watches with two or more time zones on GMT, world time, dual time, or UTC watches. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

And here’s a first: a pocket watch has been pre-selected for the GPHG! Congratulations to Montblanc for this bold move and the bold watch.

Pre-selected Travel Time watches in the 2016 GPHG: Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ, Bovet 1922 Virtuoso VI Triple Time Zone, De Bethune DB25 World Traveller, Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone, Manufacture Royale 1770 Haute Voltige, and Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum Pocket Watch 110 Years Edition

The pre-selected Travel Time watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ, Bovet 1922 Virtuoso VI Triple Time Zone, De Bethune DB25 World Traveller, Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone, Manufacture Royale 1770 Haute Voltige, and Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum Pocket Watch 110 Years Edition.

Further reading: Fabergé’s Visionnaire DTZ: A Surprising Way To Display A Second Time Zone; Displaying World Time “Mysteriously”: The De Bethune DB25 World Traveller; Why The Manufacture Royale 1770 Voltige Has No Need to “Humble Brag”; and Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum Pocket Watch 110 Years Edition in Montblanc Celebrates 110 Years With 2 Pocket Watches And Special Edition Wristwatches From The 4810 Collection.

Mechanical Exception

The Mechanical Exception category features watches with a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

Pre-selected Mechanical Exception watches in the 2016 GPHG: Chanel Monsieur de Chanel, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, Bovet 1822 Récital 18 Shooting Star Tourbillon, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1, and the Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P

The pre-selected Mechanical Exception watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Chanel Monsieur de Chanel, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, Bovet 1822 Récital 18 Shooting Star Tourbillon, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1, and the Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P.

Further reading: Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P: Hybrid Performance, Piaget Perfection; Ferdinand Berthoud Is Reborn With FB 1 Thanks To Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele; and the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel in Surprising Ties That Bind: Chanel and Romain Gauthier.

Petite Aiguille

Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category should have a retail price below 8,000 Swiss francs.

Pre-selected Petite Aiguille watches in the 2016 GPHG: Hermès Slim d’Hermès, Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph Enamel Dial, Tiffany & Co. East West Automatic, Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, Vulcain 50s Presidents Watch Tradition, and Zenith Pilot Ton-Up

The pre-selected Petite Aiguille watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Hermès Slim d’Hermès, Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph Enamel Dial, Tiffany & Co. East West Automatic, Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, Vulcain 50s Presidents Watch Tradition, and Zenith Pilot Ton-Up.

Further reading: Introducing Slim d’Hermès: The Elegant New Backbone Of The Hermès Collection and Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze: An Attractive Diver’s Watch at Just the Right Price.

Sports

The Sports category contains watches linked to the field of sports, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to physical activities.

Pre-selected Sport watches in the 2016 GPHG: Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon, Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300, Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Limited Edition, Ressence Type 5B, TAG Heuer Heuer Monza Chronograph, and Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

The pre-selected Sports watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above: Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon, Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300, Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Limited Edition, Ressence Type 5B, TAG Heuer Heuer Monza Chronograph, and Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark.

Further reading: Boom Times! Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon.

Jewellery

Jewellery watches demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gemsetting. These timepieces are also distinguished by the choice of precious and/or semi-precious stones featured in them.

Pre-selected Jewellery watches in the 2016 GPHG: Voutilainen Scintillante, Audemars Piguet Diamond Fury, Chanel Secret Watch “Signature Grenat,” Chopard Precious Chopard Watch, Graff Princess Butterfly, and Hublot Big Bang Impact Bang

The pre-selected Jewellery watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above clockwise from top left: Voutilainen Scintillante, Audemars Piguet Diamond Fury, Chanel Secret Watch “Signature Grenat,” Chopard Precious Chopard Watch, Graff Princess Butterfly, and Hublot Big Bang Impact Bang.

Further reading: Graff’s Princess Butterfly Gracefully Opens Wings To Reveal A Secret: The Time.

Artistic Crafts

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine-turning), skeletonizing, and more.

Pre-selected Artistic Craft watches in the 2016 GPHG: Hermès Arceau Tigre, Voutilainen Triton et Sirène, Bulgari Lvcea Tourbillon Il Giardino Paradiso, Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition, and Piaget’s XXL Protocol Secrets & Lights Venice Micro-Mosaic

The pre-selected Artistic Crafts watches for the 2016 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above clockwise from top left: Hermès Arceau Tigre, Voutilainen Triton et Sirène, Bulgari Lvcea Tourbillon Il Giardino Paradiso, Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition, and Piaget’s XXL Protocol Secrets & Lights Venice Micro-Mosaic.

Further reading: Roaring Into Life At Full Gallop: Hermès Arceau Tigre Email Ombrant; Seiko’s Credor Fugaku Tourbillon: A Masterpiece Of Horological Art; Blue For You: H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition; and Piaget’s Mythical Journey To Secrets And Lights: A Collection Of Stunning One-Of-A-Kind Timepieces.

And in case you missed our coverage of the 2015 event, you might like Reflections On The 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

For more information, please visit www.gphg.org.