Up close and personal: Philippe Dufour Duality dial desktop photo

Independent Watchmaking: A New Trend Or Just A Trendy Term?

The word “independent” is used frequently in connection with watchmakers and brands that couldn’t be more different in their scope; and we seem to be seeing more “independent watchmakers” and “independent niche brands” pop up. In this new age of “independents” how can we determine who actually is and who isn’t (but claims to be) independent?

Zenith Defy Zero G in red gold on red gold bracelet

Zenith Defy Zero G: A Lesson In Miniaturization

The 2018 Zenith Defy Zero G miniaturizes in an astonishing manner: this is a next-generation watch coming a nice round ten years after the original Defy Xtreme Zero G was introduced in 2008.

Independent art: Tourbillon Souverain from F.P. Journe

Behind The Lens: The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain (Archive)

As part of my “enthusiast collector” role here at Quill & Pad I will be taking a look at watches that strike my fancy, and sharing the visual results with you along with a few observations on photography, the watches themselves, and the collectors who own them.
Let’s get started, shall we? Our subject for this episode: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso with impressive rock setting

Diamond-Set Watches: Who Knew Fine Craftsmanship Was So Complicated?

Adding a few diamonds to a watch: how hard can that be? As it turns out, stone setting is a lot more difficult than many appreciate. Diamond-setting watches requires the expertise and craftsmanship of about half a dozen highly skilled craftsmen, each a master of their craft.

The Louis Moinet Compteur de Tierces

Louis Moinet Compteur De Tierces: The World’s First (Known) Chronograph (Archive)

The Louis Moinet compteur de tierces is one of the most remarkable finds in horological history in an extremely long time: it was the very first chronograph ever made.

For the children: Unique Homage to Walter Lange to be auctioned for charity

Hands On With The Unique Piece A. Lange & Söhne Homage To Walter Lange In Stainless Steel: Tribute Through Charity

As you might expect, the Homage To Walter Lange In Stainless Steel feels light, but not overly so. At 40.5 mm in diameter it is not a small watch, but the black face and generous bezel make the watch wear a bit smaller – certainly a much tidier size than the Double Split!

Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm

5 Reasons Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex, But . . . There’s A “But” (Archive)

John Keil has never owned a Rolex – despite the fact that he is a big watch nut – and here’s why. Firstly, though, he makes it clear that he hasn’t got anything at all against Rolex. The brand makes great watches . . . but there’s a but.

Silicon: A Closer Look At The Material That Unleashed A Refreshing Range Of Haute Horlogerie Ideas

Following the recent article on silicon balance springs by watchmaker Ashton Tracy called ‘Is Silicon Here To Stay In (Rolex) Watch Movements?’ Timothy Treffry decided to take a closer, more technical look at the intriguing silicon material from which the components are made.

Vintage Jaeger "Panda dial 4 ATM"

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better

Deciding whether or not to restore a vintage watch is a tough decision to make. The internet is awash with tales of watches butchered by an incompetent independent watchmaker or, worse still, the brand itself. Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted. Refinish the case? Change the hands? Replace the crystal? Here is some help for you.