Urwerk and MB&F are two stalwarts of contemporary watchmaking with, superficially at least, much in common. Here Ian Skellern shares what he thinks are the significant similarities and differences between these two leaders in modern independent watchmaking.
John McGonigle has launched the H-B1, the first watch under his solo brand Oileán. It’s a beautifully hand finished triple-calendar column wheel chronograph powered by a highly modified new-old stock Valjoux 88 movement. While not cheap, Ian Skellern thinks it’s the best value-for-money, exquisitely hand-finished, complicated watch he has ever seen.
For GaryG the wonderful Antiqua by Vianney Halter is a long-term keeper. He fell for the Antiqua when he first saw one more than a dozen years ago; while many of his friends will freely confess that at the time they were at first put off by its looks, Gary was smitten from the start. But that’s not all that he loves about this watch. Find out here why he bought it!
American clockmaker Rick Hale’s new Wind & Water has a lot of nerdy mechanical and horological tidbits to geek out over, not to mention some fun woodworking details that add another level like a timber grasshopper escapement (with wooden pallets, naturally). But it’s the fluid design and immersible craftsmanship that is bound to take your the breath away.
GaryG loves independent watchmaking and independent watchmakers; one of his great joys as a collector is having the feeling that, in a small way, he is supporting their efforts. So he put some thought into why many independent watchmakers struggle in a business sense and how they can remain relevant in changing market situations.
The Latin phrase “in memoriam” is often used in place of “in memory of.” And to my mind, people also use it to signify departed who may be gone but shouldn’t be forgotten. Every year people working in the watch industry pass away, and brands come and go. Elizabeth Doerr highlights a special few of those we lost in 2020.
Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin’s holiday-themed Santa Wristmon is appropriately seasonal. And whatever you may think of Chaykin’s parade of themed faces in the wake of his ultra-successful Joker, you have to admit they’re really cute. They make Elizabeth Doerr smile every time she sees one. This one might give you all the feels at this time of year, too.
It’s no surprise that MB&F would create a special limited series of Legacy Machines honoring Jules Verne and the type of retro-futurism found within his novels. Yet this project is also the artistic child of master engraver Eddy Jaquet who has worked with MB&F for the last decade and was the driver behind the focus of each piece on and how to realize it. The results of these eight unique timepieces are simply spectacular.
“I have no secrets as past watchmakers had. There are graveyards full of secrets and that’s enough.” – Philippe Dufour, 2014
The Linde Werdelin Octopus Blue Sea, a collaboration between Danish boutique brand Linde Werdelin and Sweden-based James “Black Badger” Thompson, pushes lume to the limit. When the lights are out it’s high time for this watch to light up! Find out how right here.