The Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower incorporates a rare mechanical element that the brand is famous for: the automat. The astonishing automat is a surprising touch that delights and entices, once again reinforcing the original thoughts of the very creative Pierre Jaquet Droz. Prepare to be amazed.
In 2015, the Bubble, now 15 years old, makes a reappearance in Corum’s Heritage collection. Like other Heritage timepieces, the new Bubble is not simply a replica of what was. Naturally, it has been slightly altered to fit the times, which lends it a whole new proportion. It’s both bigger and funkier than ever.
Baselworld 2015 marks a rebirth for Fabergé that includes several important elements such as high jewelry, an original imperial-style egg, and a full collection of watches. The latter includes the stunning Lady Compliquée Peacock and Lady Compliquée Winter.
Manufacture Royale’s most controversial, and undoubtedly most incredible, piece is the highly complicated Opera, which features a minute repeater, tourbillon, and, most anachronistically, a hinged telescoping case. Basically, it’s big, it’s bold, and it rocks. And like the opera (theater), the Opera (watch) is not for everybody. But those that like it love it. I love it.
The Jean Dunand Shabaka, named for a twenty-fifth dynasty pharaoh of Egypt, was an Art Deco-inspired watch that could be customized, but its shaped case and unusual displays comprising cylinder rolls was not easily combined with stones and the type of dials that were common on the already-released Tourbillon Orbital. The new Shabaka is presented for the first time in a round 47 mm case – perfect for combining with artisanal dials.
The new Louis Moinet Memoris places emphasis on the chronograph function rather than the time-telling displays. CEO and creative director Jean-Marie Schaller has an interesting viewpoint: not to see the chronograph as a complication here, but rather as the primary function: he says it is a “watch chronograph” rather than a “watch.”
Philippe Delhotal, creative director of La Montre Hermès, looked a bit apprehensive as he pulled out his new line to show me. He hadn’t had much feedback from anyone outside La Montre Hermès yet, and he was probably more than curious to know what others would think. Still, he needn’t have worried. The Slim d’Hermès is . . . well, really so Hermès; the perfect synthesis of the things that Hermès does so well. Which means that it is by no means ordinary and beyond perfect in every detail while remaining eminently wearable.
Timeburner represents the first instance of two AHCI members − Miki Electa and Marc Jenni − publicly working together. Eleta (clockmaker/kinetic artist) came up with the concept and created a functioning prototype, while Jenni (watchmaker) developed and produces the production models. Miki Eleta’s name is on the dial, while the back of the nicely modified Unitas movement is engraved “Powered by Marc Jenni.”
For this edition of Behind the Lens, I’m sharing a series of photographs of one of the great watches of our time, the Philippe Dufour Duality. The Duality, with its linked twin escapements, was originally planned for production in a series of 25 watches. In a turn of events that seems almost unbelievable today, a lack of initial demand eventually led Dufour to limit production to just nine pieces, one of which is owned by a good friend of mine.
Science fiction asks that you remember those that tell you “it can’t be done” are right . . . if you believe them. Never believe them. The watch I want to focus on today is from a brand that always brings its A-game. This brand is a science-fictionalist. This brand is De Bethune. And the watch we’re talking about here is the DB28 GS.