In this age of digital information, watch companies try to get ahead of the competition by releasing news on new timepieces ahead of the big watch fairs.
This year is no different, and in honor of the upcoming 27th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which opens its doors on January 16, 2017, we present you with an overview of some of the new models that have already been revealed – at least electronically.
Ressence Type 12 Squared
The Type 12 Squared is Ressence’s answer to the dress watch. And being Ressence, it is in no way typical. The Type 12 Squared is thinner and slightly smaller than previous models thanks to a solid case back (instead of sapphire crystal) and a retractable winding/setting “bow” on the back.
Ressence Type 1 Squared with blue dial
The case back of the Ressence Type 1 Squared with the time-setting bow folded out for use
The Type 12 Squared (or Type 1 Squared?) also features an attractive cushion-shaped case and a very useful interchangeable strap system.
Ressence Type 1 Squared with silver dial
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic customized Caliber ETA 2824/2 with patented ROCS 1 (Ressence Orbital Convex System) and time-setting system manipulated using a bow; 27 gears and 6 spheres
Case: stainless steel, 41 x 11.5 mm, solid case back including bow
Dial: convex German silver with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4.75° (seconds and weekdays)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; days of week
Price: €17,500 (including VAT)
Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Pin-Up
A burlesque dancer comes to life on the dial of another captivating Ulysse Nardin automaton timepiece.
Quick Facts
Movement: manually wound Caliber UN-610 with automatic chime activation system and jaquemarts; chime on half and full hour
Case: pink gold and platinum, 43 mm
Dial: black with two hand-miniature painted Jaquemarts
Functions: hours, minutes; hourstriker with chime on half and full hour
Limitation: 28 pieces each in pink gold and platinum
Price: €99,000 in pink gold and €119,000 in platinum
Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing
A new edition of the Le Locle-based brand’s sporty Diver Chronograph in honor of America’s Cup hopeful Artemis Racing.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing
For more on Ulysse Nardin and Artemis see Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver Artemis Racing Watch Race Winner In Bermuda.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-35
Case: stainless steel with matte blue rubber and vulcanized chronograph pushers, 45.8 mm
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Limitation: 250 pieces
Price: €10,800
Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture
A clean, clear, extra-flat automatic timepiece with manufacture movement beautifully exemplifying Ulysse Nardin’s complete mastery of enamel techniques at a very acceptable price.
Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture
For more on Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of enamel see Why Do Ulysse Nardin’s Dials Look So Good? Because Donzé Cadrans Authentically Fires Enamel.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Caliber UN-320 with silicon balance spring and escapement
Case: stainless steel, 40 x 9.6 mm
Dial: grand feu blue enamel
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: €8,800
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time
Following the re-issue of the Geophysic collection in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre brought out the stunning new True Second and Universal Time additions to the line in late 2015, watches that may represent some of the best value for complication money out there. Now a gorgeous tourbillon is added to the line.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time
For more see Stunning New Geophysic Collection From Jaeger-LeCoultre: True Second and Universal Time and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic 1958: Appealingly Adventurous On The Wrist.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 948 with one-minute flying tourbillon
Case: platinum, 43.5 x 14.87 mm
Functions: hours, minutes; universal world time (24 time zones), summer time indication, 24-hour day/night indication
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: approx. $145,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Sphérotourbillon
The Le Sentier-based brand expands its line of timepieces powered by unique dual-wing movements established in 2007 with three new models.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Sphérotourbillon
For more on the uniqueness of these mechanics see Precession Obsession: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon.
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 14.1 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber 382 with dual-wing architecture and bi-axial tourbillon inclined 20 degrees, twin spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes, flyback seconds; date, 24-hour display of second time zone, dual power reserve indications
Price: approx. $238,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronographe
The dual-wing concept makes a lot of sense in conjunction with a chronograph function.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronographe
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 14.1 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber 380 with dual-wing architecture, twin spring barrels with 50-hour power reserve each
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph with jumping seconds, dual power reserve indications
Price: approx. $47,200
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire 42
Oh, and did I mention the new Duomètre dials are made of grey magnetite? This is an iron ore that provides an interesting grey color. To my knowledge, this hasn’t been used in watchmaking before.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire 42
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 13.6 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber 381 with dual-wing architecture, twin spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; jumping stop seconds with zero reset, date, age and moon phase for both hemispheres, dual power reserve indications
Price: approx. $40,900
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large and Medium
Originally introduced in 2012, this line reserved for the feminine wrist is often marked by use of rare crafts and rich colors. And new for 2017 is a return to classic yellow gold!
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium
For more see Heartbeat: The Mesmerizing Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous High Jewellery Tourbillon With Black Enamel Dial and Serious Horology For Women: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 898/A (medium); automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 898D/1 (large)
Case medium: 34 x 8.52 mm, yellow gold
Case large: 38.2 x 9.71 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; day/night indication
Strap: interchangeable strap system
Price: approx. $15,400 (medium, yellow gold); approx. $10,200 (large, steel on bracelet); approx. $9,150 (large, steel on strap), approx. $23,600 (large, pink gold on strap)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large
The Rendez-Vous Sonatina features a mysterious little star discreetly reminding its wearer of a date or appointment, an element that is the hallmark of the Rendez-Vous collection. But this Sonatina version offers a bit more: the delicate tinkle of a tiny hammer inside the automatic movement, effectively doubling the reminder efforts.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large
Yes, these are indeed shades of the classic Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox we’re seeing here, but beautifully executed in a feminine manner.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Caliber 735
Case: 38.2 x 10.59 mm, white or pink gold
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; day/night indication, “rendez-vous” star and alarm to indicate a personal time (moved via second crown)
Strap: interchangeable strap system
Price: approx. $28,000 for pink gold
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon Medium
This moon deviates by one full day only every 985 years. For a listing of the most precise moon phase complications currently on the market, see The 8 Most Accurate Moon Phase Wristwatches Today.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon Medium
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Caliber 935A
Case: 34 x 9.56 mm, pink gold or stainless steel
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; moon phases
Strap: interchangeable strap system
Price: approx. $14,900 (steel on strap); approx. $23,000 (pink gold on strap)
Richard Mille RM 11-02 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Zone Jet Black
You can truly never tire of variations on the RM011 theme, one of the lightest and most technical chronographs on the market.
Richard Mille RM 11-02 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Zone Jet Black
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Richard Mille Caliber RMAC2, rotor with variable geometry
Case: 50 x 42.7 x 16.15 mm, NTPT carbon fiber
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; annual calendar with large date and month, flyback chronograph with central seconds counter and minute countdown timer, 24-hour totalizer, second time zone
Limitation: 88 pieces, available only at boutiques and authorized retailers in the Americas
Price: $180,000
HYT Skull Pocket
HYT uses its liquid mechanics to provide the time on a cool new pocket watch outfitted with the mechanical LED backlighting first seen in the H4 model: a generator powered by turning the dedicated crown provides electricity for the lighting. Once the dynamo is wound, the LEDs flood the movement with light for a maximum of five seconds, also illuminating the time display.
HYT Skull Pocket with open titanium case
While the H4 had white light, this new pocket watch gets flooded with a soft blue backlight (the photo above enhances the green time-telling fluid; the backlight is not on).
HYT Skull Pocket with closed titanium, embossed leather cover
For more on how the liquid time-telling display works, see When Opposites Collide: Microfluidics Of The HYT H1 And H2.
Quick Facts
Case: 59 x 20.6 mm, titanium and black DLC-coated titanium with leather-embossed cover and titanium chain
Movement: manually wound HYT caliber beating at 4 Hz with 65-hour power reserve
Functions: fluid hours, minutes, seconds (left eye); power reserve (right eye), mechanical blue background light loaded by dynamo (crown at 4:30)
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: $115,000 / €115,000 / 115,000 Swiss francs
Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary
This continuously world-record-breaking timepiece for thinness of case turns 60 years old in 2017, and this is cause to celebrate! Which Piaget does with – what else? – a few limited editions. Watch out for “the year of the Altiplano” at SIHH 2017.
The automatic Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary in a 43 mm case
A knife-edge side view of the automatic Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary in a 43 mm case
Back of the manually winding Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary in a 38 mm case; the front looks nearly identical to the 43 mm variation
Quick Facts Manual Winding 38 mm
Case: 38 mm, white gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber 430P, ultra-thin, approx. 43 hours power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 460 pieces
Price: $17,900
Nicely finished automatic Caliber 1200P of the Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary 43 mm
Quick Facts Self-Winding 43 mm
Case: 43 mm, white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 1200P, ultra-thin, approx. 44 hours power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 360 pieces
Price: $23,900
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt
Sometimes I think that Roger Dubuis’s managers didn’t get the memo that 2008 was nine years ago and that watch tastes have since progressed to a more, shall we say, svelte format. Nonetheless, this kind of watchmaking is breathtaking in its sheer machismo and mechanics: the four balances joined by differentials instantly compensate for rate variations.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt
And then there is the funky case material that is created much like ceramics in a process that melts and atomizes the alloy into a fine powder that is blended, heated, and processed.
Quick Facts
Case: 48 x 18.38 mm, cobalt chrome manufactured using the MicroMelt process
Movement: manually wound Caliber RD101 with blue PVD-coated plate and bridges as well as four free-sprung balances and five differentials; 16 (4 x 4) Hz frequency (115,200 vph); Seal of Geneva; 40-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve
Limitation: 8 pieces
Price: 390,000 Swiss francs
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Automatic
More blue and more funky, transparent mechanics. Not bad!
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Automatic
Quick Facts
Case: 45 x 14.02 mm, DLC-coated titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber RD820SQ with micro rotor and Seal of Geneva, NAC-coated plate and bridges; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 88 pieces
Price: 67,000 Swiss francs
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36
I like what is apparently turning into a rhapsody in blue for 2017 at Roger Dubuis.
Quick Facts
Case: 36 x 9.80 mm, DLC-coated titanium, bezel set with 48 blue sapphires (approx. 1.5 ct)
Movement: automatic Caliber RD830
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 28 pieces
Price: 17,000 Swiss francs
Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC
By combining the WW.TC function with a 1966 case, Girard-Perregaux has effectively made one of its most recognized and functional timepieces quite elegant.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC
Quick Facts
Case: 40 x 12 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber GP03300-0022/0027 with 46-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; world time with day/night indicator
Price: $12,300 (stainless steel, strap), $13,000 (stainless steel, bracelet), $23,800 (pink gold, strap)
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 34
Girard-Perregaux was one of the early Swiss pioneers in quartz timekeeping; indeed this brand was also the first to offer a quartz movement small enough to fit a ladies’ watch in 1978. And now these ideals are back.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 34
Quick Facts
Case: 34 x 7.75 mm, stainless steel, pink gold, or two-tone steel and gold, bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.82 ct)
Movement: quartz GP Caliber GP013100-0002/0003/0004
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $8,800 (stainless steel, strap), $9,600 (stainless steel, bracelet)
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon
Cartier is famous for its mysterious clocks as of 1912 and, more recently, mystery watches. This very thin minute repeater with double tourbillon and technical bits showing through the sapphire crystal on the front is sure to turn heads when the 2017 edition of the fair opens!
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon
Quick Facts
Case: 45 x 11.5 mm, titanium, beaded crown set with sapphire cabochon, also available set with baguette-cut diamonds
Movement: manually winding Caliber 9407 MC with double tourbillon, 448 components, Geneva Seal
Functions: hours, minutes; minute repeater
Price: approx. $450,000
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Hour
Another mysterious timepiece, but less complicated and fussy, making it very elegant indeed – particularly with the debut addition of a skeletonized movement.
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Hour
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 11.9 mm, palladium, beaded crown set with sapphire cabochon
Movement: manually winding Caliber 9983 MC, bridges skeletonized in the shape of Roman numerals
Functions: mysterious hours and minutes
Price: approx. $75,000
Cartier Panthère Joueuse
The panther is the magic animal of the house of Cartier, and in this timepiece a “playing” panther joins the fun at the intersection of watchmaking and jewelry.
Cartier Panthère Joueuse
For more on Cartier’s panther see Why Is The Panther Cartier’s Pet Animal? Thank Jeanne Toussaint.
Quick Facts
Case: 40 x 12.05 mm, white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, beaded crown set with a diamond
Dial: panther motif in white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, emerald eyes, and lacquer spots
Movement: automatic Caliber 9918 MC, which moves along with the panther
Functions: hours (ball), minutes (head and paw)
Price: $161,000
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase
A moon phase was added to the classic Lange 1 in 2002 for the first time. Now this romantically inclined timepiece receives an updated movement – the twentieth A. Lange & Söhne caliber to be endowed with a moon phase.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase in platinum
Quick Facts
Case: 38.5 x 10.02 mm, white gold, pink gold, or platinum
Movement: manually wound Caliber L121.3, plates and bridges in German silver, 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; large date, power reserve indication, moon phases with integrated day/night indication
Price: €39,500 (white gold, pink gold), €52,000 (platinum)
IWC Portugieser Rattrapante
This classic split-seconds chronograph first seen in 1995 returns in three limited editions, one each dedicated to the cities of Milan, Paris, and Munich.
IWC Portugieser Rattrapante
Quick Facts
Case: 40.9 x 12.3 mm, red gold (Milan), stainless steel (Paris), stainless steel (Munich)
Movement: manually wound Caliber 76240 (base ETA Valjoux 7750)
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; split-seconds chronograph, tachymeter
Limitation: 100 pieces for each city
Price: $19,700 (Milan), $10,900 (Paris), $10,900 (Munich)
IWC Da Vinci Automatic 36
New for 2017 is the return to round for the Da Vinci collection. And while the brand is not specifically calling the new 36 mm versions “ladies’ watches,” they certainly do fit the female wrist very well.
IWC Da Vinci Automatic 36 in red gold with diamonds
Quick Facts
Case: 36 x 10 mm, red gold or stainless steel with or without diamonds
Movement: automatic Caliber 35111 (base Sellita SW300-1)
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date
Price: $5,500 in stainless steel
IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36
The mid-sized Da Vinci with moon phase helps to balance IWC’s portfolio while attempting to woo the female consumer, a fairly untapped market segment for the Schaffhausen-based brand.
IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 in stainless steel with diamonds
Quick Facts
Case: 36 x 11.5 mm, red gold or stainless steel with or without diamonds
Movement: automatic Caliber 35800 (base Sellita SW300-1)
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date
Price: $16,400 in red gold
Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
The classic stainless steel blue-dial version of this gorgeous Minerva-inspired monopusher chronograph won the chronograph category of the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – and rightfully so. The new bronze-encased version with champagne-colored dial takes the patinated antique look even further to become an instant favorite.
Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
See Quill & Pad’s Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Quick Facts
Case: 44 x 13.5 mm, bronze with titanium case back
Movement: manually wound Caliber MB M16.29 with monopusher column wheel chronograph, red gold-plated German silver plates and bridges, 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; monopusher chronograph, tachymeter
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: €27,500
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time
The antique-looking patination continues on the very attractive Automatic Dual Time model with two-tone case.
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time
Quick Facts
Case: 44 x 12.30 mm, stainless steel with bronze bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber MB 29.19 (base Sellita SW300-1) with in-house complication
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, second time zone with day/night indication
Price: €4,990
Montblanc 1858 Automatic
And for those who love the pared-down look of time only, this new trio offers a simpler version resembling an old pilot’s watch. Just lovely!
Montblanc 1858 Automatic
Quick Facts
Case: 44 x 11.10 mm, stainless steel with bronze bezel
Movement: automatic Caliber MB 24.16 (base Sellita SW260-1)
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €3,490
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon
This is one gorgeous rendition of a tourbillon minute repeater – as only Vacheron Constantin can do.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon in pink gold
For the full story see Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon: Understated Perfection.
Quick Facts
Case: 44 x 12.2 mm, pink gold or platinum
Movement: manual winding Caliber 2755 TMR with one-minute tourbillon, 471 components, approximately 58-hour power reserve, 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)
Functions: hours, minutes; minute repeater
Price: €440,000 in pink gold (excluding tax), €490,000 in platinum (excluding tax)
Vacheron Constantin Harmony Complete Calendar
The new Harmony line arrived during the brand’s 260th anniversary celebrations in 2016. Now ten new unlimited variations to the line are here in time for SIHH 2017.
Vacheron Constantin Harmony Complete Calendar
For the full rundown see Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony Collection: Poetry In Chronographic Motion.
Quick Facts
Case: 40 x 49.3 x 11 mm, pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 2460 QC, Seal of Geneva
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; complete calendar with day, date, month, moon phase, and age of moon
Price: $41,000
Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph
This extremely limited timepiece (26 pieces only) was part of the original introductions in a platinum case. Now it arrives wrapped up in warm, unlimited pink gold for 2017.
Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 52 x 12.81 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber 3200 with one-minute tourbillon, 65-hour power reserve and Seal of Geneva
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon cage; monopusher chronograph with 45-minute counter
Remark: available only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: $245,000
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières
Vacheron Constantin is very creative with its artistic crafts, and the latest collection features high-fire enamel and champlevé in the form of artistically inclined “luminous cities” (“Villes Lumières”) on the dial depicted by Japanese artist Yoko Imai using “calligraphy-inspired painting” and powders in conjunction with the enamel. Three cities have thus far come forth: Geneva, Paris (shown), and New York.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières
Quick Facts
Case: 40 x 8.9 mm, white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 2460 SC with Seal of Geneva
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: numbered and limited production, available only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: $98,600
Christophe Claret Maestro
The three-dimensional “MEMO” (memory) function, cone-shaped large date display, and “reasonable” price tag for such creative high horology are sure to elicit wows from visitors to the 2017 SIHH’s Carré des Horlogers.
Christophe Claret Maestro
Quick Facts
Case: 42 x 16.06 mm, pink gold or titanium
Movement: manually wound Caliber DMC16 with 168 hours of power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; large date shown by disks, MEMO function
Limitation: 88 pieces of each case variation
Price: 68,000 Swiss francs excluding tax in titanium; 76,000 Swiss francs excluding tax in pink gold
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$23,000 looks rather encouragingly cheap for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire 42. Is that a typo?
You were indeed right! The correct price is $40,900. Thanks for the heads up!
Too late, I have placed my order at the Q&P special price and I consider it binding!
lol
While nice to see the new, it is outrageous the prices being charged. Anyone who would pay the amounts that these watch companies are demanding is either so rich as to not care, but don’t do it. These Swiss watch companies are gouging and they should not be allowed to get away with it. Don’t encourage them.
Oh! So you can’t spend a measly $440,000 on a watch? What, do you still have the first dime you made? C’mon D.L., live a little!!! Lol