An automatic watch’s oscillating weight, or rotor, is what winds it up. It does so using the motion of one’s wrist. In many automatic watches, the rotor’s activity is clearly visible via a see-through case back. But in the Dior VIII Grand Bal, this essentially functional component is transformed into a gorgeously decorated focal point of the dial.
The Le Garde Temps, Naissance d’une Montre project separates true lovers of watchmaking from the chaff: there is no big brand name on the dial, celebrity ambassadors, or expensive marketing campaign. It is pure watchmaking for it’s own sake to perpetuate traditional crafts and skills. There is, right now, in this universe, a watch that features the names Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour on its dial.
Here I get the chance to talk about something that our readers probably know I love all too well: a jump hour watch. But not just any jump hour watch, this time it’s the four-handed Speake-Marin Jumping Hours, a piece unique. I was extremely excited, not to mention anxious, to get my hands on this piece, but the wait was worth it.
When I first saw photos of the Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière I liked the technical aspects and thought it an audacious design likely to ignite heated debate in the passionate Angelus collectors’ community, but I wasn’t won over by the watch itself. I liked the fact that it existed, but it wasn’t really to my taste. But after I had seen and handled the U10 Tourbillon Lumière “in the metal,” I got it.
Ulysse Nardin founded his company on the precision required for marine chronometers. So supporting a challenger for the 35th America’s Cup as its official partner more than makes sense, and supporting Artemis Racing makes the most sense of all.
Manufacture Royale’s most controversial, and undoubtedly most incredible, piece is the highly complicated Opera, which features a minute repeater, tourbillon, and, most anachronistically, a hinged telescoping case. Basically, it’s big, it’s bold, and it rocks. And like the opera (theater), the Opera (watch) is not for everybody. But those that like it love it. I love it.
The Jean Dunand Shabaka, named for a twenty-fifth dynasty pharaoh of Egypt, was an Art Deco-inspired watch that could be customized, but its shaped case and unusual displays comprising cylinder rolls was not easily combined with stones and the type of dials that were common on the already-released Tourbillon Orbital. The new Shabaka is presented for the first time in a round 47 mm case – perfect for combining with artisanal dials.
Philippe Delhotal, creative director of La Montre Hermès, looked a bit apprehensive as he pulled out his new line to show me. He hadn’t had much feedback from anyone outside La Montre Hermès yet, and he was probably more than curious to know what others would think. Still, he needn’t have worried. The Slim d’Hermès is . . . well, really so Hermès; the perfect synthesis of the things that Hermès does so well. Which means that it is by no means ordinary and beyond perfect in every detail while remaining eminently wearable.
Timeburner represents the first instance of two AHCI members − Miki Electa and Marc Jenni − publicly working together. Eleta (clockmaker/kinetic artist) came up with the concept and created a functioning prototype, while Jenni (watchmaker) developed and produces the production models. Miki Eleta’s name is on the dial, while the back of the nicely modified Unitas movement is engraved “Powered by Marc Jenni.”
Sunday, the 15th of March, was the last day of the 85th Geneva International Car Show. You might call the last day of the show the “butt end.” I would never use such a term myself, but you might − so what butter, uh, better way to celebrate than a lineup of superbutts; eight perfectly polished posteriors for your personal perusal.