The 2016 edition of the SIHH sees Christophe Claret, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie, Hautlence, HYT, Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, MB&F, and Urwerk exhibiting at the first big watch show of the year, while Ralph Lauren is leaving. The addition and subtraction of these marques enlarges the upcoming Geneva watch fair to encompass 24 brands in total.
In many machines, there is always one, or yes, maybe a few, components without which the machine becomes something fundamentally different. And so it goes in a wristwatch. You might have noticed that I do not say “watch” and instead say “wristwatch.” This is entirely deliberate as a pocket watch and a wristwatch are two different machines. They share a large amount of components and are definitely related, but one “function critical” component sets them apart. You can see where I am going with this: it’s the watch strap.
At the 2015 edition of the SIHH, Richard Mille introduced the stunning RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur.
The tourbillon is nestled within and concealed by a magnolia flower. Every five minutes, or on demand via a pusher, the flying tourbillon rises up from the movement as the flower opens. The petals of the flower are engraved in gold and hand-painted.
In this exceptionally aesthetic video, The Watches TV visits the Richard Mille workshop to discover the story behind the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur.
When someone says “I’m no prude,” it is pretty easy to imagine what typically comes next: a prudish commentary on some aspect of modern society or youth culture. I like sex. There we go! To the point and leaves no doubt as to intent, I’d say. That said, I typically try to keep my interests in sex and watches somewhat distinct. But does the industry at large?
Richard Mille opened his new boutique in Paris. The chic new location just off the Champs-Elysées, whose vicinity is also home to Christie’s and several art galleries in addition to luxurious high fashion boutiques, showcases the now quite substantial collection well. This gorgeous boutique is home to amazing timepieces, while downstairs VIP guests can be treated to private showings while relaxing with a cigar and a glass of fine French champagne.
I recently had the chance to spend two nights at the Hôtel de Vendôme, which is situated as the gateway to Paris’ swankiest shopping square: Place Vendôme. I stayed there as a guest of Chopard on the way to Le Mans, and this is when I learned a very interesting fact: the beautifully appointed hotel housed within an eighteenth-century mansion now belongs to the Swiss brand.
As we approach Vacheron Constantin’s 260th anniversary, which is set to be celebrated on September 17, 2015, I would like to take a brief look at the epochal timepieces that the brand brought out in 2005 in honor of its first quarter century. Vacheron Constantin is one of the very few – and certainly the oldest – Swiss watch company to have manufactured its timepieces consistently without interruption over the entire course of its long lifespan.
The Breguet Reine de Naples collection launched in 2002 following the historic description of an “oblong (repeater) for bracelet.” This now-iconic feminine shape was resurrected 190 years after Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, commissioned Abraham-Louis Breguet to make the repeater for her royal wrist. The Reine de Naples’ oval-shaped case is a rare sight in watchmaking, but it serves to make one of the most memorable watches in production today.
A very significant percentage of the (hand) work − and therefore cost − of a high-end watch goes into the finishing of components.
Today, fine finishing is no longer essential from a practical point of view as watches are assembled in dust- and moisture-free environments, and waterproofing generally does a good job at keeping moisture and dust out of the timepiece during daily use.
But fine finishing isn’t just about mechanical practicality: contrasting finishes visually break up large surfaces, and reflections off mirror-polished steel catches the eye. Finishes can be a signature of sorts: think of Breguet’s guilloche dials or Greubel Forsey’s English-style frosted plates.
Few brands take hand finishing as seriously as Greubel Forsey, where each and every component is individually decorated. Just finishing one bridge can require two days of work. And that’s just one of hundreds of components in the brand’s usually quite complicated movements.
And then the watchmaker has to assemble all of these beautifully decorated parts, without a single scratch.
In this video by The Watches TV, Stephen Forsey explains why finishing is so important to Greubel Forsey and takes a look at the whole process.
Once in a while on the collector forums, a question is posed: is there anyone in the collector community who has never, ever owned a Rolex? As a general rule, respondents to these queries tend to express disbelief that such a creature could possibly exist given the quality and ubiquity of the brand’s watches. Well, folks, I’m here to tell you that such people do exist, and that I’m one of them. How could it be?