The 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of “pre-selected” (shortlisted) watches in the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 7, 2019.

The categories for 2019 constitute the following: Ladies, Ladies’ Complication, Men’s, Men’s Complication, Iconic, Chronograph, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Divers, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs), and Challenge (watches with retail prices under 4,000 Swiss francs).

The main prize of the evening is the Aiguille d’Or, the best watch overall among all the entrants according to the jury.

The pre-selected watches go on a world tour, starting with Sydney on September 27. From there the watches will travel to Bangkok, Mexico, and Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire for public viewing from November 1 through November 14 before going to Dubai for public exhibition during Dubai Watch Week.

But enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes as of today.

GPHG 2019: Ladies

The Ladies category contains women’s watches comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.

Shortlisted Ladies watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori, Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1, Hermès Galop d’Hermès, Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium, Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Arabian Nights Milanaise, and Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée

Further reading:

Back In Black: 3 New Watches With Black Dials From Patek Philippe, Hublot, And Omega

Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History

GPHG 2019: Ladies Complication

According to this category’s description, Ladies Complication constitutes women’s watches remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phase, a digital or retrograde time display, world time, dual time or others. These do not fit the definition of the Ladies or Mechanical Exception categories.

Shortlisted Ladies Complication watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Bulgari Diva’s Dream The Roman Night, Chaumet Soleil de Minuit Flying Tourbillon, Jacob & Co. Fleurs de Jardin, Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air, MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, and Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux Aries

Further reading:

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT: A Sensational Ladies Watch Both Technically And Visually Scintillating

GPHG 2019: Men

Men’s watches comprise the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats’ worth of gemstones.

Shortlisted Men’s watches for the 2019 edition of the GPHG (from top left): Alchemists Mechanical Healing Cu29, De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones, Grand Seiko Spring Drive Manual-Winding Platinum, Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic, Laurent Ferrier Bridge One, and Kari Voutilainen 28ti

Further reading:

Kari Voutilainen 28ti: The Flip Side Has Never Looked So Good

‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux

GPHG 2019: Men’s Complication

Men’s Complication watches are to be remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phase, a digital or retrograde time display, world time, dual time or others. These do not fit the definition of the Men’s or Mechanical Exception categories.

Shortlisted Men’s Complication watches for the 2019 edition of the GPHG (from top left): Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie, Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Ombres, D. Candaux DC6-Solstice, Ulysse Nardin Freak X, Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon, and Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon

Further reading:

Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet: How To Fail At Marketing, AKA To Break The Rules You Must First Master Them

Hearing Is Believing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie And The Science Of Sound

Ulysse Nardin Freak X: The ‘Affordable’ Freak

Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon: Partnering For Perfection (Plus Video)

GPHG 2019: Iconic

Iconic is a new category emphasizing men’s or ladies’ watches from a brand’s emblematic collection, meaning one that has had a lasting influence on watchmaking and its history as well as having been on the market for more than 25 years.

Shortlisted Iconic watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin, Girard-Perregaux Quasar, Hamilton Intra-Matic Automatic Chronograph, IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years, TAG Heuer Monaco Eighties, and Zenith El Primero A384 Revival

Further reading:

IWC Tribute To Pallweber Edition Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Brand’s First Wristwatch With Digital Display

First 3 TAG Heuer Monaco Limited Editions In Celebration Of 50 Years Of The First Automatic Chronograph

GPHG 2019: Chronograph

Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Shortlisted Chronograph watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, Chopard L.U.C Chrono One Flyback, Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT 3D Carbon, Louis Moinet Chronosphère, TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Nanograph, and Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon

Further reading:

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph: New Carbon-Composite Tech Offering Big Advantages

Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT: The Fourth Time’s A Charm

GPHG 2019: Chronometry

In the Chronometry category – renamed from 2017’s “Tourbillon and Escapement” – we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving precision timekeeping. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Shortlisted Chronometry watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Antoine Preziuso TTR3 Blue Equalizer Frequencies, Armin Strom Pure Resonance Rose Gold, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Carburized Steel Regulator, IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition Le Petit Prince, TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph, and Zenith Defy Inventor

Further reading:

Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon Of Tourbillons: Fractals Meet ‘Inception’

On The Wrist: Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1: Distinctly Different, Technically Superlative (And Videos)

TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph: Carbon-Composite High-Tech Hairspring For All

Zenith Defy Inventor: Experimental Compliant Tech Goes Into Serial Watch Production

GPHG 2019: Calendar and Astronomy

Calendar and Astronomy is also a new category meant to emphasize astronomical and/or calendar complications included in men’s watches. These timepieces must include at least one of the following: date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phase, or other. Additional indications are admissible.

Shortlisted Calendar and Astronomy watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L Far Side of the Moon, Girard-Perregaux Cosmos, Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, Sarpaneva Lunations, and Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht

Further reading:

Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet: How To Fail At Marketing, AKA To Break The Rules You Must First Master Them

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L: When History Has A Date With Progress

Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos: A Mechanical Connection To The Great, Wide Universe

Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune: And Pegasus Flies On The Moon

Sarpaneva Lunations: The Latest Moon Phase Tech That Lasts (Almost) Forever – With Video

GPHG 2019: Mechanical Exception

The Mechanical Exception category features men’s or ladies’ watches with a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, a striking or other acoustic function, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

Shortlisted Mechanical Exception watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar, Genus GNS1.2, Ulysse Nardin Freak NeXt, Urwerk AMC, Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat

Further reading:

Introducing Genus GNS1.2 By Sébastien Billières: A Serpentine Turning Point In Horological Indications (With Lume Video)

Urwerk AMC: Atomic (Clock) Mechanical Control Is A 21st Century Version Of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Sympathique Clocks But Much, Much Better (Geiger Counter Not Included)

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat: User-Controlled Dual Frequency Offers Greater Precision, Less Wear, And Option Of Two-Month Power Reserve

GPHG 2019: Divers

The Divers category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity.

Shortlisted Divers watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu, Longines HydroConquest, Reservoir Hydrosphere Blackfin, Ressence Type 5, Seiko Prospex LX, and Ulysse Nardin Diver Great White

Further reading:

Everything Is Possible: De Bethune DB28 GS

GPHG 2019: Jewellery

Jewellery watches demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gemsetting. These timepieces are also distinguished by the choice of stones featured in them.

Shortlisted Jewellery watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani, Chopard Waterlily, Hermès Arceau H Déco, Hublot Big Bang One Click Rainbow, Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon, and Van Cleef & Arpels Jardin de Glace Secret

Further reading:

Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History

GPHG 2019: Artistic Crafts

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine-turning), skeletonizing, and more.

Shortlisted Artistic Crafts watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Andersen Genève Vita Vinum, Bereve Timepieces Numbers, Chopard L.U.C. XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony, Hermès Arceau Baobab Cat, Jacob & Co Astronomia Dragon, Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

GPHG 2019: Petite Aiguille

Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category are offered for a retail price that falls between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs.

The shortlisted Petite Aiguille watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): David Rutten Meteorite Watches Streamline, IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire, Kudoke Kudoke 2, Maurice Lacroix Aikon Mercury, Trilobe Les Matinaux Sunray Grey, and Zenith Pilot Type 20 Silver

GPHG 2019: Challenge

Watches entered into the Challenge category are offered for a retail price under 4,000 Swiss francs.

Shortlisted Challenge watches for the 2019 GPHG (from top left): Ciga Design Single-Hand Mechanical Wristwatch Series Globe, Doxa SUB 200, Gorilla Watches Fastback GT Drift, Ming 17.06 Copper, Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial, and Tudor Black Bay P01

Further reading:

Gorilla Fastback GT Mirage, Bandit, And Drift: Racing Forward

Musing On The Ming Model 19.02: Micro Brand To Mega Brand?

The Tudor Black Bay P01 And The Story Of The 1967 Prototype That Inspired It

You might also enjoy our extensive coverage of the 2018 event: What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Plus How Well Our Panel’s Forecasts Did.

For more information, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2019/pre-selected-watches.