In this final round table discussion, my Quill & Pad colleagues and I discuss the amazing evening of November 7, 2019 and what we thought of the big night’s winners. Our panel consists of:

Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd writer
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Green (MG), resident gentleman
Sean Li (SL), editorial director of Blackbird Watch Manual

GG: Another edition of GPHG is in the books! I was deeply honored to serve in 2019 for the second time as a juror and found the experience of spending an intense day debating the merits of this year’s pre-selected pieces both enjoyable and informative.

ED: I could not agree with that more, Gary! As a nine-time juror I can safely say that the GPHG voting day is my favorite professional day of the year, one where watch geeks come together to debate details most people never even think of. I love it!

SL: And another Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is behind us. I’ve always been impressed how the industry does get together as a whole on that one evening, and I applaud not only the brands that have remained faithful and presented their watches this year but also the new brands making their first appearances.

ED: Absolutely, Sean. I was so pleased for the new entrants able to show their stuff to the world in this way – Stefan Kudoke and Ming Thein among them. What a superb platform for them.

MG: Year after year the GPHG continues to prove its relevance in the world of watches, and this year is no different. One of the conclusions I reached during our discussions of the preselected watches is that whichever watch won in the respective categories, none of them would be “unworthy” of the prize. That being said, I am still curious about what goes on in the minds of the jury at the moment that the individual members vote. There are so many ways on how to approach the pre-selected watches, and each approach can lead to a completely different winner.

IS: In the decades I’ve been following and attending the GPHG, there have been a few excellent evenings in which I’ve agreed with the vast majority of choices, a few I’ve thought shameful, and many where I wished I’d stayed home with a good book. I rate 2019 among the former as, while not all of the winners were my first choice, I didn’t think that any of the laureates were not well deserving of the prize. And while there were a few surprises (one in particular), we wouldn’t be talking about the event at all without them. Better a bit of controversy than bland.

MG: With the 2019 edition of the GPHG, we can also conclude that thin is in: the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT rightly took home the prize for the best chronograph, while the Aiguille d’Or went to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Both two very impressive watches, and as resident-gentleman of Quill & Pad I am ecstatic that this category of watches is still something that manufacturers invest in. I do think that the ball is now also firmly in Piaget’s court, as one of the dominant players throughout the years in this category, to come with a proper response.

JM: The show itself began on a somber note with a singer crooning a melancholy tune, which seems a bit odd to get people excited, but the Swiss always do things differently. And it matched the energy that is usually seen at the GPHG. High-end watchmaking is always given respect and reverence, and for that reason frivolity is always a tough prospect.

Having a pianist on stage at all times to play people off was nice and felt less impersonal than some music played through the speakers to drown out the winners’ speech, and I guess it fit with the theme of the year.

Overall the event was paced fairly normally, and while I didn’t agree with some choices, I think the 2019 GPHG was still a top year with a lot of great pieces being honored.

Ladies: Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1

JM: I did not pick this piece, though Sean did. It appears that the rest of us were wrong, though I don’t know if I agree that it should have won. It is indeed a fine watch, but as a unisex style I’m a bit disappointed that a more obviously elegant feminine piece didn’t win.

SL: What can I say? A well-deserved win for Chanel and a nice reward for the steps that the brand has made to deepen its commitment to mechanical watchmaking.

Best ladies watch of the year: Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1

MG: I was a bit surprised that the Chanel J12 won the Ladies prize, too, Joshua. While I consider it an important ladies watch as well as an excellent design, I was hoping that the new version would be a bit more of a revolution instead of a quiet evolution. Nevertheless, this is a very wearable watch that will serve many women around the globe as a wonderful daily wearer.

IS: While I didn’t expect the Chanel J12 to win the Ladies category, when it did it reminded me of just how impressed I was at Baselworld earlier this year when Chanel explained just how much went into updating the brand’s most iconic watch. While, superficially, the new J12 doesn’t look very different to its predecessor, there’s practically nothing that hasn’t been changed and updated. It really is a completely new watch compared to the old. Yes, it’s a unisex watch, but being also suitable for men doesn’t disqualify the J12 as a ladies watch in my opinion. Not my first choice, but I do feel it a good choice and worthy winner.

GG: I go to into the jury room to listen as well as talk, and I was substantially influenced in several cases to consider pieces I hadn’t fully considered earlier. In the Ladies’ category, among the mechanical movement watches the Chanel J12 was basically a full re-launch of the familiar line including a newly developed movement, and that factor was surely very helpful in convincing many jurors to favor it over the more traditional, and better-finished, Moritz Grossman.

ED: I felt the Ladies category didn’t necessarily have a clear winner going into the discussions, and the resulting win for the revamped Chanel was overall a choice that sits well with me. While this watch is not a revolution over its 19-year-old existence thus far, it is a mechanical evolution that makes a lot of sense and is pleasing to an aficionado such as myself.

One thing I might mention is that the J12 is really a unisex watch. I have seen men wearing it. And I have seen men wearing it on the streets of Paris. And I have seen those men’s female partners wearing the same watch, too. Such is the versatility of this particular timepiece.

See how well our team predicted the winners in this category in Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Ladies Complication: MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

ED: Here, however, I definitely felt there was a clear winner going into discussion day – and thankfully that feeling was confirmed, and MB&F founder Max Büsser was able to claim his well-deserved trophy at the GPHG after taking home two awards in the previous two weeks at SIAR and at CH24.PL’s annual Watch of the Year.

JM: We all unanimously agreed that this should win and it did. Can we say more? It’s awesome, so glad it won.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Black Lacquer on the wrist

GG: For a guy who claims he knows nothing about ladies’ watches, Max Büsser did a heck of a job! MrsGaryG has been lobbying for one of these since the time she first saw a photo, and I take that as a strong endorsement of a watch that also captivated me.

MG: That the Legacy Machine FlyingT by MB&F would win the Ladies Complication category was a given for me. It is such an exquisite design and so well executed that I don’t know what else a watch could have brought to the table to secure victory.

IS: As far as I’m concerned, the only way that the FlyingT couldn’t win the Ladies Complication category was if it had been bumped up to the Aiguille d’Or. This isn’t just a fantastic ladies watch, it’s an incredible timepiece by any definition. And all the more surprising as it’s MB&F’s first ladies watch. I’m looking forward to what they will they do with more confidence and experience in this genre.

SL: I’m two for two so far! In spite of it not technically being a complication, it’s a fantastic achievement for Max Büsser as this one was particularly close to his heart.

ED: Good that you bring up that “complication” topic, Sean – that was a huge debate among some of us as well. But I see the problem being the grey area of the word, which has never been officially defined (much like “grand complication”) and with only a few traditionalists debating semantics . . .

See how well the team made its predictions in Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!

Further reading: MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT: A Sensational Ladies Watch Both Technically And Visually Scintillating

Men’s: Kari Voutilainen 28ti

GG: The big highlight for me was having the opportunity as a prize presenter to announce the Men’s award to Kari Voutilainen and to greet him onstage as he bounded up to accept the trophy. Doesn’t get much better for a watch enthusiast, period. And as a longtime client and friend I could barely contain my excitement at the result.

SL: The jury has often had a soft spot for Voutilainen, so it’s no surprise to see him take this prize home.

Kari Voutilainen 28Ti

MG: Kari Voutilainen must be a very happy man, winning not only the prize for the Men’s watch but also for this year’s best Artistic Crafts watch. I also see this as recognition for the man himself as it confirms that his aesthetic and technical drive are both at an exceptional level.

IS: Once again I underestimated the jury. The Voutilainen 28ti was my favorite, but I fully expected the jury to go for a more conservative design, like the Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic, as it usually has in years past. In my prediction I wrote, “The Voutilainen 28ti is a dream watch for me (along with the Akrivia AK-06) that ticks all of the boxes. Clean, well-executed design and a sensational inverted movement enabling a full view to the superbly hand-finished mechanics. If the Voutilainen 28ti won best Men’s watch 2019 I’d be overjoyed, but I suspect that what makes this model so appealing to me – its open dial – will count against it among the more conservative members of the GPHG jury.”

ED: This was another touch-and-go category without a super clear winner going into the debating, and there were a handful of deserving pieces. I was ecstatic to see Kari’s concept of turning the movement around to show through the front confirmed by the jury, though! This man can do no wrong, and I am very happy to see that is also officially the case.

GaryG presenting Kari Voutilainen with the trophy for for best Men’s watch for at the 2019 GPHG (photo courtesy Grégory Maillot/Point of Views)

JM: I didn’t flinch when the Voutilainen won even though I picked something else because it is a freaking awesome piece. I wondered if the jury would go more traditional for the Men’s category but, alas, it enjoyed the variety and went with the independent flair!

Find out how we did with our predictions in Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision.

Further reading: Kari Voutilainen 28ti: The Flip Side Has Never Looked So Good

Men’s Complication: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

SL: The first of Audemars Piguet’s récolte for 2019: a beautiful watch that probably would’ve been a contender in other categories as well.

MG: That the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Supersonnerie won in the men’s complication category did come as a surprise. Was the jury enticed by the incredible complication or the design of the 11.59? Or perhaps a combination of both? Does this vindicate the 11.59 collection as a whole after its less than perfect launch? I think that the latter might not be the case (no pun intended) but that the jury was especially enamored by the incredible sound that this watch produces when activated. Granted, I think that the 11.59 looks more beautiful than the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie but would have vastly preferred the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie that Audemars Piguet launched just a few days ago over this.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

GG: The Men’s Complication result received a lot of attention following the award ceremony, and it was a difficult one to navigate in the jury room. Several of the entries, including the winner, were re-packaged versions of watches we’ve seen before, and some of the novel ones, including the Ulysse Nardin Freak X and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon, perhaps suffered from being “less complicated” than the Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie that took the prize.

While all of the ballots are secret, my sense is that sentiment was likely split across several watches in this category and a core group of folks who favored the AP carried the day. I’m of two minds on that watch: the Supersonnerie has competed at GPHG twice before, and actually won a prize in 2016 in Concept Watch form, and this year’s piece simply re-packages that movement in Audemars Piguet’s problematic Code 11.59 form. That said, having heard the new version side by side with the prior Jules Audemars one, this year’s watch sounds better! The AP wasn’t my choice, but when they look at the trophy case in Le Sentier the Audemars Piguet folks won’t care, I’m sure.

JM: Not technically surprising, and yet feels like the only way it won was based on the sound, which is arguably one of the best ever. The Code 11.59 has been a tough watch to love, and the CEO seemed smug as heck getting that award. Good for him. It’s hard to argue with an AP Supersonnerie, but since it is an existing innovation in a new (controversial) case, I still didn’t know if it had legs. But I guess I was wrong.

IS: Again, while not my first choice (or second), I can’t fault the jury’s selection of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie as the winner here.

See how everyone did with their predictions in Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): It’s Complicated.

Further reading:

Hearing Is Believing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie And The Science Of Sound

Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet: How To Fail At Marketing, AKA To Break The Rules You Must First Master Them

Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin

JM: I predicted this watch and didn’t even have a worry it wouldn’t win. It is one of the most iconic watches of all time, so in the first ever iteration of the category, it’s fitting that it took the prize. And since it was awarded by another icon of the industry, our very own editor-in-chief, it was a double whammy.

 ED: Joshua, you slimer! (laughs)

 SL: Another win for AP and one more of my personal picks. In truth, it would’ve been difficult to beat as it’s the embodiment of the modern icon.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin

ED: You are so right, Sean. There was hardly a way past this particular watch in this particular category. I was pleased as punch to award this one.

Aldis Hodge and Elizabeth Doerr presenting the Iconic prize at the the 2019 GPHG (photo courtesy Grégory Maillot/Point of Views)

MG: One of the biggest icons of the industry, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, rightfully won this prize. This does bring up the question for me: what’s next for this category? I find its name already quite presumptuous, and as a brand I would be very cautious about entering a watch in this category.

IS: I thought that the (TAG) Heuer Monaco Eighties would win this category, but to my eyes there were only two truly iconic wristwatches pre-selected and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin was one of them. Not my first choice, but an excellent choice nevertheless.

See how everyone did with their predictions in Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Creating Future Icons Or Rewarding Existing Ones?

Calendar and Astronomy: Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune

JM: I’m claiming this one among my correct predictions as I had it tied with the Sarpaneva and assumed due to the more traditional nature of the Hermès that it probably would win with most jurors.

GG: I was delighted to see this one win! The Hermès was one of my top two watches of the show at SIHH 2019 and I was really pleased for its win at GPHG: brilliant and unanticipated complication by Jean-François Mojon, attractive presentation, and reasonable price make for a wonderful combination.

SL: Although I did not personally select this watch, I’m not at all surprised that the jury picked it for this category. It’s an interesting interpretation of a very classic complication, and I hope it encourages Hermès to keep exploring it.

Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune with meteorite dial

MG: This is another well-deserved win to me. I absolutely love that this brand dances to its own beat and has a very clever collection of beautifully designed time-only watches and equally beautiful complicated watches such as this one. What I also like is that this is one of a very few watches with such an emphasis on the moon phase and such a novel way of integrating it.

IS: The two biggest potential upsets of the night for me would have been if the MB&F FlyingT didn’t win Ladies Complication and if the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune didn’t win best Calendar and Astronomy watch in 2019. Thankfully neither happened. The magic of this Hermès is that it’s incredibly complicated but looks so simple.

It should be noted that according to the GPHG rules, this category is only for Men’s watches. That’s something that might be changed for next year as I can see no reason why ladies watches should be ruled out here. “Calendar and Astronomy: men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.”

ED: So very true, Ian! I agree with you. And I couldn’t have been more pleased to see this novel and attractive timepiece take this category. And I do wonder how much this win might have influenced the CHF 210,000 result of the unique edition with different coloring at Only Watch 2019, which took place two days later?

GG: The GaryG Consolation Prize for 2019 goes to Stepan Sarpaneva and his delightful Lunations with its novel use of a bundle of optic fibers to create a realistic, and haunting, moon phase display. The jury was suitably impressed, but in competing with the Hermès in this category and facing the AP-VC-Urwerk logjam for the top awards, the Sarpaneva was as unlucky with its category placement as the Genus was lucky. Great accomplishment, though, Stepan, and I hope that the recognition as a pre-selection this year benefits your work.

ED: My sentiments exactly, Gary, well said.

See how everyone did with their predictions in Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It.

Further reading: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune: And Pegasus Flies On The Moon

Chronograph: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

IS: From the first time I saw a Bulgari Octo Finissimo a few years ago I’ve been smitten. I picked the Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic to win, and even though Bulgari only launched the Finissimo collection four years ago, I would somehow already consider it a strong contender next year in the Iconic watch category.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

MG: Form, function, and technical advancement rarely go so hand in hand as with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. It is light and ultra-thin, yet also robust and so convenient to use, making it the perfect everyday watch.

SL: Bulgari has definitely found its footing with the Octo Finissimo collection, and this chronograph has undeniable appeal as a modern and very wearable chronograph.

ED: It was a very convincing candidate and winner in this category, Sean, no doubt! I was pleased to see it recognized.

See the team’s forecasting in Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Chronometry: Ferdinand Berthoud Carburised Steel Regulator

GG: One category whose champion might require a bit of explanation is Chronometry: what the jury saw (and the audience did not) was a page for each pre-selected piece that described the time-keeping enhancements of the watch, and in some instances timing test sheets. The results achieved by the Berthoud were tremendously impressive with the Fleuritest timing readings never straying from a zone between plus-one and minus-one seconds per day. I’m quite sure that this was influential in the Jury’s choice, and the watch is beautifully made to boot.

ED: I am certain that that was the deciding factor, Gary. In a category called “Chronometry” I think that precision is probably the most important element – and that here it was weighted appropriately.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Carburized Steel Regulator

JM: Another unsurprising win, I had this watch high on my list and only picked a TAG Heuer over it due to the material innovation. If the carbon composite hairspring wasn’t in the category, I would have picked this as well.

ED: Very unfortunately, Joshua, TAG Heuer did not submit numerical data along with its entry. I would have been very interested to see that as the material innovation is interesting.

IS: Again, while not my first choice to win this category, I think that the Ferdinand Berthoud Carburised Steel Regulator is an excellent choice by the jury and it’s a watch I’d love to own.

SL: A nice validation for Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s brand; perhaps I personally would’ve given it higher consideration in my initial comments if it weren’t a regulator display.

MG: I am a confessed fan of Ferdinand Berthoud and think that they also deserved to win the chronometry watch prize. Its movement is outstanding, and I am still surprised that a dial that is so empty and so asymmetrical can be so incredibly beautiful!

Find out how we did with our predictions in Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is This Really About Precision?

Mechanical Exception: Genus GNS1.2

JM: I was surprised and not about this result. This watch is awesome for sure, but its win made me guess both the Urwerk and Vacheron Constantin would win special prizes . . . and I was right. So since both the AMC and the Twin Beat were honored in a different way, I am super excited that the baby on the block won in its first outing. It sure proved to be an incredible machine.

GG: One thing that the GPHG organization could do a better job of is making clear is that once a watch is promoted to one of the major awards (Aiguille d’Or, Innovation, Audacity, Revelation) it is disqualified from winning in its original category. The big beneficiary of that policy this year was the Genus: the Vacheron Constantin, Urwerk, and Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin Perpetual were all promoted to major prize status, leaving the field fairly clear for Genus in Mechanical Exception. The pure joy shown by the watch’s creators on the victory stand overcame any reservations I might have had about the wisdom of this choice, however!

Genus GNS1.2 on the wrist of its creator, Sébastien Billières

IS: I can’t help but feel that the Genus GNS1.2 was a lucky winner here, but it’s certainly not alone in that respect. And, as none of us, including jury members, know which watch won its category, we don’t definitively know if a winner got “lucky” by a competitor’s promotion or not.

By the sheer number of GPHG categories up for grabs, it’s fairly clear that the aim of the GPHG is to award as many prizes to as many watches as possible. Personally I’d be happy if a category winner wasn’t excluded if promoted — why shouldn’t a watch win the Men’s category and also be considered for the Innovation prize? But assuming the goal of the GPHG is to reward as many watches/brands as possible then the present system makes sense. And there’s no doubt that the Genus GNS1.2 is a worthy winner as it’s an incredible achievement for the first watch by a new brand.

ED: I was overjoyed for Genus founders Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry on this recognition for their very special timepiece.

SL: Although Genus should be proud of its achievement, and this prize will likely elevate the independent brand to a more prominent position as a new watchmaker, I have to get something off my chest: I think the GPHG really needs to find a solution to awarding a single watch multiple prizes. With three of the contenders in this category receiving other prizes, it automatically promoted Genus. As an example, the Academy Awards, which the GPHG likes to compare itself to, doesn’t eliminate a movie from Best Director if it wins Best Picture. Just some food for thought.

MG: The Genus GNS1.2 is such a novel mechanical delight, and for me a great watch to win the mechanical exception prize. Such a stunning creation and one that shows great promise as to what the brand will have hopefully in store for us in the near future.

See how everyone did with their predictions in Quill & Pad’s Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Further reading: Introducing Genus GNS1.2 By Sébastien Billières: A Serpentine Turning Point In Horological Indications (With Lume Video)

Diver’s Watch: Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s

IS: My pick for this category was the Longines HydroConquest as I thought it had the edge on the Seiko in terms of legibility, but I very nearly called them a tie. There’s no question that the Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s is a well-deserving winner here.

Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s

JM: I had the Seiko in my top three and said that it was probably the absolute best traditional dive watch in the bunch, so I was not surprised that it won. Seiko is always an underdog in the world of Swiss watches, so I am glad its consistency and quality was honored in the dive category.

SL: A very deserving winner in this category, which has some of the clearest technical guidelines (if you choose to follow the strict definition for a “diver’s watch”).

MG: With the diver’s watches, I am happy to see that common sense prevailed and that the most functional watch won. Not that I don’t like the other watches but being underwater is potentially very dangerous and you need functional tools to survive – like this Seiko.

ED: A deserving winner, no doubt, in a category that was difficult to judge on anything but specs. I am also quite pleased to continue to see Seiko getting deserved recognition for its achievements.

See how well the team made its predictions in Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Jewellery: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani

JM: I feel a bit vindicated with this pick because this is the first year I felt qualified to comment in any real way on a jewelry watch and the one I picked was the chosen one. Perhaps my studying paid off!

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani

 SL: One more prize for the Roman maison, which shows how multifaceted (no pun intended) its approach to watchmaking can be.

 ED: This timepiece was a monster of an entry with its outstanding setting, design, and jewels. I was in absolutely awe of it.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani

MG: Bulgari took home not one, but two prizes this year: the Octo Finissimo in the Chronograph category and the one for best jewelry watch here. This one proves that the Serpenti hasn’t lost any of its attraction over the years: with the Serpenti Misteriosi Romani the Italian brand also showcases that it is not only watches and design that it excels in, but also setting precious stones.

IS: While I’m not Bulgari’s target client for the Serpenti, I am unashamedly a fanboy. And while I didn’t pick it to win (my money was on the Jacob & Co. Mystery Tourbillon), I was applauding with everyone else when it did. It is a watch/bracelet that you have to feel and handle to appreciate, and I’ve no doubt that it was as much the tactility of the Serpenti Misteriosi Romani that won over the jury as its sheer quality.

See what our team predicted in Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Get Your Sunglasses Out!

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

GG: Voutilainen’s Starry Night Vine art watch deserves a separate mention as it was absolutely head and shoulders above even the other very strong entrants in its category. It was great fun for me to watch each juror’s jaw drop – literally – as he or she got a first look at this watch’s dial through the loupe.

Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

ED: Even though I knew what I was in for as I looked through the loupe, Gary, my jaw still dropped. This is seriously one of the most beautiful watches I have ever had the pleasure of looking at. Hands down.

IS: I didn’t want to vote for another Kari Voutilainen watch in the GPHG as I can’t help but feel that he has won enough GPHG awards for such a niche brand. But I did. What an incredible work of art the Starry Night Vine is. Simply mind-blowing. Sensational.

Kari Voutilainen Starry Night Vine on the wrist

SL: Kari brings this one home again. It’s such a subjective category, though, I wasn’t sure the jury would agree with my selection this year.

JM: This wasn’t much of surprise given the pedigree behind Voutilainen and the artistic crafts category. I feel like the Artistic Crafts category will someday be called the “Voutilainen award” he wins it so much.

See the team’s forecasts in Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Petite Aiguille: Kudoke 2 by Kudoke

ED: I was pleased as punch to see this award go to Stefan Kudoke, who has worked so hard for his entire career making hand-engraved timepieces in his idiosyncratic way. Earlier in 2019, the German watchmaker and self-taught engraver brought out his new Kudoke 1 (time only) and 2 (with day/night indicator) featuring a whole lot of hand-finishing on the dial and movement and powered by a Habring2 movement, though you would never know to look at it, so different it is with the beautiful hand-finishing.

Kudoke 2 on the wrist

The departure in concept paid off, and the Kudoke 2 has crystallized as an underground fan favorite (I will admit to being enamored of it too!). Though by no means was Kudoke a shoo-in in this category, simply because most of the jurors had never heard of him. I believe the workmanship and beauty of this watch won a surprising amount of hearts over.

And when you consider the price, belief can be restored that even today you can get some real value for your money!

And this could not have happened to nicer people. Big congratulations to Stefan and Ev!

Stefan and Ev Kudoke accepting the Petite Aiguille award for the Kudoke 2 from Carson Chan at the 2019 GPHG (photo courtesy Grégory Maillot/Point of Views)

JM: I was super happy to see Kudoke win the Petite Aiguille, and since I was the only one that picked him to win I feel like I may have picked the long horse to win.

MG: Kudoke shows that with a charming watch made with an eye for detail can win the Petite Aiguille prize.

IS: My pick for the Petite Aiguille was the IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire because I didn’t have confidence that the jury would feel about the Kudoke 2 as I did. I’m very pleased that the members obviously did and feel that the jury made a better choice than I, which will (or should) teach me not to try and second guess either myself or the jury.

My comments were, “While not the only watch by an independent brand here (impressively, indies make up half of the pre-selected watches this year), the Kudoke 2 is a true independent watchmaker enthusiast’s watch. The beautiful minimalist dial is punctuated by those elegant blue hands and intricately engraved rotating sky disk at 12 o’clock. The hand-finishing is superb, and the modified Habring2 movement reinforces the independent quality of the watch. I’m not sure that the jury will agree, but the Kudoke 2 is the watch I would buy for myself from this lineup.”

SL: I probably could’ve been swayed to choosing this one in my earlier comments. I like that it proves that hand-finishing does not have to have a direct correlation to a high price.

GG: In this category I favored the David Rutten Meteorite watch, but also appreciated the traditional-looking and well-finished indie-on-a-budget accomplishment of the Kudoke. Note to Trilobe: your watch is illegible for those of us with aging eyes.

See how we did guessing which way the jury would go in Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Picking The Best Sub-$10,000 Isn’t As Easy As It Seems.

Further reading: Kudoke 2 By Stefan Kudoke: Handcrafted Movement, Artistic Dial, Sensational Value

Challenge: Tudor Black Bay P01

JM: The jury enjoyed the bezel . . . I mean, okay, it was a cool feature but that doesn’t seem like enough to win the category given the lukewarm response for the watch among collectors and journalists and considering the others within the category. I’m always surprised and not surprised when a Tudor Black Bay wins. It’s like a Quentin Tarantino film: it may actually be a mediocre film in the grand scheme of things, but someone is always going to pull for it. The Tudor Black Bay is a great watch, but I am still lacking the true excitement I should for a watch that wins above such other awesome watches.

Tudor Black Bay P01

MG: I am still puzzled that the Tudor Black Bay P01 won the Challenge prize, although this is more a personal observation rather than a professional one. For the latter, I completely understand why it is such a great watch and so worthy of the win. On a personal level, I find the strap attachment so ugly that it is hard for me to pay attention to it.

GG: In this category, Ming’s promotion to Horological Revelation and Gorilla’s choice of an odd green-and-yellow color scheme for its entry reduced the competition for the winning Tudor. I wasn’t a fan of the Tudor myself and it’s easy to shake one’s head at the idea of “yet another Black Bay” taking home a trophy, but the jury is a diverse group and I’m sure the Tudor’s supporters had their own reasons for valuing the watch. Note to Gorilla: your relentless spamming of every GPHG post on Instagram with “Gorilla Power!” responses is not winning you any friends.

SL: Already a sought-after piece from Baselworld 2019, this will only accelerate the questions from acquaintances looking to acquire one.

IS: While I picked the Ming 17.06 Copper to win this category, it took the Horological Revelation prize and was thus taken out of Challenge category, which means we don’t know if it would have won or not. However, as the Black Bay P01 was my number two pick in the Challenge category I’ll take that anyway.

My comments were, “If every year at the GPHG our memories of past competitions were blanked, the Tudor Black Bay would win at least one category each year (along with Kari Voutilainen and the Zenith El Primero). It’s unbeatable value for money, and nearly every version looks good to me – even this one. The design is true to its inspiration, and it’s different enough to be taken seriously. The Tudor Black Bay P01 is my runner-up in the Challenge category.”

ED: This watch has certainly split the tribe, hasn’t it? Interesting to see the responses and hear the comments. One thing, though: Tudor continues to make watches people talk about!

See how everyone did with their predictions in Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève: No Clear Consensus And Quite A Few Surprises

Further reading: The Tudor Black Bay P01 And The Story Of The 1967 Prototype That Inspired It

Horological Revelation: Ming

IS: The Ming 17.06 Copper was pre-selected in the Challenge category where I predicted, “The Ming 17.06 Copper is my pick for winner of the GPHG Challenge category. It’s new. It’s fresh. Offers excellent value for money. The design and execution is superb, and that copper dial is sensational. Ming is becoming the MB&F of classic-style watches, and I mean that as a high compliment. The 17.06 Copper would have been a strong contender for me in the main Men’s category and it’s a shoo-in here.”

The fact that a sub-$4,000 watch won the Horological Revelation Prize is an even higher recognition by the jury of the excellence of the 17.06 Copper at an incredibly competitive price.

Ming 17.06 Copper on the wrist

JM: Ming has definitely been shaking things up in the more attainable portions of the market and after just two years was rewarded for constant attention to quality and details. Congrats to the whole team, excited to see where this can bring you!

Ming Thein and the Ming team accepting the Horological Revelation prize at the 2019 GPHG (photo courtesy Grégory Maillot/Point of Views)

GG: The Ming team was out in full force at the GPHG ceremony, and as a friend and admirer of what they’ve done in just three years I was clapping loudly as they made their way to the stage. Everything about the 17.06 is thoughtful; for instance, I particularly like small but meaningful touches like the inclusion of two sets of holes in the lugs to allow for the use of either curved or straight spring bars. Great looks, distinct styling, and great function, all for 1,250 Swiss francs!

ED: This could not have happened to a nicer set of guys and a more detailed set of thinkers when it comes to designing watches. Congratulations to the Ming team on this recognition; it is well deserved.

SL: A fantastic accolade for a brand that’s truly driven by passionate collectors. I’m looking forward to what Ming may have in store for us in the near future.

MG: Ming has been going like crazy ever since the brand was launched, and with each new watch has improved itself. This new brand is a textbook case on how to build a brand the right way, and with the right watches. A very deserved win for the team in the horological revelation category.

Further reading: Ming 19.01 By Ming Thein, Unparalleled Quality For Price.

Innovation Prize: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat

GG: It was good to see the Urwerk and Vacheron Constantin receive special recognition even though each fell short of the Aiguille d’Or: in my view both Urwerk’s atomic-clock-in-a-briefcase Sympathique and Vacheron Constantin’s convention-breaking 65-day manual-wind perpetual were gigantic highlights of the year.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat won the Innovation prize at the 2019 GPHG

JM: I was bummed when the Vacheron Constantin didn’t win the Mechanical Exception category, Gary, but I held fast to the idea that it probably was because it would win later. And of course it did. Glad to see the jury singled it out for a prize that could have gone to any watch, which means this piece stands above a large number of competitors. 

IS: I thought that the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar might take the prize for Mechanical Exception (it was my tied-draw for runner up), however the Innovation prize is the perfect choice for this incredibly innovative wristwatch.

SL: Although this was ultimately my pick for the Aiguille d’Or, I’m glad it got special recognition in the end. Although the theory behind it is relatively simple, the technical implementation was undoubtedly complex, and I hope to see it applied in other watches in future.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat

ED: I had also pegged it for the big prize, Sean, but am delighted that it surfaced here as well.

MG: The Innovation prize for Vacheron Constantin was very worthy, Elizabeth. It shows a different way of thinking about how to solve problems, and I also see its solution going beyond the initial piece in which it was launched. It also puts Vacheron Constantin more firmly in a newer space: as a traditional watch manufacture that has an eye for technical innovation as well.

Further reading: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat: User-Controlled Dual Frequency Offers Greater Precision, Less Wear, And Option Of Two-Month Power Reserve.

Audacity Prize: Urwerk AMC

JM: I mean an atomic-powered Sympathique wristwatch: of course it won the Audacity prize! It would take a major streak of confidence to undertake something on the magnitude of the AMC.

IS: The Urwerk AMC was my prediction for the Mechanical Exception prize, and I even described it as audacious, so I’ve no complaints that it was awarded the prize for Audacity. Yet another jury choice I applaud.

Urwerk AMC docked with atomic clock

SL: In hindsight I may have been unduly harsh in my initial comments on the AMC, although I did suggest that it may have been better suited for another category. The Audacity Prize seems to be perfectly suited and well deserved.

Urwerk AMC on the wrist

MG: Urwerk has been rewarded for thinking outside of the box . . . with a box. I have to say that having your own suitcase-sized atomic clock to set your Urwerk AMC with a modern-day Breguet Sympathique clock is very tempting. Especially since many watch connoisseurs appreciate a solution with a high(-tech) geek level.

Further reading: Urwerk AMC: Atomic (Clock) Mechanical Control Is A 21st Century Version Of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Sympathique Clocks But Much, Much Better (Geiger Counter Not Included)

Special Jury Prize: Luc Pettavino

ED: This could not have gone to a more deserving person this year, and I was overjoyed to see the voting jury agreed with me on that point. Once again, jury president Aurel Bacs gave an amazingly moving speech, and Luc Pettavino’s own acceptance speech (and likely presence on stage) triggered a heart-quickening standing ovation. Was there a dry eye in the house? I doubt it.

Luc Pettavino, winner of the Jury Special Prize at the 2019 GPHG (photo courtesy Miguel Bueno)

JM: The Only Watch endeavor is one of the best causes I have ever seen associated with the watch industry so I’m glad the man that began it got recognition from the entire industry for all his hard work and dedication.

IS: Four things stood out for me regarding the Special Jury prize going to Luc Pettavino:
1. How well deserving Pettavino is of this recognition.
2. How incredibly well-timed the award was coming just two days before the record-breaking Only Watch 2019 auction.
3. What an incredible speech by Aurel Bacs in presenting the prize.
4. What a moving speech by Luc Pettavino in accepting the prize.

SL: Luc’s tireless efforts over more than a decade are truly deserving of this special jury prize – and more. I’m in awe of what he’s achieved so far, especially when you look at this year’s auction, and I hope that we are not far from achieving a breakthrough in treating Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

MG: I was most excited about the special jury prize that was awarded to Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch. In a unique way he has been able to create synergy between the watch world and the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic disorder to which he lost his son.

Only Watch has evolved very quickly from a platform to raise funds to a highlight within the watch community every two years. It has become a platform upon which brands can show a different side of themselves, and some brands even use this event as a stage to present new complications, as F.P. Journe did.

The timing of Luc’s award was excellent as the stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime shattered the world record for most expensive wristwatch ever to be sold at auction just two days later – making it a significant contribution in the fight against this disease.

Young Student Award: Henri Cartier

JM: These awards are always great to see, showing that the industry appreciates what the young are doing.

IS: It’s always nice to see the recognition and encouragement that this award gives to young watchmakers, and there’s no debate over the winner: top of the class wins the prize and I tip my virtual hat to Henri Cartier.

Aiguille d’Or: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

JM: I was honestly surprised by this when I first saw it, but as I think about it the Royal Oak QP Ultra-Thin is an astounding watch with iconic looks (which was decided earlier in the night when its sibling won the Iconic category) and a terrific movement. I don’t know if I would agree that it is truly the best watch of 2019, but given that the Mechanical Exception category racked up four wins from a field of six incredible watches, it seems that the jury realized that the competition was jam-packed with quality and it needed to honor as many as possible. It definitely deserved attention and getting it as the Aiguille d’Or doesn’t really feel inaccurate. Though the real winner was Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, who was on stage thrice for the Iconic, Men’s Complication, and Aiguille d’Or. A good day and hopefully good year ahead for Audemars Piguet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

SL: It’s amazing that it’s actually taken 19 years of the GPHG for Audemars Piguet to win its first Aiguille d’Or! It’s certainly very well deserved, and I’m glad that it represents my personal definition for the category: a complete package that represents a grail watch, which the Royal Oak Perpetual Ultra-Thin certainly is with its impeccable lineage, finishing, and technical execution.

GG: As I previously stated, I go to into the jury room to listen as well as talk, and I was substantially influenced in several cases to consider pieces I hadn’t fully considered earlier.

I’d noted, but perhaps not fully appreciated, the technical accomplishment of the Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin perpetual calendar that took home the Aiguille d’Or. My going-in list for the big prize included the MB&F, both Voutilainen pieces, the Hermès, the Urwerk, and the Vacheron Constantin, but in the end I can understand fully why the coherent combination of super-thin automatic perpetual movement and Royal Oak packaging, including a flattened non-tapisserie dial to save vertical space, took the trophy.

IS: This was my only big surprise of the night. I consider the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to be a sensational watch, but it wasn’t in my top three picks for Aiguille d’Or. What a night for AP, though, in taking home three prizes.

See our predictions for this category in Quill & Pad’s Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

GG: Onward to 2020! We will be seeing some important changes to GPHG next year, including the creation of a diverse Academy of contributors who will have the ability to nominate watches not put forward by the brands and who also will perform the first screening to pick the pre-selected competitors. I’m hopeful that this will broaden and deepen the list of competing watches for next year and add further diversity and universality to the selection process, but we shall see!

ED: And I for one am very much looking forward to the new format! Keep an eye on this space as that will be announced during Dubai Watch Week taking place November 20-24, 2019.

How did we do with our predictions?

Joshua’s correct predictions

Ladies Complication: MB&F FlyingT

Calendar and Astronomy: Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune

Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin

Petite Aiguille: Kudoke 2

Jewelry: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

Ian’s correct predictions

Ladies Complication: MB&F FlyingT

Calendar and Astronomy: Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune

Chronograph: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

Sean’s correct predictions

Ladies: Chanel J12

Ladies Complication: MB&F FlyingT

Chronograph: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin

Diver’s Watch: Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

Martin’s correct predictions

Ladies Complication: MB&F FlyingT

Men’s: Voutilainen 28ti

Calendar and Astronomy: Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune

Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin

Diver’s Watch: Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s

Tim’s correct predictions

Ladies Complication: MB&F FlyingT

Calendar and Astronomy: Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune

Chronograph: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

Artistic Crafts: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine

You may also enjoy:

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision

Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): It’s Complicated

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!

Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Creating Future Icons Or Rewarding Existing Ones?

Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is This Really About Precision?

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Linked To Diving Or Wearing?

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)